Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:40 AM - Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue (Tim)
2. 11:19 AM - Canopy (Roy Taylor)
3. 01:59 PM - Elevator mounting problem (Don Alexander)
4. 03:40 PM - Re: Elevator mounting problem (Tim)
5. 03:52 PM - Re: Elevator mounting problem (Dean)
6. 09:01 PM - Re: Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue (Im7shannon@aol.com)
7. 09:07 PM - Re: Canopy (larry-perryman)
8. 09:13 PM - Re: Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue (larry-perryman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Tim <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Howdy all -
OK, so I have been whacking away at ye ole
Gumption Robber (read as "canopy") and I think
I have run into an issue.
While upside down on the bench, the frame fit
perfectly into the plexi in one particular
position, with only a small gap near the front
bow. So I made all the cuts based on this and
split the canopy in two.
OK, so now I put the frame and plexi back on
the fuse for fitting, and I see the gap at the
front bow is fairly significant, and pulling the
bubble onto the frame more tightly doesn't quite
close it. If I forcibly close the gap (1") at the
top with my hand, the plexi deforms to the point
where if I were to rivet everything as is, there
would be quite a bit of "pre load" around the
top of the frame.
The entire rest of the canopy fits really well.
In fact, starting a couple of inches back from
the latch handle, the center tube follows the curve
of the plexi EXACTLY.
I guess I expected the plexi to lay down a bit
flatter once it was cut in two, but that didn't
happen. My suspicion is that despite the good fit
for the rest of the frame, I may have split the
bubble a couple of inches too far aft.
Any thoughts from those that have been here already?
There are hundreds of canopy questions in the archives
but I can't find any that address this specific issue.
I'm tempted to let the frame and plexi sit in the
Arizona sun today and see if it melts into a perfect
fit :-)
Here are a few pictures if it helps:
http://www.deru.com/~rv9a/canopy/canopy.htm
Thanks,
- Tim.
Message 2
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Roy Taylor" <Royandjilly@btinternet.com>
I'm just offering up the slider aft canopy skirts for initial trimming. What's
the relationship between the C-653 cover strip, C-792 doghouse, and the top edges
of the aft canopy skirts? In other words, what goes over,under, or is rivetted
to what...can't tell from the plans, and the instructions just run out at
this point. And whats that bit of fishing line on the C679 canopy slider seal
all about?
Roy, G-RUVY.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Elevator mounting problem |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Don Alexander <don_shirley@propjock.com>
This afternoon I began mounting the elevators to the HS so I could drill the elevator
horns where they bolt to the center bearing on the HS spar. The right
elevator went on fine but when I went to install the rod end bearings into the
left elevator one of them wouldn't start. It acted a bit like it wanted to cross
thread. On closer examination I noticed that the K1000-6 platenut isn't
quite centered perfectly on the holes in the spar ant the E-910 Hinge reinforcement
plate. It's real close to being centered but not quite - apparently just
barely enough to keep the rod end bearing from getting started. I'm looking
for a simple solution and I'm not finding one. Has anyone encountered and solved
this problem?
Don 90702
Finishing the empenage (and itching to start the wings)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator mounting problem |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Tim <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Don Alexander wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Don Alexander
...
> bearings into the left elevator one of them wouldn't start. It acted
>a bit like it wanted to cross thread. On closer examination I noticed
>that the K1000-6 platenut isn't quite centered perfectly on the holes
>in the spar ant the E-910 Hinge reinforcement plate. It's real close
...
Usually just [very carefully] enlarging the hole to the
next practical size will fix this. Just avoid drilling
on the nutplate.
- Tim.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator mounting problem |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Don
I have encountered this problem several times in the kit. Whether using
appropriate size clecoes or a bolt with stacked washers to locate the
nutplate for drilling for the mounting rivets, it still seems to happen even
when using a cleco in the first hole while drilling the second hole. If you
have a Number Drill Set, select a bit just slightly larger than the existing
hole to open it slightly. Be careful to avoid drilling into the nutplate
itself. The nutplates sometimes seem to shift slightly when squeezing or
driving the attaching rivets. Hope this helps.
Dean Van Winkle
90095
Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Alexander" <don_shirley@propjock.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator mounting problem
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Don Alexander <don_shirley@propjock.com>
>
> This afternoon I began mounting the elevators to the HS so I could drill
the elevator horns where they bolt to the center bearing on the HS spar.
The right elevator went on fine but when I went to install the rod end
bearings into the left elevator one of them wouldn't start. It acted a bit
like it wanted to cross thread. On closer examination I noticed that the
K1000-6 platenut isn't quite centered perfectly on the holes in the spar ant
the E-910 Hinge reinforcement plate. It's real close to being centered but
not quite - apparently just barely enough to keep the rod end bearing from
getting started. I'm looking for a simple solution and I'm not finding one.
Has anyone encountered and solved this problem?
>
> Don 90702
>
> Finishing the empenage (and itching to start the wings)
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Im7shannon@aol.com
Just shim the spots that dont lay down tight to the frame with plastic
washers
Kevin
> Howdy all -
>
> OK, so I have been whacking away at ye ole
> Gumption Robber (read as "canopy") and I think
> I have run into an issue.
>
> While upside down on the bench, the frame fit
> perfectly into the plexi in one particular
> position, with only a small gap near the front
> bow. So I made all the cuts based on this and
> split the canopy in two.
>
> OK, so now I put the frame and plexi back on
> the fuse for fitting, and I see the gap at the
> front bow is fairly significant, and pulling the
> bubble onto the frame more tightly doesn't quite
> close it. If I forcibly close the gap (1") at the
> top with my hand, the plexi deforms to the point
> where if I were to rivet everything as is, there
> would be quite a bit of "pre load" around the
> top of the frame.
>
> The entire rest of the canopy fits really well.
> In fact, starting a couple of inches back from
> the latch handle, the center tube follows the curve
> of the plexi EXACTLY.
>
> I guess I expected the plexi to lay down a bit
> flatter once it was cut in two, but that didn't
> happen. My suspicion is that despite the good fit
> for the rest of the frame, I may have split the
> bubble a couple of inches too far aft.
>
> Any thoughts from those that have been here already?
> There are hundreds of canopy questions in the archives
> but I can't find any that address this specific issue.
> I'm tempted to let the frame and plexi sit in the
> Arizona sun today and see if it melts into a perfect
> fit :-)
>
> Here are a few pictures if it helps:
> http://www.deru.com/~rv9a/canopy/canopy.htm
>
> Thanks,
> - Tim.
>
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "larry-perryman" <larry-perryman@txucom.net>
Roy,
The way I did it is to put the dog house on the bottom. The side skirts
next and then the top strip. Don't know if this is the right way but
that set it up so that what was forward was on top.
The string is to pull the second block along the rail. Its job is to
fill the doghouse so not much air comes in around it. I did not install
it. The string runs from the block that the canopy slides on to the
filler block. Without the string, the second block would slide back when
the canopy was opened but never come forward again without it.
Regards
Larry Perryman
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roy Taylor
Subject: RV9-List: Canopy
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Roy Taylor"
<Royandjilly@btinternet.com>
I'm just offering up the slider aft canopy skirts for initial trimming.
What's the relationship between the C-653 cover strip, C-792 doghouse,
and the top edges of the aft canopy skirts? In other words, what goes
over,under, or is rivetted to what...can't tell from the plans, and the
instructions just run out at this point. And whats that bit of fishing
line on the C679 canopy slider seal all about?
Roy, G-RUVY.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "larry-perryman" <larry-perryman@txucom.net>
Tim,
You may need to put a heater under the canopy for a bit with the frame
supported so the canopy can deform and shape to the frame. It will help
if it is warm. That is the way they blow the canopy in the first place.
Some clips while heating to help pull it down will not hurt. It is
surprising how flexible the canopy can become when warm.
Regards
Larry Perryman
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Subject: RV9-List: Yet Another Canopy Fit Issue
--> RV9-List message posted by: Tim <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Howdy all -
OK, so I have been whacking away at ye ole
Gumption Robber (read as "canopy") and I think
I have run into an issue.
While upside down on the bench, the frame fit
perfectly into the plexi in one particular
position, with only a small gap near the front
bow. So I made all the cuts based on this and
split the canopy in two.
OK, so now I put the frame and plexi back on
the fuse for fitting, and I see the gap at the
front bow is fairly significant, and pulling the
bubble onto the frame more tightly doesn't quite
close it. If I forcibly close the gap (1") at the
top with my hand, the plexi deforms to the point
where if I were to rivet everything as is, there
would be quite a bit of "pre load" around the
top of the frame.
The entire rest of the canopy fits really well.
In fact, starting a couple of inches back from
the latch handle, the center tube follows the curve
of the plexi EXACTLY.
I guess I expected the plexi to lay down a bit
flatter once it was cut in two, but that didn't
happen. My suspicion is that despite the good fit
for the rest of the frame, I may have split the
bubble a couple of inches too far aft.
Any thoughts from those that have been here already?
There are hundreds of canopy questions in the archives
but I can't find any that address this specific issue.
I'm tempted to let the frame and plexi sit in the
Arizona sun today and see if it melts into a perfect
fit :-)
Here are a few pictures if it helps:
http://www.deru.com/~rv9a/canopy/canopy.htm
Thanks,
- Tim.
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