Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:27 AM - List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? (Matt Dralle)
2. 04:27 AM - Van Alternators (James R. Render)
3. 04:29 AM - Canopy Lock (James R. Render)
4. 06:37 AM - Re: Return Fuel Lines (Larry PERRYMAN)
5. 07:07 AM - Re: No-Flaps - Was Overshooting (fcs@jlc.net)
6. 07:46 AM - Re: Return Fuel Lines (Victor Cordero)
7. 08:21 AM - Re: Return Fuel Lines (Larry PERRYMAN)
8. 08:27 AM - Changes in Drawing 29 (Leland)
9. 10:09 AM - Re: No-Flaps - Was Overshooting (Andy Karmy)
10. 10:32 AM - deburring skin edges (Paul Eastham)
11. 10:46 AM - Re: Van Alternators (Fred & Ester New)
12. 11:05 AM - Re: deburring skin edges (Mike Hoover)
13. 12:06 PM - Re: Return Fuel Lines (Dean)
14. 12:11 PM - Dynon pressure setting (Steve Sampson)
15. 12:44 PM - Re: fuselage assembly sequence (Dean)
16. 01:24 PM - Floats or Capacitance? (Kevin Behrent)
17. 02:06 PM - Re: Floats or Capacitance? (Richard Tasker)
18. 04:21 PM - Re: deburring skin edges (Richard Scott)
19. 05:59 PM - Re: deburring skin edges (Curt Hoffman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
The List Fund Raiser is going well so far this year and I wanted to say
"Thank You" to everyone that has made a Contribution already this year!
Though the generous support of Andy Gold and the Builders Bookstore (
http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I'm able to offer some truly awesome gifts
with qualifying Contributions this year. There's quite a line up and a
rather diverse set of options - certainly something for every taste and
personality. Here's a list of this year's fine options:
* List Archive CD
* Aircraft Builder's Log
* Pilot Flashlight System
* Pro Pilot Logbook
* FAR/AIM on CD
* Jeppesen Flight Bag
* Aviation History Book
* Techstar Flight Computer
Please support your Email List Community AND pick up a really slick Gift at
the same time! The SSL Secure Contribution web site can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Once again, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously supported
the continued operation and upgrade of the Lists Services here on the
Matronics servers!!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 2
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "James R. Render" <jimpattr@worldnet.att.net>
I purchased a thirty five amp alternator from Van for my RV-9A. It
lasted sixteen hours before failing. I called Tom Green and he sent me
a replacement alternator and I returned the failed alternator. The
replacement alternator lasted seven tenths of an hour. I took the
alternator to a repair shop. They found three bolts holding the
alternator together were hand tight only. One of the diodes had become
unsoldered. The connection was resolder and I have used this alternator
about thirty hours. I wrote Tom Green about this episode and asked for
a labor refund, but he never acknowledged.
My feelings are that I got two junk rebuilt alternators.
Jim Render
Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "James R. Render" <jimpattr@worldnet.att.net>
I installed one of the locks that I purchased from Van on my sliding
canopy. It worked fine for a few times and then became jammed. I had
to have the lock picked to get my canopy open. I no longer use the lock.
Jim Render
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Return Fuel Lines |
11/05/2003 03:37:19 PM,
Serialize complete at 11/05/2003 03:37:19 PM
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
Ted,
Look a the nose rib. There is a 3/8 inch forming hole about 3 inched back
from the front and about 2 inches up from the bottom. I used that hole to
run the return line at least back into the next fuel bay to allow the hot
fuel to mix with the cool fuel in the tank. Drill a new hole in the end
rib about in line with the hole and install the bulkhead fitting and run
your return line back into the tank. Put a snap bushing in the hole to
cushion the line and go for it. On the tank you are working on, you can
run it back to the other end of the tank to give more time to mix with the
cooler fuel but one bay will work also. At least it does with my RV-9A and
Eggenfellner Subaru setup that used a 5/16 return line. If you need a 3/8
return line, you may need to open the holes up for the larger snap
bushings.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Voice Supervisor
ATOFINA Petrochemicals Inc.
(281) 227-5550
"Ted Strand" <tstrand@strandcentral.com>
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
11/04/2003 10:39 PM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
cc:
Subject: RV9-List: Return Fuel Lines
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ted Strand" <tstrand@strandcentral.com>
Hello,
I am planning to put in return fuel lines in case my engine supports
fuel injection. I have seen that some people have place the return line
in the tank access plate, but I would prefer to have it mounted directly
to the rib. I was wondering if any of you have done this, and if you
can give me a good spot for locating it? One of my tanks is already
sealed, so I will need to work through the access plate for it, but the
second tank is open. I figure the open tank will allow me to get my
procedure (and measurements) correct.
Thanks in advance
-Ted Strand-
N371N Reserved
Clearwater, FL
Working on Tanks
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: No-Flaps - Was Overshooting |
PRIORITY_NO_NAME
--> RV9-List message posted by: "fcs@jlc.net" <fcs@jlc.net>
I'll second that. It takes a gorrilla foot to get a good slip out of the
9. I just assume this is due to that big shark fin rudder and tiny amount
of leverage created by the relatively short control horn.
Gary N.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Return Fuel Lines |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Victor Cordero <vcordero@juno.com>
Guys,
When you run the return fuel Lines through the wing tanks, are the snap bushings
affected by the fuel in any why?? Will they last forever inside the fuel tanks?
thx,
Victor Cordero
RV9A, Long Island, NY
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Return Fuel Lines |
11/05/2003 05:21:03 PM,
Serialize complete at 11/05/2003 05:21:03 PM
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
Victor,
Vans calls fro them on the capacitance sender installation. I have not
seen any deterioration so far.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N194DL
Victor Cordero <vcordero@juno.com>
Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
11/05/2003 09:45 AM
Please respond to rv9-list
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Return Fuel Lines
--> RV9-List message posted by: Victor Cordero <vcordero@juno.com>
Guys,
When you run the return fuel Lines through the wing tanks, are the snap
bushings affected by the fuel in any why?? Will they last forever inside
the fuel tanks?
thx,
Victor Cordero
RV9A, Long Island, NY
Message 8
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| Subject: | Changes in Drawing 29 |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
I guess I have an old set of plans. My copy of Drawing 29 does not show
how to attach the lap belts. A newer plan version shows cartoons in zone
G7 and D10 for fabricating a spacer/bushing of AT6-058x5/16 hard tubing
to fit between the AN4 bolts and the 5/16" hole in the seat belts. Does
anybody's plans show attachment of the shoulder harnesses? I assume the
mounting is similar but would like to be sure.
Leland
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: No-Flaps - Was Overshooting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
I agree also, a Super cub it ain't! I never said it was easy, just
that it will slip. Seems like I used to hear that it wouldn't from
some of the early reports.
With the size of the rudder Imagine if the pressures were
lighter. You're humming along in the yellow arc cruise hit the
rudder and peel your face off the canopy! :)
Makes me want to go out and do some forward slip to landing
aproaches!
- Andy
>--> RV9-List message posted by: rv9@3rivers.net
>
>
>Hi, Andy. Interesting you mention that slips work well in the
9. This is the
>only point I have differed with you on. I felt like the 9 didn't
slip as well
>as what I've been used to......mostly the Cygnet, RV4, and my
"almost an
>Ultralight" N3 Pup. Maybe it is just what a person is used to.
I felt the 9
>took LOTS of rudder pressure to slip, and that it wasn't all
that effective in
>giving a good sink rate.
Message 10
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| Subject: | deburring skin edges |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
Are you guys spending a lot of time deburring the edges of skins? I
have been hitting them with the double-edge debur tool and an
electric-drill-mounted small scotchbrite wheel, but there is still
some roughness on the face of the cuts. (The burr is off though.) A
pass in the bench-grinder-mounted scotchbrite would smooth it out, I
bet, but this seems hard to control especially on thin skins like the
rudder. If you lost control of it you might be able to do a lot of
damage.
A roloc disc in the die grinder seems like it might work too but I am
wondering if I should even bother...?
Thanks,
Paul
Message 11
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Fred & Ester New" <fred.new@delfi.ee>
I bought a rebuilt alternator for my Prelude once and the nut holding the
pulley to the shaft wasn't tightened. Driving downtown Portland things came
apart. Unfortunately, I didn't realize that a spacer behind the pulley also
fell off. A street sweeper probably got it. I had to buy a whole used
alternator from a junkyard just to get that spacer. I guess we just can't
trust rebuilts. New alternators might suffer the same problem, though.
Fred New
-9A wannabuild, waiting for my stocks to climb
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James R. Render
Subject: RV9-List: Van Alternators
--> RV9-List message posted by: "James R. Render"
<jimpattr@worldnet.att.net>
I purchased a thirty five amp alternator from Van for my RV-9A. It
lasted sixteen hours before failing. I called Tom Green and he sent me
a replacement alternator and I returned the failed alternator. The
replacement alternator lasted seven tenths of an hour. I took the
alternator to a repair shop. They found three bolts holding the
alternator together were hand tight only. One of the diodes had become
unsoldered. The connection was resolder and I have used this alternator
about thirty hours. I wrote Tom Green about this episode and asked for
a labor refund, but he never acknowledged.
My feelings are that I got two junk rebuilt alternators.
Jim Render
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover@sc.rr.com>
Paul,
After I deburred the edges with the debur tool, I run down the edge with a
2" scotchbrite disk on a die grinder. The disk eventually got a groove in it
so I run the edge in the groove. Smooths them out pretty good. Hope this
helps.
Regards,
Mike
SC
90709 riveting wing ribs to spars
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: deburring skin edges
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
> Are you guys spending a lot of time deburring the edges of skins? I
> have been hitting them with the double-edge debur tool and an
> electric-drill-mounted small scotchbrite wheel, but there is still
> some roughness on the face of the cuts. (The burr is off though.) A
> pass in the bench-grinder-mounted scotchbrite would smooth it out, I
> bet, but this seems hard to control especially on thin skins like the
> rudder. If you lost control of it you might be able to do a lot of
> damage.
>
> A roloc disc in the die grinder seems like it might work too but I am
> wondering if I should even bother...?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Return Fuel Lines |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Ted
I installed 3/8 straight fuel return line fittings in the upper rear corner
of the inboard fuel tank ribs which Van's said would be a good location.
Unfortunately, when I started to assemble the fuselage, I realized that the
fitting was right in line with the upper forward bar of the center section
spar. I am now replacing the straight fittings with 45 degree angled
fittings that are turned down 45 to 50 degrees from the horizontal. If you
use this location, you will also need to carefully consider where the 3/8
line will enter the fuselage as the feed and vent line holes are already
located by pre punched pilot holes in the F-9101 Gear Attach Web. There is
far less area to work with on the 9A than there is on the 6A or 7A. I am
using the Andair 3/8 duplex valve and I did not extend the return line
beyond the end rib (too late now).
Dean Van Winkle
Fuselage/Finish
13B NA Rotary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Strand" <tstrand@strandcentral.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Return Fuel Lines
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Ted Strand" <tstrand@strandcentral.com>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I am planning to put in return fuel lines in case my engine supports
> fuel injection. I have seen that some people have place the return line
> in the tank access plate, but I would prefer to have it mounted directly
> to the rib. I was wondering if any of you have done this, and if you
> can give me a good spot for locating it? One of my tanks is already
> sealed, so I will need to work through the access plate for it, but the
> second tank is open. I figure the open tank will allow me to get my
> procedure (and measurements) correct.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> -Ted Strand-
> N371N Reserved
> Clearwater, FL
> Working on Tanks
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Dynon pressure setting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
For those of you already flying with a Dynon. How do you change the pressure
setting and how practical is it?
Thanks, Steve.
#90360
UK
---
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: fuselage assembly sequence |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
John
You will recall that the aft line of holes in the bottom tailcone skin to
center fuselage joint was drilled from the center fuselage pattern and the
tailcone/center fuselage/F-706 bulkhead joint should have been match drilled
at the same time. As much as EVERYONE hates to do it, the center fuselage
and tailcone must now be pulled back apart for the deburring and dimpling of
the parts. The F-706 bulkhead assembly is loose, so the skins as well as the
bulkhead can readily be dimpled with your dimpler/rivet squeezer. Many
others have stated that the guidance is lacking in the fuselage area. Good
luck. One other note, I found that the larger bottom skin area in the
forward tailcone bay had a tendency to oilcan, so I installed a piece of
leftover J-stringer through the middle of the area between the F-706 and
F707 bulkheads while I had easy access.
Dean Van Winkle
Fuselage/Finish
90095
----- Original Message -----
From: <kerrjohna@comcast.net>
Subject: RV9-List: fuselage assembly sequence
> --> RV9-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
> A little help will be appreciated. Have just reached the point in the
manual of removing the forward side skins for dimpling and priming. In
considering the process, there seems to be no quidance on the order of
re-assembly and assembly of the side skins, bottoms skins, etc.
>
> the manual suggests during the final prep of the tail cone "not" to dimple
the forward two rows of holes on the rear bottom skin. How do you get to
them to dimple now?
>
> where did I go wrong
>
> John Kerr
> Utah
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Floats or Capacitance? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent <kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
It's time to for me to decide whether to use floats or capacitance fuel
sending units. Most of the fuel guages and engine monitors that I'm
looking at support both. So, what's best if either could be used?
I'm concerned about using capactitance because they have to be built
into the tanks. Not easily accessible should they fail so it leaves me
wondering about how long they last and would I have to tear my tanks
apart to fix/replace.
I'm not thrilled about floats either. I hear they are not very accurate,
cumbersome, hard to adjust, but at least accessible.
So, what's the consensus out there?
Kevin Behrent
90126 - Working on wings
kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com
Pierce County Thun Field, Hangar #6
Puyallup, WA
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
A capacitance system has no moving parts - just a couple sheets of
aluminum and a few screws and wires. If you build it properly then it
should last as long as the plane.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage
Kevin Behrent wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent <kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
>
>It's time to for me to decide whether to use floats or capacitance fuel
>sending units. Most of the fuel guages and engine monitors that I'm
>looking at support both. So, what's best if either could be used?
>
>I'm concerned about using capactitance because they have to be built
>into the tanks. Not easily accessible should they fail so it leaves me
>wondering about how long they last and would I have to tear my tanks
>apart to fix/replace.
>
>I'm not thrilled about floats either. I hear they are not very accurate,
>cumbersome, hard to adjust, but at least accessible.
>
>So, what's the consensus out there?
>
>Kevin Behrent
>90126 - Working on wings
>kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com
>Pierce County Thun Field, Hangar #6
>Puyallup, WA
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Paul,
I run the skin edges against my bench-grinder-mounted Scotchbrite wheel,
holding the skin almost parallel to the direction of rotation. This makes
it easier to control. I say "almost parallel" because if it is slightly
diagonal it doesn't put a groove in the wheel. No problem so far.
Mine, however, is the voice of INexperience, as I have only done the HS &
VS so far, so take my suggestion with a grain of salt.
Richard Scott
Emp.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: deburring skin edges |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
I usually just run a quick few swipes with a fine emery cloth over the
edges. I find this easier than a wheel and smoother than a deburring tool.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
Quick build fuselage now in basement
Piper Cherokee N5320W
1974 TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
Subject: RV9-List: deburring skin edges
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
> Are you guys spending a lot of time deburring the edges of skins? I
> have been hitting them with the double-edge debur tool and an
> electric-drill-mounted small scotchbrite wheel, but there is still
> some roughness on the face of the cuts. (The burr is off though.) A
> pass in the bench-grinder-mounted scotchbrite would smooth it out, I
> bet, but this seems hard to control especially on thin skins like the
> rudder. If you lost control of it you might be able to do a lot of
> damage.
>
> A roloc disc in the die grinder seems like it might work too but I am
> wondering if I should even bother...?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>
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