RV9-List Digest Archive

Sat 02/01/03


Total Messages Posted: 12



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:14 AM - Fitting the wings - Grease the face! (Steve Sampson)
     2. 01:14 AM - Re: RV-9A Air Speeds (Steve Sampson)
     3. 04:54 AM - Re: RV-9A Air Speeds (Paulbaird@aol.com)
     4. 12:49 PM - Drilling (Steve Sampson)
     5. 12:50 PM - Re: RV-9A Air Speeds (Steve Sampson)
     6. 01:44 PM - Proseal. (Rob W M Shipley)
     7. 02:30 PM - Secure bolts and screws (Miller Robert)
     8. 03:47 PM - Re: Drilling (Cy Galley)
     9. 04:43 PM - Re: Drilling (Richard E. Tasker)
    10. 05:21 PM - Re: Drilling (Cy Galley)
    11. 08:22 PM - Re: Drilling (Larry Perryman)
    12. 10:54 PM - Re: Drilling (Gary)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:14:16 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
    Subject: Fitting the wings - Grease the face!
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Put the wings on for the first time yesterday. I had done a lot of work to be sure the mild steel bolts were going to work, but where we were caught out and spent all the time, was the need to grease the face of the spar where it touches its opposite number in the fuse. Until we got that done sliding them in was very hard. Bolts went in easy but I don't relish getting them out! Does everyone do it nuts forward? Regards, Steve #90360 N Yorks., UK PS It nearly takes up a third of the space in my workshop!


    Message 2


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    Time: 01:14:16 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
    Subject: RV-9A Air Speeds
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Paul / Sam / Larry / others - you are all flying and Paul you mentioned needing to carry some speed to get the nose up. This makes me wonder if there is a tendancy for the aircraft to have a forward CG. I have been working to keep 'extras' like the strobe power around the spar rather than further aft. I would welcome knowledge of CG position and handling characteristics. I had thought there was a danger of banging the rear fuse on the ground rather than not getting the nose up! Regards, Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paulbaird@aol.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9A Air Speeds --> RV9-List message posted by: Paulbaird@aol.com Dick, I have an 9A that I have been flying since July. My airspeed indicator is in mph so if yours is in knots you will have to divide my numbers by 1.15. My stall speed when solo is from 42 to 44 mph depending on fuel load. Using the traditional 1.3 times Vs would yield an approach speed of about 56 mph. I found that I needed a little more speed for elevator authority in the flare. I use 65mph on final and it seems to be a very comfortable speed. I didn't have any surprises on the test flights. It flew just as I expected it to, only better. I did some "crow hops" before the first flight. I got it about 2 ft off the ground and found I need a tad of aileron trim. After that it was balanced and as stable as could be. I did about a half a dozen crow hops and then I took off. I didn't use the flaps on the first couple of flights. I added some speed of course on final. Good Luck! Paul Baird 90355


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:54:53 AM PST US
    From: Paulbaird@aol.com
    Subject: Re: RV-9A Air Speeds
    --> RV9-List message posted by: Paulbaird@aol.com Steve, My weight and balance came out almost identical to Van's prototype. It is impossible for me (at 165 lbs) to load it out of c.g. Unless of course I exceeded the baggage compartment limit of 100 lbs or if I loaded the airplane over gross weight. The only way for my airplane to be out of forward c.g. is to have a 100 lb pilot almost out of fuel. The reason I go above 1.3 vs on final isn't because the nose won't come up in the flare. It just feels very mushy. It is much more comfortable to approach at 60-65 mph. I always turn off at the first taxiway at my local airport which is 800 ft from the approach end of the runway. I hope that clarifies what I was saying. Good Luck! Paul 90355


    Message 4


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    Time: 12:49:58 PM PST US
    From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
    Subject: Drilling
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Daft question which I ought to know the answer to! On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make sure this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit was slightly out of true. What is going on please? Thanks guys! Steve.


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:50:03 PM PST US
    From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
    Subject: RV-9A Air Speeds
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Paul thanks for that. I am used to 'mushy' I have a 950' one way strip. Are you CS or FP? Much braking? On VANS runway Gus needed about 300' but it's a good surface for braking. Steve. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paulbaird@aol.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: RV-9A Air Speeds --> RV9-List message posted by: Paulbaird@aol.com Steve, My weight and balance came out almost identical to Van's prototype. It is impossible for me (at 165 lbs) to load it out of c.g. Unless of course I exceeded the baggage compartment limit of 100 lbs or if I loaded the airplane over gross weight. The only way for my airplane to be out of forward c.g. is to have a 100 lb pilot almost out of fuel. The reason I go above 1.3 vs on final isn't because the nose won't come up in the flare. It just feels very mushy. It is much more comfortable to approach at 60-65 mph. I always turn off at the first taxiway at my local airport which is 800 ft from the approach end of the runway. I hope that clarifies what I was saying. Good Luck! Paul 90355


    Message 6


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    Time: 01:44:02 PM PST US
    From: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
    Subject: Proseal.
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com> For those anticipating the joys which only Proseal can offer the following points may provide some relief of anxiety. 1) The shelf life is more than adequate. I live in the San Diego area and we get nice warm weather. My can of Proseal sat in the garage for nearly a year after it had been opened before I got round to the second tank. It was fine. 2) Clecoing first. I have heard that Boeing uses this approach with tanks and that the Clecos can be removed after the initial hardening. It then rubs off the clecos fairly easily. I HAVE NOT USED THIS METHOD NOR DO I SEE ANY NEED FOR IT. 3) Don't sweat the measuring process too much. Shortly before I began my tanks I saw an email from a builder who had inadvertantly used half the usual hardener. The advice from the list was not to worry it would set anyway. Just take a little longer. I was a little sceptical of this so I made my own test. For a range of double the ratio to half the ratio the only thing that changes is the cure time. So don't worry. I eyeballed the amounts for all my mixing and ended up running out of both at the same time! 4) Unless you are heavy handed you will get both tanks and all the other minor bits out of the one can. 5) Use popsicle sticks to butter the Proseal onto the flanges and trowel the exudate. Clean up with MEK. Good luck. It's not as bad as people say. Really! Rob Rob W M Shipley RV9A N919RV Fuselage.


    Message 7


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    Time: 02:30:46 PM PST US
    From: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Secure bolts and screws
    --> RV9-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net> New, (to me anyway), product from Nylok (www.nylok.com) - mentioned in 2/03 issue of Sport Aviation, pg. 115. Called Nylok True Blue. This would seem to offer benefits in securing bolts and screws against loosening over time due to vibration. Looks like a good thing. Robert Miller


    Message 8


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    Time: 03:47:29 PM PST US
    From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
    Subject: Re: Drilling
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org> The very best way is to drill undersize and ream to final size. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Subject: RV9-List: Drilling > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> > > Daft question which I ought to know the answer to! > > On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have > occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have > to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make sure > this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit > was slightly out of true. What is going on please? > > Thanks guys! Steve. > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 04:43:48 PM PST US
    From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
    Subject: Re: Drilling
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net> When drilling with a large bit there is a significant tendency for the bit to make triangular holes if either the bit is not in a stationary drill press or the part is not clamped rigidly - as you have discovered. As Cy says, the best way is to drill undersize and ream to size. However, if you do not have a complete set of reamers, (which I don't), I have found that a unibit drills very clean perfectly round holes (as long as the part you are drilling is no thicker than the unibit steps - which seems to be the case with everything I have drilled so far). Get the one that goes from 1/4" to 3/4" in 1/16" steps. This will do just about anything you need to drill on an RV. As a side benefit if you drill a tiny bit deeper so the next size step just barely starts to drill you get a pre-chamfered hole for free! It works best in a drill press, but also works just fine in a handheld drill. Dick Tasker, 90573 Working on the tanks Steve Sampson wrote: >--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> > >Daft question which I ought to know the answer to! > >On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have >occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have >to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make sure >this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit >was slightly out of true. What is going on please? > >Thanks guys! Steve. > > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 05:21:40 PM PST US
    From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
    Subject: Re: Drilling
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org> You can buy "chucking reamers" for less about $4 each from Enco 1-800-873-3626 http://www.use-enco.com/ Their foreign made reamers work very well for limited use. You can get O/S and U/S so check your bolts with a micrometer before ordering. You can also get a set of 4 adjustable for less than $20 Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Drilling > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net> > > When drilling with a large bit there is a significant tendency for the > bit to make triangular holes if either the bit is not in a stationary > drill press or the part is not clamped rigidly - as you have discovered. > As Cy says, the best way is to drill undersize and ream to size. > > However, if you do not have a complete set of reamers, (which I don't), > I have found that a unibit drills very clean perfectly round holes (as > long as the part you are drilling is no thicker than the unibit steps - > which seems to be the case with everything I have drilled so far). Get > the one that goes from 1/4" to 3/4" in 1/16" steps. This will do just > about anything you need to drill on an RV. As a side benefit if you > drill a tiny bit deeper so the next size step just barely starts to > drill you get a pre-chamfered hole for free! > > It works best in a drill press, but also works just fine in a handheld > drill. > > Dick Tasker, 90573 > Working on the tanks > > Steve Sampson wrote: > > >--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> > > > >Daft question which I ought to know the answer to! > > > >On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have > >occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have > >to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make sure > >this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit > >was slightly out of true. What is going on please? > > > >Thanks guys! Steve. > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 08:22:47 PM PST US
    From: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@txucom.net>
    Subject: Re: Drilling
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@txucom.net> Steve, Drill a pilot hole first and then follow up with the larger bit. Good SHARP bits work best. If in doubt, go buy a new one of that size. For me, slow drill speeds worked best. On the spar bolts, only those that come behind the gear leg mount (if you are tri gear) come from the back. The rest go front to back. If you are tail wheel, then all go front to back.. CG - don't worry about it. If you are like most I have heard about, you will find it very hard to get it out of CG. Pattern speeds - about 85-90 knots on downwind, About 78 knots on base, about 60 knots on final. You will find it flies very similar (at least in my view) to a Cherokee. I have been holding it down on takeoff until I saw about 65 knots. It will fly a long time before that. I had to take off the other day with my Quinti prop at full coarse. I was only able to make about 3800 rpm instead of my normal 5000 rpm but the plane flew like my old Beechcraft Sundowner 180. Just make sure when the time comes to take the bird into the air that YOU are ready to fly. Good luck. Regards Larry Perryman ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Subject: RV9-List: Drilling | --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> | | Daft question which I ought to know the answer to! | | On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have | occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have | to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make sure | this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit | was slightly out of true. What is going on please? | | Thanks guys! Steve. | | | | | | |


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:54:50 PM PST US
    From: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
    Subject: Re: Drilling
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net> Steve.....if you want the holes to be round and centered where they started, start small and use progressivelly larger drills in small increments. Gary On the rare occasion in the past when I drill a large hole I have occasionally seen a tendancy for it to be slightly triangular. Now I have to drill the 5/16th holes for the rear spar. Before I do I want to make sure this is not going to hapeen. I did a test piece today and sure enough iit was slightly out of true. What is going on please? Thanks guys! Steve. ---




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