Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:50 AM - Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal (Brice Bowman)
2. 09:20 AM - Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (Matthew Brandes)
3. 11:03 AM - Re: Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal (owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com)
4. 01:05 PM - Re: Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal (Dennis Thomas)
5. 04:38 PM - Re: Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal (Jim Wright)
6. 06:27 PM - leading edge to fuel tank difference (Michael T. Ice)
7. 06:53 PM - Re: leading edge to fuel tank difference (John Oliveira)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Brice Bowman <brice@earshotaudiopost.com>
From everything I've gathered, the tank dimple dies ARE used on the tank
skin. The alternate method (not using tank dimple dies) indicates a couple
of turns with a de-burring tool in the skin to make room for Pro Seal under
the rivet. After helping a couple of people build tanks, I have learned that
the Pro Seal goes EVERYWHERE...on the rib...on the skin where it contacts
the rib...in the dimple depression before inserting the rivet...and you even
dip the rivet in Pro Seal before inserting and squeezing or bucking.
Brice Bowman
RV-9A Wings
Indianapolis, In
Message 2
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<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame together
and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I
have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs the
side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the passenger
side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and I
really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft edge
lines up nicely.
Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce it?
Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear of
misaligning the holes.
Possible options:
1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the sides to
line up once the canopy is screwed on.
2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency.
(Dangerous!?)
3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that
engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides in
when closed.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal |
--> RV9-List message posted by:
Correct, that is what I did - with Cleaveland tank dies - no leaks, great
smooth finish. Just a word though, before setting the rivet, wipe the
ProSeal off of both ends of the rivet so that the rivet set and bucking bar
should not slip.
Michle
RV8 - Wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brice Bowman
> Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 3:54 PM
> To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV9-List: Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Brice Bowman <brice@earshotaudiopost.com>
>
> From everything I've gathered, the tank dimple dies ARE used on the tank
> skin. The alternate method (not using tank dimple dies) indicates a couple
> of turns with a de-burring tool in the skin to make room for Pro Seal
> under
> the rivet. After helping a couple of people build tanks, I have learned
> that
> the Pro Seal goes EVERYWHERE...on the rib...on the skin where it contacts
> the rib...in the dimple depression before inserting the rivet...and you
> even
> dip the rivet in Pro Seal before inserting and squeezing or bucking.
>
>
> Brice Bowman
> RV-9A Wings
> Indianapolis, In
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Dennis Thomas <dthomas773@sbcglobal.net>
I might add it is good thing to have a good supply of
cleaning material on hand before you start. This will
be one of those jobs you will love when it is
finished.
Denis Thomas
Getting ready to do my first annual
--- owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by:
>
> Correct, that is what I did - with Cleaveland tank
> dies - no leaks, great
> smooth finish. Just a word though, before setting
> the rivet, wipe the
> ProSeal off of both ends of the rivet so that the
> rivet set and bucking bar
> should not slip.
>
> Michle
> RV8 - Wings
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-
> > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brice Bowman
> > Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 3:54 PM
> > To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV9-List: Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal
> >
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: Brice Bowman
> <brice@earshotaudiopost.com>
> >
> > From everything I've gathered, the tank dimple
> dies ARE used on the tank
> > skin. The alternate method (not using tank dimple
> dies) indicates a couple
> > of turns with a de-burring tool in the skin to
> make room for Pro Seal
> > under
> > the rivet. After helping a couple of people build
> tanks, I have learned
> > that
> > the Pro Seal goes EVERYWHERE...on the rib...on the
> skin where it contacts
> > the rib...in the dimple depression before
> inserting the rivet...and you
> > even
> > dip the rivet in Pro Seal before inserting and
> squeezing or bucking.
> >
> >
> > Brice Bowman
> > RV-9A Wings
> > Indianapolis, In
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Tank Dimple Dies & Pro Seal |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jim Wright" <jlwright@cox-internet.com>
I got a tip from a video on building tanks that makes sense. I cut a
bunch of paper shop towels in four pieces or about 4 inch squares. They
were real handy and I didn't waste nearly as many towels. This is one of
those jobs that the cleaner you keep everything the better off you are.
Laying down butcher paper on the table was another good thing. It made
clean up a lot easier. I have finished one tank and I'm not dreading the
other one as much as I thought I would.
Jim Wright RV-9A wings Arkansas
Message 6
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| Subject: | leading edge to fuel tank difference |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo@ak.net>
Hello,
Today I fitted the tanks together and placed them on the main spar. The leading
edge of the tanks are not matching with the leading edges of the outboard leading
edge assemblies. The fuel tank leading edge is approx., the skin thickness,
or 1/32" higher than the other skin. Has anyone else had this problem? What
is a solution?
Mike Ice
RV-9, Wings, slow build
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: leading edge to fuel tank difference |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "John Oliveira" <oliveira@frontiernet.net>
It is natural for the tank skin to be slightly higher as it is thicker sheet
aluminum. It may seem like 1/32 of an inch, but would not be that much.
Not a big deal
John Oliveira
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo@ak.net>
Subject: RV9-List: leading edge to fuel tank difference
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo@ak.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> Today I fitted the tanks together and placed them on the main spar. The
> leading edge of the tanks are not matching with the leading edges of the
> outboard leading edge assemblies. The fuel tank leading edge is approx.,
> the skin thickness, or 1/32" higher than the other skin. Has anyone else
> had this problem? What is a solution?
>
> Mike Ice
> RV-9, Wings, slow build
>
>
>
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