Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:05 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle)
2. 03:09 AM - Re: wires in wings (John Oliveira)
3. 09:39 AM - Re: wires in wings (Albert Gardner)
4. 11:26 AM - Re: wires in wings (Larry PERRYMAN)
5. 01:40 PM - Re: Re: wires in wings (Albert Gardner)
6. 03:54 PM - Re: wires in wings (Terry Hobert)
7. 05:48 PM - Re: Re: wires in wings (Bill Repucci)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> RV9-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Lister,
Please read over the RV9-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV9-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV9-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RV9-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV9-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV9-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV9-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV9-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
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easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
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easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
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- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
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agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
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- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
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- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
Terry, that sounds like a lot of work. I used the snap bushings in Vans
catalogue. They snap in to slightly enlarged holes. 10 seconds per hole.
Just run the wires. Don't need the conduit to run additional wires for the
future as you can reach the whole wing through inspection port, tips, or
root. Simple, cheap, less work, made for the job.
John Oliveira
9a fuselage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
>
> I ran the conduit through the lightening holes. At each rib I would cut a
> piece of conduit about 2" long slice it lengthwise and wrap it around the
> conduit where it would meet the edge of the lightening hole. I then
deilled
> a #40 hole alittle away from the edge of the lightening hole and put a
small
> tie wrap throught it, I then put a larger tie wrap 90 degrees through that
> one and around the two layers of conduit. This holds it secure. I then
> dropped of wires at the aileron bellcrank (for auto pilot and pitot heat
if
> used) continued on and dropped off wire for the landing light and
continued
> the cable for the position/strobes on to wing tip. Dito on right wing w/o
> bellcrank drop, but have landing light in both wings and etc.
> Could send picture, but pretty straight forward.
> Terry 9A fuselage
>
>
> >From: DThomas773@aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> >Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 16:53:28 EST
> >
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
> >
> >You might want to take a look at where your lights will be and where your
> >wire will need to go into the fuselage. Also the aileron pushrod travels
> >through
> >one set of theses holes. If wire runs share the same holes as the
aileron
> >pushrod be sure hey securd it well away from one another.
> >I used these holes attached them at each rib with tie wraps, cushioned by
a
> >small piece of plastic tubing.
> >
> >Dennis Thomas
> >RV-9, flying
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
This is a point to consider. Also, when I had to remove my left wing tank
last week to fix a leak at the BNC connector that always bothered me, I
found that access to the tank bolts that go through the spar was hampered
somewhat by the locations I had chosen for the pitot and static lines. If
you run wire conduit think about reaching in through a inspection hole, then
through the lightening hole to remove those bolts. The worst one is the
inboard set that lies between the closely spaced ribs.
Remember all those times you cussed auto engineers for the maintenance
difficulties that they built into their designs?
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
> Terry, that sounds like a lot of work. I used the snap bushings in Vans
> catalogue. They snap in to slightly enlarged holes. 10 seconds per hole.
> Just run the wires. Don't need the conduit to run additional wires for the
> future as you can reach the whole wing through inspection port, tips, or
> root. Simple, cheap, less work, made for the job.
>
> John Oliveira
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
03/02/2004 08:26:36 PM,
Serialize complete at 03/02/2004 08:26:36 PM
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
Albert,
Get you a 1/4 inch air rachet. The only way to go in getting the tank
bolts out.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
RE: Re: RV9-List: wires in wingsBill, I'm going to reply to the list since it
might be useful info for someone else.
The problem with the BNC bulkhead connector leaking at the center pin has been
an issue only for some. I was aware of this and bought a BNC connector from DigiKey
made for a pressure bulkhead. I anticipated that because it was made for
a pressure bulkhead there would not be a leakage problem. The right tank connector
did not leak but the left one would ooze a few drops of fuel when the tank
was full enough to put fuel against the connector. It probably needed a small
amount of pressure also but it left a stain and also caused a larger problem.
I use EI gages (EI is a great co. to work with and I love the gages especially
the fuel computer) and the fuel would work its way down the wires and into
the cabin leaving a small stain on the floor. In the process, it sometimes would
get the interface module that EI uses wet and sometimes the gage would go
to 0 for awhile until it dried out. Plus, if I ever smell fuel it the cabin I'd
like it to be an unusual event. Additionally, at the time EI sent their interface
module with ring terminals so you had to cut them off and install a BNC
connector but I think now you can get the modules with either ring terminals
or a BNC installed when you buy them. I can tell you I prosealed the hell out
of the wires, connector, and anything else I thought might possibly leak but somehow
something let gas out of the tank when it was full. I stress that this
is not usually the case but several others have reported the problem.
My fix involved filling the hole left by the BNC bulkhead connector with a presealed
3/8" bolt with SAE washers on each side of the tank bulkhead. For the electrical
connection, I drilled a 1/4" hole. From Lowe's I bought a nylon spacer
1/2" long, 1/4" OD and .140" ID. I drilled the ID out to #19 so a No. 8 screw
would go through it. I stuck this spacer through the 1/4" hole and on each
side of it I put a 1/4" thick nylon spacer, 1/2" OD, .257" ID. I used a threaded
No. 8-32 rod and used ring terminals on both the inside wire and the EI interface
module. I put lots of proseal around and used some no. 8 brass washers
to help compress the large nylon spacers against the tank bulkhead. So far I'm
very happy. It's possible that larger nylon spacers are available so the same
arrangement could have been done using the old hole that the BNC connector was
in and I could have avoided drilling a new 1/4" hole. BTW, the only reason Vans
uses a BNC connector is because they wanted a locking connector and that setup
worked well for many builders.
It wasn't that hard to get the tank off (about 2 hours) and a little less to get
it back on but I was very happy I had cleaned up the edges of the lightening
holes. I thought about the air ratchet but didn't want to buy any more tools.
All I'm saying is don't put stuff that covers up access to those bolts when you
run wires, pitot lines, whatever.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: Repucci, Bill
Subject: RE: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
Albert,
What kind of problem did you have with the BNC connector and what did you do
to fix it?
I am riveting up my first (left) wing and there is a leak out of the center of
the BNC connector that I have tired to seal twice. (and think I might have
it fixed but I'm not sure yet.) Van's told me to clean the wire and connector,
rough them up, and COVER them with proseal.
As for the wire, I cut the holes to install Van's conduit and will probably continue
to install it in both wings. Your comments about removing the tanks after
the bottom skin is installed frightens me a bit.
Bill R.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
Thanks for the tip, I think I will replace the ty wraps with adel clamps.
It wasn't really much work and I kept the conduit toward the trailing edge
and toward the top skin. It is weel clear of the inspection openings and
the aileron bellcrank. I had wondered about the ty wraps wearing and had
figured my tech counciler may have me change them. That's why I've left the
bottom skins off and figured I won't button the wings all up until alittle
before mounting them.
Thanks again,
Terry 9A fuselage
>From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
>Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 10:39:05 -0700
>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
>
>This is a point to consider. Also, when I had to remove my left wing tank
>last week to fix a leak at the BNC connector that always bothered me, I
>found that access to the tank bolts that go through the spar was hampered
>somewhat by the locations I had chosen for the pitot and static lines. If
>you run wire conduit think about reaching in through a inspection hole,
>then
>through the lightening hole to remove those bolts. The worst one is the
>inboard set that lies between the closely spaced ribs.
>Remember all those times you cussed auto engineers for the maintenance
>difficulties that they built into their designs?
>Albert Gardner
>RV-9A 872RV
>Yuma, AZ
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
> > Terry, that sounds like a lot of work. I used the snap bushings in Vans
> > catalogue. They snap in to slightly enlarged holes. 10 seconds per
>hole.
> > Just run the wires. Don't need the conduit to run additional wires for
>the
> > future as you can reach the whole wing through inspection port, tips, or
> > root. Simple, cheap, less work, made for the job.
> >
> > John Oliveira
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com>
Albert,
Thanks for the info. I need to wait another week before retesting my
tank as my shop is cold, 59 most days, so the proseal will take some
time to set.
Bill
RV-9
SN: 90737
N941WR (Reserved)
Riveting Left top wing skins in place.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Subject: Re: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
--> <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
RE: Re: RV9-List: wires in wingsBill, I'm going to reply to the list
since it might be useful info for someone else.
The problem with the BNC bulkhead connector leaking at the center pin
has been an issue only for some. I was aware of this and bought a BNC
connector from DigiKey made for a pressure bulkhead. I anticipated that
because it was made for a pressure bulkhead there would not be a leakage
problem. The right tank connector did not leak but the left one would
ooze a few drops of fuel when the tank was full enough to put fuel
against the connector. It probably needed a small amount of pressure
also but it left a stain and also caused a larger problem. I use EI
gages (EI is a great co. to work with and I love the gages especially
the fuel computer) and the fuel would work its way down the wires and
into the cabin leaving a small stain on the floor. In the process, it
sometimes would get the interface module that EI uses wet and sometimes
the gage would go to 0 for awhile until it dried out. Plus, if I ever
smell fuel it the cabin I'd like it to be an unusual event.
Additionally, at t! he time EI sent their interface module with ring
terminals so you had to cut them off and install a BNC connector but I
think now you can get the modules with either ring terminals or a BNC
installed when you buy them. I can tell you I prosealed the hell out of
the wires, connector, and anything else I thought might possibly leak
but somehow something let gas out of the tank when it was full. I stress
that this is not usually the case but several others have reported the
problem.
My fix involved filling the hole left by the BNC bulkhead connector with
a presealed 3/8" bolt with SAE washers on each side of the tank
bulkhead. For the electrical connection, I drilled a 1/4" hole. From
Lowe's I bought a nylon spacer 1/2" long, 1/4" OD and .140" ID. I
drilled the ID out to #19 so a No. 8 screw would go through it. I stuck
this spacer through the 1/4" hole and on each side of it I put a 1/4"
thick nylon spacer, 1/2" OD, .257" ID. I used a threaded No. 8-32 rod
and used ring terminals on both the inside wire and the EI interface
module. I put lots of proseal around and used some no. 8 brass washers
to help compress the large nylon spacers against the tank bulkhead. So
far I'm very happy. It's possible that larger nylon spacers are
available so the same arrangement could have been done using the old
hole that the BNC connector was in and I could have avoided drilling a
new 1/4" hole. BTW, the only reason Vans uses a BNC connector is because
they wanted a lo! cking connector and that setup worked well for many
builders.
It wasn't that hard to get the tank off (about 2 hours) and a little
less to get it back on but I was very happy I had cleaned up the edges
of the lightening holes. I thought about the air ratchet but didn't want
to buy any more tools. All I'm saying is don't put stuff that covers up
access to those bolts when you run wires, pitot lines, whatever.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: Repucci, Bill
Subject: RE: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
Albert,
What kind of problem did you have with the BNC connector and what did
you do to fix it?
I am riveting up my first (left) wing and there is a leak out of the
center of the BNC connector that I have tired to seal twice. (and think
I might have it fixed but I'm not sure yet.) Van's told me to clean the
wire and connector, rough them up, and COVER them with proseal.
As for the wire, I cut the holes to install Van's conduit and will
probably continue to install it in both wings. Your comments about
removing the tanks after the bottom skin is installed frightens me a
bit.
Bill R.
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