Tailwind-List Digest Archive

Sat 12/21/02


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:52 AM - Re: Re: W-8 Elevators (Jim and Donna Clement)
     2. 10:23 AM - W-8 tail (Earl Luce)
     3. 10:27 AM - Interesting item on eBay web site item#1874964126: cougar 1 kit  (bobka@charter.net)
     4. 09:12 PM - Re: Re: W-8 Elevators (Bill newkirk)
     5. 09:20 PM - Re: Re: W-8 Elevators (Bill newkirk)
     6. 10:23 PM - Re: W-8 Elevators (Fred Weaver)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:52:30 AM PST US
    From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com>
    Subject: Re: W-8 Elevators
    --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> Bill, It is not important but the W10 type lighten the feel, especially while in the pattern and while landing. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: W-8 Elevators > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > > The W-8 project I have inherited has no provision for balancing the > elevators. Is this important? Should the elevators be modified similar to > W-10 elevators? > > Bill Newkirk > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > > > The strap 'T" bolts can also be taken from those expensive hose clamps > that > > they sell at hydraulic shops. They are also stainless. > > > > Also, Jim C, what is a 'boot cowl'? > > > > Bill Newkirk > > W - 8 1/2 > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > > Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:57 PM > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > <168x@merr.com> > > > > > > Bill, They make a strap bolt just for fuel tank straps. I buy them for > > about > > > $2-3 each from the hardware vender at OSH. Forget the name, he is the > one > > > with lots of stuff in a big tent. Also sells cowhides. Someone here will > > > come up with his name, from Wichita area. It is a three inch tee bolt. > you > > > put a hole in your strap, then bend the short end around and either weld > > or > > > rivet to itself. > > > Make your tank 12" from the floor and pound a sump [big dent about 1/2" > > > deep, 6-7" diameter] with a outlet welded in. start bending the tank > > > gradually up towards the inst. panel within 2-3" from the rear edge of > the > > > sump. Reason being, if the tank is flat beyond the fuel pickup, fuel > runs > > > towards the rear of the tank and pulls fuel out of and away from the > > pickup. > > > This happens when take off is attempted with low fuel, 6-7 gallons or > so. > > > Make the tank same width, don't try to taper to match the fuselage > > > dimension. Give yourself no less than 1/2" clearance on each side, they > > seem > > > to grow during construction and welding. You might have to cut off the > > upper > > > corners in the front as the engine mount bolts may hit. Put the vent in > > the > > > filler neck. Use a short rubber hose to connect filler cap assy. to > filler > > > neck. Fuel proof hose can be bought at NAPA store. Use a mechanical fuel > > > gauge sender that measures ohms to the electric guage. Mount the sender > in > > > the top of the tank, make sure it clears the center baffle. I have had > > three > > > probe type senders and they are junk as far as I am concerned. Stainless > > > makes a nice fuel tank strap but another is steel strapping used to > crate > > > things. Just about any dumpster at a manufacturing plant has lots of it. > > > Jim > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Eric Schlanser" <eschlanser@yahoo.com> > > > To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > > > Subject: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Eric Schlanser > > <eschlanser@yahoo.com> > > > > > > > > > > > > Group, This thread is too good to file under "hot steel". I just > needed > > to > > > re-enter it so it can be located later in an archive search under "panel > > and > > > fuel tank". Thanks. Eric > > > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > > <168x@merr.com> > > > > > > > > Richard, Fred is right on hinging, forget it. Put two screws on each > > side, > > > > remove and the panel is loose. Mount the radio trays so they stay with > > the > > > > panel. Curve the top of the panel at least one inch to prevent oil > > canning > > > > of the top panel. > > > > .025 is to heavy for the firewall. I like to use 28 gauge, about .015. > > > Wicks > > > > or Spruce have SS in about .017. If you want, 28 gauge galvanized can > be > > > > bought locally at a sheet metal shop, it works fine but not as pretty. > > > > The alum side panels, roll the bottoms around the longerons 1 1/2" and > > > > fasten to the lower boot cowl. Sandwich the side windows between the > > side > > > > boot cowl and the top instrument panel with screws going into the > > > instrument > > > > top panel. I make the top panel in three pieces, the sides about six > > > inches > > > > wide. > > > > 1/2" tube is fine for the W/S frame but use .028 or .035. Weld tabs to > > > screw > > > > the W/S to. I will measure how high my panel is and distance from the > > > floor > > > > when I go to the airport today. Jim > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Richard Lamb" > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Richard Lamb > > > > > > > > > > He never lets me have any fun :( > > > > > > > > > > I still like that cross tube tho. > > > > > It's even a handy spot to secure a (hurrump) non-folding panel. > > > > > > > > > > I'll tell ya what, tho. > > > > > Jim commented about making the tank easily removable. > > > > > I'll take that one at face value. > > > > > The only thing under the tank are the mount straps > > > > > and the fuel line. > > > > > > > > > > I've had the front cabin side panels clecoed on. > > > > > Trying to get a feel for how to get everything flush and > > > > > rolled around to the bottom. That's interesting. > > > > > > > > > > I need a firewall material, and, of course, want stainless. > > > > > The .025 stuff I've seem locally is twice too heavy. > > > > > Any alternate source for .017?? > > > > > > > > > > This weekend, I bent the windshield frame for the parasol. > > > > > 1/2" .040 4130 tube. Came out pretty nice. I think I > > > > > see how to form the winshield frame for the TW now. > > > > > By comparison, that will be easy. > > > > > > > > > > Door skins and windows and frames, oh my! > > > > > Especially the back window. > > > > > I think I see now why the long pointy one is so popular! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Fred Weaver wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Fred Weaver" > > > > > > > > > > > > Yo Richard... You really don't need the hinged panel. Hinging the > > > panel > > > > is > > > > > > just a lot more engineering and you will find out with time, that > > you > > > > don't > > > > > > need it at all. Simplify your design by screwing it together... > It's > > > > not > > > > > > like you are loading the thing with GPS, Autopilot, Radios(plural) > > etc > > > > > > etc... The stuff you install will be fairly accessible thru the > top > > > > cover > > > > > > of the dash. > > > > > > > > > > > > Once the plane flies, you will be spending lots of time in the air > > and > > > > you > > > > > > won't be doinking around pivoting your panel down for maintenance. > > > > > > Honest..... > > > > > > Weav > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > > From: Richard Lamb > > > > > > To: > > > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Richard Lamb > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks Jim. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Actually, that bottom tube looks pretty handy. > > > > > > > It's located back three inches from the door frame tube. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have moved the panel aft. > > > > > > > The panel itself is back 5 or 6 inches from the door frame. > > > > > > > There's no obstructions at all for the top row, and the cross > > > > > > > tube is 8 or 9 inches (?) in front of the panel. > > > > > > > Think that will be enough room? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Some of those panel drawing I did think that lower cross tube > > > > > > > would be exactly the right spot to hinge mount an instrument > > panel. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The throttle at high center, and the radios in the top of the > > panel > > > > > > > would have to be mounted permenately. But the rest of the panel > > > > > > > could easily swing down. Having the pivot point back behind the > > > > > > > panel that far lets all the gauges swing clear without hitting > > > > > > > anything. The Tailwind panel is fairly small, and the floors > > > > > > > fairly comfortable without a stick sticking in my back. > > > > > > > Still, it's an intriguing idea. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > You know better than most people how far back behind that thing > > > > > > > you have to go sometimes... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Jim and Donna Clement wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > > > > > <168x@merr.com> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Richard, Cut the bottom tube out also, then you can make the > > panel > > > > to > > > > > > your > > > > > > > > liking. Bring it back enough to get things in with out hitting > > the > > > > fuel > > > > > > > > tank. Jim > > > > Subject: Fw: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Dallas Benham" > > > > > > > > Richard and Jim: > > > > > > > > Below is from my files on previous conversations about Tailwind > > > construction. > > > > Hope it helps. > > > > > > > > Dallas > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Rick and Cindy" > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Rick and Cindy > > > > > > > > > > JohnD: Made some measurements of N393RC, floor (1/4" ply) to bottom > of > > > fuel tank > > > > > (29.8 gal) is 12", floor to bottom of panel is 20 3/4", panel is 8 > > 1/8" > > > tall, > > > > > top of panel to bottom of front spar carry through is 8 3/8". > > > > > Rick N393RC > > > > > > > > > > john wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "john" > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm looking for some input on the panel. I measured Clements panel > > at > > > > > > Oshkosh and it measured 19 1/2" to the bottom, 10 1/2" of panel, > > which > > > > > > leaves 7" from the top of the panel, is this about what you > fellows > > > have > > > > > > come up with in your W-10s'? Clements fuel tank measured 10 1/2" > > above > > > the > > > > > > floor. I must have big feet because my shoes measure 12"s', What > is > > > > > > everyone doing about the distance from the floor to the tank? > > > Thankyou. > > > > > > JohnD > > > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > > <168x@merr.com> > > > > > > > > Looks about right, for sure go with the 12" floor to bottom of tank > > > height. > > > > Jim > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Dallas Benham" > > > > Subject: Fw: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Dallas Benham" > > > > > > > > From: "Louis Owen" > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Louis Owen" > > > > > > > > My floor to tank bottom was 13". I have rather big feet. > > > > Lou Owen > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 10:23:02 AM PST US
    From: "Earl Luce" <luceair@att.net>
    Subject: W-8 tail
    --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Earl Luce" <luceair@att.net> Bill N I have converted a W-8 to a balanced elevator , it was a simple task by extending the leading edge 3/4 " tube 3 " and adding a forward portion rectangle approx. 3" x 10". Then add a curve tube to the leading edge of the stab to match. It kind of looks like a Cub tail when finished. I don't believed it is necessary if VNE is below 155. Earl Luce NX 264WM-TW N18263-Buttercup 585-637-5768


    Message 3


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    Time: 10:27:18 AM PST US
    From: bobka@charter.net
    Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#1874964126: cougar
    1 kit --> Tailwind-List message posted by: bobka@charter.net Look guys, this even has a complete C-85 with it and it going pretty cheap right now. chris bobka Title of item: cougar 1 kit Seller: unlimitedcache Starts: Dec-15-02 10:34:09 PST Ends: Dec-25-02 10:34:09 PST Price: Currently $805.01 To bid on the item, go to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874964126 Item Description: cougar 1 kit Vehicle Description HOMEBUILT COPY!! Cougar 1 copy of a wittman tailwind approximately 25 years old. Ran well when disassembled approximately 10 years ago. It has a continental C 85-12 engine. Needs some welding on frame. May need some parts. sold AS IS. Buyer pays for shipping ( Ashland, Oregon 97520) Call John (541) 915-1616 to get an idea of what you are buying go to http://www.homebuilt.org/ On Dec-16-02 at 00:06:49 PST, seller added the following information: After purchasing, pay instantly with your credit card through PayPal! function dw(nu){document.write(s1+"ppslv"+nu+".gif"+s2);} f1="document.links"; s1="\"; c1=c2=c3=c4=0; for(i=0;i=0){c1++;}else if(((document.links[i].search)).indexOf("BetterSeller")=0){c2++;}else if((((document.links[i].search)).indexOf("ListItemForSaleShow")=0)||(((document.links[i].search)).indexOf("ListItemForSaleAutosShow")=0)){c3++;}else if((((document.links[i].hash)).indexOf("ListItemForSaleShow")=0)||(((document.links[i].hash)).indexOf("ListItemForSaleAutosShow")=0)){c4++;}}} if((c1=2)||(c20)||(c30)||(c40)){dw(3);}else{dw(2);} f11="xclick-auction";f13="iid=";f14=""; for(i=0;i0){s11=document.links[i].search;j=s11.indexOf(f13);if(j0){s11=s11.slice((j+(f13.length)));for(k=0;k=0){var p=new Array();p[0]=document.links[i].protocol;p[1]=document.links[i].hostname;p[2]=document.links[i].pathname;for(j=0;j ") On Dec-17-02 at 19:12:49 PST, seller added the following information: airplane cowel is fiberglass, doors are aluminum, wings are plywood and fabric, body skin is fabric, frame 4130 steel tubing, engine has 470 hours. Log book and plans available. i will have a picture in a few. please email me for it. Visit eBay, The World's Online Marketplace TM at http://www.ebay.com


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:12:24 PM PST US
    From: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: W-8 Elevators
    --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> Thanks for the replies. Leaving them stock would certainly be easier, because they are completed. Bill Newkirk ----- Original Message ----- From: <jcsteele@ripnet.com> Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: W-8 Elevators > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: <jcsteele@ripnet.com> > > NO.. Mine is per plans and works fine Jack Steele C-Fsny > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill newkirk <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > To: Bill newkirk <bilnewkirk@msn.com>; tailwind-list@matronics.com > <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > Date: Friday, December 20, 2002 11:28 PM > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: W-8 Elevators > > > >--> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > > > >The W-8 project I have inherited has no provision for balancing the > >elevators. Is this important? Should the elevators be modified similar to > >W-10 elevators? > > > >Bill Newkirk > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > >To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > >Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > > > > >> The strap 'T" bolts can also be taken from those expensive hose clamps > >that > >> they sell at hydraulic shops. They are also stainless. > >> > >> Also, Jim C, what is a 'boot cowl'? > >> > >> Bill Newkirk > >> W - 8 1/2 > >> > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > >> To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > >> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:57 PM > >> Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > >> > >> > >> > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > >> <168x@merr.com> > >> > > >> > Bill, They make a strap bolt just for fuel tank straps. I buy them for > >> about > >> > $2-3 each from the hardware vender at OSH. Forget the name, he is the > >one > >> > with lots of stuff in a big tent. Also sells cowhides. Someone here > will > >> > come up with his name, from Wichita area. It is a three inch tee bolt. > >you > >> > put a hole in your strap, then bend the short end around and either > weld > >> or > >> > rivet to itself. > >> > Make your tank 12" from the floor and pound a sump [big dent about 1/2" > >> > deep, 6-7" diameter] with a outlet welded in. start bending the tank > >> > gradually up towards the inst. panel within 2-3" from the rear edge of > >the > >> > sump. Reason being, if the tank is flat beyond the fuel pickup, fuel > >runs > >> > towards the rear of the tank and pulls fuel out of and away from the > >> pickup. > >> > This happens when take off is attempted with low fuel, 6-7 gallons or > >so. > >> > Make the tank same width, don't try to taper to match the fuselage > >> > dimension. Give yourself no less than 1/2" clearance on each side, they > >> seem > >> > to grow during construction and welding. You might have to cut off the > >> upper > >> > corners in the front as the engine mount bolts may hit. Put the vent in > >> the > >> > filler neck. Use a short rubber hose to connect filler cap assy. to > >filler > >> > neck. Fuel proof hose can be bought at NAPA store. Use a mechanical > fuel > >> > gauge sender that measures ohms to the electric guage. Mount the sender > >in > >> > the top of the tank, make sure it clears the center baffle. I have had > >> three > >> > probe type senders and they are junk as far as I am concerned. > Stainless > >> > makes a nice fuel tank strap but another is steel strapping used to > >crate > >> > things. Just about any dumpster at a manufacturing plant has lots of > it. > >> > Jim > >> > > >> > ----- Original Message ----- > >> > From: "Eric Schlanser" <eschlanser@yahoo.com> > >> > To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > >> > Subject: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > >> > > >> > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Eric Schlanser > >> <eschlanser@yahoo.com> > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > Group, This thread is too good to file under "hot steel". I just > >needed > >> to > >> > re-enter it so it can be located later in an archive search under > "panel > >> and > >> > fuel tank". Thanks. Eric > >> > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > >> > > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > >> > <168x@merr.com> > >> > > > >> > > Richard, Fred is right on hinging, forget it. Put two screws on each > >> side, > >> > > remove and the panel is loose. Mount the radio trays so they stay > with > >> the > >> > > panel. Curve the top of the panel at least one inch to prevent oil > >> canning > >> > > of the top panel. > >> > > .025 is to heavy for the firewall. I like to use 28 gauge, about > .015. > >> > Wicks > >> > > or Spruce have SS in about .017. If you want, 28 gauge galvanized can > >be > >> > > bought locally at a sheet metal shop, it works fine but not as > pretty. > >> > > The alum side panels, roll the bottoms around the longerons 1 1/2" > and > >> > > fasten to the lower boot cowl. Sandwich the side windows between the > >> side > >> > > boot cowl and the top instrument panel with screws going into the > >> > instrument > >> > > top panel. I make the top panel in three pieces, the sides about six > >> > inches > >> > > wide. > >> > > 1/2" tube is fine for the W/S frame but use .028 or .035. Weld tabs > to > >> > screw > >> > > the W/S to. I will measure how high my panel is and distance from the > >> > floor > >> > > when I go to the airport today. Jim > >> > > > >> > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> > > From: "Richard Lamb" > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Richard Lamb > >> > > > > >> > > > He never lets me have any fun :( > >> > > > > >> > > > I still like that cross tube tho. > >> > > > It's even a handy spot to secure a (hurrump) non-folding panel. > >> > > > > >> > > > I'll tell ya what, tho. > >> > > > Jim commented about making the tank easily removable. > >> > > > I'll take that one at face value. > >> > > > The only thing under the tank are the mount straps > >> > > > and the fuel line. > >> > > > > >> > > > I've had the front cabin side panels clecoed on. > >> > > > Trying to get a feel for how to get everything flush and > >> > > > rolled around to the bottom. That's interesting. > >> > > > > >> > > > I need a firewall material, and, of course, want stainless. > >> > > > The .025 stuff I've seem locally is twice too heavy. > >> > > > Any alternate source for .017?? > >> > > > > >> > > > This weekend, I bent the windshield frame for the parasol. > >> > > > 1/2" .040 4130 tube. Came out pretty nice. I think I > >> > > > see how to form the winshield frame for the TW now. > >> > > > By comparison, that will be easy. > >> > > > > >> > > > Door skins and windows and frames, oh my! > >> > > > Especially the back window. > >> > > > I think I see now why the long pointy one is so popular! > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > Fred Weaver wrote: > >> > > > > > >> > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Fred Weaver" > >> > > > > > >> > > > > Yo Richard... You really don't need the hinged panel. Hinging the > >> > panel > >> > > is > >> > > > > just a lot more engineering and you will find out with time, that > >> you > >> > > don't > >> > > > > need it at all. Simplify your design by screwing it together... > >It's > >> > > not > >> > > > > like you are loading the thing with GPS, Autopilot, > Radios(plural) > >> etc > >> > > > > etc... The stuff you install will be fairly accessible thru the > >top > >> > > cover > >> > > > > of the dash. > >> > > > > > >> > > > > Once the plane flies, you will be spending lots of time in the > air > >> and > >> > > you > >> > > > > won't be doinking around pivoting your panel down for > maintenance. > >> > > > > Honest..... > >> > > > > Weav > >> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> > > > > From: Richard Lamb > >> > > > > To: > >> > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Richard Lamb > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > Thanks Jim. > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > Actually, that bottom tube looks pretty handy. > >> > > > > > It's located back three inches from the door frame tube. > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > I have moved the panel aft. > >> > > > > > The panel itself is back 5 or 6 inches from the door frame. > >> > > > > > There's no obstructions at all for the top row, and the cross > >> > > > > > tube is 8 or 9 inches (?) in front of the panel. > >> > > > > > Think that will be enough room? > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > Some of those panel drawing I did think that lower cross tube > >> > > > > > would be exactly the right spot to hinge mount an instrument > >> panel. > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > The throttle at high center, and the radios in the top of the > >> panel > >> > > > > > would have to be mounted permenately. But the rest of the panel > >> > > > > > could easily swing down. Having the pivot point back behind the > >> > > > > > panel that far lets all the gauges swing clear without hitting > >> > > > > > anything. The Tailwind panel is fairly small, and the floors > >> > > > > > fairly comfortable without a stick sticking in my back. > >> > > > > > Still, it's an intriguing idea. > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > You know better than most people how far back behind that thing > >> > > > > > you have to go sometimes... > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > Jim and Donna Clement wrote: > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > >> > > > > <168x@merr.com> > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > > Richard, Cut the bottom tube out also, then you can make the > >> panel > >> > > to > >> > > > > your > >> > > > > > > liking. Bring it back enough to get things in with out > hitting > >> the > >> > > fuel > >> > > > > > > tank. Jim > >> > > Subject: Fw: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > >> > > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Dallas Benham" > >> > > > >> > > Richard and Jim: > >> > > > >> > > Below is from my files on previous conversations about Tailwind > >> > construction. > >> > > Hope it helps. > >> > > > >> > > Dallas > >> > > > >> > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> > > From: "Rick and Cindy" > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Rick and Cindy > >> > > > > >> > > > JohnD: Made some measurements of N393RC, floor (1/4" ply) to bottom > >of > >> > fuel tank > >> > > > (29.8 gal) is 12", floor to bottom of panel is 20 3/4", panel is 8 > >> 1/8" > >> > tall, > >> > > > top of panel to bottom of front spar carry through is 8 3/8". > >> > > > Rick N393RC > >> > > > > >> > > > john wrote: > >> > > > > >> > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "john" > >> > > > > > >> > > > > I'm looking for some input on the panel. I measured Clements > panel > >> at > >> > > > > Oshkosh and it measured 19 1/2" to the bottom, 10 1/2" of panel, > >> which > >> > > > > leaves 7" from the top of the panel, is this about what you > >fellows > >> > have > >> > > > > come up with in your W-10s'? Clements fuel tank measured 10 1/2" > >> above > >> > the > >> > > > > floor. I must have big feet because my shoes measure 12"s', What > >is > >> > > > > everyone doing about the distance from the floor to the tank? > >> > Thankyou. > >> > > > > JohnD > >> > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > >> > > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > >> > <168x@merr.com> > >> > > > >> > > Looks about right, for sure go with the 12" floor to bottom of tank > >> > height. > >> > > Jim > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> > > From: "Dallas Benham" > >> > > Subject: Fw: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Dallas Benham" > >> > > > >> > > From: "Louis Owen" > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > >> > > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Louis Owen" > >> > > > >> > > My floor to tank bottom was 13". I have rather big feet. > >> > > Lou Owen > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > --------------------------------- > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:20:01 PM PST US
    From: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: W-8 Elevators
    --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> Thanks Jim and Earl for your replies. When you bend chromoly tubing, do you do it with heat or do it cold? Bill Newkirk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: W-8 Elevators > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > Bill, It is not important but the W10 type lighten the feel, especially > while in the pattern and while landing. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > To: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com>; <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: W-8 Elevators > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > > > > The W-8 project I have inherited has no provision for balancing the > > elevators. Is this important? Should the elevators be modified similar > to > > W-10 elevators? > > > > Bill Newkirk > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > > To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > > > > > > The strap 'T" bolts can also be taken from those expensive hose clamps > > that > > > they sell at hydraulic shops. They are also stainless. > > > > > > Also, Jim C, what is a 'boot cowl'? > > > > > > Bill Newkirk > > > W - 8 1/2 > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > > To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > > > Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:57 PM > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > > <168x@merr.com> > > > > > > > > Bill, They make a strap bolt just for fuel tank straps. I buy them for > > > about > > > > $2-3 each from the hardware vender at OSH. Forget the name, he is the > > one > > > > with lots of stuff in a big tent. Also sells cowhides. Someone here > will > > > > come up with his name, from Wichita area. It is a three inch tee bolt. > > you > > > > put a hole in your strap, then bend the short end around and either > weld > > > or > > > > rivet to itself. > > > > Make your tank 12" from the floor and pound a sump [big dent about > 1/2" > > > > deep, 6-7" diameter] with a outlet welded in. start bending the tank > > > > gradually up towards the inst. panel within 2-3" from the rear edge of > > the > > > > sump. Reason being, if the tank is flat beyond the fuel pickup, fuel > > runs > > > > towards the rear of the tank and pulls fuel out of and away from the > > > pickup. > > > > This happens when take off is attempted with low fuel, 6-7 gallons or > > so. > > > > Make the tank same width, don't try to taper to match the fuselage > > > > dimension. Give yourself no less than 1/2" clearance on each side, > they > > > seem > > > > to grow during construction and welding. You might have to cut off the > > > upper > > > > corners in the front as the engine mount bolts may hit. Put the vent > in > > > the > > > > filler neck. Use a short rubber hose to connect filler cap assy. to > > filler > > > > neck. Fuel proof hose can be bought at NAPA store. Use a mechanical > fuel > > > > gauge sender that measures ohms to the electric guage. Mount the > sender > > in > > > > the top of the tank, make sure it clears the center baffle. I have had > > > three > > > > probe type senders and they are junk as far as I am concerned. > Stainless > > > > makes a nice fuel tank strap but another is steel strapping used to > > crate > > > > things. Just about any dumpster at a manufacturing plant has lots of > it. > > > > Jim > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Eric Schlanser" <eschlanser@yahoo.com> > > > > To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > > > > Subject: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Eric Schlanser > > > <eschlanser@yahoo.com> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Group, This thread is too good to file under "hot steel". I just > > needed > > > to > > > > re-enter it so it can be located later in an archive search under > "panel > > > and > > > > fuel tank". Thanks. Eric > > > > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > > > <168x@merr.com> > > > > > > > > > > Richard, Fred is right on hinging, forget it. Put two screws on each > > > side, > > > > > remove and the panel is loose. Mount the radio trays so they stay > with > > > the > > > > > panel. Curve the top of the panel at least one inch to prevent oil > > > canning > > > > > of the top panel. > > > > > .025 is to heavy for the firewall. I like to use 28 gauge, about > .015. > > > > Wicks > > > > > or Spruce have SS in about .017. If you want, 28 gauge galvanized > can > > be > > > > > bought locally at a sheet metal shop, it works fine but not as > pretty. > > > > > The alum side panels, roll the bottoms around the longerons 1 1/2" > and > > > > > fasten to the lower boot cowl. Sandwich the side windows between the > > > side > > > > > boot cowl and the top instrument panel with screws going into the > > > > instrument > > > > > top panel. I make the top panel in three pieces, the sides about six > > > > inches > > > > > wide. > > > > > 1/2" tube is fine for the W/S frame but use .028 or .035. Weld tabs > to > > > > screw > > > > > the W/S to. I will measure how high my panel is and distance from > the > > > > floor > > > > > when I go to the airport today. Jim > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From: "Richard Lamb" > > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Richard Lamb > > > > > > > > > > > > He never lets me have any fun :( > > > > > > > > > > > > I still like that cross tube tho. > > > > > > It's even a handy spot to secure a (hurrump) non-folding panel. > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll tell ya what, tho. > > > > > > Jim commented about making the tank easily removable. > > > > > > I'll take that one at face value. > > > > > > The only thing under the tank are the mount straps > > > > > > and the fuel line. > > > > > > > > > > > > I've had the front cabin side panels clecoed on. > > > > > > Trying to get a feel for how to get everything flush and > > > > > > rolled around to the bottom. That's interesting. > > > > > > > > > > > > I need a firewall material, and, of course, want stainless. > > > > > > The .025 stuff I've seem locally is twice too heavy. > > > > > > Any alternate source for .017?? > > > > > > > > > > > > This weekend, I bent the windshield frame for the parasol. > > > > > > 1/2" .040 4130 tube. Came out pretty nice. I think I > > > > > > see how to form the winshield frame for the TW now. > > > > > > By comparison, that will be easy. > > > > > > > > > > > > Door skins and windows and frames, oh my! > > > > > > Especially the back window. > > > > > > I think I see now why the long pointy one is so popular! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Fred Weaver wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Fred Weaver" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yo Richard... You really don't need the hinged panel. Hinging > the > > > > panel > > > > > is > > > > > > > just a lot more engineering and you will find out with time, > that > > > you > > > > > don't > > > > > > > need it at all. Simplify your design by screwing it together... > > It's > > > > > not > > > > > > > like you are loading the thing with GPS, Autopilot, > Radios(plural) > > > etc > > > > > > > etc... The stuff you install will be fairly accessible thru the > > top > > > > > cover > > > > > > > of the dash. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Once the plane flies, you will be spending lots of time in the > air > > > and > > > > > you > > > > > > > won't be doinking around pivoting your panel down for > maintenance. > > > > > > > Honest..... > > > > > > > Weav > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > > > From: Richard Lamb > > > > > > > To: > > > > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Richard Lamb > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks Jim. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Actually, that bottom tube looks pretty handy. > > > > > > > > It's located back three inches from the door frame tube. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have moved the panel aft. > > > > > > > > The panel itself is back 5 or 6 inches from the door frame. > > > > > > > > There's no obstructions at all for the top row, and the cross > > > > > > > > tube is 8 or 9 inches (?) in front of the panel. > > > > > > > > Think that will be enough room? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Some of those panel drawing I did think that lower cross tube > > > > > > > > would be exactly the right spot to hinge mount an instrument > > > panel. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The throttle at high center, and the radios in the top of the > > > panel > > > > > > > > would have to be mounted permenately. But the rest of the > panel > > > > > > > > could easily swing down. Having the pivot point back behind > the > > > > > > > > panel that far lets all the gauges swing clear without hitting > > > > > > > > anything. The Tailwind panel is fairly small, and the floors > > > > > > > > fairly comfortable without a stick sticking in my back. > > > > > > > > Still, it's an intriguing idea. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > You know better than most people how far back behind that > thing > > > > > > > > you have to go sometimes... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Jim and Donna Clement wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > > > > > > <168x@merr.com> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Richard, Cut the bottom tube out also, then you can make the > > > panel > > > > > to > > > > > > > your > > > > > > > > > liking. Bring it back enough to get things in with out > hitting > > > the > > > > > fuel > > > > > > > > > tank. Jim > > > > > Subject: Fw: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Dallas Benham" > > > > > > > > > > Richard and Jim: > > > > > > > > > > Below is from my files on previous conversations about Tailwind > > > > construction. > > > > > Hope it helps. > > > > > > > > > > Dallas > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From: "Rick and Cindy" > > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Rick and Cindy > > > > > > > > > > > > JohnD: Made some measurements of N393RC, floor (1/4" ply) to > bottom > > of > > > > fuel tank > > > > > > (29.8 gal) is 12", floor to bottom of panel is 20 3/4", panel is 8 > > > 1/8" > > > > tall, > > > > > > top of panel to bottom of front spar carry through is 8 3/8". > > > > > > Rick N393RC > > > > > > > > > > > > john wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "john" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm looking for some input on the panel. I measured Clements > panel > > > at > > > > > > > Oshkosh and it measured 19 1/2" to the bottom, 10 1/2" of panel, > > > which > > > > > > > leaves 7" from the top of the panel, is this about what you > > fellows > > > > have > > > > > > > come up with in your W-10s'? Clements fuel tank measured 10 1/2" > > > above > > > > the > > > > > > > floor. I must have big feet because my shoes measure 12"s', What > > is > > > > > > > everyone doing about the distance from the floor to the tank? > > > > Thankyou. > > > > > > > JohnD > > > > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > > > <168x@merr.com> > > > > > > > > > > Looks about right, for sure go with the 12" floor to bottom of tank > > > > height. > > > > > Jim > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From: "Dallas Benham" > > > > > Subject: Fw: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Dallas Benham" > > > > > > > > > > From: "Louis Owen" > > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > > > > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Louis Owen" > > > > > > > > > > My floor to tank bottom was 13". I have rather big feet. > > > > > Lou Owen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:23:30 PM PST US
    From: "Fred Weaver" <Mytyweav@flash.net>
    Subject: Re: W-8 Elevators
    --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Fred Weaver" <Mytyweav@flash.net> Bill.... I guess I have to put my 2 cents worth into this.... The size of the stab/elevator combination should be increased IF you are planning on using a Lycoming engine for power. If you are using an 0-200 or C-85, you can throw my comments in the trash bin. However, if you are going to go with a 135 to 160 hp lycoming, you would be well advised to build the stab bigger and balance the elevators just like a W10. The thing is.....with the heavier engine comes a requirement for more decalage or stab angle to harmonize the trim. This is because the dry CG is so much farther forward. A stock W8 with the heavier engine develops very high stick loads when slowing down in the pattern for landing. AND Landing too... Also, without the added area, the stab develops a higher level of drag in the cruise configuration. With more area, you don't have to have all the angle required for straight and level trim.. I flew one stock for over 10 years without the added area.. It worked but I always wanted to change the way it felt........ If I had to do over, I would definitely add stab area along with W10 elevators. I think this would help the W8 go faster and come so much closer to the nice feel of the W10. On long trips, I would reduce the stab angle to increase my cruise speed by 7 mph. This only created higher stick forces when landing and taking off but I really liked the extra speed. Which engine are you going to install? Fred Weaver Sutter Creek, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill newkirk <bilnewkirk@msn.com> Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: W-8 Elevators > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > > Thanks for the replies. Leaving them stock would certainly be easier, > because they are completed. > > Bill Newkirk > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <jcsteele@ripnet.com> > To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: W-8 Elevators > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: <jcsteele@ripnet.com> > > > > NO.. Mine is per plans and works fine Jack Steele C-Fsny > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Bill newkirk <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > > To: Bill newkirk <bilnewkirk@msn.com>; tailwind-list@matronics.com > > <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > > Date: Friday, December 20, 2002 11:28 PM > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: W-8 Elevators > > > > > > >--> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > > > > > >The W-8 project I have inherited has no provision for balancing the > > >elevators. Is this important? Should the elevators be modified similar > to > > >W-10 elevators? > > > > > >Bill Newkirk > > > > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > >From: "Bill newkirk" <bilnewkirk@msn.com> > > >To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > > >Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > > > > > > > >> The strap 'T" bolts can also be taken from those expensive hose clamps > > >that > > >> they sell at hydraulic shops. They are also stainless. > > >> > > >> Also, Jim C, what is a 'boot cowl'? > > >> > > >> Bill Newkirk > > >> W - 8 1/2 > > >> > > >> > > >> ----- Original Message ----- > > >> From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > >> To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > > >> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 7:57 PM > > >> Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > >> > > >> > > >> > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > >> <168x@merr.com> > > >> > > > >> > Bill, They make a strap bolt just for fuel tank straps. I buy them > for > > >> about > > >> > $2-3 each from the hardware vender at OSH. Forget the name, he is the > > >one > > >> > with lots of stuff in a big tent. Also sells cowhides. Someone here > > will > > >> > come up with his name, from Wichita area. It is a three inch tee > bolt. > > >you > > >> > put a hole in your strap, then bend the short end around and either > > weld > > >> or > > >> > rivet to itself. > > >> > Make your tank 12" from the floor and pound a sump [big dent about > 1/2" > > >> > deep, 6-7" diameter] with a outlet welded in. start bending the tank > > >> > gradually up towards the inst. panel within 2-3" from the rear edge > of > > >the > > >> > sump. Reason being, if the tank is flat beyond the fuel pickup, fuel > > >runs > > >> > towards the rear of the tank and pulls fuel out of and away from the > > >> pickup. > > >> > This happens when take off is attempted with low fuel, 6-7 gallons or > > >so. > > >> > Make the tank same width, don't try to taper to match the fuselage > > >> > dimension. Give yourself no less than 1/2" clearance on each side, > they > > >> seem > > >> > to grow during construction and welding. You might have to cut off > the > > >> upper > > >> > corners in the front as the engine mount bolts may hit. Put the vent > in > > >> the > > >> > filler neck. Use a short rubber hose to connect filler cap assy. to > > >filler > > >> > neck. Fuel proof hose can be bought at NAPA store. Use a mechanical > > fuel > > >> > gauge sender that measures ohms to the electric guage. Mount the > sender > > >in > > >> > the top of the tank, make sure it clears the center baffle. I have > had > > >> three > > >> > probe type senders and they are junk as far as I am concerned. > > Stainless > > >> > makes a nice fuel tank strap but another is steel strapping used to > > >crate > > >> > things. Just about any dumpster at a manufacturing plant has lots of > > it. > > >> > Jim > > >> > > > >> > ----- Original Message ----- > > >> > From: "Eric Schlanser" <eschlanser@yahoo.com> > > >> > To: <tailwind-list@matronics.com> > > >> > Subject: Tailwind-List: Re: panel and fuel tank was re: hot steel > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Eric Schlanser > > >> <eschlanser@yahoo.com> > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > Group, This thread is too good to file under "hot steel". I just > > >needed > > >> to > > >> > re-enter it so it can be located later in an archive search under > > "panel > > >> and > > >> > fuel tank". Thanks. Eric > > >> > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > > >> > > > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > >> > <168x@merr.com> > > >> > > > > >> > > Richard, Fred is right on hinging, forget it. Put two screws on > each > > >> side, > > >> > > remove and the panel is loose. Mount the radio trays so they stay > > with > > >> the > > >> > > panel. Curve the top of the panel at least one inch to prevent oil > > >> canning > > >> > > of the top panel. > > >> > > .025 is to heavy for the firewall. I like to use 28 gauge, about > > .015. > > >> > Wicks > > >> > > or Spruce have SS in about .017. If you want, 28 gauge galvanized > can > > >be > > >> > > bought locally at a sheet metal shop, it works fine but not as > > pretty. > > >> > > The alum side panels, roll the bottoms around the longerons 1 1/2" > > and > > >> > > fasten to the lower boot cowl. Sandwich the side windows between > the > > >> side > > >> > > boot cowl and the top instrument panel with screws going into the > > >> > instrument > > >> > > top panel. I make the top panel in three pieces, the sides about > six > > >> > inches > > >> > > wide. > > >> > > 1/2" tube is fine for the W/S frame but use .028 or .035. Weld tabs > > to > > >> > screw > > >> > > the W/S to. I will measure how high my panel is and distance from > the > > >> > floor > > >> > > when I go to the airport today. Jim > > >> > > > > >> > > ----- Original Message ----- > > >> > > From: "Richard Lamb" > > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Richard Lamb > > >> > > > > > >> > > > He never lets me have any fun :( > > >> > > > > > >> > > > I still like that cross tube tho. > > >> > > > It's even a handy spot to secure a (hurrump) non-folding panel. > > >> > > > > > >> > > > I'll tell ya what, tho. > > >> > > > Jim commented about making the tank easily removable. > > >> > > > I'll take that one at face value. > > >> > > > The only thing under the tank are the mount straps > > >> > > > and the fuel line. > > >> > > > > > >> > > > I've had the front cabin side panels clecoed on. > > >> > > > Trying to get a feel for how to get everything flush and > > >> > > > rolled around to the bottom. That's interesting. > > >> > > > > > >> > > > I need a firewall material, and, of course, want stainless. > > >> > > > The .025 stuff I've seem locally is twice too heavy. > > >> > > > Any alternate source for .017?? > > >> > > > > > >> > > > This weekend, I bent the windshield frame for the parasol. > > >> > > > 1/2" .040 4130 tube. Came out pretty nice. I think I > > >> > > > see how to form the winshield frame for the TW now. > > >> > > > By comparison, that will be easy. > > >> > > > > > >> > > > Door skins and windows and frames, oh my! > > >> > > > Especially the back window. > > >> > > > I think I see now why the long pointy one is so popular! > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > > >> > > > Fred Weaver wrote: > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Fred Weaver" > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > Yo Richard... You really don't need the hinged panel. Hinging > the > > >> > panel > > >> > > is > > >> > > > > just a lot more engineering and you will find out with time, > that > > >> you > > >> > > don't > > >> > > > > need it at all. Simplify your design by screwing it together... > > >It's > > >> > > not > > >> > > > > like you are loading the thing with GPS, Autopilot, > > Radios(plural) > > >> etc > > >> > > > > etc... The stuff you install will be fairly accessible thru the > > >top > > >> > > cover > > >> > > > > of the dash. > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > Once the plane flies, you will be spending lots of time in the > > air > > >> and > > >> > > you > > >> > > > > won't be doinking around pivoting your panel down for > > maintenance. > > >> > > > > Honest..... > > >> > > > > Weav > > >> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > >> > > > > From: Richard Lamb > > >> > > > > To: > > >> > > > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: hot steel > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Richard Lamb > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > Thanks Jim. > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > Actually, that bottom tube looks pretty handy. > > >> > > > > > It's located back three inches from the door frame tube. > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > I have moved the panel aft. > > >> > > > > > The panel itself is back 5 or 6 inches from the door frame. > > >> > > > > > There's no obstructions at all for the top row, and the cross > > >> > > > > > tube is 8 or 9 inches (?) in front of the panel. > > >> > > > > > Think that will be enough room? > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > Some of those panel drawing I did think that lower cross tube > > >> > > > > > would be exactly the right spot to hinge mount an instrument > > >> panel. > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > The throttle at high center, and the radios in the top of the > > >> panel > > >> > > > > > would have to be mounted permenately. But the rest of the > panel > > >> > > > > > could easily swing down. Having the pivot point back behind > the > > >> > > > > > panel that far lets all the gauges swing clear without > hitting > > >> > > > > > anything. The Tailwind panel is fairly small, and the floors > > >> > > > > > fairly comfortable without a stick sticking in my back. > > >> > > > > > Still, it's an intriguing idea. > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > You know better than most people how far back behind that > thing > > >> > > > > > you have to go sometimes... > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > > > >> > > > > > Jim and Donna Clement wrote: > > >> > > > > > > > > >> > > > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna > Clement" > > >> > > > > <168x@merr.com> > > >> > > > > > > > > >> > > > > > > Richard, Cut the bottom tube out also, then you can make > the > > >> panel > > >> > > to > > >> > > > > your > > >> > > > > > > liking. Bring it back enough to get things in with out > > hitting > > >> the > > >> > > fuel > > >> > > > > > > tank. Jim > > >> > > Subject: Fw: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > >> > > > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Dallas Benham" > > >> > > > > >> > > Richard and Jim: > > >> > > > > >> > > Below is from my files on previous conversations about Tailwind > > >> > construction. > > >> > > Hope it helps. > > >> > > > > >> > > Dallas > > >> > > > > >> > > ----- Original Message ----- > > >> > > From: "Rick and Cindy" > > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Rick and Cindy > > >> > > > > > >> > > > JohnD: Made some measurements of N393RC, floor (1/4" ply) to > bottom > > >of > > >> > fuel tank > > >> > > > (29.8 gal) is 12", floor to bottom of panel is 20 3/4", panel is > 8 > > >> 1/8" > > >> > tall, > > >> > > > top of panel to bottom of front spar carry through is 8 3/8". > > >> > > > Rick N393RC > > >> > > > > > >> > > > john wrote: > > >> > > > > > >> > > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "john" > > >> > > > > > > >> > > > > I'm looking for some input on the panel. I measured Clements > > panel > > >> at > > >> > > > > Oshkosh and it measured 19 1/2" to the bottom, 10 1/2" of > panel, > > >> which > > >> > > > > leaves 7" from the top of the panel, is this about what you > > >fellows > > >> > have > > >> > > > > come up with in your W-10s'? Clements fuel tank measured 10 > 1/2" > > >> above > > >> > the > > >> > > > > floor. I must have big feet because my shoes measure 12"s', > What > > >is > > >> > > > > everyone doing about the distance from the floor to the tank? > > >> > Thankyou. > > >> > > > > JohnD > > >> > > From: "Jim and Donna Clement" <168x@merr.com> > > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > >> > > > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Jim and Donna Clement" > > >> > <168x@merr.com> > > >> > > > > >> > > Looks about right, for sure go with the 12" floor to bottom of tank > > >> > height. > > >> > > Jim > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > ----- Original Message ----- > > >> > > From: "Dallas Benham" > > >> > > Subject: Fw: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Dallas Benham" > > >> > > > > >> > > From: "Louis Owen" > > >> > > Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: panel and fuel tank > > >> > > > > >> > > --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Louis Owen" > > >> > > > > >> > > My floor to tank bottom was 13". I have rather big feet. > > >> > > Lou Owen > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > --------------------------------- > > >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > >




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