Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:53 AM - Re: Nosewheel fairing (Albert Gardner)
2. 10:12 AM - Re: Nosewheel fairing (Gary)
3. 02:31 PM - HS jig block (G B)
4. 02:37 PM - Re: HS jig block (Glenn Brasch)
5. 02:43 PM - Re: HS jig block (Glenn Brasch)
6. 02:51 PM - Re: HS jig block (Mike Hoover)
7. 06:23 PM - Re: Nosewheel fairing (Ernest Kells)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel fairing |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
Concerning the finished aircraft:
I found at gross weight it's possible to bump the tail tiedown ring when
landing. Fortunately, the rudder doesn't hit, only the tiedown ring. Also,
crawling back into the tail cone on the ground requires the tail be
supported since it wants to tip back. And of course, if your passenger puts
his weight on the step at the same time you do, it will tip back. The
finished aircraft is very easy to maneuver by one person at the tail.
My a/c has an O-320 and during construction I don't remember finding it too
difficult to raise the nose by pushing down on the tail even with the emp
off. It may have taken two of us but I don't think so.
I made no provision for checking tire air pressure with the pants on.
Sometimes I wish I had and sometimes it isn't a big deal.
Albert Gardner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
> Thanks guys, your input together with some thinking makes me realise I
have
> made a mistake and the noseleg was not fully 'relaxed' when i drilled the
> forward brackets. Relatively easy to correct.
>
> I dont like the idea of jacking on the firewall. Any reason why I should
not
> jack on the edge of the sump if I spread the load with a block of wood?
>
> (Albert - I am amazed you can easily get the nose off the ground on the
> finished aircraft. Its as heavy as hell right now!)
>
> Thanks all, Steve.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel fairing |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9@3rivers.net>
Steve.......I put a low clearance floor jack under the nose wheel pivot point.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Sampson
To: rv9-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 12:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Nosewheel fairing
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Thanks guys, your input together with some thinking makes me realise I have
made a mistake and the noseleg was not fully 'relaxed' when i drilled the
forward brackets. Relatively easy to correct.
I dont like the idea of jacking on the firewall. Any reason why I should not
jack on the edge of the sump if I spread the load with a block of wood?
(Albert - I am amazed you can easily get the nose off the ground on the
finished aircraft. Its as heavy as hell right now!)
Thanks all, Steve.
PS Will I EVER get this finished???????
Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
Hello,
They say that the only stupid question is one not asked...
In that vein...
There is a wide blue outline on my plywood HS jig. Do I cut on the
inside of the wide mark, or on the
outside? Yes is not a good answer ;-)
Thanks,
Glen
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: HS jig block |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Yes..... The jig is not that precise, but if it makes you feel better, cut
on the outside, then if it's not to your liking, you can trim it again.
Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, fuselage ordered.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "G B" <microsys@alltel.net>
Subject: RV9-List: HS jig block
> --> RV9-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> They say that the only stupid question is one not asked...
>
> In that vein...
>
> There is a wide blue outline on my plywood HS jig. Do I cut on the
> inside of the wide mark, or on the
> outside? Yes is not a good answer ;-)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glen
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: HS jig block |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
PS: I meant cut on the inside, then trim out....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: HS jig block
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
> Yes..... The jig is not that precise, but if it makes you feel better,
cut
> on the outside, then if it's not to your liking, you can trim it again.
> Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings, fuselage ordered.
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "G B" <microsys@alltel.net>
> To: "RV9 List" <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV9-List: HS jig block
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > They say that the only stupid question is one not asked...
> >
> > In that vein...
> >
> > There is a wide blue outline on my plywood HS jig. Do I cut on the
> > inside of the wide mark, or on the
> > outside? Yes is not a good answer ;-)
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Glen
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: HS jig block |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Mike Hoover" <mikehoover@sc.rr.com>
Glen,
I can't remember how thick the line is, but I cut mine down the middle. I
had about 1/8" of the mark left on the cut out piece. This is not critical.
The jig is just to hold the skin close to something like the final shape of
the HS leading edge so you don't have to fight it while working with it.
Hope this helps.
Mike
SC
90709 wings...fuel tank - proseal...yeehigh!
----- Original Message -----
From: "G B" <microsys@alltel.net>
Subject: RV9-List: HS jig block
> --> RV9-List message posted by: G B <microsys@alltel.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> They say that the only stupid question is one not asked...
>
> In that vein...
>
> There is a wide blue outline on my plywood HS jig. Do I cut on the
> inside of the wide mark, or on the
> outside? Yes is not a good answer ;-)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Glen
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel fairing |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
> Concerning the finished aircraft........
> I made no provision for checking tire air pressure with the pants on.
> Sometimes I wish I had and sometimes it isn't a big deal. Albert Gardner
>
This is easy to do when you need a light job to feel good. I bought the
Camloc Access Doors for each wheel pant. See Page 103 of the ACS catalogue
(part # KM713-16-064 - $9.70 for each wheel). Drill a hole perpendicular
to the location of the tire valve. File out the hole until the recess on
the camloc fits in the hole - then drill the two rivet holes.
These camlocs provide a flush surface with the wheel fairing as they are
held snug by the spring. Makes checking your tire pressure and adding air a
fast operation - one hand ! ! You just have to move the airplane until the
valve stems line up with the hole.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - electrical, external paint.
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