Tailwind-List Digest Archive

Mon 02/03/03


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 11:01 AM - O-O gear (Rick and Cindy)
     2. 01:06 PM - Re: Building of metal wings (Ross & Shirley Leach)
     3. 01:06 PM - Re: Electrical Wire (Ross & Shirley Leach)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 11:01:19 AM PST US
    From: Rick and Cindy <rcaviate@ne.infi.net>
    Subject: O-O gear
    --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Rick and Cindy <rcaviate@ne.infi.net> Attn David Magaw: Couldn't reply to your message for some reason. Anyway, O-O II gear will be bolted on in a similar fashion to the original. A center attach point will be used which keeps down the flexing and possibility of overstressing the lower longerons. Matter of fact, Robbie Grove of Grove aircraft, who made the gear, just about insisted that I use a center attach point. Rick N241SW


    Message 2


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    Time: 01:06:11 PM PST US
    From: "Ross & Shirley Leach" <bacs@powerup.com.au>
    Subject: Re: Building of metal wings
    --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Ross & Shirley Leach" <bacs@powerup.com.au> Bill, Thank you for writing. Without people like yourself it would be much harder to scratch build aircraft because of all the unseen problems you run into. I have no problems building with either wood or metal as I done both in the past. I'm not one to redesign a good aircraft but sometimes you have to make some changes to suit the conditions. One thing no one has mentioned is that by carrying the fuel in the wings less is put on the fuselage and struts. I think if I went the metal wing way, I would make fibreglass wing tips similar to the W10 ones because I feel they are possible very important in how it handles in flight. The other option is to build a fibreglass wing with fuel cells. I have seen the Jabiru wings made at their factory and they have been thoroughly tested at far excessive loads than which is stated in their brochures. The purist could then not complain about the smooth finish, of which I agree with. Ross Leach Caboolture Qld Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Building of metal wings --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net> Ross, I'm another one of the guys building metal wings. My tailwind will be powered with an O-320 Lycoming and will not have fuel in the wings. I built the wings from Calbie Woods' plans and did not have any trouble buying materials. I got them from Wicks Aircraft Supply in Highland, IL, for what it's worth. I decided on metal since I had the tools to work it, and did not have the tools to work with wood. I was also building the wings in a hangar without heat in the winter, so temperatures became an issue. I left the fuel out of the wings because it looked like it would be a big job to seal the wings, and possibly a maintenance problem at some point in the future if the wings began to leak. Also, there was no help from the plans as to how to actually construct the tanks, just a note that said "the tanks goe here". It also appeard to me that fuel pumps would be necessary to get fuel out of the tanks reliably. I understand that the prototype had them, but that another tailwind, which put all the fuel in the wings, did not. (This one was described in the Tailwind Times.) In order to keep things simple, I elected to go with a single tank in the fuselage. I am in the process of building that now. I hope for about 30 gallons which should be adequate for my needs. I think the advice about this quantity of fuel and a small engine is sound. Remember that any aircraft will only lift so much and it is possible to put in so much fuel that there is no way to carry anything else. I also agree that the metal wing will probably be slower than an equivalent wooden wing. The surface will be rougher just due to the thin metal skins. How much difference this makes will probably vary from aircraft to aircraft. I would also point out that if you intend to incorporate some of Jim Clement's modifications, there can be a conflict with the metal wing. As designed, the flap/aileron torque tubes are two inches (approximately) further forward than they are in the wooden wing. If the door is enlarged, the pushrods go across the door opening, if other parts are built as designed. Things also get tight if the off set rear spar carry-thru is used. Things will fit, but it gets close. The metal wing is an option, depending on one's skills and comfort with various materials. I'll know more after my aircraft flys. Good Luck Bill


    Message 3


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    Time: 01:06:11 PM PST US
    From: "Ross & Shirley Leach" <bacs@powerup.com.au>
    Subject: Re: Electrical Wire
    --> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Ross & Shirley Leach" <bacs@powerup.com.au> Eric Stick with aircraft wire because it will not go up in flames if there is a short. If the wing is wood it does not matter which wire is what. Think about it. Yes the wing is above ground. Well that's what a electrician would say. Regards Ross. Caboolture Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eric Schlanser" <eschlanser@yahoo.com> Subject: Tailwind-List: Electrical Wire --> Tailwind-List message posted by: Eric Schlanser <eschlanser@yahoo.com> Situation: Getting ready to wire up the wood wings for wing tip lights. Bought some 18 gauge electrical wire from Wicks. It is covered with white insulating coating. I would like to run a black wire for the ground wire parallel to the white power wire. Wicks doesn't sell black a/c wire. Question: Does the ground wire have to be genuine a/c wire? Where do you buy it? Can it be black hardware store or Radio Shack wire? Do you just use white and lable each end? What to do? Eric - in Michigan ---------------------------------




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