Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:57 AM - Flap actuator center bearing block mounting (Gerry Filby)
2. 11:15 AM - Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting (Jim Streit)
3. 11:40 AM - Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting (Gerry Filby)
4. 12:08 PM - Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting (Jim Streit)
5. 01:10 PM - Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting (Gerry Filby)
6. 03:16 PM - Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting (Jim Streit)
7. 04:33 PM - Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting (Gerry Filby)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
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--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
done here ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
inspections...
Gerry Filby wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
>done here ?
>
>__g__
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
g
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
>
> Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
> to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
> plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
> and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
> No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
> the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
> floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
> inspections...
>
> Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >
> >
> >I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
> >the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
> >the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
> >why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
> >of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
> >washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
> >install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
> >done here ?
> >
> >__g__
> >
> >==========================================================
> >Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> > Tel: 415 203 9177
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
Gerry, If the bolt is coming up through the rib from under the baggage
floor, when you start to tighten the nut, the bolt will turn. How will
you keep the bolt from turning when the floors are already in place
preventing access to the bolt. I installed platenuts rather than rivets
so that I could inspect under the seat and baggage floor to check for
corrosion. I am not talking about the center channel which already has
nut plates giving you access.
Gerry Filby wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
>Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
>tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
>the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
>the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
>nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
>floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
>pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
>used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
>
>Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
>
>g
>
>
>
>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
>>to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
>>plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
>>and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
>>No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
>>the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
>>floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
>>inspections...
>>
>>Gerry Filby wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
>>>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
>>>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
>>>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
>>>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
>>>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
>>>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
>>>done here ?
>>>
>>>__g__
>>>
>>>==========================================================
>>>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
>>> Tel: 415 203 9177
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
The two floor ribs, either side of the control rod tunnel, have
their flanges pointing inwards [shiver runs down spine, runs
out to look at the drawings, phew! I did read the drawings
right]. The bearing block is bolted through this rib flange
and the floor. So you have access to the bolt head from inside
the control rod tunnel which has a removable cover. This is
the same access you would use to rivet on the nutplates since
the instructions have you rivet through the floor and rib after
the floor is installed.
I have already gone with the blind rivets, per the drawings,
for the baggage floors and they are already in place. I admit
that its a nice idea to be able to remove the floors, but I'm
past that stage already and I made sure to Akzo prime the
bottom skin and the ribs, so I'm not overly concerned about
corrosion in this area. Having said that, if I did this again
I would replace those skins with a slightly heavier gauge sheet
- they are real flimsy.
g
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
>
> Gerry, If the bolt is coming up through the rib from under the baggage
> floor, when you start to tighten the nut, the bolt will turn. How will
> you keep the bolt from turning when the floors are already in place
> preventing access to the bolt. I installed platenuts rather
> than rivets
> so that I could inspect under the seat and baggage floor to check for
> corrosion. I am not talking about the center channel which already has
> nut plates giving you access.
>
> Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >
> >
> >Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
> >tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
> >the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
> >the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
> >nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
> >floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
> >pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
> >used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
> >
> >Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
> >
> >g
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >>Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
> >>to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
> >>plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
> >>and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
> >>No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
> >>the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
> >>floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
> >>inspections...
> >>
> >>Gerry Filby wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
> >>>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
> >>>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
> >>>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
> >>>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
> >>>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
> >>>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
> >>>done here ?
> >>>
> >>>__g__
> >>>
> >>>==========================================================
> >>>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> >>> Tel: 415 203 9177
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
Gerry, You are correct. The rib flange is toward the (center) tunnel.
It has been a long time since I worked on the center section of the fuse
and I was thinking the flange was towards the outside.
I live in South Fla and with the high humidity and living so close to
the ocean, corrosion is a big problem . That is why I made all of the
floors removable buy using nut plates.
Gerry Filby wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
>The two floor ribs, either side of the control rod tunnel, have
>their flanges pointing inwards [shiver runs down spine, runs
>out to look at the drawings, phew! I did read the drawings
>right]. The bearing block is bolted through this rib flange
>and the floor. So you have access to the bolt head from inside
>the control rod tunnel which has a removable cover. This is
>the same access you would use to rivet on the nutplates since
>the instructions have you rivet through the floor and rib after
>the floor is installed.
>
>I have already gone with the blind rivets, per the drawings,
>for the baggage floors and they are already in place. I admit
>that its a nice idea to be able to remove the floors, but I'm
>past that stage already and I made sure to Akzo prime the
>bottom skin and the ribs, so I'm not overly concerned about
>corrosion in this area. Having said that, if I did this again
>I would replace those skins with a slightly heavier gauge sheet
>- they are real flimsy.
>
>g
>
>
>
>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Gerry, If the bolt is coming up through the rib from under the baggage
>>floor, when you start to tighten the nut, the bolt will turn. How will
>>you keep the bolt from turning when the floors are already in place
>>preventing access to the bolt. I installed platenuts rather
>>than rivets
>>so that I could inspect under the seat and baggage floor to check for
>>corrosion. I am not talking about the center channel which already has
>>nut plates giving you access.
>>
>>Gerry Filby wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
>>>tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
>>>the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
>>>the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
>>>nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
>>>floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
>>>pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
>>>used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
>>>
>>>Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
>>>
>>>g
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
>>>>
>>>>Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
>>>>to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
>>>>plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
>>>>and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
>>>>No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
>>>>the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
>>>>floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
>>>>inspections...
>>>>
>>>>Gerry Filby wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
>>>>>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
>>>>>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
>>>>>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
>>>>>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
>>>>>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
>>>>>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
>>>>>done here ?
>>>>>
>>>>>__g__
>>>>>
>>>>>==========================================================
>>>>>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
>>>>> Tel: 415 203 9177
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator center bearing block mounting |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
Thanks Jim, I appreciate your taking the time to discuss the
options ...
g
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
>
> Gerry, You are correct. The rib flange is toward the (center)
> tunnel.
> It has been a long time since I worked on the center section of
> the fuse
> and I was thinking the flange was towards the outside.
> I live in South Fla and with the high humidity and living so close to
> the ocean, corrosion is a big problem . That is why I made all of the
> floors removable buy using nut plates.
>
> Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >
> >
> >The two floor ribs, either side of the control rod tunnel, have
> >their flanges pointing inwards [shiver runs down spine, runs
> >out to look at the drawings, phew! I did read the drawings
> >right]. The bearing block is bolted through this rib flange
> >and the floor. So you have access to the bolt head from inside
> >the control rod tunnel which has a removable cover. This is
> >the same access you would use to rivet on the nutplates since
> >the instructions have you rivet through the floor and rib after
> >the floor is installed.
> >
> >I have already gone with the blind rivets, per the drawings,
> >for the baggage floors and they are already in place. I admit
> >that its a nice idea to be able to remove the floors, but I'm
> >past that stage already and I made sure to Akzo prime the
> >bottom skin and the ribs, so I'm not overly concerned about
> >corrosion in this area. Having said that, if I did this again
> >I would replace those skins with a slightly heavier gauge sheet
> >- they are real flimsy.
> >
> >g
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >>Gerry, If the bolt is coming up through the rib from under the baggage
> >>floor, when you start to tighten the nut, the bolt will turn. How will
> >>you keep the bolt from turning when the floors are already in place
> >>preventing access to the bolt. I installed platenuts rather
> >>than rivets
> >>so that I could inspect under the seat and baggage floor to check for
> >>corrosion. I am not talking about the center channel which already has
> >>nut plates giving you access.
> >>
> >>Gerry Filby wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Hmm. If you can't get a wrench on top of the bearing block to
> >>>tighten a nut, how can you do so to tighten down the bolt into
> >>>the platenut ? If I understand you right, you've changed all
> >>>the LP-4 rivets called out for the baggage floors in favor of
> >>>nutlplates and screws ? Why do you need to remove the baggage
> >>>floors for inspection ? The only thing to inspect is the
> >>>pushrod assembly that runs through the tunnel - and that I have
> >>>used platenuts/screws per the drawings.
> >>>
> >>>Not being combative, just trying to understand ...
> >>>
> >>>g
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
> >>>>
> >>>>Gerry, If you do as you propose, how will you get a wrench on the bolt
> >>>>to tighten the nyloc nut on the top side of the bearing block. Nut
> >>>>plates are very easy to install (you only have to install them 1 time)
> >>>>and you don't have to get on both ends of the bolt to tighten. There is
> >>>>No need to get on the other side of the baggage floor to get access to
> >>>>the bolt head. I installed nut plates on all of the seat and baggage
> >>>>floor ribs to make it easy to remove the floor panels for annual
> >>>>inspections...
> >>>>
> >>>>Gerry Filby wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>I'm installing the powder coated flap actuator weldment behind
> >>>>>the seats. The plans call for platenuts on the underside of
> >>>>>the seat rib to secure the center bearing block. I'm wondering
> >>>>>why they don't use a simple nut, bolt and washer. I'm thinking
> >>>>>of just bringing the bolt up from the underside and putting the
> >>>>>washer and nyloc nut on the top. Seems like a lot of effort to
> >>>>>install platenuts for not very much gain. What have others
> >>>>>done here ?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>__g__
> >>>>>
> >>>>>==========================================================
> >>>>>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> >>>>> Tel: 415 203 9177
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
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