RV9-List Digest Archive

Tue 02/27/07


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:22 AM - Re: Instrument panel (Michael T. Ice)
     2. 08:28 AM - Re: Instrument panel (Ronald A. Russ)
     3. 08:35 AM - Re: Instrument panel (Bill Repucci)
     4. 07:40 PM - Re: Instrument panel (WILLIAM AGSTER)
     5. 08:06 PM - Re: Instrument panel (gbrasch@earthlink.net)
     6. 08:11 PM - Re: Instrument panel (Streiker, Stephen D.)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:22:05 AM PST US
    From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo@ak.net>
    Subject: Re: Instrument panel
    Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to cut > as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes through > it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward side > of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I am > building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything with > plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind encoder: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it up, you > will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs and > sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold all the > wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up canopy > fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel centers the > ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the > harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument panel and > the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:28:56 AM PST US
    From: "Ronald A. Russ" <russra@alltel.net>
    Subject: Instrument panel
    Wayine: It's not the length of the radio it's the location in the panel. Purchase the glove box and put it in. That will give you good experience on how to cut the hole. Ron Russ EAA 286 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > -- 2/26/2007 2:56 PM -- 2/26/2007 2:56 PM


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:35:35 AM PST US
    From: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com>
    Subject: Instrument panel
    Thanks Mike. FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a Philips head screw. I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purp ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and remove. Just another tip I thought I would pass along. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:40:16 PM PST US
    From: "WILLIAM AGSTER" <BAGSTERJR@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Instrument panel
    Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you are talking about?? Thanks Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci<mailto:bill@repucci.com> To: rv9-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv9-list@matronics.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:36 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel <bill@repucci.com<mailto:bill@repucci.com>> Thanks Mike. FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a Philips head screw. I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Pur p<http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+P urp> ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie= Yes Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and remove. Just another tip I thought I would pass along. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronic s.com> [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM To: rv9-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv9-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel <aurbo@ak.net<mailto:aurbo@ak.net>> Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com<mailto:bill@repucci.com>> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv9-list@matronics.com>> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel <bill@repucci.com<mailto:bill@repucci.com>> > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg<http://www.repucc i.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg> > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html<http://www.repucci.com/bill/ instruments.html>. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg<http://www.repucci.com /bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg> > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronic s.com> > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv9-list@matronics.com> > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > <wowens@darientel.net<mailto:wowens@darientel.net>> > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV9-List>


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:06:42 PM PST US
    From: gbrasch@earthlink.net
    Subject: Re: Instrument panel
    Ditto for me too... Glenn Brasch, Tucson, Arizona, KRYN. RV-9A Finish kit #90623, 1953 Piper Tri-Pacer Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/ -----Original Message----- >From: WILLIAM AGSTER <BAGSTERJR@msn.com> >Sent: Feb 27, 2007 10:38 PM >To: rv9-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel > >Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you are talking about?? Thanks Bill > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bill Repucci<mailto:bill@repucci.com> > To: rv9-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv9-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:36 AM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > Thanks Mike. > > FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be > easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a > Philips head screw. > > I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: > http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purp<http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purp> > ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes > > Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard > size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. > > I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel > tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and > remove. > > Just another tip I thought I would pass along. > > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com> > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice > Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM > To: rv9-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv9-list@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > Bill, Wayne, > > Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the > wiring > of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on > the > bottom of the ribs. > > Many thanks, > > Mike Ice > wiring done, slider canopy under construction > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com<mailto:bill@repucci.com>> > To: <rv9-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv9-list@matronics.com>> > Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM > Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > > > Wayne, > > > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > > through it. > > > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg<http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg> > > > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html<http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html>. If you blow it > > > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg<http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg> > > > > Good luck, > > Bill > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com> > > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > > To: rv9-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv9-list@matronics.com> > > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > > > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > > just put up with > > > > offset instruments? > > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > > panel and the > > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > > bulkhead. > > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > > > Wayne Owens > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV9-List> > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:11:43 PM PST US
    Subject: Instrument panel
    From: "Streiker, Stephen D." <steve@streiker.com>
    If you paste both halves of the link together in the URL line of the brower you'll get the right page. ________________________________ From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM AGSTER Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 7:38 PM Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you are talking about?? Thanks Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Repucci <mailto:bill@repucci.com> To: rv9-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:36 AM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel <bill@repucci.com> Thanks Mike. FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a Philips head screw. I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Pur p ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie= Yes Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard size bits, so you might already have one in your shop. I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel tank covers. By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and remove. Just another tip I thought I would pass along. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael T. Ice Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:21 AM To: rv9-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV9-List: Instrument panel Bill, Wayne, Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the bottom of the ribs. Many thanks, Mike Ice wiring done, slider canopy under construction ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Repucci" <bill@repucci.com> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:15 PM Subject: RE: RV9-List: Instrument panel <bill@repucci.com> > > Wayne, > > Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to > cut as many holes in that sub-panel as you need. > > The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes > through it. > > This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and > transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg > > FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward > side of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up. (I > am building a tip-up.) Because of this, I have mounted everything > with plate nuts and cap screws. Here is a picture of my Dynon blind > encoder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html. If you blow it > up, you will see the black cap screws holding it in place. > > Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs > and sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold > all the wires in place. Check out this picture: > http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg > > Good luck, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 6:10 PM > To: rv9-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV9-List: Instrument panel > > > > I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up > canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel > centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone > just put up with > > offset instruments? > Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including > the harness (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of the instrument > panel and the > bulkhead is only about 9 inches. Do you have to hack holes in the > bulkhead. > Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios? > > Wayne Owens > > > > > > > > > > > > > ========================h ttp://www.matronicsnbsp; available via title=http://forums.matronics.com/ href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com




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