Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:38 PM - Quiet drills-revenge of the air drill (Merems)
2. 07:19 PM - Aileron lock nut (Curt Hoffman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Quiet drills-revenge of the air drill |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
Gents,
My purpose for writing about air drill vs electric drills was to help others out
who maybe deciding on which path to take. The responses to this email have
been very interesting. As I mentioned in the email, all aerospace companies us
air drills so that must be the best, right? Not always. Why do they use them.
I have heard several possibilities. Many of them make sense. But lets put
our thinking caps on and look back when they first started building metal airplanes.
I don't know the exact date, but maybe 1915 or so. Back then most
powered shop tools were driven by overhead belts and a central motor sources.
The electric hand drill wasn't even invented back then.
"In the early 1900's the electric drill weighed upwards of 50 pounds, required
two people to operate it and a third to control the power source. But in 1917,
on a kitchen table, S. Duncan Black and Alonzo B. Decker, Sr. conceived the first
portable drill. "
The only way to get a hand power tool in someone's hands on the assembly line was
to use air. It was easy to plumb through the shop, and was safe. You could
get a lot of power out of a very small and lightweight package, easy to maintain
and you could easily control the speed. That's how it all started. And
if you haven't figured it out, metal aircraft production hasn't changed very much
over the last 80 or so years. This maybe why they still use them. Electric
drills have come along way since the 1960's. I remember my father's Porter-Cable.
All metal construction single speed, weighed 4 to 5 pounds. With in
the use of plastics, lightweight alloys and variable speed control, electric drills
can be just as good as their air powered counterparts.
For those who are interested in keeping the noise levels down, not needing a "mega"
compressor, look into electric (corded) drills. Makita makes several, but
I chose the #6410 for the following reasons, 2.6# (lightest weight of all professional
drills from all the brands), 2200 rpm, and variable speed. I haven't
been disappointed yet. I burned up two 2500 rpm B&D (non-professional series)
drills building my RV-4. Based on my experiences with other Makita products,
I believe the Makita will make it through my RV-7.
I hope this helps others.
Paul
Message 2
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| Subject: | Aileron lock nut |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
The inboard aileron bracket has a screw that secures the bracket to the control
tube.The print calls for this screw to be secured with a MS21083-N3 lock nut.
It appears on the print to be a thinner version of an AN365-1032. None of these
21083 nuts came in the kit. I checked all the inventory sheets and there is
no mention of this nut.
Am I the only one to not get these or did Vans substitute the thicker nuts and
not change the print. I wrote to Vans but thought I'd check the list as well.
As an aside, what did most people do to shorten this screw as called for. Just
hack saw it off and clean up the end?
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings almost done- working on tail
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
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