Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:17 AM - Re: W-919 tank splice plate (Mike Hoover)
2. 03:31 AM - Re: W-919 tank splice plate (Phil Brown)
3. 03:47 AM - wires in wings (MICK MULLER)
4. 10:40 AM - Dimple or countersink the 904/976/972 (Matthew Brandes)
5. 11:41 AM - Re: wires in wings (Dave Nicholson)
6. 01:53 PM - Re: wires in wings (DThomas773@aol.com)
7. 01:56 PM - Re: Dimple or countersink the 904/976/972 (DThomas773@aol.com)
8. 02:42 PM - Re: Dimple or countersink the 904/976/972 (rv9@3rivers.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: W-919 tank splice plate |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover@sc.rr.com>
FYI,
I had emailed Vans earlier about the discrepencies in between the manual and
the drawings regarding the W-919 splce strip. Here is their reply: We
revised the manual since you bought your preview plans and the 1/2" and
11/16" dimensions are correct. We failed to update the drawing. Thanks for
bringing it to our attention. Most builders don't read the drawings that
closely.
I followed the manual (revised Mar 03) and used the 1/2" edge line for the
LE rivets holes, and have 11/16" exposed for the tank skin overlap. The
screw holes are closer to the edge and the outboard edge of the 919 does
extend beyond the 908 LE nose rib flange by about 3/16". This is apparently
what Vans intended, so I'm sticking with it. Hope this helps.
Mike
SC
90709 wings ...sealing first tank.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: W-919 tank splice plate
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
> Hi Phil,
> Van's said that it was fine and to forge ahead. However, now that my
> LE is all riveted up, it sure looks like it ought to stick out more
> than they specify....there is about a half inch of extra metal
> outboard past the LE rib flange. On my other wing I will certainly
> pull it out further or at least err slightly on the tank side.
>
> Also check the archives regarding trimming the aft edges of the strip
> forward of the spar. Not mentioned in the directions and impossible to
see
> on the plans.
>
> Regards,
> Paul
>
> On Sat, Feb 28, 2004 at 05:00:16PM -0000, Phil Brown wrote:
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Phil Brown" <philipbrown@onetel.net.uk>
> >
> > Hi Paul ,
> > Phil Brown from the U.K. here! how did you get on with the strip,
like
> > you I agree there isn't much meat for the nut plates....did you go ahead
> > anyway? I'm at that stage now. My plans are even older than yours! I
cant
> > even find a reference to go about drilling and attaching the nut
plates!!!!
> > phil
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
> > To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV9-List: W-919 tank splice plate
> >
> >
> > > --> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
> > >
> > > Hi everyone in rv9land,
> > > I just started to dimple the splice plate the joins the LE to the
> > > tank, and I'm suddenly not sure I drilled this thing right. The tank
> > > screw dimples go right to the edge of the plate, distorting the edge
> > > slightly, and the #40 platenut attach holes are right at minimum edge
> > > distance, .22" or so.
> > > Is this similar to anyone else's? I read the drilling directions
> > > again and I seem to have followed those, but it sure looks like the
> > > whole plate should have been placed further inboard, toward the tank.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Paul
> > > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: W-919 tank splice plate |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Phil Brown" <philipbrown@onetel.net.uk>
Thanks Paul
I think I'll follow you, even taking into consideration
wing flexing there's one hell of a lot of room between strip and tank.
phil brown
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: W-919 tank splice plate
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
> Hi Phil,
> Van's said that it was fine and to forge ahead. However, now that my
> LE is all riveted up, it sure looks like it ought to stick out more
> than they specify....there is about a half inch of extra metal
> outboard past the LE rib flange. On my other wing I will certainly
> pull it out further or at least err slightly on the tank side.
>
> Also check the archives regarding trimming the aft edges of the strip
> forward of the spar. Not mentioned in the directions and impossible to
see
> on the plans.
>
> Regards,
> Paul
>
> On Sat, Feb 28, 2004 at 05:00:16PM -0000, Phil Brown wrote:
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Phil Brown" <philipbrown@onetel.net.uk>
> >
> > Hi Paul ,
> > Phil Brown from the U.K. here! how did you get on with the strip,
like
> > you I agree there isn't much meat for the nut plates....did you go ahead
> > anyway? I'm at that stage now. My plans are even older than yours! I
cant
> > even find a reference to go about drilling and attaching the nut
plates!!!!
> > phil
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
> > To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV9-List: W-919 tank splice plate
> >
> >
> > > --> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
> > >
> > > Hi everyone in rv9land,
> > > I just started to dimple the splice plate the joins the LE to the
> > > tank, and I'm suddenly not sure I drilled this thing right. The tank
> > > screw dimples go right to the edge of the plate, distorting the edge
> > > slightly, and the #40 platenut attach holes are right at minimum edge
> > > distance, .22" or so.
> > > Is this similar to anyone else's? I read the drilling directions
> > > again and I seem to have followed those, but it sure looks like the
> > > whole plate should have been placed further inboard, toward the tank.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Paul
> > > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM@bigpond.com>
Reading the plans for the wings, it is suggested that when preparing the
ribs for the wings, consideration should be given to providing extra holes
to run wires to strobes, landing lights etc. Looking at those gaping
lighmening holes in all the 911 and 912 ribs, I'm scratching my head
wondering why on earth I need to add more? Why not just use the lightening
holes?
Mick Muller
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dimple or countersink the 904/976/972 |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
I'm about ready to disassemble the center section assembly but before I do, I need
some input. The F-972 floor skin overlaps the F-976 center section skin which
in turn sits on the flange of the 904 E&F. The plans note four places you
should countersink the 976/904 because this is where the floor angles attach
on the inside. This implies that you should dimple the rest. The flange on
the 904 is pretty thick, and dimpling this plus the two skins could leave a not
so hot mating surfaces between them all.
I'm thinking I'll countersink the entire row of 976 skin/904 flange and dimple
the 972 skin to sit inside the countersink. Is this what others did?? Am I missing
something??
Matthew Brandes
Van's RV-9A (Wings)
EAA Chapter 91 & 868
www.n523rv.com
matthew@n523rv.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd@insightbb.com>
If you want to run the wires through the existing lightening holes, there is
plenty of room, but you will have to stabalize these wires at each rib,
which will require you to make/buy some type of 90 bracket to hold the
wires and attach to the rib.
If you want to "really" secure the wires, you can run a plastic conduit
through these lightening holes, but you will still have to secure the
conduit to each rib.
I chose the conduit route, but went ahead and drilled additonal 1/2" holes
through each rib for the conduit, eliminating the need for any brackets.
Since I have an Auto Pilot in one wing and Static/Pitot Lines in the other,
I have two 1/2" OD plastic conduits in each wing (One is for lighting wires,
the other for A/P wires, or tubing.). This makes it very easy to install
the wires and tubes after the wings are closed.
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM@bigpond.com>
Subject: RV9-List: wires in wings
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM@bigpond.com>
>
> Reading the plans for the wings, it is suggested that when preparing the
> ribs for the wings, consideration should be given to providing extra
holes
> to run wires to strobes, landing lights etc. Looking at those gaping
> lighmening holes in all the 911 and 912 ribs, I'm scratching my head
> wondering why on earth I need to add more? Why not just use the lightening
> holes?
> Mick Muller
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
You might want to take a look at where your lights will be and where your
wire will need to go into the fuselage. Also the aileron pushrod travels through
one set of theses holes. If wire runs share the same holes as the aileron
pushrod be sure hey securd it well away from one another.
I used these holes attached them at each rib with tie wraps, cushioned by a
small piece of plastic tubing.
Dennis Thomas
RV-9, flying
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Dimple or countersink the 904/976/972 |
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
I'm away from my shopand plans, but as I remember where are talking about,
your rivets go through 2 layers of skin and the wing center section. THe center
section is too thick to dimple and so the layers of skin on top of it can't
be dimpled either.
Dennis Thomas
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dimple or countersink the 904/976/972 |
--> RV9-List message posted by: rv9@3rivers.net
Of course they can. The dimpled skin sits in the dimpled skin, which sits in
the countersunk holes.
There is recurrent discussion on this point, just like the wires in the
wings. The archives might be a good place to look. Some folks countersunk
the entire belly skin, but I asked Van's when doing mine, and they recommended
dimpling it. I did, and I'm glad. This area takes some pretty good drumming
from the exhaust and turbulence off the prop and cowl. Dimples are tougher.
The .040 dimples a bit harder, but comes out fine.
Gary
Quoting "DThomas773@aol.com" <DThomas773@aol.com>:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
>
> I'm away from my shopand plans, but as I remember where are talking about,
> your rivets go through 2 layers of skin and the wing center section. THe
> center
> section is too thick to dimple and so the layers of skin on top of it can't
> be dimpled either.
>
> Dennis Thomas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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