Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:48 AM - fuel tank drain plugs (Larry McFarland)
2. 11:41 AM - Re: Prop Balance (Bill Morelli)
3. 05:20 PM - Re: Prop Balance (gary)
4. 08:16 PM - Re: Prop Balance (RLucka@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | fuel tank drain plugs |
--> Stratus-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
Hi guys,
On the leading edge tanks, I've used the push-pin drain plugs
that are common, but notice that the hex is drilled for safety
wire. In a recent AOPA publication, I noticed this type hex was
wired to a tab riveted to the bottom skin on the wing.
I've not safety wired these hex plugs because it seems
components that do not work like pivoting linkages wouldn't
need this. I've never heard of a oil plug lost on a car
that was properly tightened, but it probably has happened.
If safety wire is is needed, how is it best done? Seems too close to
a tank bottom to have rivets there for a tab.
Any ideas?
Larry McFarland (preparing for the airworthiness inspection)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Balance |
--> Stratus-List message posted by: "Bill Morelli" <billvt@together.net>
Dick,
I have a good amount of vibration at around 3500 rpm. I usually cruise
around 4400 and there it is pretty smooth (probably really isn't but I have
nothing to compare it to). I pull back to 4000 in the pattern and that is
pretty smooth and then to 3000 for final approach. My issue is between 3000
and 4000.
Anyway, I found an A&P at a nearby airport that has the dynamic balance
equipment you described.
Did you have to tie the aircraft down to run it up to 4000 rpm? My brakes
won't hold much past 3000 rpm.
Do you notice tha the engine is now smoother at RPM's other than your 4000
cruise rpm?
You said that the A&P added the bolt / nut to the plate that the spinner
mounts to. Did he simply drill a hole in that fiberglass plate to add the
hardware?
The cost to get mine balance would be $150 so I think I'm going to go for
it.
Regards,
Bill
> What exactly did he do to blance the prop?
> Bill
>
> The A&P used a dynamic balancer (or whatever it's called) with sensors
> attached to the reduction unit and the cowl. The second sensor watched
for a strip
> of metal attached to one of the prop blades. I had to run the engine
(with
> the prop on of course) at my cruise speed (4000 rpm) a few times while
his
> little computer figures out where to add weights and how much weight.
After 3
> runs, he added two bolts/ washers/ & nuts to the spinner mounting piece
(the piece
> that is attached to the prop hub and contains flanges for the spinner to
be
> attached to).
>
> I don't remember what his tool is called, but it does work.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Dick
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Balance |
--> Stratus-List message posted by: "gary" <FlyinK@Efortress.com>
Highly recommended Bill. I noticed a big difference thru all rpm's. My
brakes wouldn't hold my plane before but now the 6" Matco single cylinder
brakes hold it at WOT. My guy put tape on the back of a prop blade and used
the top spacer holes on the drive to mount the accelerometer.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Morelli" <billvt@together.net>
Subject: Re: Stratus-List: Prop Balance
> --> Stratus-List message posted by: "Bill Morelli" <billvt@together.net>
>
> Dick,
>
> I have a good amount of vibration at around 3500 rpm. I usually cruise
> around 4400 and there it is pretty smooth (probably really isn't but I
have
> nothing to compare it to). I pull back to 4000 in the pattern and that is
> pretty smooth and then to 3000 for final approach. My issue is between
3000
> and 4000.
>
> Anyway, I found an A&P at a nearby airport that has the dynamic balance
> equipment you described.
>
> Did you have to tie the aircraft down to run it up to 4000 rpm? My brakes
> won't hold much past 3000 rpm.
>
> Do you notice tha the engine is now smoother at RPM's other than your 4000
> cruise rpm?
>
> You said that the A&P added the bolt / nut to the plate that the spinner
> mounts to. Did he simply drill a hole in that fiberglass plate to add the
> hardware?
>
> The cost to get mine balance would be $150 so I think I'm going to go for
> it.
>
> Regards,
> Bill
>
>
> > What exactly did he do to blance the prop?
> > Bill
> >
> > The A&P used a dynamic balancer (or whatever it's called) with sensors
> > attached to the reduction unit and the cowl. The second sensor watched
> for a strip
> > of metal attached to one of the prop blades. I had to run the engine
> (with
> > the prop on of course) at my cruise speed (4000 rpm) a few times while
> his
> > little computer figures out where to add weights and how much weight.
> After 3
> > runs, he added two bolts/ washers/ & nuts to the spinner mounting piece
> (the piece
> > that is attached to the prop hub and contains flanges for the spinner to
> be
> > attached to).
> >
> > I don't remember what his tool is called, but it does work.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Dick
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Balance |
--> Stratus-List message posted by: RLucka@aol.com
In a message dated 4/25/2004 2:42:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
billvt@together.net writes:
Did you have to tie the aircraft down to run it up to 4000 rpm? My brakes
won't hold much past 3000 rpm.
Do you notice tha the engine is now smoother at RPM's other than your 4000
cruise rpm?
You said that the A&P added the bolt / nut to the plate that the spinner
mounts to. Did he simply drill a hole in that fiberglass plate to add the
hardware?
Hi Bill
Before my props were balanced, I would feel harmonic vibrations starting at
around 1400 rpm and would be there at varying intensity all the way up to full
open throttle, except at 3800 rpm, which is why I always cruised at 3800
because it was so smooth there.
After the balance, I feel no harmonics and the engine seems to be very smooth
from 2000 rpm and up. I am very happy with the results.
During the balancing, I tied the plane to my truck. I wrapped heavy ropes
from the plane's main gear tubes to the truck's axle. Like you, my brakes will
not hold beyond 3000 rpm, so my truck kept the plane stationary at cruise rpm.
After four run-up's, the A&P drilled two holes in the spinner mount
fiberglass and attached two bolts/washer/nuts combos.
After you have this done, don't forget to mark the locations of all three
blades and the spinner mount plate before you disassemble the prop for whatever
reason. Everything has to come back together as marked or the prop will be out
of balance again. Horrors!
The A&P charged $150, so that is a good investment. Money well spent!!!
Dick (601-HDS Stratus 183 hours)
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