Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:01 AM - Re: Sliding Canopy Lock (Albert Gardner)
     2. 10:45 AM - Collins Radio Wiring (Chuck Weyant)
     3. 10:16 PM - Wing skin attachment screws (Andy Karmy)
 
 
 
Message 1
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| Subject:  | Re:  Sliding Canopy Lock | 
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner@worldnet.att.net>
      
      Oops, with my sliding canopy lock idea, I feel like Al Gore when he told the
      world he had just invented the Internet. In my defense, it's fairly hot here
      in Yuma even in Winter and I had been out in the sun all day. It's still a
      good idea even it's not an original one. Maybe checking the archives would
      have been a better idea.
      Albert Gardner
      (RV-9A builder with a new address)
      Yuma Territorial Penitentiary, AZ
      Do not archive.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 2
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| Subject:  | Collins Radio Wiring | 
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck@chuckdirect.com>
      
      Need wiring diagram and/or instructions for wiring in my Collins 251 com,
      351 nav and loc/glideslope indicator. I have no paperwork.  Help!
      Thanks,
      Chuck Weyant
      do not archive
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 3
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| Subject:  | Wing skin attachment screws | 
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
      
      Ok guys, here's the word from Scott McDaniels on those skin overlap screws on the
      center section... I think this makes it fairly clear as to what we need to
      do in this area.
      
      - Andy
      
      On Mon, 13 Jan 2003 21:24:13 -0000 "andy_karmy <andy@karmy.com>" 
      <andy@karmy.com> writes: 
      > Hi Scott, 
      > 
      > This thread has been cooking on the matronics rv9 list and I wasn't 
      > sure if you watched that one or not... Any comments would be 
      > helpfull. 
      > 
      > - Andy Karmy 
      >   RV9A Seattle WA 
      > 
      
      Hi Andy 
      No I don't monitor that list at all (I do cruise the RV-list archives 
      occasionally). 
      
      When the static testing was done on the wings they were attached to a 
      center section portion of a fuselage with all of the specified AN509 
      flush screws and K1100 plate nuts installed.  When the wings were 
      unloaded after going to ultimate load (150% of limit load) it was 
      apparent that the over lap skin from the fuselage had been taking some 
      load because most all of the dimpled screw holes had been 
      stretched/elongated (remember, at ultimate load, permanent damage is 
      acceptable; catastrophic failure of the wing is not). 
      
      Because of this evidence, any deviation from the plans in this area could 
      be reducing the ultimate load the wings are capable of.  How much?  Who 
      knows.  We don't test to see what strength variations may occur  from 
      modifications builders may choose to make. 
      
      I do know that a screw in a dimple in another dimple into a riveted plate 
      nut is a stronger joint than a truss head screw into a couple of un 
      countersunk holes with a riveted plate nut.  A joint with a truss head 
      screw into a tinnerman nut or just a sheet metal screw is weaker still. 
      
      I personally would never deviate from the plans at this location. 
      Considering the amount of work required to build the airplane, it takes a 
      very small amount of time (in comparison) to do it right. 
      
      I realize it is a pain, but the assembly process of the current RV kits 
      was never intended for the wings to be installed on to the fuselage just 
      once during the construction process.  If a builder plans ahead he 
      wouldn't have to totally remove the wings to do this work. 
      
      Just pre install them with only one top and one bottom bolt.  Do all of 
      the required root fairing work.  Then slip the wing out far enough to put 
      one bolt through the inboard most hole at the bottom  of the spar, 
      through the outboard most hole in the bottom of the center section.  You 
      can then rest the outboard end of the wing on a saw horse ( you can even 
      use an under sized bolt that will easily slip through the holes without 
      getting them perfectly aligned).  This will give you a gap of about 5" 
      between the wing and the fuse bottom skin, which is enough to prep for 
      and install the plate nuts.  After you are finished it is an easy task to 
      slip the wing back into its final position.  This can be done one wing at 
      a time with very little trouble. 
      
      Hope this is of some help. 
      Feel free to post it to the RV-9 list if you like. 
      
      Scott McDaniels 
      
      
      
      
      
      
 
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