Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:12 AM - Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange (Eric Schlanser)
2. 05:28 AM - Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange (Malcolm.Lovelace@coopertools.com)
3. 05:52 AM - Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange (Jim and Donna Clement)
4. 11:00 AM - Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange (George Turner)
5. 11:26 AM - George Evans was Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange (Eric Schlanser)
6. 11:30 AM - Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange (Eric Schlanser)
7. 12:00 PM - ailerons and flaps (Richard)
8. 12:44 PM - Re: ailerons and flaps (Eric Schlanser)
9. 12:45 PM - Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange (Lovelace)
10. 12:53 PM - Re: ailerons and flaps (Lovelace)
11. 12:58 PM - Re: ailerons and flaps (Richard)
12. 04:16 PM - Re: ailerons and flaps (Jim and Donna Clement)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange |
The fuel level gauge sender attachment flange attaches the sender to the top of
the fuel tank. The flange is flat, 2.5 inches in diameter and has 5 bolt holes
in a pattern that matches the five holes in the plate at the top of the sender.
VDO offers both a bolt-on and a weld-on attachment flange with their sender.
The sender I bought and the sender Wicksaircraft sells has the bolt-on flange.
However, George Evans of Evans Aircraft builds tanks with the weld-on flange.
He never heard of the bolt-on flange and says it sounds like a leak waiting
to happen.
What are W-10 builders using? What has been the experience? Any leaks with the
bolt-on flange?
Thank you in advance - Eric Schlanser, Kalamjazoo, MI
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange |
--> Tailwind-List message posted by: Malcolm.Lovelace@CooperTools.com
Eric,
I use the bolt on with no problem. It has a gasket, saves time in welding
the flange on.
Malcolm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Schlanser [SMTP:eschlanser@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 8:13 AM
> To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Tailwind-List: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange
>
> The fuel level gauge sender attachment flange
> attaches the sender to the top of the fuel tank. The flange is flat, 2.5
> inches in diameter and has 5 bolt holes in a pattern that matches the five
> holes in the plate at the top of the sender. VDO offers both a bolt-on and
> a weld-on attachment flange with their sender. The sender I bought and the
> sender Wicksaircraft sells has the bolt-on flange. However, George Evans
> of Evans Aircraft builds tanks with the weld-on flange. He never heard of
> the bolt-on flange and says it sounds like a leak waiting to happen.
>
> What are W-10 builders using? What has been the
> experience? Any leaks with the bolt-on flange?
>
> Thank you in advance - Eric Schlanser, Kalamjazoo,
> MI
>
> _____
>
> new_mail/static/efficiency.html> - 100MB free storage!
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange |
Eric, I flush rivet the bolt on flange to the inside of the fuel tank sender hole.
the gasket seals everything up. Make sure you get the proper orientation of
the holes so the sender float arm misses things. Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Schlanser
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 7:12 AM
Subject: Tailwind-List: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange
The fuel level gauge sender attachment flange attaches the sender to the
top of the fuel tank. The flange is flat, 2.5 inches in diameter and has 5 bolt
holes in a pattern that matches the five holes in the plate at the top of
the sender. VDO offers both a bolt-on and a weld-on attachment flange with their
sender. The sender I bought and the sender Wicksaircraft sells has the bolt-on
flange. However, George Evans of Evans Aircraft builds tanks with the weld-on
flange. He never heard of the bolt-on flange and says it sounds like a leak
waiting to happen.
What are W-10 builders using? What has been the experience? Any leaks with
the bolt-on flange?
Thank you in advance - Eric Schlanser, Kalamjazoo, MI
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange |
Eric,
Where is George Evans located now. There was a George Evans just north of Phoenix.
George.....Phoenix
Eric Schlanser <eschlanser@yahoo.com> wrote:
The fuel level gauge sender attachment flange attaches the sender to the top of
the fuel tank. The flange is flat, 2.5 inches in diameter and has 5 bolt holes
in a pattern that matches the five holes in the plate at the top of the sender.
VDO offers both a bolt-on and a weld-on attachment flange with their sender.
The sender I bought and the sender Wicksaircraft sells has the bolt-on flange.
However, George Evans of Evans Aircraft builds tanks with the weld-on flange.
He never heard of the bolt-on flange and says it sounds like a leak waiting
to happen.
What are W-10 builders using? What has been the experience? Any leaks with the
bolt-on flange?
Thank you in advance - Eric Schlanser, Kalamjazoo, MI
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment |
flange
George,
He could be one and the same. Evans Aviation, Inc, 29848 N 58th St, Cave Creek,
AZ 85331. (480)585-3119. He built Dave Stamsta a very nice tank which reportedly
held together in the recent incident.
Eric Schlanser, Kalamazoo, MI
George Turner <tailwind222@yahoo.com> wrote:
Eric,
Where is George Evans located now. There was a George Evans just north of Phoenix.
George.....Phoenix
Eric Schlanser <eschlanser@yahoo.com> wrote:
The fuel level gauge sender attachment flange attaches the sender to the top of
the fuel tank. The flange is flat, 2.5 inches in diameter and has 5 bolt holes
in a pattern that matches the five holes in the plate at the top of the sender.
VDO offers both a bolt-on and a weld-on attachment flange with their sender.
The sender I bought and the sender Wicksaircraft sells has the bolt-on flange.
However, George Evans of Evans Aircraft builds tanks with the weld-on flange.
He never heard of the bolt-on flange and says it sounds like a leak waiting
to happen.
What are W-10 builders using? What has been the experience? Any leaks with the
bolt-on flange?
Thank you in advance - Eric Schlanser, Kalamjazoo, MI
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange |
Malcolm,
Do you flush rivet the flange to the inside of the sender hole like Jim C does?
Eric
Malcolm.Lovelace@coopertools.com wrote:
--> Tailwind-List message posted by: Malcolm.Lovelace@CooperTools.com
Eric,
I use the bolt on with no problem. It has a gasket, saves time in welding
the flange on.
Malcolm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Schlanser [SMTP:eschlanser@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 8:13 AM
> To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Tailwind-List: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange
>
> The fuel level gauge sender attachment flange
> attaches the sender to the top of the fuel tank. The flange is flat, 2.5
> inches in diameter and has 5 bolt holes in a pattern that matches the five
> holes in the plate at the top of the sender. VDO offers both a bolt-on and
> a weld-on attachment flange with their sender. The sender I bought and the
> sender Wicksaircraft sells has the bolt-on flange. However, George Evans
> of Evans Aircraft builds tanks with the weld-on flange. He never heard of
> the bolt-on flange and says it sounds like a leak waiting to happen.
>
> What are W-10 builders using? What has been the
> experience? Any leaks with the bolt-on flange?
>
> Thank you in advance - Eric Schlanser, Kalamjazoo,
> MI
>
> _____
>
> > new_mail/static/efficiency.html> - 100MB free storage!
---------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | ailerons and flaps |
I just finished putting the aileron and flap ass'y after closing the wing...and
found it doesn't line up.
The top of the surfaces projects in excess of 1/8" above the upper skin. (I was
just getting ready to feel good about my progress)
Here is what I plan on doing...please say something if you see an easier way, etc.
*plug holes and countersinks with wood plugs and liberal filled epoxy (not a political
statement)
*make a jig out of large chunk o'steel to guide drill bit
*mark new location, attach jig with sheetrock screws
*drill new holes.
*countersink new holes
*see what new problem I created.
Other questions:
1) I used bondo to fill the rivet holes in the aileron and flap. Can I use metal
prep and alodine as a conversion coating before priming, or will it attack
the bondo?
2) Should I use some kind of sandable primer or just epoxy prime and go... (nothing
is going to make these totally smooth...I used .020 aluminum and got plenty
of green horn beauty marks)
3) Turning the aileron tube, I get stick-slip instead of smooth motion. I used
bearing grease. Should I polish the torque tube more? Use gear oil for bearing
lubricant? Or does it smooth out when connected to the rest of the system?
4) Is everyone using #6-32 screws to attach their windshields? How big of a hole
do you drilling in the polycarbonate? (I plan on measuring the diameter of
the countersink on the washer and going about 1/32 larger than that)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: ailerons and flaps |
Rich,
... the aileron and flap ass'y after closing the wing...and found it doesn't line
up. The top of the surfaces projects in excess of 1/8" above the upper skin.
What about the lower surfaces? Are they also out of line?
Here is what I plan on doing...please say something if you see an easier way, etc.
Seems like a sound plan to me. Use West System and it should be as good as new.
Alternatively, you could cut off the hinge bolts and attach new ones 1/8 inch
higher on the hinges. Or joggle the existing bolts. I have no idea really.
Other questions:
1) Can I use metal prep and alodine as a conversion coating before priming, or
will it attack the bondo?
It shouldn't. The weak phosphoric acid shouldn't hurt the organic bondo molecule
for the couple of minutes you will be treating the metal. Just my amateur opinion.
I condition and prime before Bondo.
2) Should I use some kind of sandable primer or just epoxy prime and go... (nothing
is going to make these totally smooth...I used .020 aluminum and got plenty
of green horn beauty marks)
Jim C uses Matrix System sandable urethane primer. They are in Walled Lake, MI
and will ship it to you. $89 for a gallon of primer and quart of activator. Shipping
in quarts avoids the Hazmat charges. They have a real high build primer
if you need it or use bondo...see above comments about that.
3) Turning the aileron tube, I get stick-slip instead of smooth motion. Or does
it smooth out when connected to the rest of the system?
It will get worse. Need to leave a lot of clearance to avoid it. Shimming the hinges
to get them lined up might help.
4) Is everyone using #6-32 screws to attach their windshields?
That's what I am using.
Eric Schlanser, Kalamazoo, MI
---------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange |
Eric,
I just slip it inside the tank and hold it with one screw until I start one throught
the sending unit. If you flush rivet it make it easier to install.
Malcolm
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Schlanser
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 2:30 PM
Subject: RE: Tailwind-List: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange
Malcolm,
Do you flush rivet the flange to the inside of the sender hole like Jim C does?
Eric
Malcolm.Lovelace@coopertools.com wrote:
--> Tailwind-List message posted by: Malcolm.Lovelace@CooperTools.com
Eric,
I use the bolt on with no problem. It has a gasket, saves time in welding
the flange on.
Malcolm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Schlanser [SMTP:eschlanser@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 8:13 AM
> To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Tailwind-List: Fuel level gauge sender attachment flange
>
> The fuel level gauge sender attachment flange
> attaches the sender to the top of the fuel tank. The flange is flat, 2.5
> inches in diameter and has 5 bolt holes in a pattern that matches the five
> holes in the plate at the top of the sender. VDO offers both a bolt-on
and
> a weld-on attachment flange with their sender. The sender I bought and
the
> sender Wicksaircraft sells has t he ns:
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: ailerons and flaps |
Richard,
I did the same thing. I made a 3/8 or 1/2 diameter sleeve with a 3/16 hole for
the hinge bolt. Grind or file the hole down to get the alingment correct, then
size the hole to fit the alum. bushing, epoxy in. Glue a washer or plate inside
rear spar so it won't pull out.
Malcolm
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 2:56 PM
Subject: Tailwind-List: ailerons and flaps
I just finished putting the aileron and flap ass'y after closing the wing...and
found it doesn't line up.
The top of the surfaces projects in excess of 1/8" above the upper skin. (I
was just getting ready to feel good about my progress)
Here is what I plan on doing...please say something if you see an easier way,
etc.
*plug holes and countersinks with wood plugs and liberal filled epoxy (not
a political statement)
*make a jig out of large chunk o'steel to guide drill bit
*mark new location, attach jig with sheetrock screws
*drill new holes.
*countersink new holes
*see what new problem I created.
Other questions:
1) I used bondo to fill the rivet holes in the aileron and flap. Can I use
metal prep and alodine as a conversion coating before priming, or will it attack
the bondo?
2) Should I use some kind of sandable primer or just epoxy prime and go...
(nothing is going to make these totally smooth...I used .020 aluminum and got
plenty of green horn beauty marks)
3) Turning the aileron tube, I get stick-slip instead of smooth motion. I
used bearing grease. Should I polish the torque tube more? Use gear oil for bearing
lubricant? Or does it smooth out when connected to the rest of the system?
4) Is everyone using #6-32 screws to attach their windshields? How big of
a hole do you drilling in the polycarbonate? (I plan on measuring the diameter
of the countersink on the washer and going about 1/32 larger than that)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: ailerons and flaps |
The hinges are 1/8" above the lower wing skin.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 2:56 PM
Subject: Tailwind-List: ailerons and flaps
I just finished putting the aileron and flap ass'y after closing the wing...and
found it doesn't line up.
The top of the surfaces projects in excess of 1/8" above the upper skin. (I
was just getting ready to feel good about my progress)
Here is what I plan on doing...please say something if you see an easier way,
etc.
*plug holes and countersinks with wood plugs and liberal filled epoxy (not a
political statement)
*make a jig out of large chunk o'steel to guide drill bit
*mark new location, attach jig with sheetrock screws
*drill new holes.
*countersink new holes
*see what new problem I created.
Other questions:
1) I used bondo to fill the rivet holes in the aileron and flap. Can I use
metal prep and alodine as a conversion coating before priming, or will it attack
the bondo?
2) Should I use some kind of sandable primer or just epoxy prime and go... (nothing
is going to make these totally smooth...I used .020 aluminum and got plenty
of green horn beauty marks)
3) Turning the aileron tube, I get stick-slip instead of smooth motion. I used
bearing grease. Should I polish the torque tube more? Use gear oil for bearing
lubricant? Or does it smooth out when connected to the rest of the system?
4) Is everyone using #6-32 screws to attach their windshields? How big of a
hole do you drilling in the polycarbonate? (I plan on measuring the diameter
of the countersink on the washer and going about 1/32 larger than that)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: ailerons and flaps |
Richard,The method to plug the holes works, believe me.
#1 Using just the alodine without metalprep will work. What works best is, wet
sanding the aluminum using alodine and a scotchbrite pad. Let it set for a while
but before it dries out and rinse with water. Bondo will stick to sanded aluminum
but will stick better if applied over epoxy primer. The alodine will attack
the feathered edges of bondo slightly.
#2 You can put sandable primer over cured epoxy or put a couple extra coats of
epoxy and wet sand it.
#3 Find out where it is sticking and free it up. If the center bushing was made
to a nice fit it sometimes binds up. I give mine about .030-.040 clearance. 3&1
oil works good.
#4 No less than 2 times the screw diameter, It's a big w/s and expands and contracts
a lot.
Jim C
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: Tailwind-List: ailerons and flaps
The hinges are 1/8" above the lower wing skin.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard
To: tailwind-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 2:56 PM
Subject: Tailwind-List: ailerons and flaps
I just finished putting the aileron and flap ass'y after closing the wing...and
found it doesn't line up.
The top of the surfaces projects in excess of 1/8" above the upper skin. (I
was just getting ready to feel good about my progress)
Here is what I plan on doing...please say something if you see an easier way,
etc.
*plug holes and countersinks with wood plugs and liberal filled epoxy (not
a political statement)
*make a jig out of large chunk o'steel to guide drill bit
*mark new location, attach jig with sheetrock screws
*drill new holes.
*countersink new holes
*see what new problem I created.
Other questions:
1) I used bondo to fill the rivet holes in the aileron and flap. Can I use
metal prep and alodine as a conversion coating before priming, or will it attack
the bondo?
2) Should I use some kind of sandable primer or just epoxy prime and go...
(nothing is going to make these totally smooth...I used .020 aluminum and got
plenty of green horn beauty marks)
3) Turning the aileron tube, I get stick-slip instead of smooth motion. I
used bearing grease. Should I polish the torque tube more? Use gear oil for bearing
lubricant? Or does it smooth out when connected to the rest of the system?
4) Is everyone using #6-32 screws to attach their windshields? How big of
a hole do you drilling in the polycarbonate? (I plan on measuring the diameter
of the countersink on the washer and going about 1/32 larger than that)
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