Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:02 AM - Re: W919 (Ernest Kells)
2. 04:09 PM - Re: RV9-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 03/24/04 (Rudy Doerwald)
3. 07:11 PM - ExperimentalAero Website and Email (Merems)
Message 1
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
I cut the W919 strips a little on the long side. I did the final cutting
after the W919 strips were dimpled and clecoed in place with the wing
leading edge (fully riveted on the spar) and the fuel tank (clecoed and
temporarily attached to the spar). I wanted all three things to fit
beautifully as it would be very noticeable - I "may" have been overly
concerned but I would do the same again.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90% Complete - Electrical and Final Paint
>
> I cut mine to 28 3/4" and they worked fine....Glenn in Arizona -9A wings
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "MICK MULLER" <MULLERPHARM@bigpond.com>
> >
> > Greetings Listers, I am about to start on the W919. The instructions
say
> to
> > get the specs from drawing 9. The drawing says what to make it from ,
but
> > does not specify a length. Do I assume that it finishes level with the
> > leading edge skin? It only protrudes about 3/4 of an inch either top and
> > bottom, so I could tuck it underneath the 904/905 skins if it is not
> > supposed to be trimmed.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV9-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 03/24/04 |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Rudy Doerwald <rudy@doerwald.net>
Steve Sampson, I would advise against putting the seal in a "U" around
the cowl inlet. I was very close to doing this myself just a few weeks
ago.It would have been perfect for dropping and lowering the cowl, but
at closer inspection I saw that there would no longer be a smooth
transition to the air box. Any engine sag or movement and the incoming
air could easily go under or beside the lip of the airbox. I put the
seal all around on the air box only, as per the plans, and the results
were very good.
Rudy Doerwald
90529
Canada
>
>________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
>Time: 12:21:15 PM PST US
>From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>Subject: RE: RV9-List: Airbox
>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
>Leland - I did not see any reply to you on this so I will give it my best
>shot.
>
>The way I have taken this is that the cowl has to start off dropping
>straight down, HOWEVER, after a short way it must move forward for the
>airbox to clear the 'lip' above the air inlet in the cowl. By the time it
>has dropped this far the front of the cowl should be clear of the spinner
>and is free to move further forward. It is tight though and I have not
>bolted my prop back on to prove it all works but I am pretty confident it
>will. (In fact it can NEVER drop straight down because the hinges must
>disengage first - but that is a bit pedantic.)
>
>The 'gotcha' I nearly was trapped by was very little space for the hot air
>door fore and aft. To ease the cowl removal you want the neck on the front
>of the air box as short as possible, however you need to be sure you have
>enough space left to fit the door. I was surprised that you had a potential
>door/filter interference. Mine are far apart.
>
>The question I am struggling with is how you arrange the seals on the air
>box/cowl junction. My plan is a 'U' shaped bit around the sides and bottom
>of the air inlet, and a horizontal piece across the top of the air box. All
>input welcome on that.
>
>Its pretty clear the bloke that wrote the -9a build docs has not built one.
>I was interested by a friends comment who has a -6 and is building a -9a
>that although the kit is much better the instructions are much worse.
>
>Steve
>#90360
>UK
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Leland
>Subject: RV9-List: Airbox
>
>
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Leland <Federigo@pacbell.net>
>
>I am having trouble fabricating the airbox with all of Van's required
>items, which are: airbox short enough so lower cowl can be dropped
>straight down (with prop in place), an upward bend in the top plate so
>incoming air makes a smoother transition, room for the rubber baffle
>seal material to be riveted on, and enough length so the carb-heat door
>can swing back without hitting the filter. I have an O320D1A (new engine
>from Van's) with a fixed pitch prop. A constant speed prop installation
>would not present as much difficulty with the airbox because its cowling
>is longer. Did anybody else have this problem with the airbox?
>Leland in Pleasanton, California
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>
>---
>
>
>_
>
>
>
Message 3
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<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>, <rv7-list@matronics.com>,
<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>, "RV10 Group" <RV10@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | ExperimentalAero Website and Email |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
ExperimentalAero's website and email have been having connection problems for the
last few weeks. The site and email has switched to a new server and should
be more reliable.
For those who have tried to email ExperimentalAero and haven't received any reply
it is due to the intermittent loss of service. Please try again now that EA
is on a new server. You don't want to miss out on the new DRDT-2 dimpling tool.
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