Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:58 AM - Re: rumbling vibration (gary)
2. 02:42 PM - lurking lister (N53dw@aol.com)
3. 02:49 PM - Re: lurking lister (Bill Cardell)
4. 03:28 PM - Re: lurking lister (HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
5. 08:06 PM - Re: lurking lister (RLucka@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: rumbling vibration |
--> Stratus-List message posted by: "gary" <FlyinK@Efortress.com>
I'm sure you checked belt tension, what about checking all the belt and gear
teeth and general condition?
I'm thinking of adding a CHT sensor on the top of the drive to measure drive
temp. I figure if a bearing ever started going, I might see a change in
temp. Maybe not, with aluminum, heat spreads very quickly. But, maybe with
another sensor on one of the heads, there would be a small difference? Any
thoughts/guesses?
Gary
- a whopping 24 hours into my 40 hours. going slow, but no problems.
----- Original Message -----
From: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Stratus-List: rumbling vibration
> --> Stratus-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
<frank.hinde@hp.com>
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> This may be in my head but I get the feeling I am getting increased levels
> of vibration from my Stratus conversion. Like a gentle rumble....
>
> I am wondering if I have worn re-drive bearings. I had the re-drive off at
> about 280 hours and the bottom bearing felt fine at that point. Of course
I
> did not check out the top (grease lubricated) bearings.
>
> I have 314 hours on the redrive now and I think someone had a problem
around
> this time. Can someone enlighten me how to take thing apart and check the
> bearings? Was the vibration noticable?
>
> I seem to remember this person removed the grease seals and added a grease
> nipple?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>
>
Message 2
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--> Stratus-List message posted by: N53dw@aol.com
Hello all
I've been lurking for a while since I signed onto the list. Sorry for not
contributing so far. This seems to be a good source of info that's probably
hard to come by otherwise. I have 105 hours on a Stratus in a Kitfox 5 that I
first flew in August 2001. It's turning a 3-blade taper-tip Warp Drive prop.
I have a few experiences and questions.....
1) Where is this place named Ram that is doing the head rebuilds with the
improved valve guides?
2) What are the symptoms of a bad valve guide?
3) I've been chasing a rough idle for the last couple months, only because
it wasn't there at first. I've overhauled the carbs, tighted the belt drive,
and remounted the prop.
4) Regarding the problem of the intake elbows softening, I think it's
because the ones Stratus uses are made of ABS. I found some PVC 2" DWV street
elbows that fit better, and PVC is impervious to gasoline. The ID of the female
end
needed a little sanding with a Dremel, but it was only a 10-minute job.
5) Someone mentioned a while back shimming the prop blades inside the hub
with tape trying to correct a tracking problem. I tried that, but it seems to
interfere with the clamp loads exerted by the hub bolts, and I could see
fretting marks on the hub when I pulled it down for inspection. I removed the
tape
and it seems much more secure. Darryl at Warp Drive says blade tracking
within 1/4" is acceptable anyway, because a modular prop is more tolerant of an
out
of track condition than a solid one.
6) I generally run the 89 octane mogas, with a dash of MMO. It's only had a
couple tanks of avgas run thru it.
7) No cracked engine mounts so far (as he types with crossed fingers). I
took delivery on mine in 1999.
8) My oil pressure from Day One was 70-75 psi hot or cold (verified with a
mechanical gauge). I pulled the spring out of the pressure regulator and cut
it down, and now I have a more comfortable 40 psi. I just was not comfortable
with pressure high out of the green band all the time.
9) I installed an oil cooler and a remote filter. The cooler is low on the
firewall on the drivers' side and I made a scoop out of fiberglass that
matches the profile of the cowl inlet on that side, and glassed it into the lower
half of the cowl. A piece of 3" SCAT hose runs from there to the cooler.
10) Does anyone have a schematic of this GM ignition module installation
y'all have been discussing?
There, that ought to get me started.
Danny Williamson
Baton Rouge, LA
Message 3
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--> Stratus-List message posted by: Bill Cardell <bill@flyinmiata.com>
Danny,
Lot's of good info, thanks. One question, why the concern with 70 psi of oil
pressure? That's a real typical number for water cooled engines. Just
wondering.
Bill Cardell (TurboDog's Dad)
bill@flyinmiata.com
Flyin' Miata
1-800-359-6957 (sales only)
970-242-3800 (tech support)
http://flyinmiata.com
http://flyinprotege.com
-----Original Message-----
From: N53dw@aol.com [mailto:N53dw@aol.com]
Subject: Stratus-List: lurking lister
--> Stratus-List message posted by: N53dw@aol.com
Hello all
I've been lurking for a while since I signed onto the list. Sorry for not
contributing so far. This seems to be a good source of info that's probably
hard to come by otherwise. I have 105 hours on a Stratus in a Kitfox 5 that
I
first flew in August 2001. It's turning a 3-blade taper-tip Warp Drive
prop.
I have a few experiences and questions.....
1) Where is this place named Ram that is doing the head rebuilds with the
improved valve guides?
2) What are the symptoms of a bad valve guide?
3) I've been chasing a rough idle for the last couple months, only because
it wasn't there at first. I've overhauled the carbs, tighted the belt
drive,
and remounted the prop.
4) Regarding the problem of the intake elbows softening, I think it's
because the ones Stratus uses are made of ABS. I found some PVC 2" DWV
street
elbows that fit better, and PVC is impervious to gasoline. The ID of the
female end
needed a little sanding with a Dremel, but it was only a 10-minute job.
5) Someone mentioned a while back shimming the prop blades inside the hub
with tape trying to correct a tracking problem. I tried that, but it seems
to
interfere with the clamp loads exerted by the hub bolts, and I could see
fretting marks on the hub when I pulled it down for inspection. I removed
the tape
and it seems much more secure. Darryl at Warp Drive says blade tracking
within 1/4" is acceptable anyway, because a modular prop is more tolerant of
an out
of track condition than a solid one.
6) I generally run the 89 octane mogas, with a dash of MMO. It's only had
a
couple tanks of avgas run thru it.
7) No cracked engine mounts so far (as he types with crossed fingers). I
took delivery on mine in 1999.
8) My oil pressure from Day One was 70-75 psi hot or cold (verified with a
mechanical gauge). I pulled the spring out of the pressure regulator and
cut
it down, and now I have a more comfortable 40 psi. I just was not
comfortable
with pressure high out of the green band all the time.
9) I installed an oil cooler and a remote filter. The cooler is low on the
firewall on the drivers' side and I made a scoop out of fiberglass that
matches the profile of the cowl inlet on that side, and glassed it into the
lower
half of the cowl. A piece of 3" SCAT hose runs from there to the cooler.
10) Does anyone have a schematic of this GM ignition module installation
y'all have been discussing?
There, that ought to get me started.
Danny Williamson
Baton Rouge, LA
Message 4
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--> Stratus-List message posted by: "HINDE,FRANK (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <frank.hinde@hp.com>
Ram Performance.... //www.ramengines.com/index.html
The symptoms...Well they vary. Usually you'll be flying along and the engine
will cough ever so slightly and you will feel a little shudder in the plane.
This is the best scenario.
The fix is to land ASAP pull the heads and if your lucky you will have a
destroyed valve and a pitted piston that will be reusable...oh and a few
pits in the head
The worse scenario is the engine will quit, seize up and you will land in a
feid (hopefully) whether you like it or not!
The most common scanario is folks try to pretend it's a little misfire and
keep flying it and the shudders cough get louder and more pronounced....It
completely trashed my first engine.
The GM ignition is on either the "Airsoob" or Flysoob groups at
www.yahoogroups.com
Very worthwhile groups to join.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stratus-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-stratus-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of N53dw@aol.com
Subject: Stratus-List: lurking lister
--> Stratus-List message posted by: N53dw@aol.com
Hello all
I've been lurking for a while since I signed onto the list. Sorry for not
contributing so far. This seems to be a good source of info that's probably
hard to come by otherwise. I have 105 hours on a Stratus in a Kitfox 5 that
I
first flew in August 2001. It's turning a 3-blade taper-tip Warp Drive
prop.
I have a few experiences and questions.....
1) Where is this place named Ram that is doing the head rebuilds with the
improved valve guides?
2) What are the symptoms of a bad valve guide?
3) I've been chasing a rough idle for the last couple months, only because
it wasn't there at first. I've overhauled the carbs, tighted the belt
drive,
and remounted the prop.
4) Regarding the problem of the intake elbows softening, I think it's
because the ones Stratus uses are made of ABS. I found some PVC 2" DWV
street
elbows that fit better, and PVC is impervious to gasoline. The ID of the
female end
needed a little sanding with a Dremel, but it was only a 10-minute job.
5) Someone mentioned a while back shimming the prop blades inside the hub
with tape trying to correct a tracking problem. I tried that, but it seems
to
interfere with the clamp loads exerted by the hub bolts, and I could see
fretting marks on the hub when I pulled it down for inspection. I removed
the tape
and it seems much more secure. Darryl at Warp Drive says blade tracking
within 1/4" is acceptable anyway, because a modular prop is more tolerant of
an out
of track condition than a solid one.
6) I generally run the 89 octane mogas, with a dash of MMO. It's only had
a
couple tanks of avgas run thru it.
7) No cracked engine mounts so far (as he types with crossed fingers). I
took delivery on mine in 1999.
8) My oil pressure from Day One was 70-75 psi hot or cold (verified with a
mechanical gauge). I pulled the spring out of the pressure regulator and
cut
it down, and now I have a more comfortable 40 psi. I just was not
comfortable
with pressure high out of the green band all the time.
9) I installed an oil cooler and a remote filter. The cooler is low on the
firewall on the drivers' side and I made a scoop out of fiberglass that
matches the profile of the cowl inlet on that side, and glassed it into the
lower
half of the cowl. A piece of 3" SCAT hose runs from there to the cooler.
10) Does anyone have a schematic of this GM ignition module installation
y'all have been discussing?
There, that ought to get me started.
Danny Williamson
Baton Rouge, LA
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: lurking lister |
--> Stratus-List message posted by: RLucka@aol.com
In a message dated 2/24/2004 5:45:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, N53dw@aol.com
writes:
5) Someone mentioned a while back shimming the prop blades inside the hub
with tape trying to correct a tracking problem. I tried that, but it seems
to
interfere with the clamp loads exerted by the hub bolts, and I could see
fretting marks on the hub when I pulled it down for inspection. I removed
the tape
and it seems much more secure. Darryl at Warp Drive says blade tracking
within 1/4" is acceptable anyway, because a modular prop is more tolerant of
an out
of track condition than a solid one.
It may have been me who mentioned that. I have a 70" Warp Drive for my
Stratus Subaru. It so happened that there was (and still is) a tracking difference
of 1 mm between two blades and a maximum difference of 3 mm between two other
blades. 3 mm is within the 1/4" limit as specified by Warp Drive (I called
them and they told me about the 1/4" maximum deflection allowance).
I used aluminum tape to try to bring the deflection to a minimum. It made no
difference in vibration or performance. Eventually, I noticed the tape
breaking up and oozing out the hubs where the blades exit so I removed the tapes
and reinstalled the props. Still no difference.
Weather is warming up so I am going to experiment with the carbs to try to
get them to match up perfectly in the hope of removing some engine vibration
that always seem to be present at certain rpm's. For example, the engine idles
nice and smooth at 1,200 rpm, but as the engine speeds up from 1,400 rpm to
2,000 rpm, there is a noticeable vibration. My theory is that one carb may be
transitioning from idle to middle sooner than the other, causing a mismatch in
fuel/air flow to both sides of the engine. This is just a theory that I am
going to try to confirm soon and hopefully be able to correct and have total
smoothness throughout the entire rpm range.
Dick (601HDS, Stratus, 176 hours)
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