Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:28 PM - Backup ignition failure (Tim)
2. 06:10 PM - Re: Backup ignition failure (ron hansen)
3. 09:19 PM - Re: Backup ignition failure (Hinde, Frank)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Backup ignition failure |
A couple of weeks ago the backup ignition on my Stratus engine failed. I
tracked the failure down to the sensor by the flywheel. An e-mail Mykal
gave me the news that the part was obsolete and no longer available. My
further inquiry with Mykal got the part number of the old part. Some on
line research gave me the specs of the old parts and a potential
replacement. I can tell you that I have been successful in repairing the
dead sensor. If you have a dead sensor or might this is what you have to
do.
The replacement part is a SS461A Hall effect switch available from
Jameco for about $1.10 each, but you have to buy 10, that's good that
way you'll have spares if you mess up anything. First you have to remove
the "guts of the old sensor. I found a hot air gun and metal pick will
remove most of it with a little time. During this process the washer on
the end of the sensor will probably fall out if it hasn't all ready. The
sensor is just a 3/4 inch rod drilled through will a 25/64 hole and then
drilled about half way down with a 9/16th. When you get all the epoxy
out of the 9/16 part just heat it up good and punch the rest out. Remove
the old device from the wires. The new device will require one addition,
a pull up resistor. It goes between the + terminal of the device and the
output. I put mine inside the sensor but it could be attached at the
plug end if desired. The resistor can be between 4 and 24K 1/8 watt. The
red lead to the plug connect to the + of the device, the black lead to
the - and the green lead to the O. If you put the resistor inside make
sure to get heat shrink over everything so the leads don't touch each
other or the metal housing. I used 1 hour epoxy to fill in the housing.
Put a piece of clear tap over the end and bend the sensor leads such
that faceted side of the device, the one with the number on it faces
out. I filled the small end of the sensor with epoxy first and
positioned the device as close as I could to the tape. Make sure the
wire is such that the mounting screw will fit in. After that part set up
a little I put the mounting screw in and fill the it up the top. After
it sets a little bit turn the screw to break it lose from the epoxy, it
will be a LOT harder later. I filed the hole out after it set up so the
screw would turn easily and make sure the sensor was solidly mounted to
the engine. I expect that this sensor will hold up better than the
original since the old one was only rated up to 100 C and the crankcase
part of the engine can get up to 115 C. The new part is rated for up to
150 C.
Hope this helps someone with a dead ignition.
Tim Shankland
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Backup ignition failure |
Tim, thanks so much for posting this. I haven't had that part fail yet,
but if I do, I know how to make one now.
Ron
Stratus/Ram heads/Ram rebuild/Zenair 601HDS/Los Angeles
On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 2:26 PM, Tim <tshankland@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> A couple of weeks ago the backup ignition on my Stratus engine failed.
> I tracked the failure down to the sensor by the flywheel. An e-mail Mykal
> gave me the news that the part was obsolete and no longer available. My
> further inquiry with Mykal got the part number of the old part. Some on
> line research gave me the specs of the old parts and a potential
> replacement. I can tell you that I have been successful in repairing the
> dead sensor. If you have a dead sensor or might this is what you have to
> do.
>
> The replacement part is a SS461A Hall effect switch available from Jameco
> for about $1.10 each, but you have to buy 10, that's good that way you'll
> have spares if you mess up anything. First you have to remove the "guts of
> the old sensor. I found a hot air gun and metal pick will remove most of it
> with a little time. During this process the washer on the end of the sensor
> will probably fall out if it hasn't all ready. The sensor is just a 3/4
> inch rod drilled through will a 25/64 hole and then drilled about half way
> down with a 9/16th. When you get all the epoxy out of the 9/16 part just
> heat it up good and punch the rest out. Remove the old device from the
> wires. The new device will require one addition, a pull up resistor. It
> goes between the + terminal of the device and the output. I put mine inside
> the sensor but it could be attached at the plug end if desired. The
> resistor can be between 4 and 24K 1/8 watt. The red lead to the plug
> connect to the + of the device, the black lead to the - and the green lead
> to the O. If you put the resistor inside make sure to get heat shrink over
> everything so the leads don't touch each other or the metal housing. I used
> 1 hour epoxy to fill in the housing. Put a piece of clear tap over the end
> and bend the sensor leads such that faceted side of the device, the one
> with the number on it faces out. I filled the small end of the sensor with
> epoxy first and positioned the device as close as I could to the tape. Make
> sure the wire is such that the mounting screw will fit in. After that part
> set up a little I put the mounting screw in and fill the it up the top.
> After it sets a little bit turn the screw to break it lose from the epoxy,
> it will be a LOT harder later. I filed the hole out after it set up so the
> screw would turn easily and make sure the sensor was solidly mounted to the
> engine. I expect that this sensor will hold up better than the original
> since the old one was only rated up to 100 C and the crankcase part of the
> engine can get up to 115 C. The new part is rated for up to 150 C.
> Hope this helps someone with a dead ignition.
> Tim Shankland
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Backup ignition failure |
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