Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:09 AM - Re: wires in wings (John Oliveira)
2. 07:59 AM - Re: Re: wires in wings (Sargentclt@cs.com)
3. 09:29 AM - Re: wires in wings (Terry Hobert)
4. 11:32 AM - Quick Fit Tabs for Ground Blocks (Stein Bruch)
5. 07:58 PM - [PLEASE READ] Virus Laden Spam Purports To Be From Matronics... (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
The hardest job on th whole plane so far for me was riveting the bottom wing
skins to the trailing edge spar. Be careful of where you put your conduit.
the solid tubing may interfere with your ability to get your arm in there to
do the riveting.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks for the tip, I think I will replace the ty wraps with adel clamps.
> It wasn't really much work and I kept the conduit toward the trailing edge
> and toward the top skin. It is weel clear of the inspection openings and
> the aileron bellcrank. I had wondered about the ty wraps wearing and had
> figured my tech counciler may have me change them. That's why I've left
the
> bottom skins off and figured I won't button the wings all up until alittle
> before mounting them.
> Thanks again,
> Terry 9A fuselage
>
>
> >From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
> >Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> >Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 10:39:05 -0700
> >
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
<spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
> >
> >This is a point to consider. Also, when I had to remove my left wing tank
> >last week to fix a leak at the BNC connector that always bothered me, I
> >found that access to the tank bolts that go through the spar was hampered
> >somewhat by the locations I had chosen for the pitot and static lines. If
> >you run wire conduit think about reaching in through a inspection hole,
> >then
> >through the lightening hole to remove those bolts. The worst one is the
> >inboard set that lies between the closely spaced ribs.
> >Remember all those times you cussed auto engineers for the maintenance
> >difficulties that they built into their designs?
> >Albert Gardner
> >RV-9A 872RV
> >Yuma, AZ
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
> > > Terry, that sounds like a lot of work. I used the snap bushings in
Vans
> > > catalogue. They snap in to slightly enlarged holes. 10 seconds per
> >hole.
> > > Just run the wires. Don't need the conduit to run additional wires for
> >the
> > > future as you can reach the whole wing through inspection port, tips,
or
> > > root. Simple, cheap, less work, made for the job.
> > >
> > > John Oliveira
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Sargentclt@cs.com
Bill, what method are you using to test the tanks.
Tad
"Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com> wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com>
>
>Albert,
>
>Thanks for the info. I need to wait another week before retesting my
>tank as my shop is cold, 59 most days, so the proseal will take some
>time to set.
>
>Bill
>RV-9
>SN: 90737
>N941WR (Reserved)
>Riveting Left top wing skins in place.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
>To: rv9-list@matronics.com; bill@repucci.com
>Subject: Re: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
>
>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
>--> <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
>
>RE: Re: RV9-List: wires in wingsBill, I'm going to reply to the list
>since it might be useful info for someone else.
>
>The problem with the BNC bulkhead connector leaking at the center pin
>has been an issue only for some. I was aware of this and bought a BNC
>connector from DigiKey made for a pressure bulkhead. I anticipated that
>because it was made for a pressure bulkhead there would not be a leakage
>problem. The right tank connector did not leak but the left one would
>ooze a few drops of fuel when the tank was full enough to put fuel
>against the connector. It probably needed a small amount of pressure
>also but it left a stain and also caused a larger problem. I use EI
>gages (EI is a great co. to work with and I love the gages especially
>the fuel computer) and the fuel would work its way down the wires and
>into the cabin leaving a small stain on the floor. In the process, it
>sometimes would get the interface module that EI uses wet and sometimes
>the gage would go to 0 for awhile until it dried out. Plus, if I ever
>smell fuel it the cabin I'd like it to be an unusual event.
>Additionally, at t! he time EI sent their interface module with ring
>terminals so you had to cut them off and install a BNC connector but I
>think now you can get the modules with either ring terminals or a BNC
>installed when you buy them. I can tell you I prosealed the hell out of
>the wires, connector, and anything else I thought might possibly leak
>but somehow something let gas out of the tank when it was full. I stress
>that this is not usually the case but several others have reported the
>problem.
>
>My fix involved filling the hole left by the BNC bulkhead connector with
>a presealed 3/8" bolt with SAE washers on each side of the tank
>bulkhead. For the electrical connection, I drilled a 1/4" hole. From
>Lowe's I bought a nylon spacer 1/2" long, 1/4" OD and .140" ID. I
>drilled the ID out to #19 so a No. 8 screw would go through it. I stuck
>this spacer through the 1/4" hole and on each side of it I put a 1/4"
>thick nylon spacer, 1/2" OD, .257" ID. I used a threaded No. 8-32 rod
>and used ring terminals on both the inside wire and the EI interface
>module. I put lots of proseal around and used some no. 8 brass washers
>to help compress the large nylon spacers against the tank bulkhead. So
>far I'm very happy. It's possible that larger nylon spacers are
>available so the same arrangement could have been done using the old
>hole that the BNC connector was in and I could have avoided drilling a
>new 1/4" hole. BTW, the only reason Vans uses a BNC connector is because
>they wanted a lo! cking connector and that setup worked well for many
>builders.
>
>It wasn't that hard to get the tank off (about 2 hours) and a little
>less to get it back on but I was very happy I had cleaned up the edges
>of the lightening holes. I thought about the air ratchet but didn't want
>to buy any more tools. All I'm saying is don't put stuff that covers up
>access to those bolts when you run wires, pitot lines, whatever.
>
>Albert Gardner
>RV-9A 872RV
>Yuma, AZ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Repucci, Bill
> Subject: RE: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> Albert,
> What kind of problem did you have with the BNC connector and what did
>you do to fix it?
> I am riveting up my first (left) wing and there is a leak out of the
>center of the BNC connector that I have tired to seal twice. (and think
>I might have it fixed but I'm not sure yet.) Van's told me to clean the
>wire and connector, rough them up, and COVER them with proseal.
> As for the wire, I cut the holes to install Van's conduit and will
>probably continue to install it in both wings. Your comments about
>removing the tanks after the bottom skin is installed frightens me a
>bit.
>
> Bill R.
>
>
>==
>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>==
>==
>==
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: wires in wings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
Thanks, I used the flex tubing that Van's offers. I didn't want it to be
solid and I did want the ability to flex it around exactly for the reasons
you bring up. This can prevent damaging wires that aren't in a conduit when
maintenance or mods are made in the future. That is another reason I used
the existing lightening holes was to keep the flex conduit away from where
the shop heads of rivets will be. I never felt right about the one ty wrap
around the rib (it would contact the edge of the lightening hole) so I am
changing those to a very small SS eye bolt and it will attach to the #40
hole I had drilled back from the lightening hole edge. Of course the hole
will be increased to the diameter of a 6/32 screw. this way the wrap arounf
the doubled flex conduit will be held by the smooth radius of the eye. I
didn't attach to every single rib either, I attached only enough for
adequate support.
Terry 9A fuselage
>From: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
>Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
>Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 06:09:14 -0500
>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
>
>The hardest job on th whole plane so far for me was riveting the bottom
>wing
>skins to the trailing edge spar. Be careful of where you put your conduit.
>the solid tubing may interfere with your ability to get your arm in there
>to
>do the riveting.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Terry Hobert" <terhobey@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Thanks for the tip, I think I will replace the ty wraps with adel
>clamps.
> > It wasn't really much work and I kept the conduit toward the trailing
>edge
> > and toward the top skin. It is weel clear of the inspection openings
>and
> > the aileron bellcrank. I had wondered about the ty wraps wearing and
>had
> > figured my tech counciler may have me change them. That's why I've left
>the
> > bottom skins off and figured I won't button the wings all up until
>alittle
> > before mounting them.
> > Thanks again,
> > Terry 9A fuselage
> >
> >
> > >From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
> > >Reply-To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> > >To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: Re: RV9-List: wires in wings
> > >Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 10:39:05 -0700
> > >
> > >--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
><spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
> > >
> > >This is a point to consider. Also, when I had to remove my left wing
>tank
> > >last week to fix a leak at the BNC connector that always bothered me, I
> > >found that access to the tank bolts that go through the spar was
>hampered
> > >somewhat by the locations I had chosen for the pitot and static lines.
>If
> > >you run wire conduit think about reaching in through a inspection hole,
> > >then
> > >through the lightening hole to remove those bolts. The worst one is the
> > >inboard set that lies between the closely spaced ribs.
> > >Remember all those times you cussed auto engineers for the maintenance
> > >difficulties that they built into their designs?
> > >Albert Gardner
> > >RV-9A 872RV
> > >Yuma, AZ
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
> > > > Terry, that sounds like a lot of work. I used the snap bushings in
>Vans
> > > > catalogue. They snap in to slightly enlarged holes. 10 seconds per
> > >hole.
> > > > Just run the wires. Don't need the conduit to run additional wires
>for
> > >the
> > > > future as you can reach the whole wing through inspection port,
>tips,
>or
> > > > root. Simple, cheap, less work, made for the job.
> > > >
> > > > John Oliveira
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Frustrated with dial-up? Lightning-fast Internet access for as low as
Message 4
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"Rv8-List" <rv8-list@matronics.com>, "Rv9-List" <rv9-list@matronics.com>,
"Rv-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Quick Fit Tabs for Ground Blocks |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Guys,
Just a quick update. Awhile back people were looking for the ground block
tabs separate from fuse blocks and pre-made ground blocks.
I now have several hundred in stock. They have 10 tabs, (2 double rows of
5), are the 1/4 faston, with holes for mounting to a brass bar, bulkhead,
etc..
Basically, you can "roll your own" ground blocks now, and it's much cheaper
than buying one already made. I thought about making ground blocks, but it's
easier just to sell the tabs, and let the builder make their own if they
like.
They are listed under "Accessories" on my website. Also, under switches
you'll see some new Vinyl Toggle switch boots in 6 colors. They really dress
up the switches nice!
Last thing.....I now have all the 4 conductor shielded wire in stock for the
Dynon Harnesses, and all harnesses/kits from this point forward will be
delivered with Shielded wire as standard.
Happy building and have a great day.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
Message 5
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DNA: not not archive
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Virus Laden Spam Purports To Be From Matronics... |
--> RV9-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Dear Listers,
First let me say that I normally don't condone the sharing of warnings
about Internet viruses on the Matronics Email Lists. I don't want to
start a storm of discussion regarding computer viruses on the Lists, so
please just note the information below and refrain from commenting to
the List. The circumstances I describe below are disturbing enough
that I felt an explanation is necessary. That being said...
There is a new email-bourne virus running rampant on the Internet that
is cleverly disguising itself as legitimate email warning of such
things as:
"your email account is disabled because of unauthorized access"
"Some of our clients complained about the spam (negative e-mail
content) outgoing from your e-mail account"
"Probably, you have been infected by a proxy-relay trojan server. In
order to keep your computer safe, follow the instructions."
"Our main mailing server will be temporary unavailable for next two
days, to continue receiving mail in these days you have to
configure our free auto-forwarding service."
All of these messages include an attachment that you are instructed to
click upon to "Get more information", "clean the virus from your
system", or "check your system for infections".
These enclosures all contain a virus that will infect your system and
propagate even more copies of the original message.
The disturbing part of these messages is that they appear to be coming
from very legitimate addresses and have very legitimate, convincing
dialog. For example, I have received a number of them today that
appear to be from "support@matronics.com", "management@matronics.com",
"administration@matronics.com", and "staff@matronics.com".
The text of the messages seems believable enough, and given the forged
source address, seem even more legitimate.
Please be assured that no one at Matronics.com will be sending you
these kinds of messages. If you receive one, it is a spam/virus that
has forged headers and was sent to you from someone other than
Matronics. Delete the message and the attachment promptly. Invest in
a copy of Norton Antivirus and keep the definitions up dated on a daily
basis.
Again, I want to stress that I *DO NOT* want a big discussion of
viruses on the Matronics Email Lists. Please do not reply to this
email with any comments. You may write to me directly at
dralle@matronics.com if you wish, but do not include the List.
Since many of these appear to come from matronics.com, I wanted to
assure everyone that Matronics wasn't the real source of these messages.
Let's be careful out there and keep those virus definitions up to date!
Today alone, the Matronics spam filter and virus blocking appliance
has filtered out 11,550 spam messages and 375 viruses! That's just in
an 18 hour period!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
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