Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:11 AM - Leaking tanks (Jef Vervoort)
2. 07:15 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Michael T. Ice)
3. 08:17 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Tim Coldenhoff)
4. 09:03 AM - Gas Tanks (Ken Hoshowski)
5. 10:42 AM - Re: Leaking tanks (Ralph Cloud)
Message 1
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw@telenet.be>
Testing my tanks, air is coming out at the inboard ribs around the outer
side of T-408 cover plate mounted with the T-407 cork gasket.
On one tank at two places between two screws, on the other almost all
around.
I assembled following Vans instructions, but adding a very thin layer of
sealant on both sides of the cork around the inner opening.
I suppose it's not a good solution to just put some sealant or Locktite on
the outer edge of the cover plate + cork to end rib as assembled now.
I would plan to unscrew and clean it, and re-assemble the cover plate
without cork gasket but with a normal layer of sealant?
Should I re-use the screws?
Suggestions or thoughts most welcome.
Jef Vervoort 91031.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo@ak.net>
Jef,
How long did you wait before you tested the tanks with air pressure? How
much air pressure did you use? If the leaks are only in that area where you
describe your solution to take the plates off and reseal them with out
gaskets would work, just use plenty of sealant and give it time to cure.
Yes, you should probably use new screws, or better yet can some stainless
steel cap screws.
Mike Ice
RV-9 91013
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw@telenet.be>
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 5:06 AM
Subject: RV9-List: Leaking tanks
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw@telenet.be>
>
> Testing my tanks, air is coming out at the inboard ribs around the outer
> side of T-408 cover plate mounted with the T-407 cork gasket.
>
> On one tank at two places between two screws, on the other almost all
> around.
>
>
> I assembled following Vans instructions, but adding a very thin layer of
> sealant on both sides of the cork around the inner opening.
>
>
> I suppose it's not a good solution to just put some sealant or Locktite on
> the outer edge of the cover plate + cork to end rib as assembled now.
>
>
> I would plan to unscrew and clean it, and re-assemble the cover plate
> without cork gasket but with a normal layer of sealant?
>
>
> Should I re-use the screws?
>
>
> Suggestions or thoughts most welcome.
>
>
> Jef Vervoort 91031.
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Leaking tanks |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Tim Coldenhoff <rvlist@rv9a.deru.com>
Jef Vervoort wrote:
> Testing my tanks, air is coming out at the inboard ribs around the outer
> side of T-408 cover plate mounted with the T-407 cork gasket.
...
> I would plan to unscrew and clean it, and re-assemble the cover plate
> without cork gasket but with a normal layer of sealant?
I put my cover plates on with NO cork gasket - just a liberal amount of
proseal. No leaks after 1 year of flying.
Recommend you remove the covers, remove all the old proseal, and reseal
with no cork gasket. When you put the screws back in, dip them in
proseal first. Wait at least a week to 10 days before retesting.
Don't use Loctite on a problem that can be "properly" fixed by
resealing, especially if you still building. If the leak is
substantial, it is doubtful the Loctite would do much good anyway.
If you haven't already seen Van's service bulletin on the pick up tubes,
be sure to do this before reassembly.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
N194TC - 2.5L Egg Subaru powered RV9a
http://rv9a.deru.com
Message 4
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ken Hoshowski" <ve7fp@jetstream.net>
Re:gas tank sealing
I have just completed safety wiring the fuel tank nut on my RV6 and a
friend=92s RV9A as per Van=92s safety bulletin.
The simplest way to seal the end plate and sending unit is to use the
cork gasket as supplied using the 12 screws . Install the fuel sender
unit using the supplied rubber gasket and the 5 screws. Hand torque the
screws to be snug trying to be the same all around.
Apply proseal around each screw to about the size of a dime and then put
a bead around the outside edge of the plate and the sender plate. This
has worked for me on my RV6 for many years without a leak and makes for
easier removal if you ever have to remove the plate in the future. I do
not recommend using sealer directly on the plate to tank. You will
likely destroy the plate trying to get it off. I was able to remove the
sender and inspection plate on the 9A without removing the tank. It=92s
tight but I was able to remove enough of the proseal using a =BD inch dull
chisel from around the screws to get the screws out easily and gently
pry the plates off.
I find using a popsicle stick an easy way to apply proseal. Use new
screws, stainless are not necessary.
The best and easiest way to check the tanks for leaks is to use a
balloon (Van lists a tank testing kit). Use a hand pump, do not use
your compressor. Leak test using soapy water.
Ken Hoshowski
RV6
Salmon Arm B.C.
Message 5
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--> RV9-List message posted by: "Ralph Cloud" <rv9ralph@flash.net>
Do not eliminate the cork gasket. If you have to reopen the tanks after
the sealant sets, the cork gasket is the sacraficial element to open. If
you seal metal to metal with sealant (proseal or Permatex Aviation Form
A Gasket Fuel Tank Sealant) you will not be able to open the tank
without damaging metal.
Ralph - wings (tanks) - fuse in the box
Livermore, CA
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Michael T. Ice
> Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 7:14 AM
> To: rv9-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo@ak.net>
>
> Jef,
>
> How long did you wait before you tested the tanks with air
> pressure? How
> much air pressure did you use? If the leaks are only in that
> area where you
> describe your solution to take the plates off and reseal them
> with out
> gaskets would work, just use plenty of sealant and give it
> time to cure.
>
> Yes, you should probably use new screws, or better yet can
> some stainless
> steel cap screws.
>
> Mike Ice
> RV-9 91013
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw@telenet.be>
> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 5:06 AM
> Subject: RV9-List: Leaking tanks
>
>
> > --> RV9-List message posted by: "Jef Vervoort"
> > --> <jef.vervoortw@telenet.be>
> >
> > Testing my tanks, air is coming out at the inboard ribs around the
> > outer side of T-408 cover plate mounted with the T-407 cork gasket.
> >
> > On one tank at two places between two screws, on the other
> almost all
> > around.
> >
> >
> >
> > I assembled following Vans instructions, but adding a very
> thin layer
> > of sealant on both sides of the cork around the inner opening.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suppose it's not a good solution to just put some sealant or
> > Locktite on the outer edge of the cover plate + cork to end rib as
> > assembled now.
> >
> >
> >
> > I would plan to unscrew and clean it, and re-assemble the
> cover plate
> > without cork gasket but with a normal layer of sealant?
> >
> >
> >
> > Should I re-use the screws?
> >
> >
> >
> > Suggestions or thoughts most welcome.
> >
> >
> >
> > Jef Vervoort 91031.
> >
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