Today's Message Index:
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1. 11:01 AM - O-O gear (Rick and Cindy)
2. 01:06 PM - Re: Building of metal wings (Ross & Shirley Leach)
3. 01:06 PM - Re: Electrical Wire (Ross & Shirley Leach)
Message 1
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--> Tailwind-List message posted by: Rick and Cindy <rcaviate@ne.infi.net>
Attn David Magaw: Couldn't reply to your message for some reason.
Anyway, O-O II gear will be bolted on in a similar fashion to the
original. A center attach point will be used which keeps down the
flexing and possibility of overstressing the lower longerons. Matter of
fact, Robbie Grove of Grove aircraft, who made the gear, just about
insisted that I use a center attach point.
Rick N241SW
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Building of metal wings |
--> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Ross & Shirley Leach" <bacs@powerup.com.au>
Bill, Thank you for writing. Without people like yourself it would be much
harder to scratch build aircraft because of all the unseen problems you run
into. I have no problems building with either wood or metal as I done both
in the past. I'm not one to redesign a good aircraft but sometimes you have
to make some changes to suit the conditions. One thing no one has mentioned
is that by carrying the fuel in the wings less is put on the fuselage and
struts. I think if I went the metal wing way, I would make fibreglass wing
tips similar to the W10 ones because I feel they are possible very important
in how it handles in flight.
The other option is to build a fibreglass wing with fuel cells. I have seen
the Jabiru wings made at their factory and they have been thoroughly tested
at far excessive loads than which is stated in their brochures. The purist
could then not complain about the smooth finish, of which I agree with.
Ross Leach Caboolture Qld Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Building of metal wings
--> Tailwind-List message posted by: "William Bernard"
<billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
Ross, I'm another one of the guys building metal wings. My tailwind will be
powered with an O-320 Lycoming and will not have fuel in the wings.
I built the wings from Calbie Woods' plans and did not have any trouble
buying materials. I got them from Wicks Aircraft Supply in Highland, IL, for
what it's worth.
I decided on metal since I had the tools to work it, and did not have the
tools to work with wood. I was also building the wings in a hangar without
heat in the winter, so temperatures became an issue.
I left the fuel out of the wings because it looked like it would be a big
job to seal the wings, and possibly a maintenance problem at some point in
the future if the wings began to leak. Also, there was no help from the
plans as to how to actually construct the tanks, just a note that said "the
tanks goe here".
It also appeard to me that fuel pumps would be necessary to get fuel out of
the tanks reliably. I understand that the prototype had them, but that
another tailwind, which put all the fuel in the wings, did not. (This one
was described in the Tailwind Times.) In order to keep things simple, I
elected to go with a single tank in the fuselage. I am in the process of
building that now. I hope for about 30 gallons which should be adequate for
my needs. I think the advice about this quantity of fuel and a small engine
is sound. Remember that any aircraft will only lift so much and it is
possible to put in so much fuel that there is no way to carry anything else.
I also agree that the metal wing will probably be slower than an equivalent
wooden wing. The surface will be rougher just due to the thin metal skins.
How much difference this makes will probably vary from aircraft to aircraft.
I would also point out that if you intend to incorporate some of Jim
Clement's modifications, there can be a conflict with the metal wing. As
designed, the flap/aileron torque tubes are two inches (approximately)
further forward than they are in the wooden wing. If the door is enlarged,
the pushrods go across the door opening, if other parts are built as
designed. Things also get tight if the off set rear spar carry-thru is used.
Things will fit, but it gets close.
The metal wing is an option, depending on one's skills and comfort with
various materials. I'll know more after my aircraft flys.
Good Luck
Bill
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Electrical Wire |
--> Tailwind-List message posted by: "Ross & Shirley Leach" <bacs@powerup.com.au>
Eric
Stick with aircraft wire because it will not go up in flames if there is a
short. If the wing is wood it does not matter which wire is what. Think
about it. Yes the wing is above ground. Well that's what a electrician
would say.
Regards Ross. Caboolture Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Schlanser" <eschlanser@yahoo.com>
Subject: Tailwind-List: Electrical Wire
--> Tailwind-List message posted by: Eric Schlanser <eschlanser@yahoo.com>
Situation: Getting ready to wire up the wood wings for wing tip lights.
Bought some 18 gauge electrical wire from Wicks. It is covered with white
insulating coating. I would like to run a black wire for the ground wire
parallel to the white power wire. Wicks doesn't sell black a/c wire.
Question: Does the ground wire have to be genuine a/c wire? Where do you buy
it? Can it be black hardware store or Radio Shack wire? Do you just use
white and lable each end? What to do? Eric - in Michigan
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