Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:46 AM - Master clylinder fittings (Steve Sampson)
2. 11:46 AM - Aileron Trailing Edge Construction (Glenn Brasch)
3. 03:57 PM - Re: Master clylinder fittings (Sargentclt@cs.com)
4. 04:04 PM - Pitot Tubing routing-continued (Merems)
5. 04:08 PM - Re: Pitot Tubing routing-continued (Sargentclt@cs.com)
6. 05:16 PM - Re: Master clylinder fittings (DThomas773@AOL.COM)
7. 05:35 PM - Re: Master clylinder fittings (cgalley)
8. 05:38 PM - Re: Master clylinder fittings (cgalley)
9. 05:44 PM - Re: Aileron Trailing Edge Construction (plaurence@the-beach.net)
10. 07:44 PM - Re: Master clylinder fittings (DThomas773@AOL.COM)
11. 09:41 PM - Re: Master clylinder fittings (Boyd Butler)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Master clylinder fittings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
I am trying to get the fluid to stay in the brake syste. (Oh I wish it was
easy as electricity!)
I am now down to one leak but this is not responding to cursing. The fitting
on the low pressure (top) side of one of the master clyinders persists in
weeping. Two questions:
1) I notice in DWG36 dated 7/27/00 the plan indicates I should be using a
brass fitting (F 69-F-04*02). In fact I am using some nylon fittings,
similar to the F271 on the back of the reservoir, and presumably these were
what was supplied but its too long ago to remember. I have no brass parts
left over. Did others get nylon?
2) Anyone had leak problems with these? How to cure. It is very hard to tell
which bit is leaking, probably where the pipe from the reservoir comes in.
Help and moral support needed!
Thanks, Steve.
PS Needless to say every time I go down there I knock the jamjar of brake
fluid over. What fun eh!
---
Message 2
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| Subject: | Aileron Trailing Edge Construction |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
What did you folks do for the aileron trailing edges in terms of using Pro Seal
or epoxy or whatever for finishing your trailing edge riveting? I noticed the
plans do not call for bonding prior to riveting. Your suggestions are appreciated
in advance.
Glenn in Arizona -9A 90623, about to start fuselage.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Sargentclt@cs.com
Steve I had leak problems as well. Here is the fix. The masters cylinders
use brass fittings unless you have dual brakes then the pilot side subs the AN
fittings for one of each left and right top holes. The brass fittings should
be rotated sloooooly and I can't stress that enough one more revolution than
you think it can handle. Slowly so as not to break the fitting or the master
cylinder. You do not need any pipe thread compound as these are pipe thread
and they are tapered. Tighten each fitting one more rotation until it stops
leaking and your done. Finally pump the lines untill all air is gone then pump
some more to ensure its done.
Tad Sargent
Sargentclt(at)CS.com
RV7A
Message 4
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<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>, <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>, <rv7-list@matronics.com>,
<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Pitot Tubing routing-continued |
1.27 SUBJ_HAS_UNIQ_ID Subject contains a unique ID
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
Fellow RV builders,
I am finishing my RV-7 wings and installing the standard pitot tube system. I
emailed the group and received some very good information. Most builders are
using nylon tubing and transitioning from the aluminum tube somewhere in the wing.
However if you follow Van's instructions and use the "center" hole in the
main ribs, the aluminum tubing will block access to the center fuel tank "Z"
bracket bolt, not a good thing. So it appears to me that if you are going to
run the tubing down the "center" hole, you better transition to nylon tubing
before it blocks the bolt. This means you really need to transition to nylon
tubing right behind the AN bulkhead fitting for the pitot tube.
Am I off base?
If I knew of this before I skinned (top skin) my wings, I might have drilled a
tube routing hole further aft in the main rib to accommodate the aluminum tubing.
Paul (RV-4/RV-7A)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Tubing routing-continued |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Sargentclt@cs.com
Paul, if this causes a problem with a bolt, etc then drill a hole and move it
down the rib or around the problem. Personally I moved the pitot holes the
the bottom of the wing to avoid the bellcrank and torque tube. The moral is
its your airplane do what you want within reason. I does not matter where the
holes are. My .02 worth
Tad Sargent
Sargentclt(at)CS.com
RV7A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
Teflon tape is a big help on this little rascals.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
It is even easier without any leaks or twisted off fittings from over
tightening, Use Loctite PST which is a pipe dope with Teflon powder for
ease in turning then there is alphacrocryliate (crazy glue) which sets up
and maintains the "clocking" of your fittings. The Dope part seals and then
doesn't leak. This only works on pipe type taper fittings not the flared
joints which do not use any sealant. If these leak there are small soft
metal "V-seals" that will fix damaged fittings. They go between the nose of
the fitting and the flared tube.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <Sargentclt@cs.com>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Master clylinder fittings
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Sargentclt@cs.com
>
> Steve I had leak problems as well. Here is the fix. The masters
cylinders
> use brass fittings unless you have dual brakes then the pilot side subs
the AN
> fittings for one of each left and right top holes. The brass fittings
should
> be rotated sloooooly and I can't stress that enough one more revolution
than
> you think it can handle. Slowly so as not to break the fitting or the
master
> cylinder. You do not need any pipe thread compound as these are pipe
thread
> and they are tapered. Tighten each fitting one more rotation until it
stops
> leaking and your done. Finally pump the lines untill all air is gone then
pump
> some more to ensure its done.
>
> Tad Sargent
> Sargentclt(at)CS.com
> RV7A
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Just a little piece of Teflon tape in your system can make big problems.
Makes your brakes work weird.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DThomas773@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Master clylinder fittings
> --> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
>
> Teflon tape is a big help on this little rascals.
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trailing Edge Construction |
--> RV9-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
Glenn
Do the same as the instructions for the rudder and elevators.
Use proseal or T-88 or whatever works for you before you rivet the AEX wedge to
the
skins. Actually, I know a couple of builders that got fairly good edges without
bonding the AEX wedge. However, Proseal worked best for me.
Peter
On 30 Oct 2004 at 11:50, Glenn Brasch wrote:
>
> What did you folks do for the aileron trailing edges in terms of using
> Pro Seal or epoxy or whatever for finishing your trailing edge
> riveting? I noticed the plans do not call for bonding prior to
> riveting. Your suggestions are appreciated in advance. Glenn in
> Arizona -9A 90623, about to start fuselage.
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
> ====
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
When I first put my brake sytem together I had multiple leaks. I consulted
my A.I. and he suggested putting Teflon Tape on the fittings. I completely
removed all the the fittings and put them back, using teflon tape. I am now at
140 hours and have had no problems and no leaks. I hear all the horror storys
and warnings about the tape but if you put the tape it on your fittings and not
in your system how can you have a problem? Fix it and get on with it.
Dennis Thomas
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Master clylinder fittings |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Boyd Butler" <linbb@worldnet.att.net>
Little bits of tape can get by the threads and get into your system, take
it from those who have had it happen in hydraulic applications and fuel
systems. Tape should be used for water systems not any hydraulic systems,
that is for teflon paste which also prevents the fittings from galling
during assembly.
-------Original Message-------
From: rv9-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV9-List: Master clylinder fittings
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
When I first put my brake sytem together I had multiple leaks. I consulted
my A.I. and he suggested putting Teflon Tape on the fittings. I completely
removed all the the fittings and put them back, using teflon tape. I am now
at
140 hours and have had no problems and no leaks. I hear all the horror
storys
and warnings about the tape but if you put the tape it on your fittings and
not
in your system how can you have a problem? Fix it and get on with it.
Dennis Thomas
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