Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:09 AM - Canopy Frame (Neil Henderson)
2. 05:43 AM - O-320-H2AD Cowl Modifications (Matthew Brandes)
3. 11:19 AM - Re: Canopy Frame (fcs@jlc.net)
4. 12:57 PM - leading edge (JOHN KERR)
5. 01:01 PM - Re: leading edge installation (Mark Schrimmer)
6. 01:45 PM - Re: horizontal stabilizer riveting (Terry Hobert)
7. 06:51 PM - Leveling fuselage (DThomas773@aol.com)
8. 08:54 PM - Re: Leveling fuselage (Gary)
Message 1
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
I've spent the last few days wrestling with the canopy frame and have achieved
almost perfect alignment apart from the slider track which is offset by about
=BC in. I'm tempted to leave it there and either fix the track off centre or reposition
the frame hinge bracket. Has anyone had a similar problem if so did
you continue wrestling or adopt the solution I'm thinking of?
Secondly, it seems to me that now would be a good time to fix the rear pin anchor
blocks rather than, as the Vans manual implies, after the canopy has been fitted.
If the blocks were fitted surely this would hold the frame in the final
and correct position during the installation of the canopy. Having not been
there before am I missing something?
Thanking you in advance for your thoughts during this trying and challenging phase.
Neil Henderson RV9A Finishing
Nr Aylesbury UK
Message 2
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Subject: | O-320-H2AD Cowl Modifications |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Matthew Brandes <mbrandes@irr.com>
I emailed Van's about any cowl modifications required if one selected the
H2AD engine. Here is their response for those of you considering this
model.
"It will require changes. The oil door needs to be moved as the filler neck
is in a different place. Also the H2AD has the fuel pump on the front left
and it will be necessary to put a small bulge in the top of the cowl there
to clear the pump. You also need the special H2 engine mount, not the
standard D1. -- Vans"
Matthew
RV-9A
Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "fcs@jlc.net" <fcs@jlc.net>
I don't understand how your track would end up off-center. Is there a
visible difference in the curvature of your top skin on either side?
Assuming your canopy frame was welded symetrically, there's no reason why
the track wouldn't be centered unless the frame was distorted somehow. I
didn't see how far off it is in your prior posting because it was garbled.
If we're talking a tiny amount, then it's probably OK.
Regarding the rear blocks, I would hold off installing them, per plans.
The canopy puts all sorts of strain on the frame as you assemble the bubble
and the skirts. You will achieve the best fit in the blocks if you hold
off until the bubble and skirts are at least cleco'ed together.
Fun little sucker isn't it? But you've got to admit, it works pretty well.
Gary
Message 4
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--> RV9-List message posted by: JOHN KERR <kerrjohna@comcast.net>
thank you for your suggestions. the task was completed on the first
wing last night with the help of an able assistant with thin arms.
John
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: leading edge installation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer@pacbell.net>
>I squeezed all of the rib to spar rivets that have lightening holes next to
them. The few that could not be reached (upperand bottom most rivets at
small lightening hole location only) I used blind rivets on. Vans support
okayed the use of LP4-3 or cherrymax rivets.
__________________________________
About a year ago, I asked Van's about using LP4-3 rivets. Here is there
reply . . .
>Yes, the LP4-3 can be used as long as the grip of the rivet is not exceeded...
one rib thickness+the spar web thickness... in places where a nose and a
main rib and the web might be riveted with the same rivet, then a longer
grip would be required and we don't have them....
>Van's
After reading this, I used LP-3 rivets in all the holes where the grip
length was long enough, and I used Cherry N rivets (not Cherrymax) in the
holes where I needed a longer grip. I didn't use any solid rivets. Anybody
see a problem with this? I'd hate to have to drill out all those pop rivets!
Mark Schrimmer
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizer riveting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
Hey Guys, I'm so glad that I got my HS done before reading all the woes, it
would have scared me off. I guess I was lucky (or just dumb), but the tip
ribs were a little trouble, but not torturous. Andy Karmy gave me a hunk of
steel to make a little bucking bar out of anf that helped a little also.
Terry 90860, wings ordered.
>From: DThomas773@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
>To: rv9-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: horizontal stabilizer riveting
>Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 23:30:00 EST
>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
>
>Hi Bruce,
>This is a problem we have all had. I just accepted the depression, or
>pillowing as some call it. It is caused by the skin not being uniformly
>held
>to the shape needed and you actually are squeezing the skin in to meet the
>rib. Some folks say they have overcome it by adding additional cradles to
>your jig. I'm sure you will get addtional advice as well.
>
>Dennis Thomas
>fuselage
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Leveling fuselage |
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
Hi Folks,
I'm at the point where the instructions say" roll the canoe over. level it
at the mid section and at f-910 bulkhead to check for twist." How much twist
is an allowable amount? I am real close but am wondering how close it should
be. Appreciate any and all input.
Dennis Thomas
Taildragger/tipup
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Leveling fuselage |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Close as you can measure with a good level, is how I did mine.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: DThomas773@aol.com
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 7:49 PM
Subject: RV9-List: Leveling fuselage
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
Hi Folks,
I'm at the point where the instructions say" roll the canoe over. level it
at the mid section and at f-910 bulkhead to check for twist." How much twist
is an allowable amount? I am real close but am wondering how close it should
be. Appreciate any and all input.
Dennis Thomas
Taildragger/tipup
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