Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:24 AM - (Roger Crandell)
2. 07:47 AM - Re: FW: dimpling (tchoug@micron.com)
3. 07:48 AM - Re: dimpling (Bill Ervin)
4. 08:34 AM - Re: FW: dimpling (Richard Tasker)
5. 08:52 AM - Re: FW: dimpling (tchoug@micron.com)
6. 09:20 AM - Re: FW: dimpling (DThomas773@aol.com)
7. 08:16 PM - empennage question (G B)
Message 1
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rv8-list@matronics.com, rv9-list@matronics.com
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Roger Crandell" <rwc000@hotmail.com>
Can anyone recommend a source for a two port (two transducer) manifold?
Van's sells a three port unit, but I only need two ports. I could cut off
one port on the Van's unit, but would rather not do that.
Thanks Roger Crandell
Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral.
Message 2
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--> RV9-List message posted by: tchoug@micron.com
I also built a five legged workbench with a built in recess for the
C-frame. The fifth leg is directly under the C-frame to provide support
for the pounding that it will take. It also has a sacrificial work
surface that can be drilled into and clecod to also.
Here's a tip when using the C-frame for dimpling . . . It sounds like
some people are dimpling with the face (outside surface) up which
requires careful alignment and holding the male dimple die in the hole
by hand. I've always dimpled with the face down and the male die in the
bottom of the C-frame. You simply slide the sheet over the male die and
let it protrude through the hole. Then you can strike the dimple without
having to hold the dies in alignment. With this method I generally use
two hits to form a good dimple. The first is a lighter hit that forms
70-80% of the dimple and is less likely to cause radial cracks in the
aluminum. The second hit is firmer and forms a nice clean dimple.
Todd Houg
Fuselage just about ready to flip right side up!
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Repucci [mailto:bill@repucci.com]
Subject: RV9-List: FW: dimpling
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com>
I thought I would forward this on for the others to follow. The picture
should help everyone understand how to get good dimples and as Tad said,
us a good hammer and hit each hole only once and hit it hard.
Bill R.
RV-9
SN: 90737
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Repucci [mailto:bill@repucci.com]
Subject: RE: dimpling
Randy,
Not a problem, the trick is to build some small tables that will rest on
either side of the C frame so the surface is level or just a little
above the height of the dimple die. If you don't do this you will put
smiley faces around each dimple because the skin isn't level. Then
lower the dimple by hand and hold it down in each hole before hitting it
with the hammer. If you don't do this, there is a good chance you will
miss the hole and punch a new one in the wrong place. (Don't ask how I
know this!)
See the picture on my web site:
http://www.repucci.com/bill/images/Dimpling%20the%20left%20HS%20skin001.
jpg
This should help explain how it works.
Bill R.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy [mailto:rer51@lincsat.com]
Subject: dimpling
I am also a newbie. I have the hs to the point of dimpling and
riveting. I have looked at the dimpler riveter, and I am absolutely
perplexed on how to use it without damaging the other surface of the hs
skins. It appears that the stand would sit directly on the other
surface while dimpling the one side. I am a retired tool and die guy,
and this apparatus isn't logical to me. I looks like it would work on
the edges, but on the deep parts where the skin curves... HELP!!! Randy
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Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: Bill Ervin <n57wc@yahoo.com>
If you haven't bought a C-frame yet check into
Experimentalaero.com, the DRDT-2. Its does great
dimples and makes a lot less noise (None) Its also
easier to control the metal sheet and dimple at the
same time.
Bill
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: FW: dimpling |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
tchoug@micron.com wrote:
>I've always dimpled with the face down and the male die in the
>bottom of the C-frame. You simply slide the sheet over the male die and
>let it protrude through the hole. Then you can strike the dimple without
>having to hold the dies in alignment. With this method I generally use
>two hits to form a good dimple. The first is a lighter hit that forms
>70-80% of the dimple and is less likely to cause radial cracks in the
>aluminum. The second hit is firmer and forms a nice clean dimple.
>
>
Be careful when doing this without holding the dimple die down. I did
it your way at first and discovered that the male die was not always
centered relative to the female die - causing wear on each die. I
suspect this was due to slight play in the bronze bushing holding the
vertical rod that the female die was in. Also, hitting it any way but
perfectly vertically would guarantee that any play would make the dies
hit slightly off center. If you choose to do it this way, make sure
that there is an absolute minimum amount of clearance between the two
dies - just enough to get the aluminum sheet between them.
Now I still put the male die on the bottom, but I also now hold the dies
together before I make the hit.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Message 5
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--> RV9-List message posted by: tchoug@micron.com
That's a good point Dick, I do adjust the slider shaft with the female
die to float just above the work. I have noticed a bit of wear on the
tip of the male die from slightly off center strikes, but nothing that
effects the formation of the dimple. This has worked well for me with
98% of the dimpling behind me now - Yeah!!!
Todd
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Tasker [mailto:retasker@optonline.net]
Subject: Re: RV9-List: FW: dimpling
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
tchoug@micron.com wrote:
>I've always dimpled with the face down and the male die in the bottom
>of the C-frame. You simply slide the sheet over the male die and let it
>protrude through the hole. Then you can strike the dimple without
>having to hold the dies in alignment. With this method I generally use
>two hits to form a good dimple. The first is a lighter hit that forms
>70-80% of the dimple and is less likely to cause radial cracks in the
>aluminum. The second hit is firmer and forms a nice clean dimple.
>
>
Be careful when doing this without holding the dimple die down. I did
it your way at first and discovered that the male die was not always
centered relative to the female die - causing wear on each die. I
suspect this was due to slight play in the bronze bushing holding the
vertical rod that the female die was in. Also, hitting it any way but
perfectly vertically would guarantee that any play would make the dies
hit slightly off center. If you choose to do it this way, make sure
that there is an absolute minimum amount of clearance between the two
dies - just enough to get the aluminum sheet between them.
Now I still put the male die on the bottom, but I also now hold the dies
together before I make the hit.
Dick Tasker, 90573
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: FW: dimpling |
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
I agree with Dick. It is better to bring the dies together with hand
pressure before the hammer comes down. I found also, if you have the male die
on the
bottom, you need to exercise care not to let the aluminum slide over the male
pilot. It will scratch the BeJesus out of your alclad.
Dennis Thomas
Message 7
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| Subject: | empennage question |
--> RV9-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
Hello,
I need help right off the bat with the RV-9 empennage!
There are three small holes punched into the HS-907 doubler plate that
are
NOT in the HS-902 front spar. I am assuming that the hole nearest the
center
of the spar is the 'alignment' hole for the two angles I have to make.
What are the two other holes for, or, asked in another way, why are they
not punched through? They look like they are along the top edge of the
spar, not the bottom.
Can you help me clear this up?
Thanks,
Glen
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