Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:25 AM - Wd716 C702 - tipper canopy (Steve Sampson)
2. 02:08 PM - canopy cutting (Roy Taylor)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wd716 C702 - tipper canopy |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
I am working on the tipper canopy and the Wd716 weldement. I have run into
the problem where the outer 3 rivet holes on each side sit way above the
rear tube of the weldement. (Personally I think the weldement is not welded
as designed though VANS assures me they are all like this, and I know others
have had this problem.)
My question is what do people do about it. I hate not to have it joined
however the distance in the worst case is around 3/8ths - too far for a shim
or blind rivet. I would really welcome advice since I have ground to a halt.
(My own view is that the problem is caused by the part not being welded up
as the designer intended. If the notch in the tube was used to stabalise it
in the welding process it would sit higher under the 702 skin holes.)
A minor issue - it is not clear what edge distance I will have on the canopy
hinge holes. How important is this?
I look forward to some help on these two.
Thanks, Steve Sampson
#90360
N Yorks., UK
Message 2
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly@btinternet.com>
Well, I'm doing the dreaded deed and taking the dremel to the plexi and I must
say that , so far, it's not so bad. It cuts it very easily, and rubbing the cut
edge with coarse then fine wet n dry wrapped round a block produces a nice smooth
edge. Cutting the canopy in two was a buttock clenching moment but so far
so good. I'm really concerned about using blind rivets to fix the slider part
to the frame..am I alone in this and should I be thinking of drilling and tapping
the frame and fix the canopy with screws for more feel when tightening down....and
has anyone actually cracked their canopy in construction or am I just
being too nervous?
Roy, Sweating in Somerset (and it's not the weather!)
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