Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:48 AM - Electrical Documentation (Leland)
2. 11:44 AM - Re: Electrical Documentation (Jones)
3. 01:58 PM - Re: RV-List: Seat heat....the finale ; (Blanton Fortson)
4. 07:54 PM - F-989 Elevator pushrod (Richard E. Tasker)
5. 08:23 PM - Elevator Tube (Terrence Gardner)
6. 09:19 PM - Re: Fuselage tail bottom skin (Dean)
7. 09:33 PM - Re: Elevator Tube (Dean)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Electrical Documentation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
I am documenting my electrical wiring with drawing freeware from a
company named ExpressPCB. The software is well documented, easy to learn
and use, and works well. It can be downloaded from
http://www.expresspcb.com/ . Downloading gives you two programs, the
ExpressSCH is the one you need for drawing schematics.
Leland
Fitting the Cowling
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical Documentation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jones" <esnj@granbury.com>
You're right, Leland. I've used that software with Windows 95 and it works
well. They also have user manuals that you can download or view on screen.
Dick Jones 90062
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leland" <Federigo@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Electrical Documentation
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
>
> I am documenting my electrical wiring with drawing freeware from a
> company named ExpressPCB. The software is well documented, easy to learn
> and use, and works well. It can be downloaded from
> http://www.expresspcb.com/ . Downloading gives you two programs, the
> ExpressSCH is the one you need for drawing schematics.
> Leland
> Fitting the Cowling
>
>
Message 3
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)
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Seat heat....the finale ; |
)
--> RV9-List message posted by: Blanton Fortson <blanton@alaska.net>
Heated seats can be a good thing.
The Gerbings stuff works well, too.
www.gerbings.com.
I was driving a Volvo Cross Country wagon once in the winter here in
Alaska when I noticed a wisp of smoke issuing forth from between my
legs. The smoke rapidly began to increase. I bailed out and watched the
car turn into a bonfire within two minutes. It seems as if the foam in
the leather upholstered Volvo seat cushions was not exactly
fire-retardant. Ouch. Car totaled. If that had happened in an airplane
I'd be dead.
12v Heated seats are a high amperage deal. Plenty of energy ignite
flameable materials if there is a short or other problem. Before I
installed a seat heater in an airplane I'd extensively torch test all
related materials (cushions, uphostery, etc.)
While I'm on the subject of fire, I'll share with you one of my
personal risk management strategies. For airplane use I wear only
natural fibers, particularly next to my skin. That means Duofold
(cotton/wool) longjohns or silk underwea, wool pants are best but
cotton jeans will do. NO poly next to skin. In an otherwise survivable
flash flash fire poly can melt to your skin causing a sort of burn
which you may not recover from.
B.
On Jan 25, 2004, at 12:01 PM, Norman Hunger wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman Hunger" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
>> Thanks to all who have pointed me to places to find seat heat.
>>
>> I have sent out requests for quotes as not many places actually
>> displayed pricing for their seat heat, some went as far as to state
>> that
>> only their rep's are allowed to install and hence those are the only
>> folks they will sell to. same held true for heating pads from Car
>> dealerships.
>
> In my experience, the car dealerships do not do this work. They farm
> it out.
> Ask where they get their upholstery work done. Better yet, use the
> yellow
> pages and start phoning around. Look up "Auto Upholstery". One more
> thing,
> don't tell them you are building an airplane as many shops have a
> liability
> fear. Tell them you are building a street rod. It should not take very
> long
> to find some one in your area who will sell you a kit. Took me less
> than ten
> minutes.
>
> Norman Hunger
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | F-989 Elevator pushrod |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I have started to assemble the F-989 (forward elevator pushrod) and have
discovered that it will not go through the bulkhead holes between the
stick assembly and the central bellcrank. That is, when assembled it is
too long to slide into position. If you slide it in from the rear, it
hits the aft bulkhead before it is far enough forward to slide it
through. It will (barely) slide in if I leave off one end assembly and
remove the ball end from the other.
Is this the proper way to install it - i.e. build it in place? It seems
rather flaky that I cannot assemble it outside and then slide it into
place, but if that is the approved (and only) way to do it, then so be it.
Comments?
Dick Tasker, 90573
Finishing the fuselage (when the temperature goes above 60 in the
basement anyway)
Message 5
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Terrence Gardner" <ttandt@mindspring.com>
Richard,
I found the same to be true. It is pretty ridiculous they would have you
make the developed length so precise and then have to tear it apart to
install. Sounds like something the FAA would do, measure it with a
micrometer, mark it with a grease pencil, and cut it with an axe.
Terry Gardner
RV9A Finishing/Electrical/Avionics
Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage tail bottom skin |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Tom
I believe that you are referring to the area just forward of the F-710
bulkhead where the forward edge of the .040 tail bottom skin ends and leaves
a .040 gap that transitions to .000 at the next rivet forward in the J
stiffener. If that is correct, I have the very same thing and the slight
angular deviation in the J stiffener flange is nothing to be concerned
about. Your assembly order is correct. Please let me know if I am looking at
the wrong area.
Dean Van Winkle
Retired Aero Engr
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "The Strong's" <tstrong@ida.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Fuselage tail bottom skin
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "The Strong's" <tstrong@ida.net>
>
> What is the order for the lower J stiffener, tail bottom skin and aft side
> skin? I have the J stiffner next to the Bulkhead then the Tail bottom
skin
> and then the aft side skin. That seems the logical way but it leaves a
> small step as the J stiffner goes forward from the tail bottom skin to the
> aft side skin.
>
> Thanks, Tom
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Tube |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Richard and Terry
There were comments on this same thread quite some time ago, so I was
forewarned. I slipped the tube assembly in place as I was doing the final
joining of the tailcone and center fuselage. I didn't find it to be in the
way of any the final riveting in that area.
Best Regards
Dean Van Winkle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terrence Gardner" <ttandt@mindspring.com>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator Tube
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Terrence Gardner" <ttandt@mindspring.com>
>
> Richard,
> I found the same to be true. It is pretty ridiculous they would have you
> make the developed length so precise and then have to tear it apart to
> install. Sounds like something the FAA would do, measure it with a
> micrometer, mark it with a grease pencil, and cut it with an axe.
>
>
> Terry Gardner
> RV9A Finishing/Electrical/Avionics
>
> Do not archive
>
>
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