Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:18 AM - Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod (Jerry Calvert)
2. 05:39 AM - Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod (Tim Coldenhoff)
3. 07:09 AM - Elevator Pushrods (Terrence Gardner)
4. 07:47 AM - roll bar, slider etc (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
5. 07:54 AM - Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod (fcs@jlc.net)
6. 07:59 AM - Re: roll bar, slider etc (fcs@jlc.net)
7. 08:51 AM - Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod (Larry PERRYMAN)
8. 10:10 AM - Re: roll bar, slider etc (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
9. 08:46 PM - Bolt torques (Dean Psiropoulos)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
Had the same problem on my RV6. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the
bulkhead behind the baggage bulk head. The too long tube goes through the
hole instead of stopping when it hits the bulk head.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond ok
RV6
N296JC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Subject: RV9-List: F-989 Elevator pushrod
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
<retasker@optonline.net>
>
> I have started to assemble the F-989 (forward elevator pushrod) and have
> discovered that it will not go through the bulkhead holes between the
> stick assembly and the central bellcrank. That is, when assembled it is
> too long to slide into position. If you slide it in from the rear, it
> hits the aft bulkhead before it is far enough forward to slide it
> through. It will (barely) slide in if I leave off one end assembly and
> remove the ball end from the other.
>
> Is this the proper way to install it - i.e. build it in place? It seems
> rather flaky that I cannot assemble it outside and then slide it into
> place, but if that is the approved (and only) way to do it, then so be it.
>
> Comments?
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
> Finishing the fuselage (when the temperature goes above 60 in the
> basement anyway)
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Tim Coldenhoff <rv9a_000@deru.com>
Richard E. Tasker wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
> Is this the proper way to install it - i.e. build it in place? It seems
> rather flaky that I cannot assemble it outside and then slide it into
> place, but if that is the approved (and only) way to do it, then so be it.
>
> Comments?
I have a couple of suggestions before you install this
pushrod.
First, you might find it difficult (impossible?) to bolt
up the rod end bearing to the control stick weldment while
everything is mounted in the plane. It is tricky to get
both washers in if it is too tight. Instead, install this
rod end on the bench without the pushrod attached, then
assemble the pushrod in the plane later; it should be short
enough to drop in with one (or both) ends off.
Second, if you are installing an aileron trim servo, do
this now before the elevator pushrod is installed. Otherwise,
it will be nearly impossible to drill holes and tighten down
the screws to hold the servo in place. As it is, you will
probably need to run down to Sears and get a really short, or
an offset screwdriver anyway to fit between the seat ribs.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
www.deru.com/~rv9a
90338 - plumbing/electrical/finishing
Message 3
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| Subject: | Elevator Pushrods |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Terrence Gardner" <ttandt@mindspring.com>
Tim, You are absolutely correct!!!
Terry Gardner
RV9A Finishing
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | roll bar, slider etc |
--> RV9-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
the bottom plates of the roll bar rest about 3/16 inside of the outside skin, is
this more or less correct?
when I place the slider tracks at the recommended width the outside of the track
lines up perfectly with the the plates. This leaves the slider side bars about
1/8-3/16" inside the outside skin. I can form the side bars to be a uniform
distance inside and "follow" the longeron in that way. I am I conflicted or
is this what others have found?
John
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "fcs@jlc.net" <fcs@jlc.net>
With the rod ends unscrewed you can insert the control rod from inside the
tail section. You may need to pull the bulkhead rearward just a little to
let it drop in. Drilling an access hole is OK too, but shouldn't be
necessary. A handy trick for inserting washers in hard to reach places,
is to simply fold a piece of tape over the washer or stack of washers to
give you something to hold on to, then after inserting the bolt, pull the
tape off before tightening. A small magnetic wand does the job too.
Message 6
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| Subject: | roll bar, slider etc |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "fcs@jlc.net" <fcs@jlc.net>
The side rails (where the rollers travel) must be parallel and straight.
Do not try to form them to follow the curvature of the fuselage. Set the
front width correctly, then make the rear the same width. You may need to
file/sand a small flat spot on the outside of the rails at the rear.
Also, when working with these rails, occassionally blast them clean with
air and run a rag or Q-tip etc along them to remove metal chips. If you
don't they will errode your nylon rollers pretty quickly.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: F-989 Elevator pushrod |
01/26/2004 05:50:55 PM,
Serialize complete at 01/26/2004 05:50:55 PM
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
Also you can get hemostats about everywhere and a collection of different
types will help reach into hard to get to places. I have one with a loop
end that holds nuts quite well to get them started on a bolt.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Message 8
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| Subject: | roll bar, slider etc |
--> RV9-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
got the tracks parallel but was referring to the side rails 3 inches higher on
the slider frame itself when asking about its offset from and parallel to the
side skin. Do Not Archive
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "fcs@jlc.net" <fcs@jlc.net>
>
>
> The side rails (where the rollers travel) must be parallel and straight.
> Do not try to form them to follow the curvature of the fuselage. Set the
> front width correctly, then make the rear the same width. You may need to
> file/sand a small flat spot on the outside of the rails at the rear.
> Also, when working with these rails, occassionally blast them clean with
> air and run a rag or Q-tip etc along them to remove metal chips. If you
> don't they will errode your nylon rollers pretty quickly.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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<rv6-list@matronics.com>
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Anyone have any idea how much to torque bolts holding the plastic bearing
blocks used in the manual flap handle and rudder pedal mountings? I
tightend them to the standard torques for the size of bolt used but that
seems to compress the plastic quite a bit. Maybe it's not a problem but I
would like to know for sure, any takers?
Also the bellcrank bolt torques, I started tightening the elevator bellcrank
down to 75 inch pounds but the bolt looked like it was starting to bow so I
backed off. Anyone know what these assemblies are suppose to be torqued to
(recalling that they are only supported in the center by thick wall aluminum
tubes and the ball bearing assembly)? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A, canopy headaches
PS: Anyone had to hack 1 inch out of both rear bows on your old style canopy
frame? I did and I let Van's know I wasn't too happy about it either (I'm
not supposed to manufacture small parts they are)
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