---------------------------------------------------------- RV9-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 09/18/03: 2 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:25 PM - More on Tank Leaks (JVonDolen@aol.com) 2. 07:16 PM - Re: More on Tank Leaks (Harold Kovac) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:25:59 PM PST US From: JVonDolen@aol.com Subject: RV9-List: More on Tank Leaks --> RV9-List message posted by: JVonDolen@aol.com Steve, I don't know if you have been able to seal your filler caps yet or not or what else has transpired since you posted, but here are my comments: First of all, 2" drop every 30 minutes from only a 10" differential is not a minute leak, it is one that can be easily seen with a soap solution (I brushed mine on rather than sprayed). I was getting leaks from my filler caps too but was able to seal them (for test purposes) with duct tape but I had to work at it, ie, clean the surface around the cap with a solvent then apply liberal duct tape very carefully. After getting the caps sealed I was still getting a slow drop in my water manometer from a starting point of about 25", and all the areas around the end plate were not leaking. So even tho I have QB wings/tanks I decided to check all the rivets and seams. On one tank I found two leaking baffle rivets, one in the top and one on the bottom. They would "bubble" quite noticeably, and after sealing with my beloved duct tape no more bubbles and the manometer held its level for several days (varying of course with temperature and baro pressure). The factory suggested using Loctite or Permatex thread locker, penetrating grade (green color). The fluid wicks into the leak and seals it, they said. I did this and sure enough, no leaks, either top or bottom. But I'm still a little worried about how permanent this solution is. Harold Kovac, I sure would be interested to hear more about how you drilled those 5 rivets out. Were they hard to remove since they were imbeded in cured Proseal, and did you have any concerns about getting debris (sp) inside your tank? Were they pop rivets or solid ones? John Von Dohlen Canopy ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:16:45 PM PST US From: "Harold Kovac" Subject: Re: RV9-List: More on Tank Leaks --> RV9-List message posted by: "Harold Kovac" Hi John, I had 5 rivets in a row on one side of the baffle flange area, just drilled them out , cleaned up the dimples/holes with MEK, mixed a bit of Pro Seal, then re-riveted, next day checked with the manometer and NO LEAK. I lost about 4-5 weeks trying suds , gooping up all the flange rivets on the baffle , and end sides, and no joy...when the neighor pulled the winter cover from his pool I did a dunk and solved my problem ....finally. Good luck Harold 9A working on completing wings ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV9-List: More on Tank Leaks > --> RV9-List message posted by: JVonDolen@aol.com > > Steve, I don't know if you have been able to seal your filler caps yet or not > or what else has transpired since you posted, but here are my comments: > > First of all, 2" drop every 30 minutes from only a 10" differential is not a > minute leak, it is one that can be easily seen with a soap solution (I > brushed mine on rather than sprayed). I was getting leaks from my filler caps too > but was able to seal them (for test purposes) with duct tape but I had to work > at it, ie, clean the surface around the cap with a solvent then apply liberal > duct tape very carefully. > > After getting the caps sealed I was still getting a slow drop in my water > manometer from a starting point of about 25", and all the areas around the end > plate were not leaking. So even tho I have QB wings/tanks I decided to check all > the rivets and seams. On one tank I found two leaking baffle rivets, one in > the top and one on the bottom. They would "bubble" quite noticeably, and after > sealing with my beloved duct tape no more bubbles and the manometer held its > level for several days (varying of course with temperature and baro pressure). > > The factory suggested using Loctite or Permatex thread locker, penetrating > grade (green color). The fluid wicks into the leak and seals it, they said. I > did this and sure enough, no leaks, either top or bottom. But I'm still a little > worried about how permanent this solution is. > > Harold Kovac, I sure would be interested to hear more about how you drilled > those 5 rivets out. Were they hard to remove since they were imbeded in cured > Proseal, and > did you have any concerns about getting debris (sp) inside your tank? Were > they pop rivets or solid ones? > > John Von Dohlen > Canopy > >