Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:08 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle)
2. 07:51 AM - Re: tank skin gaps (Sargentclt@cs.com)
3. 11:40 AM - Wing twist (Bruce Cruikshank)
4. 12:00 PM - Re: Wing twist (Vic Jacko)
5. 03:31 PM - Re: Wing twist (Albert Gardner)
6. 04:36 PM - Re: Wing twist (Clifford Begnaud)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> RV9-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Lister,
Please read over the RV9-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV9-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV9-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RV9-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV9-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV9-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV9-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV9-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
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will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
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--> RV9-List message posted by: Sargentclt@cs.com
Paul I had the same trouble. The solution I found was in the leading edge ribs.
At the very apex of the rib. The solution was to use the scotchbrite wheel
and round them over at the point where the metal makes a U shape. At that point
the flange is very small and square. Take the rib and round them over, re-cleco
and install. This should make up the small space you need. If not then
lightly tap the end of the rib to seat them into the leading edge. This process
also gave a smooth leading edge without buldges.
Tad Sargent RV&A Fuse
Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com> wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
>Hi All,
> I've got my first tank clecoed together and on the wing, but after
>clecoing through the attach angles and skin-spar platenuts, I still
>have about 1/32" gap between the tank skin and top/bottom main skins.
>My LE is butting up perfectly by comparison.
>
> Should I try to tighten this up before drilling, or not?
>Seems like the platenut-cleco setup is not pulling the skins as
>tight as they could be. And then some people in the archives say
>a gap is good...?
>
> And now for a gotcha I didn't see in the archives anywhere... I used
>to have a 1/8" gap, but it was due to the inside of a few skin-baffle
>clecoes just barely impacting the top spar reinforcing bar. I'm
>pretty slow, it took me about an hour to realize what was going on!
>
>Tanks, :)
>Paul
>http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Bruce Cruikshank" <n19z@earthlink.net>
The time to check for twist is before any skins are clecoed on. After following
the instructions and checking for twist, both wings were twisted 1/8" , one
with wash in the other with washout (they were both built at the same time).
After removing the skins for de burring and dimpling I discovered both spars
were not held flat is the wing stands. I shimmed and clamped the front and rear
spars straight and clecoed and riveted on the skins. The enlarged dimpled
holes allowed for some adjustment. The twist was not measurable when the riveting
was done.
Having built a RV-4 I should have known better. I was duped by all the pre-punched
holes
Bruce Cruikshank
n19z@earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
Message 4
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Hey guys, If the skins are predrilled is it necessary to worry about wing
twist or did van build that into the CNC engineering?
Vic
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Cruikshank" <n19z@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Wing twist
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bruce Cruikshank" <n19z@earthlink.net>
>
> The time to check for twist is before any skins are clecoed on. After
following the instructions and checking for twist, both wings were twisted
1/8" , one with wash in the other with washout (they were both built at the
same time). After removing the skins for de burring and dimpling I
discovered both spars were not held flat is the wing stands. I shimmed and
clamped the front and rear spars straight and clecoed and riveted on the
skins. The enlarged dimpled holes allowed for some adjustment. The twist
was not measurable when the riveting was done.
>
> Having built a RV-4 I should have known better. I was duped by all the
pre-punched holes
>
>
> Bruce Cruikshank
> n19z@earthlink.net
> Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
If I remember correctly, this was the subject of discussion a few months ago
and the consensus was-I believe-that it was hard to put twist into the
prepunched wing. I think there was a builder who just put the skin on and
riveted it up. Then he measured for twist and found none. However, I think
prudence as well as good building technique would say cleco the skins on,
check and remove twist if present, then rivet.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> Hey guys, If the skins are predrilled is it necessary to worry about wing
> twist or did van build that into the CNC engineering?
> Vic
Message 6
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Vic,
I haven't riveted mine yet, but after drilling out all the holes to size and
doing the preliminary assembly, I had no detectable twist in the wing at
all.
I was careful to make sure the jig was straight and anchored only ONE end
of the spar (outboard end) The inboard end was allowed to find it's natural
alignment with only one bolt loosely inserted through the spar and into the
jig below. (just to keep the spar from sliding off the jig)
Look on my website for some pictures of this: www.barefootpilot.com, click
the photo link then look in the RV folder at the last two pictures. You'll
note the outboard end is anchored and the inboard end just has one bolt
setting in a hole, it is NOT holding the spar down to the jig. When you
cleco all parts in place having one end "floating" allows the wing to be
pulled into perfect alignment.
Hope this helps.
Cliff
>
> Hey guys, If the skins are predrilled is it necessary to worry about wing
> twist or did van build that into the CNC engineering?
>
> Vic
>
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Cruikshank" <n19z@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV9-List: Wing twist
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bruce Cruikshank" <n19z@earthlink.net>
> >
> > The time to check for twist is before any skins are clecoed on. After
> following the instructions and checking for twist, both wings were
twisted
> 1/8" , one with wash in the other with washout (they were both built at
the
> same time). After removing the skins for de burring and dimpling I
> discovered both spars were not held flat is the wing stands. I shimmed
and
> clamped the front and rear spars straight and clecoed and riveted on the
> skins. The enlarged dimpled holes allowed for some adjustment. The twist
> was not measurable when the riveting was done.
> >
> > Having built a RV-4 I should have known better. I was duped by all the
> pre-punched holes
> >
> >
> > Bruce Cruikshank
> > n19z@earthlink.net
> > Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
> >
> >
>
>
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