RV9-List Digest Archive

Mon 04/14/03


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:39 AM - Re: nose wheel fairing question (Larry Perryman)
     2. 04:25 PM - F-724-L & R aft fuse blkhd (JohnCClarkVA@cs.com)
     3. 07:35 PM - Flap Control Arm (WD-613-EF) (DThomas773@aol.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:39:57 AM PST US
    From: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@txucom.net>
    Subject: Re: nose wheel fairing question
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@txucom.net> What do you plan to do for a tow bar? I left the 3/4 inch holes open and bought a Cessna style tow bar that clamps over the Allen head studs . As far as the valve stem holes, I used a 11/2 hole saw and drilled a hole in each of the rear fairings and a smaller one in the nose gear fairing. Keep the plugs cut out. I then cut an aluminum circle about 1/2 inch larger than each of the plugs you cut out. From Home Depot, I bought three Sawzall metal cutting blades that were about 3/4 x 6 inches. I ground off the teeth and rounded the ends. I then drilled the saw blade, the backing plate and the plug that I cut out together and riveted them together. You now have a nice plug that will fill almost all of the hole you cut into the fairing. Drill a hole in the other end of the blade for a 6-32 or 8-32 screw. Put the whole thing against the fairing and find a good place to drill the screw hole through the fairing. Put a plate nut on the screw end of the blade. Install on the inside of the fairing and you now have a door that will open and allow you access to the tire stem. I put mine so that the stem is aligned when it is in the 9 o'clock position. With the plate nut, you can use a screwdriver in the screw to rotate the door back down if you do not want to reach in and pull it back down. A cheap nutdriver makes a good tool for removing and installing the cap on the stem once the fairings are on. One other item that I have seen that is a help is to go to a auto parts or truck parts store and get a brass valve stem extension normally used for dual rear tire setups. The one I saw was about 6 inches long. It will screw on the valve stem and extend beyond the fairing so you can air the tire up with any air chuck you have. Well enough of my ramblings. Regards Larry Perryman N194DL 60hrs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jones" <esnj@granbury.com> Subject: Re: RV9-List: nose wheel fairing question > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jones" <esnj@granbury.com> > > I drilled holes,5/8" I think, and then covered them with plastic hole plugs > from Lowe's painted to match the fairing. Same for the valve stem access > holes on all 3 fairings, except larger holes....Dick Jones > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer@dreamscape.com> > To: <rv9-list@matronics.com> > Subject: RV9-List: nose wheel fairing question > > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: "steve dwyer" <stdwyer@dreamscape.com> > > > > It says to finger tight the 3/8 allen screw when installing the forward > fairing support bracket part number U-813D on drawing C1. I can not find > anything else telling us how to final tighten the bolt and there's no space > to get the allen wrench in there, does anyone have a suggestion in short of > drilling a hole in the fairing to insert the wrench? > > > > Steve Dwyer > > > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:25:59 PM PST US
    From: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
    Subject: F-724-L & R aft fuse blkhd
    --> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com I was ready to install the F-724-R aft fuselage bulkhead. Found that I had two lefts although one was marked right. Called Van's, they knew of the problem and have one on its way. You may want to compare the L and R now so that you don't have to wait. My fuselage kit was shipped at the end of December. John Clark 90-512


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:35:30 PM PST US
    From: DThomas773@aol.com
    Subject: Flap Control Arm (WD-613-EF)
    --> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com I'm hoping for input from folks who are past this point. I installed this control arm, mounted in the plastic bearing blocks and it was really stiff. It required a good bit of pressure to move it. I removed it, filed sanded and polished all the bearing surfaces and put it back in the airplane. It was a lot better but still quite stiff. Is this a reason for concern? Does that little flap motot have a lot of torque? I will appreciate any and all comments. Dennis Thomas fuselage




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