Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:14 AM - Fitting the wings - Grease the face! (Steve Sampson)
2. 01:14 AM - Re: RV-9A Air Speeds (Steve Sampson)
3. 04:54 AM - Re: RV-9A Air Speeds (Paulbaird@aol.com)
4. 12:49 PM - Drilling (Steve Sampson)
5. 12:50 PM - Re: RV-9A Air Speeds (Steve Sampson)
6. 01:44 PM - Proseal. (Rob W M Shipley)
7. 02:30 PM - Secure bolts and screws (Miller Robert)
8. 03:47 PM - Re: Drilling (Cy Galley)
9. 04:43 PM - Re: Drilling (Richard E. Tasker)
10. 05:21 PM - Re: Drilling (Cy Galley)
11. 08:22 PM - Re: Drilling (Larry Perryman)
12. 10:54 PM - Re: Drilling (Gary)
Message 1
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Subject: | Fitting the wings - Grease the face! |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Put the wings on for the first time yesterday. I had done a lot of work to
be sure the mild steel bolts were going to work, but where we were caught
out and spent all the time, was the need to grease the face of the spar
where it touches its opposite number in the fuse. Until we got that done
sliding them in was very hard.
Bolts went in easy but I don't relish getting them out! Does everyone do it
nuts forward?
Regards, Steve
#90360 N Yorks., UK
PS It nearly takes up a third of the space in my workshop!
Message 2
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Subject: | RV-9A Air Speeds |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Paul / Sam / Larry / others - you are all flying and Paul you mentioned
needing to carry some speed to get the nose up. This makes me wonder if
there is a tendancy for the aircraft to have a forward CG. I have been
working to keep 'extras' like the strobe power around the spar rather than
further aft.
I would welcome knowledge of CG position and handling characteristics. I had
thought there was a danger of banging the rear fuse on the ground rather
than not getting the nose up!
Regards, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paulbaird@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9A Air Speeds
--> RV9-List message posted by: Paulbaird@aol.com
Dick,
I have an 9A that I have been flying since July. My airspeed
indicator is in mph so if yours is in knots you will have to divide my
numbers by 1.15.
My stall speed when solo is from 42 to 44 mph depending on fuel load.
Using the traditional 1.3 times Vs would yield an approach speed of about 56
mph. I found that I needed a little more speed for elevator authority in
the
flare. I use 65mph on final and it seems to be a very comfortable speed.
I didn't have any surprises on the test flights. It flew just as I
expected it to, only better. I did some "crow hops" before the first
flight.
I got it about 2 ft off the ground and found I need a tad of aileron trim.
After that it was balanced and as stable as could be. I did about a half a
dozen crow hops and then I took off. I didn't use the flaps on the first
couple of flights. I added some speed of course on final.
Good Luck!
Paul Baird
90355
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: RV-9A Air Speeds |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Paulbaird@aol.com
Steve,
My weight and balance came out almost identical to Van's prototype.
It is impossible for me (at 165 lbs) to load it out of c.g. Unless of
course I exceeded the baggage compartment limit of 100 lbs or if I loaded the
airplane over gross weight. The only way for my airplane to be out of
forward c.g. is to have a 100 lb pilot almost out of fuel.
The reason I go above 1.3 vs on final isn't because the nose won't
come up in the flare. It just feels very mushy. It is much more comfortable
to approach at 60-65 mph. I always turn off at the first taxiway at my local
airport which is 800 ft from the approach end of the runway.
I hope that clarifies what I was saying. Good Luck!
Paul
90355
Message 4
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Daft question which I ought to know the answer to!
On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have
occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have
to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make sure
this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit
was slightly out of true. What is going on please?
Thanks guys! Steve.
Message 5
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Subject: | RV-9A Air Speeds |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Paul thanks for that. I am used to 'mushy' I have a 950' one way strip. Are
you CS or FP? Much braking?
On VANS runway Gus needed about 300' but it's a good surface for braking.
Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paulbaird@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9A Air Speeds
--> RV9-List message posted by: Paulbaird@aol.com
Steve,
My weight and balance came out almost identical to Van's prototype.
It is impossible for me (at 165 lbs) to load it out of c.g. Unless of
course I exceeded the baggage compartment limit of 100 lbs or if I loaded
the
airplane over gross weight. The only way for my airplane to be out of
forward c.g. is to have a 100 lb pilot almost out of fuel.
The reason I go above 1.3 vs on final isn't because the nose won't
come up in the flare. It just feels very mushy. It is much more
comfortable
to approach at 60-65 mph. I always turn off at the first taxiway at my
local
airport which is 800 ft from the approach end of the runway.
I hope that clarifies what I was saying. Good Luck!
Paul
90355
Message 6
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
For those anticipating the joys which only Proseal can offer the following points
may provide some relief of anxiety.
1) The shelf life is more than adequate. I live in the San Diego area and we
get nice warm weather. My can of Proseal sat in the garage for nearly a year
after it had been opened before I got round to the second tank. It was fine.
2) Clecoing first. I have heard that Boeing uses this approach with tanks and
that the Clecos can be removed after the initial hardening. It then rubs off
the clecos fairly easily. I HAVE NOT USED THIS METHOD NOR DO I SEE ANY NEED
FOR IT.
3) Don't sweat the measuring process too much. Shortly before I began my tanks
I saw an email from a builder who had inadvertantly used half the usual hardener.
The advice from the list was not to worry it would set anyway. Just
take a little longer. I was a little sceptical of this so I made my own test.
For a range of double the ratio to half the ratio the only thing that changes
is the cure time. So don't worry. I eyeballed the amounts for all my mixing
and ended up running out of both at the same time!
4) Unless you are heavy handed you will get both tanks and all the other minor
bits out of the one can.
5) Use popsicle sticks to butter the Proseal onto the flanges and trowel the
exudate. Clean up with MEK.
Good luck. It's not as bad as people say. Really!
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
Message 7
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Subject: | Secure bolts and screws |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
New, (to me anyway), product from Nylok (www.nylok.com) - mentioned in 2/03 issue
of Sport Aviation, pg. 115.
Called Nylok True Blue.
This would seem to offer benefits in securing bolts and screws against loosening
over time due to vibration.
Looks like a good thing.
Robert Miller
Message 8
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
The very best way is to drill undersize and ream to final size.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Subject: RV9-List: Drilling
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
<SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
> Daft question which I ought to know the answer to!
>
> On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have
> occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have
> to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make
sure
> this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit
> was slightly out of true. What is going on please?
>
> Thanks guys! Steve.
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
When drilling with a large bit there is a significant tendency for the
bit to make triangular holes if either the bit is not in a stationary
drill press or the part is not clamped rigidly - as you have discovered.
As Cy says, the best way is to drill undersize and ream to size.
However, if you do not have a complete set of reamers, (which I don't),
I have found that a unibit drills very clean perfectly round holes (as
long as the part you are drilling is no thicker than the unibit steps -
which seems to be the case with everything I have drilled so far). Get
the one that goes from 1/4" to 3/4" in 1/16" steps. This will do just
about anything you need to drill on an RV. As a side benefit if you
drill a tiny bit deeper so the next size step just barely starts to
drill you get a pre-chamfered hole for free!
It works best in a drill press, but also works just fine in a handheld
drill.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Working on the tanks
Steve Sampson wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
>Daft question which I ought to know the answer to!
>
>On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have
>occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have
>to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make sure
>this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit
>was slightly out of true. What is going on please?
>
>Thanks guys! Steve.
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
You can buy "chucking reamers" for less about $4 each from Enco
1-800-873-3626 http://www.use-enco.com/
Their foreign made reamers work very well for limited use. You can get O/S
and U/S so check your bolts with a micrometer before ordering.
You can also get a set of 4 adjustable for less than $20
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Drilling
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
<retasker@optonline.net>
>
> When drilling with a large bit there is a significant tendency for the
> bit to make triangular holes if either the bit is not in a stationary
> drill press or the part is not clamped rigidly - as you have discovered.
> As Cy says, the best way is to drill undersize and ream to size.
>
> However, if you do not have a complete set of reamers, (which I don't),
> I have found that a unibit drills very clean perfectly round holes (as
> long as the part you are drilling is no thicker than the unibit steps -
> which seems to be the case with everything I have drilled so far). Get
> the one that goes from 1/4" to 3/4" in 1/16" steps. This will do just
> about anything you need to drill on an RV. As a side benefit if you
> drill a tiny bit deeper so the next size step just barely starts to
> drill you get a pre-chamfered hole for free!
>
> It works best in a drill press, but also works just fine in a handheld
> drill.
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
> Working on the tanks
>
> Steve Sampson wrote:
>
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
<SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
> >
> >Daft question which I ought to know the answer to!
> >
> >On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have
> >occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I
have
> >to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make
sure
> >this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit
> >was slightly out of true. What is going on please?
> >
> >Thanks guys! Steve.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@txucom.net>
Steve,
Drill a pilot hole first and then follow up with the larger bit. Good SHARP
bits work best. If in doubt, go buy a new one of that size. For me, slow
drill speeds worked best.
On the spar bolts, only those that come behind the gear leg mount (if you
are tri gear) come from the back. The rest go front to back. If you are tail
wheel, then all go front to back..
CG - don't worry about it. If you are like most I have heard about, you
will find it very hard to get it out of CG.
Pattern speeds - about 85-90 knots on downwind,
About 78 knots on base, about 60 knots on final. You will find it flies
very similar (at least in my view) to a Cherokee.
I have been holding it down on takeoff until I saw about 65 knots. It will
fly a long time before that.
I had to take off the other day with my Quinti prop at full coarse. I was
only able to make about 3800 rpm instead of my normal 5000 rpm but the plane
flew like my old Beechcraft Sundowner 180.
Just make sure when the time comes to take the bird into the air that YOU
are ready to fly.
Good luck.
Regards
Larry Perryman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Subject: RV9-List: Drilling
| --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
<SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
|
| Daft question which I ought to know the answer to!
|
| On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have
| occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have
| to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make
sure
| this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit
| was slightly out of true. What is going on please?
|
| Thanks guys! Steve.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Message 12
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Steve.....if you want the holes to be round and centered where they started, start
small and use progressivelly larger drills in small increments.
Gary
On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have
occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have
to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make sure
this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit
was slightly out of true. What is going on please?
Thanks guys! Steve.
---
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