RV9-List Digest Archive

Tue 10/19/04


Total Messages Posted: 10



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:21 AM - Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders (John Oliveira)
     2. 07:11 AM - Canopy Drill Bits (Bryan Flood)
     3. 08:11 AM - Re: Canopy Drill Bits (Larry PERRYMAN)
     4. 11:09 AM - Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders (Paul Pflimlin)
     5. 12:58 PM - Re: Canopy Drill Bits (Mike Duiven)
     6. 01:02 PM - Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders (DThomas773@AOL.COM)
     7. 02:42 PM - Re: Canopy Drill Bits (Bob Kelly)
     8. 06:29 PM - Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 10/18/04 (James Murray)
     9. 06:55 PM - Re: Canopy Drill Bits (cgalley)
    10. 08:52 PM - Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders (Albert Gardner)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:21:55 AM PST US
    From: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
    Subject: Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net> Cost against capacitive. All these really cool instruments are great, but shoot cost up in a hurry. Gauges for capacitive are 10x as most are really cool digital. Before you know it you will be into flow sensors and all kinds of stuff. Capacitive are mechanically simple - no moving parts. John Oliveira ----- Original Message ----- From: "Aaron Frechette" <right-stuff@comcast.net> Subject: RV9-List: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Aaron Frechette" > <right-stuff@comcast.net> > > I'm getting ready to order my wing kit and don't have any feelings either > way on what type of fuel level sender to plan for. Anyone out there have > some insight into the pros and cons of capacitive versus float type fuel > level senders? > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:11:26 AM PST US
    From: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Canopy Drill Bits
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com> Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got the plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the holes. I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the regular #30 bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi bits only seem to be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this or just sub the 1/8" bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you really need anyway? I was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and 3/16" bits. Thanks, Bryan http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:11:20 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Canopy Drill Bits
    From: Larry PERRYMAN <larry.perryman@atofina.com>
    21, 2004) at 10/19/2004 05:11:07 PM, Serialize complete at 10/19/2004 05:11:07 PM --> RV9-List message posted by: Larry PERRYMAN <larry.perryman@atofina.com> Bryan, You need to drill the holes larger than the screws so that the plexi can shrink and expand with heat and cold. Hole it to tight and it will crack. The plexi bits are nothing more than the straight blade tile bits sold at Home Depot and others. Do not use a regular bit as it will tend to bite into the plexi and WILL crack it. The bit will act like a screw. Try some of the excess you cut off the canopy to practice drilling on before you try the actual canopy. See what works for you. Regards, Larry Perryman "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com> Sent by: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com 10/19/2004 09:10 AM Please respond to rv9-list To: rv9-list@matronics.com cc: Subject: RV9-List: Canopy Drill Bits --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com> Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got the plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the holes. I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the regular #30 bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi bits only seem to be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this or just sub the 1/8" bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you really need anyway? I was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and 3/16" bits. Thanks, Bryan


    Message 4


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    Time: 11:09:33 AM PST US
    From: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo@phonewave.net>
    Subject: Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Paul Pflimlin" <pablo@phonewave.net> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Aaron Frechette" <right-stuff@comcast.net> Subject: RV9-List: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders Check with AP/AI's who have to work on and calibrate them. All that I have asked choose the float type. > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Aaron Frechette" <right-stuff@comcast.net> > > I'm getting ready to order my wing kit and don't have any feelings either way on what type of fuel level sender to plan for. Anyone out there have some insight into the pros and cons of capacitive versus float type fuel level senders? > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:58:29 PM PST US
    From: "Mike Duiven" <emduiven@chaffee.net>
    Subject: Re: Canopy Drill Bits
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Mike Duiven" <emduiven@chaffee.net> I believe by RV-9A plans said to drill with #40 bits first through both the plexi and the frame. Countersink appropriate holes to appropriate sizes. Then drill canopy with 5/32" plexi drill - 1/32 greater than the 1/8 #30 drill (+ or - 0.003"). (This gives a little slack for the plexi to move under load. Finally, drill the canopy frame with #30 drill to match size of rivet. Mike Duiven N711ED (Reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com> Subject: RV9-List: Canopy Drill Bits > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com> > > Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got the > plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the holes. > I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the regular #30 > bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi bits only seem to > be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this or just sub the 1/8" > bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you really need anyway? I > was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and 3/16" bits. > > Thanks, > > Bryan > > http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 01:02:16 PM PST US
    From: DThomas773@AOL.COM
    Subject: Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders
    --> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com I chose the basic float type senders and the Van's gauges. The gauges don't begin to register until you have burned down the first 3 to 4 gallons. After that, they seem to be quite accurate, in level flight. If you make a hard turn (especially if not perfectly coordinated), or if you get into real bumpy air, it will disturb the reading for a bit. Dennis Thomas


    Message 7


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    Time: 02:42:21 PM PST US
    From: Bob Kelly <mmpi@missionmedia.org>
    Subject: Re: Canopy Drill Bits
    --> RV9-List message posted by: Bob Kelly <mmpi@missionmedia.org> Bryan, Everyone is right about the holes being oversized. They must be larger or you will have problems, either now or later. You can make a plexi bit out of a regular bit, giving you access to all the sizes you could need. There is no rake on the leading edge of a plexi bit; it is square to the face that you are drilling. If you want to try making one, use a Dremel and basically grind (?dull?) the cutting edge of the bit until the sharp edge is parallel to the centerline of the bit and it doesn't try to "dig in." You won't have to take off all that much. Try the bit on scraps until you are SURE it won't dig in and crack. Plexi bits are about the easiest thing there is to sharpen, and you can use the cheapest bits you can find as plexi won't dull them anyway. I would always opt for "professional" bits, but this has gotten me out of a couple of jams. Bob Kelly, 90854 On 10/19/04, Bryan Flood wrote: > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com> > > Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got the > plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the > holes. I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the > regular #30 bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi > bits only seem to be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this or > just sub the 1/8" bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you > really need anyway? I was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and 3/16" > bits. > > Thanks, > > Bryan


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:29:47 PM PST US
    From: James Murray <jmurraymd@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: RV9-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 10/18/04
    --> RV9-List message posted by: James Murray <jmurraymd@yahoo.com> I installed capacitance senders in both tanks. I also installed the Advanced Control System Engine Monitor. Both tanks were built the same and I made absolutely sure the wiring for the sender was perfect. I never could get the left tank capacitance sender to work. Replaced everything external to the tank and still would not work. Finally, installed a float in that tank. Float works fine in the left tank and the capacitance works fine in the right tank. My opinion, not worth the extra trouble and expense. Go with the floats. Easy to fix when there is a problem. Flying with 80 hours. Jim Murray 90430 --- RV9-List Digest Server <rv9-list-digest@matronics.com> wrote: > * > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================== > > Today's complete RV9-List Digest can also be found > in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes > the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features > Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the > plain ASCII version > of the RV9-List Digest and can be viewed with a > generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-10-18.html > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-10-18.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================ > > > > > RV9-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Mon > 10/18/04: 4 > > > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 08:48 AM - Re: Where to mount the flap foot > pedals. (G B) > 2. 05:04 PM - Re: Where to mount the flap foot > pedals. (Michael Ice) > 3. 05:06 PM - Re: Where to mount the flap foot > pedals. (DThomas773@AOL.COM) > 4. 11:37 PM - Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level > Senders (Aaron Frechette) > > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:48:25 AM PST US > From: G B <microsys@alltel.net> > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Where to mount the flap foot > pedals. > > --> RV9-List message posted by: G B > <microsys@alltel.net> > > Bill, > > I am 6'3", but my sitting height was the maximum the > Air Force allowed. > SO, my legs are more like a six footer. I find that > the most comfortable > position is when your legs make a 90 degree angle. > Stretching out, even > in the car, is uncomforable in the long run I think. > > Glen > wings > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 05:04:49 PM PST US > From: Michael Ice <aurbo@ak.net> > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Where to mount the flap foot > pedals. > > --> RV9-List message posted by: Michael Ice > <aurbo@ak.net> > > Hello, > > What are flap foot pedals? > > Mike > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: G B <microsys@alltel.net> > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Where to mount the flap foot > pedals. > > > --> RV9-List message posted by: G B > <microsys@alltel.net> > > > > Bill, > > > > I am 6'3", but my sitting height was the maximum > the Air Force > > allowed.SO, my legs are more like a six footer. I > find that the > > most comfortable > > position is when your legs make a 90 degree angle. > Stretching > > out, even > > in the car, is uncomforable in the long run I > think. > > > > Glen > > wings > > > > > > _- > > _- > > _- > > _- > > > ======================================================================== > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 05:06:18 PM PST US > From: DThomas773@AOL.COM > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Where to mount the flap foot > pedals. > > --> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com > > I think he means rudder pedals. > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > Time: 11:37:30 PM PST US > From: "Aaron Frechette" <right-stuff@comcast.net> > Subject: RV9-List: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level > Senders > > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Aaron Frechette" > <right-stuff@comcast.net> > > I'm getting ready to order my wing kit and don't > have any feelings either way on > what type of fuel level sender to plan for. Anyone > out there have some insight > into the pros and cons of capacitive versus float > type fuel level senders? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Contributions > any other > === message truncated === __________________________________


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:55:27 PM PST US
    From: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
    Subject: Re: Canopy Drill Bits
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org> A UniBit works very well on Plexiglas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Kelly" <mmpi@missionmedia.org> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Canopy Drill Bits > --> RV9-List message posted by: Bob Kelly <mmpi@missionmedia.org> > > Bryan, > > Everyone is right about the holes being oversized. They must be larger or > you will have problems, either now or later. You can make a plexi bit out > of a regular bit, giving you access to all the sizes you could need. There > is no rake on the leading edge of a plexi bit; it is square to the face > that you are drilling. If you want to try making one, use a Dremel and > basically grind (?dull?) the cutting edge of the bit until the sharp edge > is parallel to the centerline of the bit and it doesn't try to "dig in." > You won't have to take off all that much. Try the bit on scraps until you > are SURE it won't dig in and crack. Plexi bits are about the easiest thing > there is to sharpen, and you can use the cheapest bits you can find as > plexi won't dull them anyway. I would always opt for "professional" bits, > but this has gotten me out of a couple of jams. > > Bob Kelly, 90854 > > On 10/19/04, Bryan Flood wrote: > > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com> > > > > Hello all, drillin through the canopy soon... but I still haven't got the > > plexi bits. The manual says to drill number 30 first then enlarge the > > holes. I have noticed on may builders sites that they just used the > > regular #30 bit, which seems to make sense b/c I notice that the plexi > > bits only seem to be sold in 1/8", 3/16" etc. Did everyone else do this or > > just sub the 1/8" bit then enlarge some holes??? Which Plexi bits do you > > really need anyway? I was just planning to buy QTY:2 of the 1/8" and 3/16" > > bits. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bryan > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:52:01 PM PST US
    From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
    Subject: Re: Capacitive Vs. Float Fuel Level Senders
    --> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net> I have the capacitive tanks and use an EI fuel gage. Couldn't be happier. Also recently installed EI's fuel computer and I'm now even happier than I was. Albert Gardner RV-9A 872RV 300+ hours. Yuma, AZ




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