Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:18 AM - WLAS... (Matt Dralle)
2. 07:02 AM - My thoughts on ProSeal (Matthew Brandes)
3. 07:02 AM - Re: LED Cabin light? (Clay R)
4. 10:10 AM - Re: Floats or Capacitance? (Harold Kovac)
5. 10:37 AM - Re: My thoughts on ProSeal (rv9@3rivers.net)
6. 03:16 PM - Aluminum Air Vents (Fabian Lefler)
7. 05:18 PM - Re: LED Cabin light? (hollandm)
8. 05:23 PM - Re: Floats or Capacitance? (Dale Larsen)
9. 05:34 PM - Re: Floats or Capacitance? (JohnCClarkVA@cs.com)
Message 1
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--> RV9-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
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Message 2
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| Subject: | My thoughts on ProSeal |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Matthew Brandes <mbrandes@irr.com>
This past weekend I was able to complete most of the prosealing process on
my left fuel tank. (Inboard rib and baffle left) Here are some ramblings
about the process:
1) Be Prepared. Have everything you need handy... and think about what
you'll need ahead of time. Don't jump into it without some planning. :-)
2) The smell of MEK is worse than anything else. Send the wife and kids
away for the weekend. Keep the pets away.. I think I got my cat high on the
MEK. :-)
3) Mask off the tank! Doing this only takes a short time and results in a
very clean tank. I put strips of 2.5" masking tape on each side of the rib
leaving enough gap for proseal to contact the skin. After doing 3 or 4
ribs, I went back and peeled it off. Cleanup is a snap.
4)Mixing cups. Paper and plastic don't cut it in my opinion. Proseal is
thick stuff. WalMart has packs of 2 small tupperware bowls for .63 cents.
Perfect for mixing as well as soaking your rivets in the MEK.
5) If you have a digital scale.. use the grams scale. I was mixing 30 grams
to 3 grams. Was enough to do 2 to 3 ribs.
6) MEK does not disintegrate latex gloves as I read somewhere. So buy
yourself a box or two. You'll need 'em.
7) Keep a tub of MEK handy to drop your gunky cleco's in. They clean up
pretty easy when your done.
8) You can successfully back-rivet the stiffeners as the manual suggests. I
used the long back-rivet set I ordered for the wing skins. You could also
use the back-rivet set that comes with the tool kit.
All that said.. the process wasn't that bad. My hands are pretty sore this
morning. I'm very happy with the results. I'll be happier when I leak test
it and it passes. I need to get the tank internals installed and then I'll
close it up.
Matthew
RV-9A Wings/Tanks
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com>
#90569
PS - Keep your hair away from your cup-o-proseal.
Message
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1264" name=GENERATOR>
This past weekend I was able to complete most of
the prosealing process on my left fuel tank. (Inboard rib and baffle
left) Here are some ramblings about the process:
1) Be Prepared. Have everything you need
handy... and think about what you'll need ahead of time. Don't jump into
it without some planning. :-)
2) The smell of MEK is worse than anything
else. Send the wife and kids away for the weekend. Keep the pets
away.. I think I got my cat high on the MEK. :-)
3) Mask off the tank! Doing this only takes a
short time and results in a very clean tank. I put strips of 2.5" masking
tape on each side of the rib leaving enough gap for proseal to contact the
skin. After doing 3 or 4 ribs, I went back and peeled it off.
Cleanup is a snap.
4)Mixing cups. Paper and plastic don't cut it
in my opinion. Proseal is thick stuff. WalMart has packs of 2 small
tupperware bowls for .63 cents. Perfect for mixing as well as soaking your
rivets in the MEK.
5) If you have a digital scale.. use the grams
scale. I was mixing 30 grams to 3 grams. Was enough to do 2 to 3
ribs.
6) MEK does not disintegrate latex gloves as I read
somewhere. So buy yourself a box or two. You'll need
'em.
7) Keep a tub of MEK handy to drop your gunky
cleco's in. They clean up pretty easy when your done.
8) You can successfully back-rivet the stiffeners
as the manual suggests. I used the long back-rivet set I ordered for the
wing skins. You could also use the back-rivet set that comes with the tool
kit.
All that said.. the process wasn't that bad.
My hands are pretty sore this morning. I'm very happy with the
results. I'll be happier when I leak test it and it passes. I need
to get the tank internals installed and then I'll close it up.
Matthew
RV-9A Wings/Tanks
<A
href="http://www.n523rv.com">www.n523rv.com
#90569
PS - Keep your hair away from your cup-o-proseal.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: LED Cabin light? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Clay R <clayr_55@yahoo.com>
See the 4 LED cluster on this page:
http://www.glowire.com/Lazer%20LEDs.htm
They are ready to wire into a 12v source, are
available in white and are very bright.
I also bought an aqua glowstrip for my glareshield
light - $20
--Clay
--- hollandm <hollandm@pacbell.net> wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "hollandm"
> <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> Anyone know a source for an LED bright enough to use
> as a cabin/baggage light? Would consider adapting a
> bicycle or camping light.
>
> Thanks
>
>
__________________________________
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Harold Kovac" <kayce@sysmatrix.net>
I have a question.
I have the cap tanks, but would rather use analog gauges, is there a way to
accomplish this?
Harold Kovac, Wings nearing completion . about to order fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Floats or Capacitance?
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
>
> Just an opinion:
>
> Floats
> Pros: Inexpensive, simple
> Cons: Moving parts (you will eventually have to replace them)
> Linearity varies with tank geometry
>
> Capacitance
> Pros: No moving parts (you'll probably never have to remove the tank to
> fix/replace a sensor)
> Accurate-you can calibrate the linearity
> Cons: Expensive (EI gauge is $450), slight inaccurices with AVgas versus
> MOgas
> Added complexity
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: My thoughts on ProSeal |
--> RV9-List message posted by: rv9@3rivers.net
Matthew.....just a couple comments on your ramblings:
Quoting Matthew Brandes <mbrandes@irr.com>:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Matthew Brandes <mbrandes@irr.com>
>
> This past weekend I was able to complete most of the prosealing process on
> my left fuel tank. (Inboard rib and baffle left) Here are some ramblings
> about the process:
Snip......
> 4)Mixing cups. Paper and plastic don't cut it in my opinion. Proseal is
> thick stuff. WalMart has packs of 2 small tupperware bowls for .63 cents.
> Perfect for mixing as well as soaking your rivets in the MEK.
You don't need cups at all. I just used cereal box cardboard. Use it like a
palette. Proseal is thick enough to not run off.
> 6) MEK does not disintegrate latex gloves as I read somewhere. So buy
> yourself a box or two. You'll need 'em.
Careful. Some surgical type gloves Definately Do NOT hold up to MEK. Others
hold up fine. Nitrile gloves are good. I have not found anything that will go
through them.
Gary
Message 6
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<rv9-list@matronics.com>, <rv8-list@matronics.com>,
<rv10-list@matronics.com>, <rv7-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Aluminum Air Vents |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef@bellsouth.net>
If you didn't get a chance to visit Oshkosh this year, and stop by the Van's Aircraft
tent, you probably missed meeting and talking to Jeff Mears of Airkit,
LLC. Jeff was at Oshkosh introducing his brand new set of full size aluminum
vents, which are a direct replacement to the plastic ones Van sells.
We just received a set of Jeff?s vents for our own RV-9A, and we are very impressed
with the quality, looks and performance of the vents. We want everyone on
the list to know that we paid the full price for our vents (call Jeff and ask).
Our main motive for posting this e-mail is, strictly, as a response to the
high number of calls we have received asking for an alternative to Van's plastic
vents. Until now, we didn?t know of one. All of the available aluminum
vents out there are only sold with a clear finish, and are much smaller in size
and volume of air they provide.
If you want to see a side by side comparison of the plastic vs. aluminum vents, see this special webpage we've created at http://www.affordablepanels.com/Airvents.html We are planning to sell these vents on a "Pass-Thru" basis to our customers to save them a bit on shipping charges when ordered with a Modular Panel, but if you are interested on a set of these vents, you can order them directly from Jeff by visiting his website at http://www.bravoavtech.com/airkit/ The vents are pricey, but compared to what other aviation catalog companies are charging for the tiny ones, these are an excellent deal.
Best Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: LED Cabin light? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Thanks for the suggestion, I've ordered a couple, one the white quad as a
cabin light I'll mount on the F706 bulkhead facing forward and the other a
red 3light spread on the left under F721B positioned to light up my backup
flight instruments. I was also considering adapting a bicycle LED headlamp
as a cabin light and a tail light for the night instrument flood. They
would have required resistors to hard wire them to the ship power but the
overall cost is about the same if not better than buying these specialized
LED's.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay R" <clayr_55@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: LED Cabin light?
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Clay R <clayr_55@yahoo.com>
>
> See the 4 LED cluster on this page:
> http://www.glowire.com/Lazer%20LEDs.htm
>
> They are ready to wire into a 12v source, are
> available in white and are very bright.
>
> I also bought an aqua glowstrip for my glareshield
> light - $20
> --Clay
>
> --- hollandm <hollandm@pacbell.net> wrote:
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "hollandm"
> > <hollandm@pacbell.net>
> >
> > Anyone know a source for an LED bright enough to use
> > as a cabin/baggage light? Would consider adapting a
> > bicycle or camping light.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
Harold,
Van's dosen't make it clear that the capacitve tank plates will only work
with the $400 EI gauge (or similar).
You may be able to use the capacitive converters for the EI gauge ($45).
They are just a 555 timer that converts capacitance to frequency. Filtered,
it may work with the analog gauges, haven't tried it though. They will not
be linear. Or, you could design your own capacitance to voltage converter.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harold Kovac" <kayce@sysmatrix.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Floats or Capacitance?
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Harold Kovac" <kayce@sysmatrix.net>
>
> I have a question.
> I have the cap tanks, but would rather use analog gauges, is there a way
to
> accomplish this?
> Harold Kovac, Wings nearing completion . about to order fuse
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Floats or Capacitance?
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Floats or Capacitance? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: JohnCClarkVA@cs.com
Another capacitance option is to go with the EIS 4000?, then two converters
at $95 a pop will allow the fuel to be displayed on the EIS screen. Have not
tried it but would like to hear if anybody has.
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