Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:05 AM - How did you buck this rivet? (Richard Scott)
2. 12:25 PM - Re: How did you buck this rivet? pts rule name descri... (BGCrook@aol.com)
3. 12:58 PM - Re: How did you buck this rivet? pts rule name description ---- ---------------------- ------------------------------------------- (D, C, Jones)
4. 01:11 PM - Re: How did you buck this rivet? (Michael Schipper)
Message 1
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| Subject: | How did you buck this rivet? |
pts rule name description
---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Outboard end of elevator, front side of spar, just inside the tip rib. On
the plans there is a rivet designation and arrow pointing to this
particular rivet and it says, "AN426AD4-4.5 spar to skin counterbalance
skin rivets". The one on the front side of the spar, top & bottom is
almost impossible to buck with anything I have, and I do have a fair
selection of bucking bars.
Can squeeze it as you have to go around a corner.
On the right elevator I slid a heavy bar down the leading edge and was able
to reach between the leading edge and the rib with one finger to hold the
bucking bar in place. Didn't work well, vibrated out of place and left an
impression of the rib flange in the skin. I would like to do better on the
left elevator.
How did you guys do it?
I have seen some -9's with a pop rivet here. Which pop rivet is appropriate?
Thanks.
Richard Scott
9A Emp.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: How did you buck this rivet? pts rule name |
descri...
--> RV9-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
I used a MK319-BS pop rivet. This rivet will fit the #40 dimple very well.
Just drill the hole to 7/64 and install pop rivet. It gives you a nice flush
fit. If you don't want to see this rivet, then fill with filler during the final
paint process.
Then again you probably already knew that. :)
Bryon Crook
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: How did you buck this rivet? pts rule name |
description ---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------
--> RV9-List message posted by: "D, C, Jones" <chaseglass@look.ca>
I used a 3/8" wide bar about 8" long and very carefully bucked it. It went
very well. I hate pop rivets! Also, I used solid rivets on the bottom skin
to spar rivets.
My plans call for AN426AD3-4.5, not 4-4.5
Cliff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Scott" <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
description ---- ---------------------- ------------------------------------
-------
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
>
> Outboard end of elevator, front side of spar, just inside the tip rib. On
> the plans there is a rivet designation and arrow pointing to this
> particular rivet and it says, "AN426AD4-4.5 spar to skin counterbalance
> skin rivets". The one on the front side of the spar, top & bottom is
> almost impossible to buck with anything I have, and I do have a fair
> selection of bucking bars.
>
> Can squeeze it as you have to go around a corner.
>
> On the right elevator I slid a heavy bar down the leading edge and was
able
> to reach between the leading edge and the rib with one finger to hold the
> bucking bar in place. Didn't work well, vibrated out of place and left an
> impression of the rib flange in the skin. I would like to do better on
the
> left elevator.
>
> How did you guys do it?
>
> I have seen some -9's with a pop rivet here. Which pop rivet is
appropriate?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Richard Scott
> 9A Emp.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: How did you buck this rivet? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike@learningplanet.com>
Richard,
I "manufactured" a bucking bar from a crowbar I bought at Home Depot. I
sawed off the forks on the hooked end of the crowbar, and after
polishing it I used it to get into the tight space to buck that
troublesome rivet that you refer to. I have a picture on my site at:
http://www.my9a.com/el.asp
Regards,
Mike Schipper
#90768 - Fuel Tanks
www.my9a.com
On Jun 23, 2004, at 12:04 PM, Richard Scott wrote:
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Outboard end of elevator, front side of spar, just inside the tip rib.
On
the plans there is a rivet designation and arrow pointing to this
particular rivet and it says, "AN426AD4-4.5 spar to skin counterbalance
skin rivets". The one on the front side of the spar, top & bottom is
almost impossible to buck with anything I have, and I do have a fair
selection of bucking bars.
Can squeeze it as you have to go around a corner.
On the right elevator I slid a heavy bar down the leading edge and was
able
to reach between the leading edge and the rib with one finger to hold
the
bucking bar in place. Didn't work well, vibrated out of place and left
an
impression of the rib flange in the skin. I would like to do better on
the
left elevator.
How did you guys do it?
I have seen some -9's with a pop rivet here. Which pop rivet is
appropriate?
Thanks.
Richard Scott
9A Emp.
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