Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:27 AM - Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Roger Evenson)
2. 08:05 AM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Bob Kelly)
3. 09:52 AM - Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix (Richard Scott)
4. 12:21 PM - Re: Airbox (Steve Sampson)
5. 03:46 PM - W919 (MICK MULLER)
6. 03:51 PM - Re: W919 (Glenn Brasch)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
While helping a friend (previous friend?), I dropped a bucking bar inside the wing
near the leading edge, and left two noticeable dings. Surely this isn't
the first time this has happened.
Other than starting over with the new skin, do you have any suggestions for a fix?
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Bob Kelly <mmpi@missionmedia.org>
Roger,
I had a few of these (of which I am not proud) that I worked out with a
little care. Search on "paintless dent removal" and you should be able to
find some info. Basically, you can use a soft tool (wood or plastic works
well) and patience to rub on the "high" side of the bump. Start at the
very edge of the bump, not the center. Use strong light and watch the
opposite side as you work. If it isn't too bad, you can remove all or most
of the dent. My 75 pound Lab put a paw print in a rudder skin (don't ask
why it was on the floor in the living room) and it came out so well I can't
find it now. Took about half an hour. BTW, the dog is still alive.
Bob Kelly, Wings
90854
On 03/24/04, Roger Evenson wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> While helping a friend (previous friend?), I dropped a bucking bar inside
> the wing near the leading edge, and left two noticeable dings. Surely this
> isn't the first time this has happened.
>
> Other than starting over with the new skin, do you have any suggestions
> for a fix?
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Dropped bucking bar--Need ding fix |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Roger,
On flat or near flat surfaces I have had good luck using a rivet gun with a
flush set, and of course a bucking bar on the back side. Turn the pressure
way down. Result was not perfect, but good enough that a minimal amount of
Bondo would fix just fine. Practice on scrap first.
Richard Scott
9A, Still on emp--very slow , but somewhat steady
At 08:04 AM 3/24/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Bob Kelly <mmpi@missionmedia.org>
>
>Roger,
>
>
>I had a few of these (of which I am not proud) that I worked out with a
>little care. Search on "paintless dent removal" and you should be able to
>find some info. Basically, you can use a soft tool (wood or plastic works
>well) and patience to rub on the "high" side of the bump. Start at the
>very edge of the bump, not the center. Use strong light and watch the
>opposite side as you work. If it isn't too bad, you can remove all or most
>of the dent. My 75 pound Lab put a paw print in a rudder skin (don't ask
>why it was on the floor in the living room) and it came out so well I can't
>find it now. Took about half an hour. BTW, the dog is still alive.
>
>Bob Kelly, Wings
>90854
>
>On 03/24/04, Roger Evenson wrote:
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> >
> > While helping a friend (previous friend?), I dropped a bucking bar inside
> > the wing near the leading edge, and left two noticeable dings. Surely this
> > isn't the first time this has happened.
> >
> > Other than starting over with the new skin, do you have any suggestions
> > for a fix?
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Leland - I did not see any reply to you on this so I will give it my best
shot.
The way I have taken this is that the cowl has to start off dropping
straight down, HOWEVER, after a short way it must move forward for the
airbox to clear the 'lip' above the air inlet in the cowl. By the time it
has dropped this far the front of the cowl should be clear of the spinner
and is free to move further forward. It is tight though and I have not
bolted my prop back on to prove it all works but I am pretty confident it
will. (In fact it can NEVER drop straight down because the hinges must
disengage first - but that is a bit pedantic.)
The 'gotcha' I nearly was trapped by was very little space for the hot air
door fore and aft. To ease the cowl removal you want the neck on the front
of the air box as short as possible, however you need to be sure you have
enough space left to fit the door. I was surprised that you had a potential
door/filter interference. Mine are far apart.
The question I am struggling with is how you arrange the seals on the air
box/cowl junction. My plan is a 'U' shaped bit around the sides and bottom
of the air inlet, and a horizontal piece across the top of the air box. All
input welcome on that.
Its pretty clear the bloke that wrote the -9a build docs has not built one.
I was interested by a friends comment who has a -6 and is building a -9a
that although the kit is much better the instructions are much worse.
Steve
#90360
UK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leland
Subject: RV9-List: Airbox
--> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
I am having trouble fabricating the airbox with all of Van's required
items, which are: airbox short enough so lower cowl can be dropped
straight down (with prop in place), an upward bend in the top plate so
incoming air makes a smoother transition, room for the rubber baffle
seal material to be riveted on, and enough length so the carb-heat door
can swing back without hitting the filter. I have an O320D1A (new engine
from Van's) with a fixed pitch prop. A constant speed prop installation
would not present as much difficulty with the airbox because its cowling
is longer. Did anybody else have this problem with the airbox?
Leland in Pleasanton, California
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV9-List message posted by: "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM@bigpond.com>
Greetings Listers, I am about to start on the W919. The instructions say to
get the specs from drawing 9. The drawing says what to make it from , but
does not specify a length. Do I assume that it finishes level with the
leading edge skin? It only protrudes about 3/4 of an inch either top and
bottom, so I could tuck it underneath the 904/905 skins if it is not
supposed to be trimmed.
Thanks,
Mick Muller
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
I cut mine to 28 3/4" and they worked fine.
Glenn in Arizona -9A wings, fuselage ordered.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM@bigpond.com>
Subject: RV9-List: W919
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM@bigpond.com>
>
> Greetings Listers, I am about to start on the W919. The instructions say
to
> get the specs from drawing 9. The drawing says what to make it from , but
> does not specify a length. Do I assume that it finishes level with the
> leading edge skin? It only protrudes about 3/4 of an inch either top and
> bottom, so I could tuck it underneath the 904/905 skins if it is not
> supposed to be trimmed.
> Thanks,
> Mick Muller
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|