Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:13 AM - Elevator skin to spar riveting (Rick Smith)
2. 06:28 AM - Re: Accident at Deshler (ivo welch)
3. 08:28 AM - Re: Canopy bow (Andy Karmy)
4. 08:52 AM - Re: Riveting Right Elevator Spar to Skin Help. (Ross Mickey)
5. 09:12 AM - Overshooting (Boyd Butler)
6. 09:24 AM - Re: Canopy bow (Pitner, Timothy)
7. 10:18 AM - Re: Canopy bow (Andy Karmy)
8. 11:15 AM - Re: Overshooting (rv9@3rivers.net)
9. 01:33 PM - Re: No-Flaps - Was Overshooting (Andy Karmy)
10. 05:39 PM - Re: Riveting Right Elevator Spar to Skin Help. (Douglas A. Fischer)
11. 06:34 PM - Heated Pitot with Static (Douglas A. Fischer)
12. 10:26 PM - [ Barry Bruns ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
Message 1
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Subject: | Elevator skin to spar riveting |
11/03/2003 07:13:21
--> RV9-List message posted by: Rick Smith <ricks3@us.ibm.com>
Take a look at the photos on the Yahoo RV-9 list, just posted one of a very
simple bucking bar that makes riveting all of the skin to spar rivets a
snap. Its like a double headed hammer with one head made of wood that
ensures the other head remains oriented properly. The photo is in the Rick
Smiths' photos.
It is made of a piece of 1 x 2 steel channel filled with lead and a piece
of maybe 3/8 inch tubing. Thats just what was laying around when I needed
it. It worked so well that after doing the first elevator I used it to
rivet all of the skin to spar rivets, top and bottom on the second one
while the elevator was completely clecoed together. It seemed too risky to
open the skin enough to use a regular bar.
It took about an hour to make, but had it taken twice that long I feel it
would have been well worth it. No pop rivets (I hate em) and no dents on
the leading edges.
The key is to make the heads small enough to slip past the weldment.
Another local builder has it now but if you want to wait till he finishes I
could ship it out in a mailing tube.
Regards,
Rick Smith
Austin Tx
# 90714 QB going together
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Accident at Deshler |
--> RV9-List message posted by: ivo welch <ivo.welch@yale.edu>
from their website: Deshler Municipal Landing Strip Airport serves
Deshler and Wood County <http://www.ohwy.com/oh/y/y39173.htm> and is
owned by Village Of Deshler. The airport has more than one runway. The
longest is a turf runway extending 2480 feet. The facility is at an
elevation of 706 feet at a distance of about 2 miles from Deshler.
naturally, running off the end of a runway is always pilot error. a
go-around is cheap insurance. it is true, however, that RV-9As are
"floaters"---they are very slippery and like to fly. Usually, this is
extra safe, as it means you can make airports when an engine quits.
They also climb very easily, so the pilot could have easily taken off
again if there were no obstacles right at the end of the runway. so,
don't be discouraged building an RV-9A (unless you want to buy mine ;-) ).
/iaw
http://welch.som.yale.edu/n994ks/
Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
Well Bob,
I hate to be the one to tell you, but there is no easy way to
make them match. The "trick" is simply put one side of the
bow on the ground (on top of something to protect the paint)
and use your weight and push, pull, bend, lean-into, make it
fit. You bend it a bit, then put it back on the plane. Take it off
and bend some more, back to the plane. Takes a few days of
fussing with it.
You have to match up the front more or less (small differences
can be covered by the fiberglass joint strip). You also have to
worry about the rear of the frame being the right shape and
inside the fuselage outlines.
Keep at it and it will come together for you, just like the rest
of us that have gone before you!
- Andy Karmy
Seattle Wa (Sanding Glass again!)
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: Bobdeva@aol.com
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Bobdeva@aol.com
>
>Anyone have any tricks ways to bend the canopy bow to
make it conform to the
>roll bar? The bend radius is not close at all. I've tried a few
of my own
>with little success.
>
>Thanks, Bob Devaney
>
>
>_-
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Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Riveting Right Elevator Spar to Skin Help. |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
This is how we did it.
Place the skin side down on a backriveting plate with the rivet inserted in
the hole. Use a tapered bucking bar to get to the backside of the rivet.
Place your rivet gun as close to the skin as you can on the bucking bar.
Rivet.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
Inspection on Thursday
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Riveting Right Elevator Spar to Skin Help.
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> Any tricks or tips on how to rivet the elevator spar to the top portion of
the skin in this very tight place (I know afterward the bottom skin gets pop
rivets). Your help is appreciated in advance.
>
> Glenn in Tucson, Arizona
> -9A Empennage and slow build wings.
> DO NOT ARCHIVE.
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Boyd Butler" <linbb@worldnet.att.net>
Its amazing how one that wasn't in the aircraft can tell what happened, always
pilot error for running off the end of a runway. I don't really think that this
is the place to throw stones at someone's accident, leave that for the NTSB.
This should be for building not accident investigation.
Boyd Butler
Message 6
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Pitner, Timothy" <TPitner@flowcorp.com>
Ok Andy, I'll bite... why are you sanding glass again?
TIM PITNER
Technical Service
Flow International Corporation | www.flowcorp.com
23500 64th Ave. S. | Kent, WA 98032 | USA
tel: 253.813.3318 | fax: 253.813.3282 | tpitner@flowcorp.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy Karmy [mailto:andy@karmy.com]
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Canopy bow
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
Well Bob,
I hate to be the one to tell you, but there is no easy way to
make them match. The "trick" is simply put one side of the
bow on the ground (on top of something to protect the paint)
and use your weight and push, pull, bend, lean-into, make it
fit. You bend it a bit, then put it back on the plane. Take it off
and bend some more, back to the plane. Takes a few days of
fussing with it.
You have to match up the front more or less (small differences
can be covered by the fiberglass joint strip). You also have to
worry about the rear of the frame being the right shape and
inside the fuselage outlines.
Keep at it and it will come together for you, just like the rest
of us that have gone before you!
- Andy Karmy
Seattle Wa (Sanding Glass again!)
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: Bobdeva@aol.com
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Bobdeva@aol.com
>
>Anyone have any tricks ways to bend the canopy bow to
make it conform to the
>roll bar? The bend radius is not close at all. I've tried a few
of my own
>with little success.
>
>Thanks, Bob Devaney
>
>
>_-
======================================
=================================
>_->_-
======================================
==================================
Contributions
other
>_-
======================================
==================================
>_-
======================================
==================================
subscription
List.htm
rv9-list
rv9-list
report
>_-
======================================
==================================
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
It's painting time. I finally have a plan after flying 150 hours in
9 months.
I have removed all of the fiberglass parts and returned them to
the garage rendering my lovely RV9A un-flyable for now...
The plan is to paint the glass with AFS paint, polish the metal
and possibly do some graphics on the sides.
- Andy
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Pitner, Timothy"
<TPitner@flowcorp.com>
>
>Ok Andy, I'll bite... why are you sanding glass again?
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Overshooting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: rv9@3rivers.net
I agree with you, Boyd. We shouldn't be saying what happened if we weren't
there. I don't know anything about the accident, but it brings up a comment:
If you land a 9 without flaps, be prepared to hold the nose very high in ground
effect, and sail a lot further down the runway than you expect. You can easily
compound the problem by coming over the fence too fast.....like anything above
70 mph. Full flaps and slow, and it still may take you a bit to get used to
how the 9er wants to keep flying.
And, man, is it fun!
Gary
Quoting Boyd Butler <linbb@worldnet.att.net>:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Boyd Butler" <linbb@worldnet.att.net>
>
> Its amazing how one that wasn't in the aircraft can tell what happened,
> always pilot error for running off the end of a
runway. .......................
> .........etc.
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: No-Flaps - Was Overshooting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
I too try the no-flap landings now and then just to ensure that
I can do them when needed. What is hard for me to get used
to is that on base you have the nose so high to get it slowed
to 70 in the first place that you can't hardly see the runway
anymore. If you go any faster there is no descent rate...
Slips work nice in this situation also.
- Andy (145hrs of Smiles and fun flying)
---------- Original Message
----------------------------------
From: rv9@3rivers.net
>--> RV9-List message posted by: rv9@3rivers.net
>
>
>I agree with you, Boyd. We shouldn't be saying what
happened if we weren't
>there. I don't know anything about the accident, but it
brings up a comment:
>
>If you land a 9 without flaps, be prepared to hold the nose
very high in ground
>effect, and sail a lot further down the runway than you
expect. You can easily
>compound the problem by coming over the fence too
fast.....like anything above
>70 mph. Full flaps and slow, and it still may take you a bit to
get used to
>how the 9er wants to keep flying.
>
>And, man, is it fun!
>
>Gary
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Riveting Right Elevator Spar to Skin Help. |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
I clamped the upper skin vertically like the photos in the directions. I
had all the stiffeners riveted in place already (upper and lower). I then
folded down the lower skin 90 deg and clecoed it to the table. This kept me
from needing to hold the skin open while riveting. I was able to use a
small bucking bar with the clearance. The lower I riveted with solid 426-3s
where I could reach on the ends and through the hinge openings. The rest I
pop-riveted per the instructions. If people want look at the pop rivets and
make comments - they can lay on their backs under the tail all they want!
Not me!
Doug Fischer
Jenison, MI
#90706 (614EN reserved) - just about to order wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Riveting Right Elevator Spar to Skin Help.
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> Any tricks or tips on how to rivet the elevator spar to the top portion of
the skin in this very tight place (I know afterward the bottom skin gets pop
rivets). Your help is appreciated in advance.
>
> Glenn in Tucson, Arizona
> -9A Empennage and slow build wings.
> DO NOT ARCHIVE.
>
>
Message 11
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"RV-9 Matronics List" <rv9-list@matronics.com>
Subject: | Heated Pitot with Static |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
Are there any sources to get an AN5814-1 12v Heated Pitot other than Aircraft Spruce?
It is criminally expensive at $495 ( I have a 2001-2002 Spruce catalog
that shows it for $208 - an amazing 150% increase in two years!!!). It would
be nice to have an alternate source unless they're all made by the same company.
Doug Fischer
90706
Message 12
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Subject: | [ Barry Bruns ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Barry Bruns <BBruns6831@aol.com>
Subject: Wing jig
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/BBruns6831@aol.com.11.03.2003/index.html
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