Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:21 AM - Re: FAA ID code for Tailwinds (William Bernard)
2. 05:39 AM - Re: Nails (Kenneth Graves)
3. 04:21 PM - Re: Nails (ROBERT MATTESON)
4. 08:57 PM - Crash (flamini2)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: FAA ID code for Tailwinds |
Thanks Rodney & Walter. I normally don't file a flight plan for local flights,
but I've got a trip coming up in a couple of weeks to the western US. On a previous
trip, I noted that the locals seemed to file flight plans regularly since
there is a lot of open space without much in the way of civilization.
I realize that its not required, but it doesn't cost anything either so why not.
I used HXB for my mustangII years ago, but thought that the FAA had come up
with individual codes for homebuilts, or at least some of them, but, as I said,
I lost the link to the web site.
Thanks again for the help.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Rodney Cody
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2004 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: FAA ID code for Tailwinds
Hi Bill,
I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for, but I list my W-8 as "HXP/U"
or change the "U" to what ever equipment you may have on board.
Talk with you later, Rod
William Bernard wrote:
Does anyone know the identifier code used on a flightplan that identifies a
Tailwind to the FAA? I used to have a web site to look that stuff up, but must
have deleted it.
Thanks for the help
Bill
Message 2
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Invest in a Sears or Power Shot Pro Staple gun. The down ward pressure is directly
over the staple and they go in straight every time. I just finished my ribs
and it was a god send.
Ken
Tom Cummings <tomlc@earthlink.net> wrote:
Thanks Alex,
I guess I forgot about the varnish coming off the head of the nails.
I will consider the clamping method. It would eliminate the need to fill the holes
when nails or staples are removed.
Too bad there isn't a way to prime the heads with a metal primer after nailing
and before varnishing so the varnish would stick. But that would be time consuming,
too.
I did experiment with a regular office style paper stapler the other day. Fine
little wire staples and not too long. Easy to slip a sharp flat blade underneath
them. I would fold the base of the stapler away out of use and place the head
on the testpiece and strike the head with my hand. Tricky part was holding
the head accurately or the staple would bend or go crooked into the capstrip.
But it sure held the pieces together tight enough when done correctly and it was
difficult to remove these type of staples so they were holding firmly.
Good thing I didn't start nailing tonight!
Tom
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Message 3
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Tom,
I personaly wouldn't use steel (magnetic) nails. No matter how well they are
coated, they will rust eventualy. I would use brass nails and leave them in
or staples and remove them after the glue sets up. Of course you could use
the steel nails and remove them later. The nails or staples have absolutly no
structural value after the glue is dry. All they do is supply clamping pressure.
One thing you do have to watch with staples is that you don't drive them
so hard that the cross bar damages the surface of the gusset, which will weaken
it. The varnish will take care of filling the holes.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Cummings
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2004 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Nails
Robert,
The nails are magnetic. They are gray in color and appear not to be coated.
I can't tell for sure.
I made the first rib yesterday as a test sample. One side with staples - the
other with nails driven in almost all the way, so I could remove them easier.
I removed the staples, (the clearical office paper kind), and nails today and
the nails left many large holes in the plywood. I guess the varnish fills these
holes? Or do I need to fill them with a putty (Super Fil) etc.? I am tempted
to put the nails back in !
So I about decided to make the rest of the ribs with nails and leave them in.
I could smear some epoxy on the plywood before placing the nails to provide
some sealing. properties. Building the ribs quickly is not a priority. Don't
mind the time.
The T-88 glue bottle says not to use glued parts above 150 degrees F. So I'd
rather leave the nails in for this reason, too.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: ROBERT MATTESON
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2004 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: Nails
I've worked on several antique aircraft with brass nails in the rib gussets
and never seen much of a problem. One of them was a 1939 Aeronca Chief that
had cardboard gussets due to a shortage of plywood in 1939. I made all new
ribs for this one, but only because the cardboard was delaminating. Are the
nails you have magnetic? The only reason I'ld use staples is because those little
nails are a pain to install.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Cummings
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 9:52 PM
Subject: Tailwind-List: Nails
I went to an old flying service today to get some 1/4 inch nails to affix
my gussets to the capstrips. I want to use nails and leave them in the ribs
just for self assurance. I am using T-88 glue. I just thought I pick some of
these nails up within a short driving distance so I could get started building
ribs this weekend.
They had some nails that were thirty years old ! They used to rebuild
Steamans there and had some left over. I couldn't tell if they were coated or
not - cement or otherwise. They had not rusted any, however. They had been transferred
from boxes to a plastic container some years ago. Looked gray in color
and may be galvanized but I can't tell for sure. I guess I could several outside
a few days and see what happens to them.
Were any of these nails ever made untreated with any coating - Which
is what I want to avoid. Or would the epoxy or varnish I use be protection enough?
Thanks,
Tom
Message 4
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Just got the bad news that Bud Dake and Ken Love were killed in a Monocoupe crash
in St Louis Sat afternoon.
Ken gave me a ride in a 1928 laird with the same engine as the Spirit of St Louis.
Bud is famous for his rebuild projects and mullicoupe and was based at Creve Coure
near St Louis.
i think there were only 7 clipped wing Monocoupes ever made and about 5 fatal crashes
if i remember right.
Makes you kind of wonder about short wing 2 placers with 180hp.
Crashed plane found in St. Charles
Post-Dispatch
06/20/2004
Two men were killed when their light vintage plane crashed Saturday in a field
in St. Charles County, according to the county sheriff's department. The plane
was found early Sunday by a friend who was searching for them in a private helicopter.
They victims were identified as Ewell "Bud" Dake, 61, of Ferguson,
the pilot and his friend, Kenny Love, 76, of Crete, Ill.
The men had taken off from Creve Coeur Airport in a 1947 two-seat plane about 5:30
p.m Saturday, according to the sheriff's department. It was found Sunday morning
off Peruque Creek Road near O'Fallon, about three miles north of the intersection
of Missouri Highway 79 and Interstate 70.
A family member said that Dake was an auto mechanic who enjoyed flying and taking
care of his plane. Dake was taking Love on a short flight around the area when
the accident occurred.
Read more on this story later on STLtoday or in Monday's Post-Dispatch.
Dennis Flamini N564DF race #53 Chicago
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