Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 09:40 AM - Rivet Sets (D, C, Jones)
     2. 09:47 AM - Re: Rivet Sets (DThomas773@aol.com)
     3. 10:03 AM - rivet set (GB)
     4. 10:13 AM - Re: rivet set (DThomas773@aol.com)
     5. 10:37 AM - Re: Rivet Sets (Paul Eastham)
     6. 10:40 AM - Re: rivet set (Michael Schipper)
     7. 10:53 AM - Re: rivet set (Dave Nicholson)
     8. 10:54 AM - Re:EFIS (Neilekins@aol.com)
     9. 11:17 AM - Re: rivet set (Richard Tasker)
    10. 02:12 PM - Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. (Steve Sampson)
    11. 03:17 PM - Re: Rivet Sets (Roger Evenson)
    12. 05:21 PM - Re: Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. (Dale Larsen)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: "D, C, Jones" <chaseglass@look.ca>
      
      Is there any special rivet set required for doing wings and fuselage on RV9A?
      Does anyone have one for sale?  I'm also looking for a straight hand seamer - not
      off set.
      
      Thanks.
      Cliff
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
      
      To rivet the ribs to the main and rear spars you will need an offset, rivet 
      set.  If you have not used an offset before, I would advise you to practise 
      with it before attempting to use it on your airplane.  Don't ask me why I say 
      this.
      They are not expensive.
      Dennis Thomas
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: GB <microsys@alltel.net>
      
      I have heard that there is a non-standard, deeper set for rivets where 
      you have proseal on them.
      If true, I would also like to know where to get them, for my wings will 
      be shipped in a few weeks.
      
      Glen
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
      
      Hi Glen,
      You may be thinking of a countersink.  The only place I remember setting 
      rivets in proseal are in control surface trailing edges and in the fuel tanks.
      
      These are all flush rivets and of course would be driven with a standard flush
      
      set.  Cleveland Tool Co does sell a counter sink cutter just for these rivets.
      
      It cuts just a bit larger countersink to allow for the thickness of the 
      proseal.  
      I did not buy this cutter until after I started my first tank.  I very 
      carefully countersunk the tank skins to good, dry fit, for the rivets.  However
      
      after setting the rivets, in proseal, they were all high.  At that point there
      
      wasn't much I could do but leave them or grind them down.
      
      Dennis
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
      
      You can also use a long set (~12") to get those flanges instead of the offset.
      I find it a bit more stable and there are no problems with rotation.
      
      I also bought a 10-degree angled set for the flap attach brackets.  I couldn't
      get the job done with any of the usual sets.
      
      Paul
      http://hmb.dyndns.org/~eastham/rv
      
      On Tue, Jun 01, 2004 at 12:46:47PM -0400, DThomas773@aol.com wrote:
      > --> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
      > 
      > To rivet the ribs to the main and rear spars you will need an offset, rivet 
      > set.  If you have not used an offset before, I would advise you to practise 
      > with it before attempting to use it on your airplane.  Don't ask me why I say
      
      > this.
      > They are not expensive.
      > Dennis Thomas
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike@learningplanet.com>
      
      Glen,
      
      You can order these from Cleveland Tools.
      
      http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/home.asp
      
      I ordered a set just last week, so I can't say how they work, but they 
      apparently do what they are supposed to do. Here is a link to a review 
      done by Sam Buchanan:
      
      http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tankdies.html
      
      Have Fun!
      
      Mike Schipper
      -9A Wings
      http://www.my9a.com
      
      
      On Jun 1, 2004, at 12:02 PM, GB wrote:
      
      > --> RV9-List message posted by: GB <microsys@alltel.net>
      >
      > I have heard that there is a non-standard, deeper set for rivets where
      > you have proseal on them.
      > If true, I would also like to know where to get them, for my wings will
      > be shipped in a few weeks.
      >
      > Glen
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dave Nicholson" <n347sd@insightbb.com>
      
      Cleveland Aircraft Tool (Boone Iowa, www.clevelandtool.com) sells  Tank Dies
      (DIE426-3T)  that are a little deeper than the standard dies.  This provides
      room for the proseal.  I also used them on the inner layers when ever I was
      stacking three or more layers of metal together as this provided a little
      more for seating.
      
      Dave Nicholson
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "GB" <microsys@alltel.net>
      Subject: RV9-List: rivet set
      
      
      > --> RV9-List message posted by: GB <microsys@alltel.net>
      >
      > I have heard that there is a non-standard, deeper set for rivets where
      > you have proseal on them.
      > If true, I would also like to know where to get them, for my wings will
      > be shipped in a few weeks.
      >
      > Glen
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: Neilekins@aol.com
      
      Any one out there useing  a Chelton EFIS ? Or any EFIS....Neil
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
      
      Actually you are both either thinking of the wrong thing or using the 
      wrong words.
      
      What Cleaveland Tool (note correct spelling) sells is dimple dies for 
      the fuel tank.   These are a little larger than the standard dies to 
      allow for the proseal under the heads of the rivets when you assemble 
      the tanks.
      
      You can also use these dies to dimple the bottom parts when  you are 
      connecting two (or more) dimpled parts together to give a little better 
      fit between the top and bottom parts.
      
      Regarding the fuel tank, if you do not want to buy the tank dimple dies, 
      you can also use the standard dimple die and then do a bit of 
      countersinking to the skin dimples so the rivet fits a little below the 
      surface (about 0.007" without the proseal).  Then when you do the final 
      assembly with the proseal, the rivet heads will be flush with the skin 
      like those on other parts of the plane.
      
      Dick Tasker, 90573 Fuselage & finishing
      
      DThomas773@aol.com wrote:
      
      >--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
      >
      >Hi Glen,
      >You may be thinking of a countersink.  The only place I remember setting 
      >rivets in proseal are in control surface trailing edges and in the fuel tanks.
      
      >These are all flush rivets and of course would be driven with a standard flush
      
      >set.  Cleveland Tool Co does sell a counter sink cutter just for these rivets.
      
      >It cuts just a bit larger countersink to allow for the thickness of the 
      >proseal.  
      >I did not buy this cutter until after I started my first tank.  I very 
      >carefully countersunk the tank skins to good, dry fit, for the rivets.  However
      
      >after setting the rivets, in proseal, they were all high.  At that point there
      
      >wasn't much I could do but leave them or grind them down.
      >
      >Dennis
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. | 
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
      
      Has anyone experience of installing the Dynon probe AFTER the bottom skin is
      on? I would be interested in any views as to how best to solve this problem.
      One possibility is to install it on the inspection hatch but I am not too
      keen on that since I worry opening the hatch will upset the pipework.
      
      Thanks Steve.
      
      
      ---
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
      
      A long (12" or so) back rivet set for the top skins works well.
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "D, C, Jones" <chaseglass@look.ca>
      Subject: RV9-List: Rivet Sets
      
      
      > --> RV9-List message posted by: "D, C, Jones" <chaseglass@look.ca>
      >
      > Is there any special rivet set required for doing wings and fuselage on
      RV9A?
      > Does anyone have one for sale?  I'm also looking for a straight hand
      seamer - not off set.
      >
      > Thanks.
      > Cliff
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone. | 
      
      --> RV9-List message posted by: "Dale Larsen" <slickrock@been-there.com>
      
      Steve,
      
      It's not a problem.  You will want to put it in the same bay as the vans
      probe, as there is an access plate there.  Don't put it on the inspection
      plate, put it on the rib on either side. It needs to go next to a rib, on
      the forward side of the spar.  You will need to drill out a few rivets in
      the rib to install it, and plug the hole you drilled for the vans tube.
      Takes about two hours.
      
      Dale
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
      Subject: RV9-List: Dynon probe installation with a 'closed' wing anyone.
      
      
      > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
      <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
      >
      > Has anyone experience of installing the Dynon probe AFTER the bottom skin
      is
      > on? I would be interested in any views as to how best to solve this
      problem.
      > One possibility is to install it on the inspection hatch but I am not too
      > keen on that since I worry opening the hatch will upset the pipework.
      >
      > Thanks Steve.
      >
      >
      > ---
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
 
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