Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:34 AM - Compressor question (Jim Smith)
2. 12:26 PM - Re: Compressor question (Gary)
3. 12:47 PM - Tank (Boyd Butler)
4. 01:13 PM - Re: Tank (Im7shannon@aol.com)
5. 01:44 PM - Re: Tank (Chris W)
6. 01:57 PM - Re: Tank (Cy Galley)
7. 03:43 PM - Re: Tank (DThomas773@aol.com)
8. 06:19 PM - Re: Tank (Gary)
9. 10:08 PM - Re: Compressor question (Ken Moak)
10. 10:41 PM - Re: Tank oops (Ken Moak)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Compressor question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Smith" <jsmith@openairnet.com>
I have an old compressor that is 1.5 HP with a 3 gallon tank. Will this do
the job or should I get a bigger one? Suggestions welcome.
Jim Smith
Lead Internet Specialist
www.fun-places-to-fly.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Compressor question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
You might want more tank capacity. If you keep the pressure down below 80 psi
or so, you could hook an old water heater tank in series with what you have.
Patch the pin holes with JB Weld and use a filter/dryer. Toss it in the trash
when you are ready to go fly.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Smith
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 11:34 AM
Subject: RV9-List: Compressor question
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Smith" <jsmith@openairnet.com>
I have an old compressor that is 1.5 HP with a 3 gallon tank. Will this do
the job or should I get a bigger one? Suggestions welcome.
Jim Smith
Lead Internet Specialist
www.fun-places-to-fly.com
---
Version: 6.0.465 / Virus Database: 263 - Release Date: 3/28/03
Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Boyd Butler" <linbb@worldnet.att.net>
Please do not use anything other than an approved tank for air the resulting
disaster if it explodes can and will be devastating if you or any one is near,do
not patch as described. Also the more air pressure for a given volume of tank
will result in more capacity in the tank to draw from.
The results of using anything like described has been witnessed after my neighbor
did that with an old heater that wasn't leaking.
Boyd Butler
Message 4
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--> RV9-List message posted by: Im7shannon@aol.com
You could, however pressure test your system first at about 200 psi from a
safe distance. This should be done anyway for any added components which have
not been tested by the manufacturer.
Kevin
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Boyd Butler" <linbb@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Please do not use anything other than an approved tank for air the
> resulting disaster if it explodes can and will be devastating if you or any
> one is near,do not patch as described. Also the more air pressure for a
> given volume of tank will result in more capacity in the tank to draw from.
> The results of using anything like described has been witnessed after my
> neighbor did that with an old heater that wasn't leaking.
> Boyd Butler
>
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV9-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
I have to agree. If you want to just add more tank capacity look around for someone
with a dead compressor that is replacing it, take the dead compressor off
sell the motor on ebay and use just the tank, or there are some places you
can buy an air tank with out the compressor.
Chris W
Boyd Butler wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Boyd Butler" <linbb@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Please do not use anything other than an approved tank for air the resulting
disaster if it explodes can and will be devastating if you or any one is near,do
not patch as described. Also the more air pressure for a given volume of
tank will result in more capacity in the tank to draw from.
> The results of using anything like described has been witnessed after my neighbor
did that with an old heater that wasn't leaking.
> Boyd Butler
>
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 6
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
When testing a gas vessel, fill with water, then apply the pressure with air
to one and one half times your working pressure. If the tank ruptures, the
excess pressure is quickly and safely released with a very small amount of
nearly incompressible water. Air pressure takes a large amount of space
before it gets down to safe levels. Generally, an explosion results sending
pieces of the tank out like shrapnel or the tank goes flying. The working
pressure is where one sets the pressure relief valve. Don't run a fluid
system whether it be gas or water without a pressure safety valve.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <Im7shannon@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Tank
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Im7shannon@aol.com
>
> You could, however pressure test your system first at about 200 psi from a
> safe distance. This should be done anyway for any added components which
have
> not been tested by the manufacturer.
> Kevin
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Boyd Butler" <linbb@worldnet.att.net>
> >
> > Please do not use anything other than an approved tank for air the
> > resulting disaster if it explodes can and will be devastating if you or
any
> > one is near,do not patch as described. Also the more air pressure for a
> > given volume of tank will result in more capacity in the tank to draw
from.
> > The results of using anything like described has been witnessed after
my
> > neighbor did that with an old heater that wasn't leaking.
> > Boyd Butler
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
Since their is much discussion of this subject, I will add my 2 cents worth.
When I started this project I used the page in the Van's website that helps
project the cost of building an RV. The gave an estimate of $2,000 for tools
and approximately $45,000 to build the airplane. It occurred to me then that
it would be penny wise and pound foolish to sacrifice the safety or integrity
of my $45,000 airplane to save a few bucks off the estimate on tool cost.
Many of the tools you will need are readily sellable if want to when your
project is done.
And you know what. A good compressor doesn't cost that much.
With this statement I will promise to stay off the soap box for at least a
week. Yes, I'm over budget on tool cost.
Dennis Thomas
90164
Fuselage
Message 8
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Well, if you guys won't let me use an old water heater for an air tank, then I
will just have to save the money by not priming the alclad.
Gary
---
Version: 6.0.465 / Virus Database: 263 - Release Date: 3/28/03
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Compressor question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Ken Moak <ken_moak@yahoo.com>
Jim
I would start with it. I know people that have been
able to do a lot with small compressors. If you find
it limiting at least you will have time to look around
at the choices.
Storage is easy to add, I have used tanks from old
compressors and water heater tanks. Water heaters
worry me a little. They were designed for a max
working pressure of 150 psi, that was before the rust
and sediment. If a tank lets go with water, no big
deal since water does not compress. I don't want to
see a tank with air pressure come apart. I suspect it
would be pretty much a non-event at 100 psi, but
having worked around high pressure air (3000 - 5000
psi) 4 stage compressors I have a lot of respect for
air pressure.
HP on air compressors is often misleading. Some
compressors have small HP motors running at low RPM
and will last a long time. Others get high HP ratings
and high RPM and don't last as long.
Look at the tools you plan on using for example a
A squeezer does not require a lot of air.
A drill requires more.
Die grinder is like cutting your air hose.
If you decide to buy a new one I would try and avoid
the oiless ones, most oil lubricated ones are quieter
and last longer. Look a the CFM and at what pressure
they are rated. After all a fan is high CFM but very
low pressure. I prefer a low RPM compressor to a high
RPM. General y quieter and last longer. More storage
the better, at least to a point. That is my 2 cents
worth of things I have found important. I currently
have 3 compressors (shop, home and farm) the forth was
a Sears cheap, oiless, portable, high HP rating, high
RPM, noisy, and self destruct ed early.
Ken
do not archive
--- Jim Smith <jsmith@openairnet.com> wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Smith"
> <jsmith@openairnet.com>
>
> I have an old compressor that is 1.5 HP with a 3
> gallon tank. Will this do
> the job or should I get a bigger one? Suggestions
> welcome.
>
> Jim Smith
> Lead Internet Specialist
> www.fun-places-to-fly.com
>
>
>
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Message 10
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--> RV9-List message posted by: Ken Moak <ken_moak@yahoo.com>
Sorry I posted to the other thread on compressors
before I saw this one.
If you use an old compressor tank watch out for rust,
remove drain, flush and check. The inside is where
most tanks start to fail. If it is an ASME rated tank
it will probably last forever. I don't know their
specs but I know when we used ASME they never required
hydro testing, DOT did. Air compressors can use ASME
but are not required to.
Other wise check it with water. The DOT pressure
tanks I worked with were hydrostaticly tested at 5/3
thirds the working pressure. If you want to use 100
PSI that would require a test to about 166 PSI for a
good safety check.
My gut feeling is a water heater tank would pin hole
and not explode, I saw (very briefly) a aluminum tank
filled to 3000 leak out a cracked neck without
exploding, but I did hit the emergency shut off as I
ran out the door to wait on the thing to bleed down.
Why take a chance on a scrap metal bomb, I did this
before I learned how much potential energy is stored
in a tank.
I'll get off my soap box. Things have to be just so
for an explosive release to occur, but having worked
around high pressure air I gained a lot of respect for
the dangers even relatively low pressure air can
present.
do not archive
Ken
--- Boyd Butler <linbb@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Boyd Butler"
> <linbb@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Please do not use anything other than an approved
> tank for air the resulting disaster if it explodes
> can and will be devastating if you or any one is
> near,do not patch as described. Also the more air
> pressure for a given volume of tank will result in
> more capacity in the tank to draw from.
> The results of using anything like described has
> been witnessed after my neighbor did that with an
> old heater that wasn't leaking.
> Boyd Butler
>
>
>
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