Stratus-List Digest Archive

Thu 05/06/04


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:52 PM - N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow. (Larry McFarland)
     2. 07:03 PM - Re: carb sync (revisited) (The Meiste's)
     3. 07:13 PM - Re: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow. (gary)
     4. 07:21 PM - belt tension (gary)
     5. 07:32 PM - Re: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow. (The Meiste's)
     6. 07:43 PM - Re: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow. (Bill Morelli)
     7. 08:22 PM - Re: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow. (RLucka@aol.com)
     8. 08:47 PM - Re: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow. (Larry McFarland)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:52:01 PM PST US
    From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
    Subject: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow.
    --> Stratus-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com> Hi guys, As optimistic as it sounds, the 601 was tethered off the Saturns trailer hitch today to the rear gear and performed a 20-minute runup in the a.m. and one in the p.m. I rewired the starter to work off a contactor and everything works fine, but now the light for the alternator which went out before is now on while running. Temps at 20 mins are EGT 1120-1134, CHT 211-215, Coolant 195, RPMs 1250-2100 at ambient which started at 72-degrees F and 85-degrees by late afternoon. Thermostat kicked in at 187-degrees CHT and water went progressively up shortly after. Very pleased so far, but don't think my brakes are ready for anything above 2100 until they're broken in. The engine runs well from 750 out up to 2800, but the sensing tach while recording hours, is fussy above 1850, where most of the running was done. I notice that the redrive bearings are very warm to the touch and the belt is 1/8" deflection at 20 lbs. Has anyone ever found the bearings to be cool while driving a prop or do they all get hot when running? Also, if anyone knows the value of that light from the alternator not going off, I'd like to hear about it. My EIS Volts says the alternator is doing 12.4 at 1800 rpms but I'm not sure what it should be reading at this point. Please advise if you can. Larry McFarland - 601HDS in prep for taxi tests.


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:03:52 PM PST US
    From: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
    Subject: Re: carb sync (revisited)
    --> Stratus-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com> As I was thumbing thru issue #141 of the Zenair newsletter I was drawn to page 11 (also page 9 but that's another story). This page shows a Rotax service bulletin warning of possible cracks and distortion on the rubber carb mount. It states for everyone flying the 912 & 914 engines (the same carbs as used by us Stratus fliers) to check our rubber carb mounts ASAP. They are now recommending a redesigned mount if a new mount is needed. I have inspected mine and have also found small cracks starting to form after 80 hours (Rotax also states to check new carb mounts every 50 hours). I'm just wondering if any of you have also found your mounts cracking? If so is this possibly adding to the carb problems, as I believe this would change the fuel & air mixture of our carb settings we are working so hard to tweak. Kelly Stratus powered 601 HD


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:13:59 PM PST US
    From: "gary" <FlyinK@efortress.com>
    Subject: Re: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow.
    --> Stratus-List message posted by: "gary" <FlyinK@Efortress.com> Larry, Do you keep power to the right pin on the alternator? I don't have the connector dwg for the alt here, but there are three pins - one for the light (other side of light to power), one that has power to it all the time, and one not used. Temps look good for that radiator setup, hope it all stays cool with high power. Good luck! I found the drive is always hot - I assume because it's a huge chunk of aluminum bolted to another big chunk, the heat spreads very quickly and it all gets hot. I'm guessing more from the block than the drive but I don't know. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com> Subject: Stratus-List: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow. > --> Stratus-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com> > > Hi guys, > As optimistic as it sounds, the 601 was tethered off the Saturns > trailer hitch today to the rear gear and performed a 20-minute runup > in the a.m. and one in the p.m. I rewired the starter to work off > a contactor and everything works fine, but now the light for > the alternator which went out before is now on while running. > Temps at 20 mins are EGT 1120-1134, CHT 211-215, Coolant 195, RPMs > 1250-2100 at ambient which started at 72-degrees F and 85-degrees > by late afternoon. Thermostat kicked in at 187-degrees CHT and water > went progressively up shortly after. Very pleased so far, but don't think my > brakes are ready for anything above 2100 until they're broken in. > > The engine runs well from 750 out up to 2800, but the sensing tach while recording > hours, is fussy above 1850, where most of the running was done. > > I notice that the redrive bearings are very warm to the touch and the belt is 1/8" > deflection at 20 lbs. > > Has anyone ever found the bearings to be cool while driving > a prop or do they all get hot when running? > > Also, if anyone knows the value of that light from the alternator not going off, I'd > like to hear about it. > > My EIS Volts says the alternator is doing 12.4 at 1800 > rpms but I'm not sure what it should be reading at this point. > > Please advise if you can. > > Larry McFarland - 601HDS in prep for taxi tests. > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:21:24 PM PST US
    From: "gary" <FlyinK@efortress.com>
    Subject: belt tension
    --> Stratus-List message posted by: "gary" <FlyinK@Efortress.com> I fiddled with my belt adjustment again and boy did it run smooth today. Almost sorry I bought that Warp Drive because it was fine with the 2-blade Prince. I knew I had it pretty smooth before but it must be fussier than I thought. The vibration was bugging me recently so I readjusted the tracking and tension before swapping props and it did the trick. The tension is so close to where it was before I can't even really say that it's any tighter, but the belt was riding on the front pulley (but within spec) and I adjusted it more the other way, still within spec (after about three times tweaking and tightening and checking - there's got to be a better mechanism to adjust these) but that's the only thing I touched and it was quite a bit smoother. Plus the air was smooth tonight, very nice flight. Gary


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:32:49 PM PST US
    From: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com>
    Subject: Re: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow.
    --> Stratus-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com> Larry, Thanks for your update! I'll try giving you my 2 cents on a few of your ?'s Coolant 195, RPMs > 1250-2100 at ambient which started at 72-degrees F and 85-degrees > by late afternoon. Thermostat kicked in at 187-degrees CHT and water > went progressively up shortly after. Sounds fine so far, but let us know how you do on full throttle. My engine would only allow a 1 minute full power burst without having to shut down due to high water temps. > I notice that the redrive bearings are very warm to the touch and the belt is 1/8" > deflection at 20 lbs. I found 1/4" def @ 20 lbs to be better (just my opinion), when the engine is hot the belt gets VERY tight. > > Has anyone ever found the bearings to be cool while driving > a prop or do they all get hot when running? Yup .... mine get hot also. > > Also, if anyone knows the value of that light from the alternator not going off, I'd > like to hear about it. I had that problem when I first wired my alt (as per Stratus manual). Mykal "said" he changed the manual to correct the problem. To make my long story short, the engine was starting TO quickly and not letting the alt fields build before the engine fired??? Don't ask ... I'm not an electrician. Anyway one has to wire the alt differently to cause the engine to start a little slower. This worked for me and my light when out. Let me know if you want the wiring details. > > My EIS Volts says the alternator is doing 12.4 at 1800 > rpms but I'm not sure what it should be reading at this point. My ZAC supplied volt meter shows about 14.5 anything the engine is running. Kelly >


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:43:15 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Morelli" <billvt@together.net>
    Subject: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow.
    --> Stratus-List message posted by: "Bill Morelli" <billvt@together.net> Larry, My redrive assembly gets hot. I believe it's just heat from the engine being transferred to the redrive and not the bearings heating up. Mine gets hot to the touch but not so hot that you can't leave you hand on it. > I notice that the redrive bearings are very warm to the touch and the belt is 1/8" > deflection at 20 lbs. > > Has anyone ever found the bearings to be cool while driving > a prop or do they all get hot when running? My volt meter (analog) on my panel shows close to 14 volts when the alternator light is off. When I start my engine, the alt light stays on until I get the rpm up around 2000 then the light goes off. The volts jump from just over 12 volts to closer to 14 volts. Once the light goes off, it stays off at even at low rpm. This having to run the engine up to 2000 to get the alt light off has been seen by other Stratus owners in the past. > My EIS Volts says the alternator is doing 12.4 at 1800 > rpms but I'm not sure what it should be reading at this point. Bill


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:22:04 PM PST US
    From: RLucka@aol.com
    Subject: Re: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow.
    --> Stratus-List message posted by: RLucka@aol.com In a message dated 5/6/2004 10:46:50 PM Eastern Standard Time, billvt@together.net writes: My volt meter (analog) on my panel shows close to 14 volts when the alternator light is off. When I start my engine, the alt light stays on until I get the rpm up around 2000 then the light goes off. The volts jump from just over 12 volts to closer to 14 volts. Once the light goes off, it stays off at even at low rpm. This having to run the engine up to 2000 to get the alt light off has been seen by other Stratus owners in the past. > My EIS Volts says the alternator is doing 12.4 at 1800 > rpms but I'm not sure what it should be reading at this point. My alternator behaves the same way and I found out why. It's the green wire from the alternator (exciter) connected to the start position on the starter switch, according to schematics provided by Stratus and Zenith. The exciter must have voltage present when the motor starts to "excite" the alternator to function. After the exciter functions (generates current), the exciter can remain at 12 volts or be disconnected. For our setup, when you turn on the ignition switch to start the motor, the switch applies +12 volts to the starter solenoid and the exciter in the alternator (green wire). When the motor starts, you release the ignition switch to the ON position, which removes voltage to both the starter solenoid and the alternator exciter. The problem is, the exciter needs that +12 volts a little while longer after the switch is released when the motor starts in order to get the alternator going. You can remedy the problem by connecting the green wire to the ignition switch ON position, rather than the start position. There is no current flow into the exciter once the alternator kicks on so no power is lost. However, with the ignition switch to ON, there is more than 200mA flowing into the exciter circuit with the engine off. I hope this helps. Dick (601-HDS, Stratus, 186 hours)


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:47:25 PM PST US
    From: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com>
    Subject: Re: N601EZ is running with a Saturn in tow.
    --> Stratus-List message posted by: "Larry McFarland" <larrymc@qconline.com> Kelly, I'd be very pleased to see how you managed to fix the alternator field and light. Will try to change the tension on the belt a bit to get the 1/4" I should have mentioned that the cowl has been off during these first run ups. Things will undoubtedly get a little hotter with the cowl on or the radiator will have a chance to become more efficient with smoother air. Thanks again, for your reply Larry > --> Stratus-List message posted by: "The Meiste's" <meiste@essex1.com> > > Larry, > Thanks for your update! > I'll try giving you my 2 cents on a few of your ?'s > > Coolant 195, RPMs > > 1250-2100 at ambient which started at 72-degrees F and 85-degrees > > by late afternoon. Thermostat kicked in at 187-degrees CHT and water > > went progressively up shortly after. > > Sounds fine so far, but let us know how you do on full throttle. > My engine would only allow a 1 minute full power burst without having to > shut down due to high water temps. > > I notice that the redrive bearings are very warm to the touch and the > belt is 1/8" > > deflection at 20 lbs. > > I found 1/4" def @ 20 lbs to be better (just my opinion), when the engine is > hot the belt gets VERY tight. > > > > Has anyone ever found the bearings to be cool while driving > > a prop or do they all get hot when running? > > Yup .... mine get hot also. > > > > Also, if anyone knows the value of that light from the alternator not > going off, I'd > > like to hear about it. > > I had that problem when I first wired my alt (as per Stratus manual). Mykal > "said" he changed the manual to correct the problem. To make my long story > short, the engine was starting TO quickly and not letting the alt fields > build before the engine fired??? Don't ask ... I'm not an electrician. > Anyway one has to wire the alt differently to cause the engine to start a > little slower. This worked for me and my light when out. Let me know if you > want the wiring details. > > > > My EIS Volts says the alternator is doing 12.4 at 1800 > > rpms but I'm not sure what it should be reading at this point. > > My ZAC supplied volt meter shows about 14.5 anything the engine is running. > > Kelly Do not archive




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