Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:07 AM - Re: W-919 tank splice plate (Phil Brown)
2. 07:33 AM - Re: wires in wings (fcs@jlc.net)
3. 12:37 PM - Re: wires in wings (Terry Hobert)
4. 06:22 PM - Re: wires in wings (Richard Scott)
5. 06:38 PM - Re: wires in wings (Dave Nicholson)
6. 07:41 PM - Re: wires in wings (Paul Pflimlin)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: W-919 tank splice plate |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Phil Brown" <philipbrown@onetel.net.uk>
Yeah, thanks Mike......I flagged your previous correspondence when you
originally posted it and inserted it into my build manual for when I came to
that point.....which is now!
thanks again
phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover@sc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: W-919 tank splice plate
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover@sc.rr.com>
>
> FYI,
>
> I had emailed Vans earlier about the discrepencies in between the manual
and
> the drawings regarding the W-919 splce strip. Here is their reply: We
> revised the manual since you bought your preview plans and the 1/2" and
> 11/16" dimensions are correct. We failed to update the drawing. Thanks for
> bringing it to our attention. Most builders don't read the drawings that
> closely.
>
> I followed the manual (revised Mar 03) and used the 1/2" edge line for the
> LE rivets holes, and have 11/16" exposed for the tank skin overlap. The
> screw holes are closer to the edge and the outboard edge of the 919 does
> extend beyond the 908 LE nose rib flange by about 3/16". This is
apparently
> what Vans intended, so I'm sticking with it. Hope this helps.
>
> Mike
> SC
> 90709 wings ...sealing first tank.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: W-919 tank splice plate
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
> >
> > Hi Phil,
> > Van's said that it was fine and to forge ahead. However, now that my
> > LE is all riveted up, it sure looks like it ought to stick out more
> > than they specify....there is about a half inch of extra metal
> > outboard past the LE rib flange. On my other wing I will certainly
> > pull it out further or at least err slightly on the tank side.
> >
> > Also check the archives regarding trimming the aft edges of the strip
> > forward of the spar. Not mentioned in the directions and impossible to
> see
> > on the plans.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Paul
> >
> > On Sat, Feb 28, 2004 at 05:00:16PM -0000, Phil Brown wrote:
> > > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Phil Brown"
<philipbrown@onetel.net.uk>
> > >
> > > Hi Paul ,
> > > Phil Brown from the U.K. here! how did you get on with the strip,
> like
> > > you I agree there isn't much meat for the nut plates....did you go
ahead
> > > anyway? I'm at that stage now. My plans are even older than yours! I
> cant
> > > even find a reference to go about drilling and attaching the nut
> plates!!!!
> > > phil
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
> > > To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV9-List: W-919 tank splice plate
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
> > > >
> > > > Hi everyone in rv9land,
> > > > I just started to dimple the splice plate the joins the LE to the
> > > > tank, and I'm suddenly not sure I drilled this thing right. The
tank
> > > > screw dimples go right to the edge of the plate, distorting the edge
> > > > slightly, and the #40 platenut attach holes are right at minimum
edge
> > > > distance, .22" or so.
> > > > Is this similar to anyone else's? I read the drilling directions
> > > > again and I seem to have followed those, but it sure looks like the
> > > > whole plate should have been placed further inboard, toward the
tank.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Paul
> > > > http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "fcs@jlc.net" <fcs@jlc.net>
I just enlarged the existing tooling holes in the ribs to run Vans
conduit. The conduit has already proven its value as I decided to change
some wiring after the initial installation. This was simple with the
conduit and would have been major surgery any other way. One suggestion
for conduit users,,, place a blob of weatherstrip adhesive at each place
where the plastic conduit passes through a rib. Over time, the small
amount of vibration against the sharp rib hole can wear through the
conduit. A drop of adhesive eliminates the vibration.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
I ran the conduit through the lightening holes. At each rib I would cut a
piece of conduit about 2" long slice it lengthwise and wrap it around the
conduit where it would meet the edge of the lightening hole. I then deilled
a #40 hole alittle away from the edge of the lightening hole and put a small
tie wrap throught it, I then put a larger tie wrap 90 degrees through that
one and around the two layers of conduit. This holds it secure. I then
dropped of wires at the aileron bellcrank (for auto pilot and pitot heat if
used) continued on and dropped off wire for the landing light and continued
the cable for the position/strobes on to wing tip. Dito on right wing w/o
bellcrank drop, but have landing light in both wings and etc.
Could send picture, but pretty straight forward.
Terry 9A fuselage
>From: DThomas773@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
>To: rv9-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
>Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 16:53:28 EST
>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
>
>You might want to take a look at where your lights will be and where your
>wire will need to go into the fuselage. Also the aileron pushrod travels
>through
>one set of theses holes. If wire runs share the same holes as the aileron
>pushrod be sure hey securd it well away from one another.
>I used these holes attached them at each rib with tie wraps, cushioned by a
>small piece of plastic tubing.
>
>Dennis Thomas
>RV-9, flying
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
My AI tells me not to use ty wraps to attach anything directly to
metal. Says it can vibrate thru the metal, even steel. The A&P who
restored my Interstate Cadet says the same thing. I don't know if this is
true, but both of these guys are top notch mechanics, so I take their word
for it, especially in regard to aluminum.
You might bend up a small aluminum bracket, attach that to your rib with a
rivet or two, then attach the conduit to the bracket with a ty wrap cradle
(p. 397 of Spruce's catalog) or an Adel clamp.
Richard Scott
9A Emp.
At 12:08 PM 3/1/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
>
>I ran the conduit through the lightening holes. At each rib I would cut a
>piece of conduit about 2" long slice it lengthwise and wrap it around the
>conduit where it would meet the edge of the lightening hole. I then deilled
>a #40 hole alittle away from the edge of the lightening hole and put a small
>tie wrap throught it, I then put a larger tie wrap 90 degrees through that
>one and around the two layers of conduit. This holds it secure. I then
>dropped of wires at the aileron bellcrank (for auto pilot and pitot heat if
>used) continued on and dropped off wire for the landing light and continued
>the cable for the position/strobes on to wing tip. Dito on right wing w/o
>bellcrank drop, but have landing light in both wings and etc.
>Could send picture, but pretty straight forward.
>Terry 9A fuselage
>
>
> >From: DThomas773@aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> >Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 16:53:28 EST
> >
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
> >
> >You might want to take a look at where your lights will be and where your
> >wire will need to go into the fuselage. Also the aileron pushrod travels
> >through
> >one set of theses holes. If wire runs share the same holes as the aileron
> >pushrod be sure hey securd it well away from one another.
> >I used these holes attached them at each rib with tie wraps, cushioned by a
> >small piece of plastic tubing.
> >
> >Dennis Thomas
> >RV-9, flying
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd@insightbb.com>
Something to keep in mind is the expected life of wire ties. They are
subject to heat degradation as well a vibration, and both conditions exist
inside the wings over time. Pulling a small radius with a wire tie also
reduces it's strength at the "gripper" because of the sharp angle entering
the tooth section. I have had some fail under these conditions.
Detecting and replacing broken wire ties inside the wing would be pretty
difficult, and having the Aileron Push Rod chafe a hole in a wire would not
be good.
Adel's (MS21919 Cushion Clamps) with mechanical fasteners (bolts) and
self-locking nuts are much more reliable, even if they are more expensive,
complex, and heavy.
Because of all these issues, I chose to run my conduits through enlarged
tooling holes in the ribs.
Dave Nicholson
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
>
> I ran the conduit through the lightening holes. At each rib I would cut a
> piece of conduit about 2" long slice it lengthwise and wrap it around the
> conduit where it would meet the edge of the lightening hole. I then
deilled
> a #40 hole alittle away from the edge of the lightening hole and put a
small
> tie wrap throught it, I then put a larger tie wrap 90 degrees through that
> one and around the two layers of conduit. This holds it secure. I then
> dropped of wires at the aileron bellcrank (for auto pilot and pitot heat
if
> used) continued on and dropped off wire for the landing light and
continued
> the cable for the position/strobes on to wing tip. Dito on right wing w/o
> bellcrank drop, but have landing light in both wings and etc.
> Could send picture, but pretty straight forward.
> Terry 9A fuselage
>
>
> >From: DThomas773@aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> >Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 16:53:28 EST
> >
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
> >
> >You might want to take a look at where your lights will be and where your
> >wire will need to go into the fuselage. Also the aileron pushrod travels
> >through
> >one set of theses holes. If wire runs share the same holes as the
aileron
> >pushrod be sure hey securd it well away from one another.
> >I used these holes attached them at each rib with tie wraps, cushioned by
a
> >small piece of plastic tubing.
> >
> >Dennis Thomas
> >RV-9, flying
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo@phonewave.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Scott" <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
The following information is Platinum, believe it!!
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
>
> My AI tells me not to use ty wraps to attach anything directly to
> metal. Says it can vibrate thru the metal, even steel. The A&P who
> restored my Interstate Cadet says the same thing. I don't know if this is
> true, but both of these guys are top notch mechanics, so I take their word
> for it, especially in regard to aluminum.
>
> You might bend up a small aluminum bracket, attach that to your rib with a
> rivet or two, then attach the conduit to the bracket with a ty wrap cradle
> (p. 397 of Spruce's catalog) or an Adel clamp.
>
> Richard Scott
> 9A Emp.
>
> At 12:08 PM 3/1/2004, you wrote:
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
> >
> >I ran the conduit through the lightening holes. At each rib I would cut
a
> >piece of conduit about 2" long slice it lengthwise and wrap it around the
> >conduit where it would meet the edge of the lightening hole. I then
deilled
> >a #40 hole alittle away from the edge of the lightening hole and put a
small
> >tie wrap throught it, I then put a larger tie wrap 90 degrees through
that
> >one and around the two layers of conduit. This holds it secure. I then
> >dropped of wires at the aileron bellcrank (for auto pilot and pitot heat
if
> >used) continued on and dropped off wire for the landing light and
continued
> >the cable for the position/strobes on to wing tip. Dito on right wing
w/o
> >bellcrank drop, but have landing light in both wings and etc.
> >Could send picture, but pretty straight forward.
> >Terry 9A fuselage
> >
> >
> > >From: DThomas773@aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> > >To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> > >Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 16:53:28 EST
> > >
> > >--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
> > >
> > >You might want to take a look at where your lights will be and where
your
> > >wire will need to go into the fuselage. Also the aileron pushrod
travels
> > >through
> > >one set of theses holes. If wire runs share the same holes as the
aileron
> > >pushrod be sure hey securd it well away from one another.
> > >I used these holes attached them at each rib with tie wraps, cushioned
by a
> > >small piece of plastic tubing.
> > >
> > >Dennis Thomas
> > >RV-9, flying
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
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