Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:37 AM - The List Fund Raiser - Great Gifts! (Matt Dralle)
2. 05:52 AM - Re: Aileron Twist (fcs@jlc.net)
3. 08:48 AM - Re: Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs (Jen Coull)
4. 01:22 PM - CH Products Control Stick Switches Electrical Specifications (Richard Tasker)
5. 03:16 PM - Re: Aileron Twist (Roger Ping)
6. 07:38 PM - Re: Aileron Twist (DThomas773@AOL.COM)
7. 09:07 PM - Re: Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs (Ralph Cloud)
Message 1
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| Subject: | The List Fund Raiser - Great Gifts! |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that we're well into this year's Email List Fund
Raiser! Response has been great so far and there has been a lot of
interest in the Gift options. Speaking of those Gifts, if you haven't
already checked out the nice selection you owe it to yourself to check them
out. They are once again provided by Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com. The gifts this year include the following items:
* List Archive CD
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* 24 Years of the RVator
* Powerplant Video
* Jeppesen VFR Kneeboard
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Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
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Message 2
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "fcs@jlc.net" <fcs@jlc.net>
Glenn, you've been bitten by the classic "straight-but-not-true" bug. You
are correct in your assessment that it will not be lined up when you hang
it on the wing. You will need to drill out the rivets in the innermost and
outermost ribs and possibly even the trailing edge rivets and have at it
again, this time on a perfectly flat surface.
I did the same thing on my first aileron, but I sensed that it was going
bad after a small number of rivets. My solution was to stand the wings on
their nose-stand cradles and build the flaps and ailerons while hinged in
place. This way I could use my fuselage longeron angles as clamps along
the entire trailing edge during construction and be absolutely guaranteed
of straight and true trailing edges. You can still pre-rivet the
stiffeners and forward rows of rivets, but if you clamp them together like
this when you do the trailing edge and end ribs, you should have an easier
time with it. You only need to "tack" a few rivets to set the shape, then
you can remove them to do the final riveting.
In case anyone is wondering, during normal flight maneuvers the ailerons
are so sensitive that I rarely see them move more than about 1/2" up or
down. ...thus a 1/2" twist is an obvious no-go and must be fixed.
Gary
Message 3
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| Subject: | Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jen Coull" <cfiijen@hotmail.com>
Sounds to me like you haven't fluted the ribs or you haven't fluted them
enough.
There may be a small mis-alignment, but you should still be able to get the
cleco
in the hole. Also I did have a single bad rib in my kit, it was stamped
backwards and
all of the "factory flutes" fell right on top of the holes. The flutes
should always be
between rivet holes, never on a hole. Van's promptly replaced my rib, but I
doubt
you got an entire batch of bad ribs.
Jen Coull
Lake Worth, FL
90349 - Tanks
Message 4
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| Subject: | CH Products Control Stick Switches Electrical Specifications |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
There has been discussions about the CH Products control sticks (http://www.chproducts.com/retail/aircraft.html) on the newsgroups lately. I have two of them, but there was a question about what the switch ratings were. I contacted Kevin Williamson of CH
Products and he was kind enough to supply me with a set of sample switches (from
Omron) and the part numbers thereof.
I downloaded the complete data sheet from the web, reviewed the specifications
and then called the Omron factory representative. There are a few minor errors
in the datasheet available on the web, so the rep emailed me the revised (corrected)
sheets. I
also discussed with him the specifications listed and got clarification, although
it turned out that when I received the revised data sheets, the specification
is very clear now.
The bottom line is that the electrical rating for all three different switches
is: 1-50mA, at 5-24V.
The explanation for the ratings is:
1. The lower values (1 mA at 5V) are to make sure that the switch sees enough energy
when switching to keep the contacts clean. Any lower values would not guarantee
that the contacts will always make proper contact over the life of the
switch. If for
some reason the load being switched is too low, a resistor could be added in parallel
with the load to increase the current to at least 1 mA.
2. The higher values (50 mA at 24V) are the maximum values that should be switched
that will not damage the switch. Switching any higher loads will risk damaging
the contacts - either welding them shut or warping them or causing excessive
arc damage - and
will certainly shorten the life of the switch.
3. These ratings are for a resistive load, so if they are to be used with a relay
or motor the contacts MUST be protected with a diode or other type of snubber
network!
Of course, the manufacturer always has a margin in the design so if one chooses
to switch 55mA at 14V (for instance), the switch will probably still have a reasonable
life. However, pushing them to 100 mA or more will definitely shorten
the life and may
result in a catastrophic failure at some point.
These switches are rated for a lot of actuations so their use in an airplane should
be no problem. The hat switches are rated for 300,000 operations (minimum),
the switches on the top face of the stick are rated for 100,000 operations
(minimum) and the
trigger (typically used for push-to-talk) is rated for 1,000,000 operations (minimum).
To put these numbers in perspective, let's assume you make one flight every day
for ten years. For each flight you could use the hat switch to trim the airplane
82 times in each direction, you could actuate the flaps (assuming that is
what you use the two
gray switches on the top of the stick for) 27 times each up and down and you could
push-to-talk 274 times.
I am satisfied that the switches used are as robust as you will find and the ratings
are adequate for the task. Just don't go overboard on what you connect
direct to the switches and your CH Products control stick will have a long and
happy life!
Dick Tasker
Message 5
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Roger Ping" <rpping@qwest.net>
Hi Glenn, the same thing happened to me. Makes you wonder if the
predrilled holes aren't a little off. I did notice the twist before
riveting the other side together on my first one so I broke out some
extra weight (lead bullets) and when I was done it came out pretty
close. As I remember 5/32". I do, although, have noticeable diagonal
wave in the reflection off the bottom skin. I paid very close attention
on my next aileron and still ended up with a very slight twist after
using LOTS of weight. I think when the plans say weight they mean
WEIGHT! I talked to a professional builder in the area and he said
press on. He's seen a lot worse. I guess it's up to you. Shouldn't
cost too much and only a couple of days to build another one if that's
what you choose to do. You can always press on and build another in the
future.
Don't let it get you down. Keep pounding!
Roger Ping
90869 fuselage
Peoria AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Brasch
Subject: RV9-List: Aileron Twist
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
I just completed an aileron. I had no problems whatsoever in the
assembly and took the advice of a fellow builder in the trailing edge,
which came out near perfect and straight. The problem is when I lay the
completed structure flat on a table, one side of the trailing edge is
flush, the other is off the table by almost 1/2". Again, the trailing
edge is straight, and if I push down on it, it brings up a forward
corner. I cannot imagine how this occurred and wondering if anyone else
has had this happen. I can only assume this twist should not be, and if
it stays, the flaps and/or tips will not be aligned properly when
assembled. Your comments are appreciated in advance. Glenn in AZ.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Twist |
--> RV9-List message posted by: DThomas773@aol.com
Hi Glenn,
I had the same problem with my first aileron, sacrificed it and built
another. I thought my problem lay in not having the assembly on a dead flat surface
when I drilled the first ribs to the balance bar.
Dennis
Message 7
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| Subject: | Horizontal Stabilizer Ribs |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ralph Cloud" <rv9ralph@flash.net>
Did you pull the plastic from the skin. When putting the ribs on the inside,
the plastic is enough to keep the ribs from getting into place.
Ralph
Livermore, wings, Fuse enroute
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