RV9-List Digest Archive

Fri 06/05/09


Total Messages Posted: 4



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 10:27 AM - ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque (Garey Wittich)
     2. 10:44 AM - Heads Up On Wheel Pant Fiberglass Quality... (Matt Dralle)
     3. 05:40 PM - Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque (Dennis Thomas)
     4. 08:20 PM - Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque (Ian)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 10:27:41 AM PST US
    From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com>
    Subject: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque
    For you Experts: Installed the Rod End Bearings in the Rudder and Elevator today. -My loca l A & P said to tighten the Jam Nut by "Hand Tightening" the Jam Nut as far as it will go, then turn the nut between 1/4 and 1/2 turn more. I "hand tightened" the Jam Nut (as the A & P said), but could not get it to tighten more than an additional 1/8 turn, -Because the Jam Nut is recess ed (in the Spar channel), it is impossible to get a wrench "squarely" on it = any further tightening of the Nut starts to round the corners of the N ut. -Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam Nut tightness, if NOT how do y ou turn the Nut (since it is recessed) ???? What Torque Value is required for the Jam Nut, assuming a Torque Wrench can get into the recessed area - do not see how this can be done. ANOTHER QUESTION -Have a "Click Type" torque wrench that starts at 20 in-lb s. -From previous posts, the FIRST 1/6 and the LAST 1/6 of the Wrench's s cale are inaccurate. -So how do you measure -"LOW VALUES" -for an AN3 Nut that requires 20 - 25 in/lbs plus Friction Torque of approx 5 in/lbs = 25 to 30 on/lbs TOTAL torque ?? Appreciate your help, Garey - Santa Monica, CA=0A=0A=0A


    Message 2


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    Time: 10:44:56 AM PST US
    From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
    Subject: Heads Up On Wheel Pant Fiberglass Quality...
    Dear Listers, I took delivery of an RV-8 QB finish kit around September 2008. Last weekend I started tackling the installation of the wheel pants. The first thing I noticed on inspection of the wheel pants was how horrible the quality was. The front piece didn't fit the back piece and the flange shoulder on the back pieces were not straight. Getting a even an "okay" fit was nearly impossible. The other issue was the quality of the fiberglass itself. On the rear part of the back piece, the epoxy resin was completely spider-cracked on both sides and on both pants. It was nothing a few more coats of resin and a bunch of sanding couldn't fix, but who wants to do that? Needless to say, I was fairly demoralized by the fact that there was really no way I was going to be able to make them really fit together "perfect". But, I plowed ahead anyway and started trying to mount them to the Grove Airfoiled gear. I had a lot of trouble getting them to fit correctly onto the landing gear. The main issue seemed to be that they are too small at the bottom and don't fit over the brake caliper without touching. I kept thinking that I must just not have them in the correct position, so I kept hogging out a little more glass here and there with the Dremel tool until basically the holes were all too big (for the gear leg and for the wheel). I finally found a couple of builder web sites where others have had the same issue with the brake caliper interference and they added a 2.5" "blister" to pooch out over the area that rubs. But by this time it was too late for that first set of pants. But here's the interesting part. Since I had basically destroyed both of the original pants trying to get them to fit, I decided to just order up a replacement set, take a sedative, and start over again on the whole thing. The new wheel pants arrived from Van's yesterday. The difference in quality between these replacement units and the ones from last year is incredible! The seams are nearly perfect on the replacements and only required a bit of sanding on the front part to get a *perfect*, and I mean *perfect* fit between the front and back halves. The consistency of the fiberglass layups is 100% better on the new units, and that seam at the top was already so flat, I didn't even have to sand it down. There are no spider cracks in the glass anywhere. I haven't actually weighed them, but replacements feel like they might be somewhat lighter as well. Obviously Van's switched fiberglass vendors at some point in the last 10 months and the switch was well worth it. I've attached a couple of photos of the Circa September 2008 and Circa June 2009 sets I received. The only similarity is in the overall shape. FYI Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:40:22 PM PST US
    From: Dennis Thomas <dthomas773@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque
    What works well for this is a ratchet end wrench.=0A=0AI wouldn't worry too much about torque torque value. If really concerned you could play with a same size nut in another location with a torque and regular wrench to get the feel of what the torque feels like.=0A=0ADennis Thomas =0A=0A=0A=0A___ _____________________________=0AFrom: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo .com>=0ATo: rv-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Friday, June 5, 2009 10:26:16 AM =0ASubject: RV9-List: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque=0A=0A=0AFor you Expe rts:=0A=0AInstalled the Rod End Bearings in the Rudder and Elevator today. My local A & P said to tighten the Jam Nut by "Hand Tightening" the Jam Nu t as far as it will go, then turn the nut between 1/4 and 1/2 turn more.=0A =0AI "hand tightened" the Jam Nut (as the A & P said), but could not get it to tighten more than an additional 1/8 turn, Because the Jam Nut is reces sed (in the Spar channel), it is impossible to get a wrench "squarely" on i t = any further tightening of the Nut starts to round the corners of the Nut. Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam Nut tightness, if NOT how do yo u turn the Nut (since it is recessed) ????=0A=0AWhat Torque Value is requir ed for the Jam Nut, assuming a Torque Wrench can get into the recessed area - do not see how this can be done.=0A=0AANOTHER QUESTION -=0AHave a "Click Type" torque wrench that starts at 20 in-lbs. From previous posts, the FI RST 1/6 and the LAST 1/6 of the Wrench's scale are inaccurate. So how do y ou measure "LOW VALUES" for an AN3 Nut that requires 20 - 25 in/lbs plus Friction Torque of approx 5 in/lbs = 25 to 30 on/lbs TOTAL torque ??=0A ========


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:20:05 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque
    From: Ian <ixb@videotron.ca>
    Not sure if a ratchet end wrench is the same thing but a crows foot wrench works too. I'd agree about the guesstimating by trying the feel elsewhere. The rod end bearing is not going to go anywhere anyway! Ian Brown On Fri, 2009-06-05 at 17:39 -0700, Dennis Thomas wrote: > What works well for this is a ratchet end wrench. > > > I wouldn't worry too much about torque torque value. If really > concerned you could play with a same size nut in another location > with a torque and regular wrench to get the feel of what the torque > feels like. > > > Dennis Thomas > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com> > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Sent: Friday, June 5, 2009 10:26:16 AM > Subject: RV9-List: ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque > > For you Experts: > > > Installed the Rod End Bearings in the Rudder and Elevator today. My > local A & P said to tighten the Jam Nut by "Hand Tightening" the Jam > Nut as far as it will go, then turn the nut between 1/4 and 1/2 turn > more. > > > I "hand tightened" the Jam Nut (as the A & P said), but could not get > it to tighten more than an additional 1/8 turn, Because the Jam Nut > is recessed (in the Spar channel), it is impossible to get a wrench > "squarely" on it = any further tightening of the Nut starts to round > the corners of the Nut. Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam Nut > tightness, if NOT how do you turn the Nut (since it is recessed) ???? > > > What Torque Value is required for the Jam Nut, assuming a Torque > Wrench can get into the recessed area - do not see how this can be > done. > > > ANOTHER QUESTION - > Have a "Click Type" torque wrench that starts at 20 in-lbs. From > previous posts, the FIRST 1/6 and the LAST 1/6 of the Wrench's scale > are inaccurate. So how do you measure "LOW VALUES" for an AN3 Nut > that requires 20 - 25 in/lbs plus Friction Torque of approx 5 in/lbs > 25 to 30 on/lbs TOTAL torque ?? > > > Appreciate your help, > > > Garey Santa Monica, CA > > http://foru== > > > > >




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