Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:08 AM - horrors (John Kerr)
2. 08:29 AM - Re: horrors (Phil)
3. 08:29 AM - Re: horrors (Andy Karmy)
4. 08:41 AM - Re: Building in a small space. (BFlood@sauer-danfoss.com)
5. 09:14 AM - Re: horrors (Larry PERRYMAN)
6. 09:21 AM - Re: Wing tip lenses (Leland)
7. 09:22 AM - Re: Re: Building in a small space. (DThomas773@aol.com)
8. 09:33 AM - Re: Re: Building in a small space. (Gary)
9. 09:53 AM - Gas cap roll pins (Leland)
10. 10:10 AM - Re: Gas cap roll pins (Andy Karmy)
11. 11:20 AM - Re: Wing tip lenses (KDMIGAS@aol.com)
12. 11:42 AM - Re: Re: Wing tip lenses (Steve Sampson)
13. 01:36 PM - Re: flared fittings (Mark Schrimmer)
14. 02:36 PM - Re: Re: flared fittings (Chris)
15. 06:49 PM - Re: horrors (C J Heitman)
16. 10:08 PM - Re: Re: Wing tip lenses (Ralph Cloud)
17. 10:08 PM - Pro seal measuring methods (Ralph Cloud)
18. 10:08 PM - Re: Re: Building in a small space. (Ralph Cloud)
Message 1
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "John Kerr" <kerrjohna@mtwest.net>
horror of horrors, upon completing a thorough job of sealing the baffle to my tank
I placed on the appropriate spar to cure. Looking things over with a sense
of accomplishment, I noticed something out of normal. From one of the front-most
rivet positions in the skin was a "stalagtite" of sealer. I HAD FAILED TO
INSTALL ONE RIVET.
What do I do now. I have sealed a rivet in place but am dealing with a lot of
uncertainty now.
HELP
Message 2
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Phil" <Phil@camsnet.com>
Call Vans. The only thing I can think to do is a Blind Rivet. Call Vans
first.
Phil 90329 78
0
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Kerr
Subject: RV9-List: horrors
--> RV9-List message posted by: "John Kerr" <kerrjohna@mtwest.net>
horror of horrors, upon completing a thorough job of sealing the baffle to
my tank I placed on the appropriate spar to cure. Looking things over with a
sense of accomplishment, I noticed something out of normal. From one of the
front-most rivet positions in the skin was a "stalagtite" of sealer. I HAD
FAILED TO INSTALL ONE RIVET.
What do I do now. I have sealed a rivet in place but am dealing with a lot
of uncertainty now.
HELP
Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
AHHHHHH.......
Ok, now that that's over... :) Little humor to lighten your mood.
I would go for a sealed pop rivet. There are some that have the internals of the
pop rivet sealed up, you would slightly enlarge the hole to fit, then use a
dab of proseal and pop rivet in place. Give Vans a call they should know which
rivet would be the best to use.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "John Kerr" <kerrjohna@mtwest.net>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "John Kerr" <kerrjohna@mtwest.net>
>
>horror of horrors, upon completing a thorough job of sealing the baffle to my
tank I placed on the appropriate spar to cure. Looking things over with a sense
of accomplishment, I noticed something out of normal. From one of the front-most
rivet positions in the skin was a "stalagtite" of sealer. I HAD FAILED TO
INSTALL ONE RIVET.
>
>What do I do now. I have sealed a rivet in place but am dealing with a lot of
uncertainty now.
>
>HELP
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: Building in a small space. |
03/11/2003 10:40:23 AM
--> RV9-List message posted by: BFlood@Sauer-Danfoss.com
I am about to order my RV-9 Fuse but have a real problem... a 32 1/4 inch
door. I have talked to a few people about this and the best advice to date
seems to be to splice the rear fuse bulkhead (706 I believe) and then the
fuse will fit out my basement door when turned on it side. This is assuming
that the steps, windshield, roll bar and rear top skin are not riveted yet.
Does anybody have more experience with this on an RV-9? I would really like
to build in the basement as I don't have a garage and renting a space is
pretty unattractive. I would really appreciate any advice (or even
ridiculous story's for that matter.)
Thanks,
Bryan
(Working on the wings).
Message 5
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03/11/2003 06:13:01 PM,
Serialize complete at 03/11/2003 06:13:01 PM
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
The blind rivets were included in my kit. Check your parts bins and put
one in with a little proseal. That is what I had to do and now I can not
even find the rivet after painting.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
"Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
03/11/2003 10:37 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
cc:
Subject: Re: RV9-List: horrors
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
AHHHHHH.......
Ok, now that that's over... :) Little humor to lighten your mood.
I would go for a sealed pop rivet. There are some that have the internals
of the pop rivet sealed up, you would slightly enlarge the hole to fit,
then use a dab of proseal and pop rivet in place. Give Vans a call they
should know which rivet would be the best to use.
- Andy
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "John Kerr" <kerrjohna@mtwest.net>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "John Kerr" <kerrjohna@mtwest.net>
>
>horror of horrors, upon completing a thorough job of sealing the baffle
to my tank I placed on the appropriate spar to cure. Looking things over
with a sense of accomplishment, I noticed something out of normal. From
one of the front-most rivet positions in the skin was a "stalagtite" of
sealer. I HAD FAILED TO INSTALL ONE RIVET.
>
>What do I do now. I have sealed a rivet in place but am dealing with a
lot of uncertainty now.
>
>HELP
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wing tip lenses |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
Steve, I used a cutting wheel mounted on a Dremel tool and it cut rather than melted
the Plexiglass. When the abrasive wears off the wheels, it tends to heat rather
than
cut. I have actually smoked fiberglass, which blackens the tools armature and destroys
electrical contact. A cutting wheel mounted on a drill motor runs slower and does
not
seem to heat the plastic.
Leland in Pleasanton
Do not archive
>
> I used a cutting wheel just like you to grind/melt my way through the rough cuts.
> After cutting the lens in two, I fitted each half and marked out a rough cut
> closer to the desired cut. Then I re-fitted and cut a little closer, etc. I
> did the final trimming on a benchtop belt/disk sander to creep up on the desired
> fit. Final clean up with a bit of sandpaper. I didn't have any troble drilling,
> I'm not sure if they're as prone to cracking as the canopy.
>
> Todd
> RV9A
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Sampson [mailto:SSampson.SLN21@london.edu]
> Subject: RV9-List: Wing tip lenses
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
> What tools should I use to shape and drill the wing tip lenses. Its not
> clear to me what materials they are made of or that the canopy cutting rules
> apply to these. I divied the part into two with a cutting wheel but it
> largely achieved the task by melting rather than cutting. No problem so far,
> but I think I will take advice before I go further.
>
> Thanks, Steve
> #90360
>
> N Yorks., UK
>
> ___
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Building in a small space. |
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
Hi Bryan,
I'm not sure your going to come up with realistic solution of getting a
fuselage through a 32 inch door. Actually there is a lot of prep work on the
skins and bulkheads. You could do as much of that as possible. As you know
you first put things together to match drill and fit, then take apart to
dimple, deburr and prime. You could go that far and then transport the parts
to a more suitable place for final assembly.
Dennis Thomas
fuselage
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Building in a small space. |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Ridiculus stories abound. Trouble is they are all true! And much more humerous
than the actual event.
My advice would be......find a place to build you KNOW it will come out of without
heroic measures. This is a classic story. EAA made a movie called "How you
going to get it out of the Basement" documenting some real life antics you
wouldn't believe. More than a few guys have ended up excavating the back yard
and demolishing the foundation wall to get it out. Your wife would hate you
more for that than if you built it in the dining room.
A good friend of mine built a small ultralight in his basement. Had it absolutely
figured out how it would come out. That airplane will last forever, never
crash, and never burn a gallon of gas. And he has not had the use of his basement
for 9 years, and never will, until he takes a chain saw to his flying machine.
You are building the airplane of your dreams, and it will be worth more than your
house (Well, MY house anyway) when it is done. Don't do something you will
punish yourself for later.
Build a garage, rent an empty one, buy a hangar, whatever.......but get a suitable
place to work. You will be at it a while, and you will have SOOOO Much invested
by the time it won't fit through the door.
Even if you did mutilate it, and leave off the top half, where would you finish
it? Hell, if nothing else, make a bigger door! But don't try to get it up a
flight of stairs!
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: BFlood@sauer-danfoss.com
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 9:33 AM
Subject: RV9-List: RE: Building in a small space.
--> RV9-List message posted by: BFlood@Sauer-Danfoss.com
I am about to order my RV-9 Fuse but have a real problem... a 32 1/4 inch
door. I have talked to a few people about this and the best advice to date
seems to be to splice the rear fuse bulkhead (706 I believe) and then the
fuse will fit out my basement door when turned on it side. This is assuming
that the steps, windshield, roll bar and rear top skin are not riveted yet.
Does anybody have more experience with this on an RV-9? I would really like
to build in the basement as I don't have a garage and renting a space is
pretty unattractive. I would really appreciate any advice (or even
ridiculous story's for that matter.)
Thanks,
Bryan
(Working on the wings).
---
Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/27/03
Message 9
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| Subject: | Gas cap roll pins |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
If you tried to take your gas caps apart and broke a roll pin, you can
buy new ones from McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/). McMaster
Carr calls them "spring pins" and the part number is 92383A1100. A pack
of 100 in 1/16" diameter and 420 SS (best strength) costs $2.61 plus
shipping. Some builders replace the pins with drill rod. If you only
need a few, send me a SASE (self addressed and stamped envelope) and I
will send you some.
Leland
649 Abbie Street
Pleasanton, California 94566
Do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Gas cap roll pins |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
Yep, I broke mine too before the first flight even happened... Replaced both of
them with a set of 1/16" drill bit shanks. $1.50 from Lowes.
- Andy
Do Not Archive
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
>
>If you tried to take your gas caps apart and broke a roll pin, you can
>buy new ones from McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/). McMaster
>Carr calls them "spring pins" and the part number is 92383A1100. A pack
>of 100 in 1/16" diameter and 420 SS (best strength) costs $2.61 plus
>shipping. Some builders replace the pins with drill rod. If you only
>need a few, send me a SASE (self addressed and stamped envelope) and I
>will send you some.
>
>Leland
>649 Abbie Street
>Pleasanton, California 94566
>
>Do not archive
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wing tip lenses |
--> RV9-List message posted by: KDMIGAS@aol.com
Used a tip from this website to drill the holes in the lenses. Worked good.
Regrind the cutting tip of a drill to 60 degrees instead of the factory
angle. When you drill thru the lens for the screws,you get a smooth hole with
no cracking.. I believe the drills sold for drilling plexiglass are this
angle. Might check the archives.
Dick 90558 fuselage waiting
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wing tip lenses |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Leland - is your cutting wheel steel or that dark brown fibery stuff? I have
been using the latter. It cuts and melts - perhaps I will turn the speed
down....but the job is almost done. Do you know what the lenses are made of
? They seem really robust. My confidence grew as I progressed. I was
thinking if I could get a flat sheet of the same material I would make an
inspection hatch beneath my wing leveller by the bellcrankso I can look at
it for DI.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Leland
Subject: RV9-List: Re: Wing tip lenses
--> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
Steve, I used a cutting wheel mounted on a Dremel tool and it cut rather
than melted
the Plexiglass. When the abrasive wears off the wheels, it tends to heat
rather than
cut. I have actually smoked fiberglass, which blackens the tools armature
and destroys
electrical contact. A cutting wheel mounted on a drill motor runs slower and
does not
seem to heat the plastic.
Leland in Pleasanton
Do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | re: flared fittings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer@pacbell.net>
>If you go to www.parker.com and download their catalog for the 37 degree flair
>fittings (I think they call them triple lock), in there you will find a
>detailed description of the FFFT method which stands for Flats From Finger
>Tight.
The triple lock fittings seem to be made from steel, stainless steel or
brass. Aren't we using aluminum fittings? Does anybody know if you would
still use the same "Flats from Finger Tight" values for aluminum fittings as
you do for these other materials?
Mark Schrimmer
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: re: flared fittings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
I'm pretty sure the FFFT method was developed because of the possibility of
connecting fittings of different materials and or plating. The different materials
will have different friction so a torque value would be too hard to determine for
all possible combinations. The only thing you might want to do is put a tiny pit
of lubrication on the fitting before you tighten it.
Chris
Mark Schrimmer wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer@pacbell.net>
>
> >If you go to www.parker.com and download their catalog for the 37 degree flair
> >fittings (I think they call them triple lock), in there you will find a
> >detailed description of the FFFT method which stands for Flats From Finger
> >Tight.
>
> The triple lock fittings seem to be made from steel, stainless steel or
> brass. Aren't we using aluminum fittings? Does anybody know if you would
> still use the same "Flats from Finger Tight" values for aluminum fittings as
> you do for these other materials?
>
> Mark Schrimmer
Message 15
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
If you decide on a blind rivet, you may want to consider a closed end rivet
which eliminates the leak path through the center of the rivet. 1/8"
diameter countersunk closed-end blind rivets are available here:
http://pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/080.pdf (see Part No. 642-42-C) but I
don't know if 3/32" diameter ones are available.
Chris Heitman
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
--> RV9-List message posted by: "John Kerr" <kerrjohna@mtwest.net>
I HAD FAILED TO INSTALL ONE RIVET. What do I do now?
---
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Wing tip lenses |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ralph Cloud" <ercouper@flash.net>
melting/cutting through will keep from getting chipping along the cut
line... which will lead to cracks. An experienced IA I worked with trying to
learn as much as I could suggested using a cut-off wheel and letting it
melt/cut through.
Ralph
do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Sampson
> Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 12:30 PM
> To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV9-List: Re: Wing tip lenses
>
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
> <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
> Leland - is your cutting wheel steel or that dark brown fibery
> stuff? I have
> been using the latter. It cuts and melts - perhaps I will turn the speed
> down....but the job is almost done. Do you know what the lenses
> are made of
> ? They seem really robust. My confidence grew as I progressed. I was
> thinking if I could get a flat sheet of the same material I would make an
> inspection hatch beneath my wing leveller by the bellcrankso I can look at
> it for DI.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Leland
> Sent: 11 March 2003 17:15
> To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV9-List: Re: Wing tip lenses
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
>
> Steve, I used a cutting wheel mounted on a Dremel tool and it cut rather
> than melted
> the Plexiglass. When the abrasive wears off the wheels, it tends to heat
> rather than
> cut. I have actually smoked fiberglass, which blackens the tools armature
> and destroys
> electrical contact. A cutting wheel mounted on a drill motor runs
> slower and
> does not
> seem to heat the plastic.
> Leland in Pleasanton
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Pro seal measuring methods |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ralph Cloud" <ercouper@flash.net>
I have been trying to figure out something. To measure the mix for pro seal
by weight, without buying a diet scale or someting else. Isn't there a way
to configure a balance beam to compare the weights to get a 10 to 1 measure?
Any ideas
Ralph
Livermore
Message 18
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| Subject: | RE: Building in a small space. |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ralph Cloud" <ercouper@flash.net>
I read on the RV list a year or so ago about someone tearing out their
foundation to get the RV out of the basement .,.. too extreme.
> Build a garage, rent an empty one, buy a hangar,
Do all of your prep work match drilling and dimpling in the basement and
final assembly in a temporary shelter. Costco sells a arched, tarp covered
parking shelter for $150., just close off the ends. One builder in my EAA
chapter built the wing to his Glassair on his covered patio (it's a one
piece wing).
Ralph
Livermore
do not archive
> You are building the airplane of your dreams, and it will be
> worth more than your house (Well, MY house anyway) when it is
> done. Don't do something you will punish yourself for later.
>
> whatever.......but get a suitable place to work. You will be at
> it a while, and you will have SOOOO Much invested by the time it
> won't fit through the door.
>
>
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