Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:58 AM - Re: Flap Control Arm (WD-613-EF) (Leland)
2. 03:21 PM - Canopy (Roy Taylor)
3. 04:07 PM - Re: Canopy (Larry PERRYMAN)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Flap Control Arm (WD-613-EF) |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
Dennis, try loosening the bolts on the center support block to see if
that is the one that is binding. Then be sure you have enough washers
between the halves. Consider a small amount of lubricant on the inner
surfaces especially the center block. If that does not do it, take the
weldment out and check for war page or buckling, which can be
straightened out.
Leland in Pleasanton
Message 2
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly@btinternet.com>
Leland, having studied the archive, I can see lots of evidence of cracks occuring
during construction, but equally a lot of people haven't had a problem. I practised
today with a slow speed cordless drill on some scrap plexi using standard
#40, plexi bit, and uni-bit...no cracking. Then I switched to high speed
and really went at it with a lot of pressure...still no cracks although the other
side of the holes showed some chipping. Iwas able to dress these out with
a small grind stone in the drill....all this at 65*F.
Upshot is, I'm going really gentle with #40 first like Van says, enlarge with unibit,
dress holes with mini stone and keep the heat up. I'll use your suggestion
of smoothing edges with vibro sander..still use the Dremel for cutting though!
Of course, banging in those blind rivets still has me nervy!
Another point...is there any provision in the kit for some shock absorbing where
the slider meets the roll bar, mine has a nice even gap all round, but it's
the roller part that hits the roll bar first...that must send a hell of a shock
through the frame when you close it a bit too firmly...still thinking of the
plexi, see!
BTW, I've just had an Avionics guy check out my wiring on the Becker Radio and
Transponder I fitted and I only had one ground in the wrong D-sub terminal, so
quite pleased! The encoder was out by 200' which he adjusted so I hopefully won't
have to go diving into the panel after completion.
Regards, Roy, Somerset, U.K.
Message 3
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04/16/2003 01:07:34 AM,
Serialize complete at 04/16/2003 01:07:34 AM
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
Roy,
I worked my canopy in the dead of winter and just used a heater under the
canopy to warm it up. I like the dremel with the cut off disks for cutting
the canopy. It cuts like butter with them. I broke a few because they get
so hot cutting but that was not a problem. I tried the cutoff wheel with
the die grinder and found it to be much harder to control and use. A lot
more dust in the air also.
Regarding the shock of the canopy closing. I would not worry about it that
much. The plastic that they use for the canopy is very tough. Try to break
a piece once you have the skirt off the canopy.
BTW there is plenty of extra material so don't worry about cutting to a
fine line first time. I went out about 1 inch beyond where the canopy
final cuts should be and still had plenty of material for the windscreen.
Still had to trim an inch or two off the back of it on final fit.
The best advice I can give is to set the canopy frame inside the canopy
and move it around until it is fitting the best you can get. Then mark it
with a sharpie and cut outside of the line.
Drilling is the biggest problem. Normal metal cutting bits will tend to
screw into the plexi if you give them a chance. That is why they recommend
the flat blade ceramic drill bits. When riveting, just make sure that the
canopy is warm to the touch and you should not have a problem. Practice
on a few scraps from the canopy skirt if you want to. You can rivet and
drill all day long if the material is warm. Just make sure that the holes
are a bit bigger than the rivet or screw.
One trick that you may know is to take regular tan masking tape and put a
strip along where the canopy will set. You will see a line that is darker
than the rest of the tape where the canopy touches the frame. Drill there
and you will not put any additional stress on the canopy. It also aligns
your holes better than you think.
As far as the front seal area, in the Wicks catalog I saw some rubber
molding for a Mooney that is about the right thickness and shape to make a
nice seal and bumper cushion. I filled the area under the windscreen to
the canopy bow so that it was flush with the edge of the bow and 90
degrees to the fiberglass layup that you do on the top of the windscreen.
This left me with a nice flat surface to mount the rubber molding to.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N184DL 60hrs
"Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly@btinternet.com>
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
04/15/2003 05:23 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Canopy
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly@btinternet.com>
Leland, having studied the archive, I can see lots of evidence of cracks
occuring during construction, but equally a lot of people haven't had a
problem. I practised today with a slow speed cordless drill on some scrap
plexi using standard #40, plexi bit, and uni-bit...no cracking. Then I
switched to high speed and really went at it with a lot of
pressure...still no cracks although the other side of the holes showed
some chipping. Iwas able to dress these out with a small grind stone in
the drill....all this at 65*F.
Upshot is, I'm going really gentle with #40 first like Van says, enlarge
with unibit, dress holes with mini stone and keep the heat up. I'll use
your suggestion of smoothing edges with vibro sander..still use the Dremel
for cutting though!
Of course, banging in those blind rivets still has me nervy!
Another point...is there any provision in the kit for some shock absorbing
where the slider meets the roll bar, mine has a nice even gap all round,
but it's the roller part that hits the roll bar first...that must send a
hell of a shock through the frame when you close it a bit too
firmly...still thinking of the plexi, see!
BTW, I've just had an Avionics guy check out my wiring on the Becker Radio
and Transponder I fitted and I only had one ground in the wrong D-sub
terminal, so quite pleased! The encoder was out by 200' which he adjusted
so I hopefully won't have to go diving into the panel after completion.
Regards, Roy, Somerset, U.K.
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