Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:37 AM - Re: Nosewheel fairing / Tyre pressure (Larry PERRYMAN)
2. 12:30 PM - Re: Nosewheel fairing / Tyre pressure (Andy Karmy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Nosewheel fairing / Tyre pressure |
03/15/2004 03:37:34 PM,
Serialize complete at 03/15/2004 03:37:34 PM
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Larry PERRYMAN" <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
Steve,
A 3/8 inch nut driver (like a socket on an extension with a screwdriver
like handle - all in one) or any metric one that will fit tightly on the
cap. You can then unscrew it and air the tire up.
I cut about 1.25 inch holes in my wheel pants with a hole saw at the point
where the valve stem was in the 9 o'clock position. I then used the piece
I cut out to make a door in the wheel pants. You will need a piece of some
springy steel. I used the saw blade from a saber saw (the kind that the
blade sticks out front and is about 1 inch wide by 6 inches long. The
metal cutting ones have smaller teeth to grind off.) for the spring. Grind
off the teeth so you have nice dull edged spring.
You can drill and install a plate nut about 1 inch from the end of the
blade. I thought it would be hard to drill but a sharp bit went right
through it. On the other end, rivet the piece of the wheel pants that you
cut out and an aluminum plate that is bigger than the cut out for a
backing plate on the side opposite the plate nut. You can then position
the whole thing inside the wheel pants so that the hole is now filled up
again. With a light source inside the wheel pants, you can see where to
drill for the plate nut. I put another plate inside the wheel pants where
the plate nut goes for a wear plate and attached it with a rivet or two to
the wheel pants so it would not turn as you slide the little door open.
Now put a pan head screw into the plate nut and tighten until you can
slide the door open with a little force. You now have a hole that will
allow you to air up the tire and still give a smooth appearance to the
wheel pants.
Use a screwdriver in the screw to bring the door back closed after airing
up the tire.
If you want to get fancy, you can use some fiberglass to fill the area
where the hole saw cut the plug out of the wheel pants and make it an even
tighter fit and to fill up the hole in the middle where the pilot drill
was. It is up to you.
Regards,
Larry Perryman
N194DL
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel fairing / Tyre pressure |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
Steve,
You hit directly on the head with your assumption. I only added the
nutplates to be able to remove the part without taking the wheel off.
For air duty I have those ACS spring loaded doors. You can get a 6 inch
valve stem extension from a truck repair shop, or like I did from
Cleveland Tool. Then you use a hex valve stem cover, take it off with a
nut driver, screw on the extension, air up or check the pressure, all
through the little spring loaded door. Works great.
What works even better for my main tires I replaced the tubes with
"AIRSTOP" tubes and now I don't need the little doors anymore as the
tubes don't leak air at all.
- Andy Karmy
andy@karmy.com
On Mar 14, 2004, at 10:52 AM, Steve Sampson wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
> <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
> It raises another question which a couple have touched on, and that is
> how
> to check and maintain tyre pressure. Andy K's solution of nutplates
> would be
> the path I would take if I was building it again, but having riveted
> and
> bonded the main support brackets in, I do not want to break them out.
> Ernest's little ACS door looks useful, but I still do not see a) how I
> am
> going to get the valve cover off/on through a 1" hole, and b) unless I
> can
> find an unusually long valve extension an air line onto the valve.
>
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