Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:09 AM - Re: Wing Installation (Gary)
2. 09:31 AM - Re: Wing Installation (Larry PERRYMAN)
3. 09:58 AM - Re: Wing Installation (Gary)
4. 12:48 PM - Re: Wing Installation (Im7shannon@aol.com)
5. 01:53 PM - AeroSport/Performance (David Burden)
6. 07:29 PM - W-919 (Richard E. Tasker)
7. 07:44 PM - Re: Wing Installation (Norman)
8. 08:30 PM - Re: Wing Installation (Albert Gardner)
9. 08:36 PM - Re: W-919 (Tim)
10. 09:13 PM - Re: Wing Installation (Gary)
11. 10:38 PM - Sliding Canopy Lock (Albert Gardner)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Wing Installation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
So, how do you locate the matching holes in the fuselage belly skin/wing root fairing?
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Perryman
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 8:03 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Wing Installation
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@txucom.net>
To all you folks installing wings:
Please put in the plate nuts in the holes that you skipped on the inboard
edge of the wing.
Remember every third rivet that you left out for no apparent reason?
It is very hard to put them in once the wings are installed.
Regards
Larry Perryman
N194DL
---
Version: 6.0.431 / Virus Database: 242 - Release Date: 12/19/02
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Wing Installation |
01/13/2003 06:30:50 PM,
Serialize complete at 01/13/2003 06:30:50 PM
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
Gary,
You can drill down from the top through the plate nuts with a #40 x 12
drill bit or leave them out and drill a hole for a sheet metal screw. Once
again a two person job since you need someone to hold the bottom skin up
against the wing.
I did not put any platenuts there because I did not see the problem until
I had installed the wing. I am stuck with the sheet metal screw route.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Gary <rv9er@3rivers.net>
01/13/2003 10:53 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Installation
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
So, how do you locate the matching holes in the fuselage belly skin/wing
root fairing?
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Perryman
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 8:03 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Wing Installation
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry Perryman"
<larry-perryman@txucom.net>
To all you folks installing wings:
Please put in the plate nuts in the holes that you skipped on the
inboard
edge of the wing.
Remember every third rivet that you left out for no apparent reason?
It is very hard to put them in once the wings are installed.
Regards
Larry Perryman
N194DL
---
Version: 6.0.431 / Virus Database: 242 - Release Date: 12/19/02
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Wing Installation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Okay, Larry. I wonder if U-type tinnerman nuts would work there. But then you
couldn't use flat head screws.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry PERRYMAN
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Installation
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
Gary,
You can drill down from the top through the plate nuts with a #40 x 12
drill bit or leave them out and drill a hole for a sheet metal screw. Once
again a two person job since you need someone to hold the bottom skin up
against the wing.
I did not put any platenuts there because I did not see the problem until
I had installed the wing. I am stuck with the sheet metal screw route.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
---
Version: 6.0.431 / Virus Database: 242 - Release Date: 12/19/02
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Wing Installation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Im7shannon@aol.com
Guys,
I had my plane inspected by Scott McDaniels when I sold it, he told me that
those belly skin to wing skin screws were important because they were
structural, and highly recommended using countersunk screws and platenuts. He
said when they did the wing loading test on the mock up in the shop they
could see these points were taking some deflection.
Im going to be down there for the air show Albert, maybe you will be flying
by then?
Kevin Shannon
> Okay, Larry. I wonder if U-type tinnerman nuts would work there. But then
> you couldn't use flat head screws.
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry PERRYMAN
> To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:30 AM
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Installation
>
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <
> larry.perryman@atofina.com>
>
> Gary,
>
> You can drill down from the top through the plate nuts with a #40 x 12
> drill bit or leave them out and drill a hole for a sheet metal screw.
> Once
> again a two person job since you need someone to hold the bottom skin up
> against the wing.
>
> I did not put any platenuts there because I did not see the problem until
> I had installed the wing. I am stuck with the sheet metal screw route.
>
> Regards,
> Larry Perryman
>
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | AeroSport/Performance |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "David Burden" <db1yg@earthlink.net>
Hey Folks,
Anyone on the list have any real world experience with the AeroSport 0-320 with
the high compression pistons in a 9 or 9A? I understand this engine produces
170hp and I was curious as to the cruise and climb performance compared with
a stock 320.
Cheers,
db1yg
Message 6
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I am working on my wings and am ready to put the W-919 in place on the
first wing. The drawings say nothing about the length. However, I
looked on the parts list at the front of the manual to find the length
(28.8125") and that seems to work as far as length.
Now I have a question regarding width/placement. The instructions say
to draw a line 5/16" from one edge and then insert the strip between the
skin and the nose rib until the line is visible through the skin holes.
It further states that this allows 5/8" of protrusion to support the
tank skin. The numbers don't add up... The strip is 1.5" wide. The
hole centers are 5/16" from the edge of the skin. This uses up 5/8" of
the strip width (5/16" on either side of the holes). If we subtract
this from 1.5" we get 7/8" of protrusion, not 5/8" as stated in the manual.
What is correct? The line position or the stated amount of protrusion?
Or is there a gap between the fuel tank nose rib and the leading edge
nose rib and the 5/8" stated in the manual is actually the overlap with
the fuel tank skin and the extra 1/4" is the gap between the two?
Thanks,
Dick Tasker. 90573
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Wing Installation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
I am facing this when I get to the airport. I plan on slipping in the wings
with just 4-5 bolts per side. I'll have the wing marked for the perfect
position of the holes with a parallel line one inch out on the wing bottom.
That way I will be able to locate the holes perfectly. Next I'll pull the
bolts and slide the wings out 6-8 inches and install the platenuts and
dimple the belly skins. Any one see a problem with this plan?
> You can drill down from the top through the plate nuts with a #40 x 12
> drill bit or leave them out and drill a hole for a sheet metal screw. Once
> again a two person job since you need someone to hold the bottom skin up
> against the wing.
>
> I did not put any platenuts there because I did not see the problem until
> I had installed the wing. I am stuck with the sheet metal screw route.
Do you mean these sheet metal screws will have heads sticking out in the
wind? How will they lock in? Wouldn't #6 machine screws with nylock nuts be
better?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Wing Installation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner@worldnet.att.net>
About the only problem Norman is that the wing spar only sticks in about 6
or 8 inches. The wing is very light, stick it in there with 3 or 4 regular
bolts with the threads ground down. They are about .010" undersize so they
will be very easy to insert and will locate it accurately enough. Set the
sweep and incidence and locate the rear spar hole. Match drill the lower
skin holes, pull the wing out onto sawhorses and finish up the holes and
platenuts and you're ready for final installation.
BTW, if I were to do this again, I would install the rod end bearings for
the aileron push/pull tubes on the control stick. Then when your hooking
them up later you don't have to you can just turn the threaded tube end onto
the rod end bearing. The other end will be loose anyway since you will be
setting aileron position at that time.
Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV
Message 9
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--> RV9-List message posted by: Tim <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Richard E. Tasker wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
>
> I am working on my wings and am ready to put the W-919 in place on the
...
> the strip width (5/16" on either side of the holes). If we subtract
> this from 1.5" we get 7/8" of protrusion, not 5/8" as stated in the manual.
>
> What is correct? The line position or the stated amount of protrusion?
My manual and my preview plans both say 7/8" will be exposed
to support the tank skin, and a quick measurement of my wing
in fact shows 7/8" protruding.
Try measuring the outboard edge of the tank skin to make sure
7/8" of protruding W-919 will fit without interfering with the
outboard tank nose rib.
- Tim.
90338
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Wing Installation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Albert........great idea on the aileron push tubes. Those little washers and all
are going to be tough enough to get in without wrestling the aileron tube.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Do Not Archive
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Albert Gardner
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing Installation
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner@worldnet.att.net>
About the only problem Norman is that the wing spar only sticks in about 6
or 8 inches. The wing is very light, stick it in there with 3 or 4 regular
bolts with the threads ground down. They are about .010" undersize so they
will be very easy to insert and will locate it accurately enough. Set the
sweep and incidence and locate the rear spar hole. Match drill the lower
skin holes, pull the wing out onto sawhorses and finish up the holes and
platenuts and you're ready for final installation.
BTW, if I were to do this again, I would install the rod end bearings for
the aileron push/pull tubes on the control stick. Then when your hooking
them up later you don't have to you can just turn the threaded tube end onto
the rod end bearing. The other end will be loose anyway since you will be
setting aileron position at that time.
Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV
---
Version: 6.0.431 / Virus Database: 242 - Release Date: 12/19/02
Message 11
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Subject: | Sliding Canopy Lock |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner@worldnet.att.net>
I discovered a rather simple canopy lock setup that looks like it might do
the job. If you bought the keyed mag/starter switch from Vans, it came with
2 tumbler locks with a flat arm that swung 90 degrees to lock/unlock. All 3
use the same key which is really nice. I installed the tumbler locks in the
Canopy Skirt so that it protruded into one of the large holes in C-791
(Canopy Skirt Brace). You have to enlarge the hole in the Skirt Brace and be
careful that there is room to install the hex nut on the lock tumbler
without it interfering with the Canopy Frame. I cut a slot in the Canopy
Roller Track for the flat arm to swing down into and lock the canopy in the
closed position. The lock tumbler just barely clears the Skirt Brace and
looks pretty clean without sticking out into the cabin very far. Much less
elaborate than pushing a pin up into the Roller Track from below. I put this
in after the canopy was finished but I wish the idea had occurred when I
was building it as it would have been easier.
Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV
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