Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:36 AM - Re: empennage options (Ernest Kells)
2. 09:55 AM - EZ Pilot servo wing installation (Roger Ping)
3. 10:23 AM - bearing grease (Bryan Flood)
4. 11:17 AM - Trim Cable (D.Munz)
5. 08:11 PM - Fuel tank to main skin gap? (Merems)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: empennage options |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
As a daytime VFR pilot I am a fan of Van's "simple is better" thinking. I
have only PTT buttons on the sticks.
I would normally retrim after each throttle adjustment (take-off, landing,
altitude change, etc). These are times when you don't like to look down to
see what you are doing in the cockpit. Imagine how you hold a target
pistol. When I am holding the throttle in the fingers of my right hand the
pitch trim switch is just in front of my thumb. It is the only rocker
switch beside switches that push (to prime), rotate (to dim), toggle
(flaps), etc.
Sitting in my cockpit making airplane sounds it seems very intuitive, every
time. Requires no hand movement.
----- Original Message -----
From: <plaurence@the-beach.net>
Subject: Re: RV9-List: empennage options
> --> RV9-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
>
> The control switch is usually mounted on the control stick. However, I
prefer to have
> a trim wheel between the seats a la Grumman. This can be accomplished by
using
> Eric Jones's trim wheel that utilizes pulse width modulation to control a
MAC servo.
>
> Check it out on his web site at www.perihelion.com
>
>
> Peter
>
> On 5 Dec 2004 at 19:04, Ron Brown wrote:
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Ron Brown" <brown_rj@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > I am about to place the order for the empennage. Please give some
> > thoughts on the electric elevator trim option. Where is the control
> > switch mounted? Tks Ron
> >
> >
> > advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | EZ Pilot servo wing installation |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Roger Ping" <rpping@qwest.net>
I=92m installing an EZ Pilot servo in my right wing tip, attached to the
last rib inside the wing tip. I=92m trying to figure out how to get from
the small rodend at the servo to a rodend that will attach to the
push-pull tube bolt, =BC=94. If someone has been there before and can give
me the tubing sizes it would save me a lot of time trying to figure out
what tube with what wall thickness will fit into the next tube etc.
Maybe I=92m looking at this wrong.
Thanks in advance.
Roger Ping
90869 working: fuselage, wings, installations=85etc.
Message 3
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Bryan Flood" <bryanflood@hotmail.com>
Has anyone had problems with wheel bearing grease being too thick? I
assembled my wheels last night and used a grease I had on hand labeled "High
temp disk brake bearing grease". It seeemed a little thicker than the stuff
that was on the main wheel bearings as delivered. At any rate I assembled
the wheels and they seems fairly hard to turn. The wheels all turn smoothly
but, It takes at least a few pounds of force on the tire to start them in
motion and there is definitely no "free-wheeling". Are everyones wheels this
stiff or is it just b/c I used thicker grease???
Message 4
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "D.Munz" <182ppl@comcast.net>
Has anyone seen a trim wheel system installed in an RV ala cessna, piper instead
of the vernier control?
Message 5
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<rv8list@yahoogroups.com>, <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>, <rv7-list@matronics.com>,
<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Fuel tank to main skin gap? |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
Fellow builders,
I just placed my finished left fuel tank (RV-7A) on my wing and noticed a gap between
the aft edge of the tank skin and the forward edge of the main skins on
my wing (top and bottom gap equal). I opted to wait to match drill and dimple
the leading edge junction until after sealing the tanks. I have measured the
edge distance of the screw holes in the tank skin and compared this to the center
distance from the nutplate holes (countersinked) to the forward edge of
the main tank skins, both are 5/16". So what this means is that there is a buildup
of tolerances or ProSeal that is pushing the tank forward slightly. I would
say that the gap is approximately 0.040. However the tank to leading edge
junction (at the nose) is pretty much of a perfect match. So the screw holes
in the tank don't line up with the nutplates perfectly. I was generous with
"buttering" the ProSeal on both the "Z" bracket and tank rib aft flanges but
not over generous. I know there is a very thin layer of ProSeal that maybe contributing
to this gap, but not that much. When I built my RV-4 (old school) you
could line everything up without any gaps because you put all the hole. With
the match punched, you can't adjust things at all.
What have other experienced after mounting the tanks.
Paul (RV-4/RV-7A)
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