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1. 07:15 AM - Re: tailwind-list@matronics.com (IslPilot@aol.com)
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--> Tailwind-List message posted by: IslPilot@aol.com
Mike:
Another hint that I can give you when working with large areas of plywood
with West is that you want the wood warmer than the resin to avoid bubbles
and pinholes in your surface. If the resin is warmer than the wood it will
cause the air in the grain of the wood to expand and bubble to the surface of
the resin resulting in little pinholes that might result in more labor
sanding and filling.....possibly resulting in a less than perfect speedy
Tailwind......can't have that!....I use heat lamps to warm the wood before I
apply the resin. It doesn't take very much heat, just warmer than the resin
which should be at "room temp". Rolling the resin on works well but just
pouring a blob on from a cup and working it out with a soft squeegee such as
used for Bondo works much faster and results in less air entrapment if your
laying your glass cloth.....After you have the surface coated and are having
your congratulatory coffee or beer check the surface for bubbles and very
gently brush them to reduce your finish work later for at least the next
hour........Let the resin set up if over cloth and then apply another coat of
resin before it is completely cured..... this will fill the weave entirely
resulting in less filling and take care of any amine blush bonding
problems....Don't worry about putting it on heavy, you can sand and fair it
easily.....like I said earlier the West sands easily but make sure to remove
the "blush residue" which is "waxy" with some warm water and ammonia before
sanding.... then your sanding will be trouble free and fast....
You said you bought 206 Hardener instead of the 205 which is great for laying
the glass but you probably don't need the extra time for any other type of
work unless your in a above 80 deg F shop environment.
Paul Baron
Charlevoix, MI
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