---------------------------------------------------------- RV9-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 02/02/04: 6 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:08 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle) 2. 07:51 AM - Re: tank skin gaps (Sargentclt@cs.com) 3. 11:40 AM - Wing twist (Bruce Cruikshank) 4. 12:00 PM - Re: Wing twist (Vic Jacko) 5. 03:31 PM - Re: Wing twist (Albert Gardner) 6. 04:36 PM - Re: Wing twist (Clifford Begnaud) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:08:01 AM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: RV9-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] DNA: do not archive --> RV9-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Lister, Please read over the RV9-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete RV9-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV9-List.FAQ.html Thank you, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ****************************************************************************** RV9-List Usage Guidelines ****************************************************************************** The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV9-List. You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein. Failure to use the RV9-List in the manner described below may result in the removal of the subscribers from the List. RV9-List Policy Statement The purpose of the RV9-List is to provide a forum of discussion for things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie among its members; and to support safe operation. 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You might have to actively address your response with the original poster's email address. - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large. - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly contribute something valuable. - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing. ------- [This is an automated posting.] ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:51:45 AM PST US From: Sargentclt@cs.com Subject: RE: RV9-List: tank skin gaps --> RV9-List message posted by: Sargentclt@cs.com Paul I had the same trouble. The solution I found was in the leading edge ribs. At the very apex of the rib. The solution was to use the scotchbrite wheel and round them over at the point where the metal makes a U shape. At that point the flange is very small and square. Take the rib and round them over, re-cleco and install. This should make up the small space you need. If not then lightly tap the end of the rib to seat them into the leading edge. This process also gave a smooth leading edge without buldges. Tad Sargent RV&A Fuse Paul Eastham wrote: >--> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham > >Hi All, > I've got my first tank clecoed together and on the wing, but after >clecoing through the attach angles and skin-spar platenuts, I still >have about 1/32" gap between the tank skin and top/bottom main skins. >My LE is butting up perfectly by comparison. > > Should I try to tighten this up before drilling, or not? >Seems like the platenut-cleco setup is not pulling the skins as >tight as they could be. And then some people in the archives say >a gap is good...? > > And now for a gotcha I didn't see in the archives anywhere... I used >to have a 1/8" gap, but it was due to the inside of a few skin-baffle >clecoes just barely impacting the top spar reinforcing bar. I'm >pretty slow, it took me about an hour to realize what was going on! > >Tanks, :) >Paul >http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 11:40:00 AM PST US From: "Bruce Cruikshank" Subject: RV9-List: Wing twist --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bruce Cruikshank" The time to check for twist is before any skins are clecoed on. After following the instructions and checking for twist, both wings were twisted 1/8" , one with wash in the other with washout (they were both built at the same time). After removing the skins for de burring and dimpling I discovered both spars were not held flat is the wing stands. I shimmed and clamped the front and rear spars straight and clecoed and riveted on the skins. The enlarged dimpled holes allowed for some adjustment. The twist was not measurable when the riveting was done. Having built a RV-4 I should have known better. I was duped by all the pre-punched holes Bruce Cruikshank n19z@earthlink.net Why Wait? Move to EarthLink. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 12:00:22 PM PST US From: "Vic Jacko" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing twist --> RV9-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" Hey guys, If the skins are predrilled is it necessary to worry about wing twist or did van build that into the CNC engineering? Vic do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Cruikshank" Subject: RV9-List: Wing twist > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bruce Cruikshank" > > The time to check for twist is before any skins are clecoed on. After following the instructions and checking for twist, both wings were twisted 1/8" , one with wash in the other with washout (they were both built at the same time). After removing the skins for de burring and dimpling I discovered both spars were not held flat is the wing stands. I shimmed and clamped the front and rear spars straight and clecoed and riveted on the skins. The enlarged dimpled holes allowed for some adjustment. The twist was not measurable when the riveting was done. > > Having built a RV-4 I should have known better. I was duped by all the pre-punched holes > > > Bruce Cruikshank > n19z@earthlink.net > Why Wait? Move to EarthLink. > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 03:31:23 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing twist --> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" If I remember correctly, this was the subject of discussion a few months ago and the consensus was-I believe-that it was hard to put twist into the prepunched wing. I think there was a builder who just put the skin on and riveted it up. Then he measured for twist and found none. However, I think prudence as well as good building technique would say cleco the skins on, check and remove twist if present, then rivet. Albert Gardner RV-9A 872RV Yuma, AZ ----- Original Message ----- > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" > Hey guys, If the skins are predrilled is it necessary to worry about wing > twist or did van build that into the CNC engineering? > Vic ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 04:36:01 PM PST US From: "Clifford Begnaud" Subject: Re: RV9-List: Wing twist --> RV9-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" Vic, I haven't riveted mine yet, but after drilling out all the holes to size and doing the preliminary assembly, I had no detectable twist in the wing at all. I was careful to make sure the jig was straight and anchored only ONE end of the spar (outboard end) The inboard end was allowed to find it's natural alignment with only one bolt loosely inserted through the spar and into the jig below. (just to keep the spar from sliding off the jig) Look on my website for some pictures of this: www.barefootpilot.com, click the photo link then look in the RV folder at the last two pictures. You'll note the outboard end is anchored and the inboard end just has one bolt setting in a hole, it is NOT holding the spar down to the jig. When you cleco all parts in place having one end "floating" allows the wing to be pulled into perfect alignment. Hope this helps. Cliff > > Hey guys, If the skins are predrilled is it necessary to worry about wing > twist or did van build that into the CNC engineering? > > Vic > > do not archive > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bruce Cruikshank" > To: > Subject: RV9-List: Wing twist > > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bruce Cruikshank" > > > > The time to check for twist is before any skins are clecoed on. After > following the instructions and checking for twist, both wings were twisted > 1/8" , one with wash in the other with washout (they were both built at the > same time). After removing the skins for de burring and dimpling I > discovered both spars were not held flat is the wing stands. I shimmed and > clamped the front and rear spars straight and clecoed and riveted on the > skins. The enlarged dimpled holes allowed for some adjustment. The twist > was not measurable when the riveting was done. > > > > Having built a RV-4 I should have known better. I was duped by all the > pre-punched holes > > > > > > Bruce Cruikshank > > n19z@earthlink.net > > Why Wait? Move to EarthLink. > > > > > >