Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:46 AM - Re: Engine Mount (JRoss10612@aol.com)
2. 03:15 PM - Re: Engine Mount (Rcaprd@AOL.COM)
3. 05:51 PM - Re: Engine Mount (JRoss10612@aol.com)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
Chuck:
Not sure about the engine mount lugs, Jim C. can answer this.
As far as the engine case, it is the through studs that are causing the case
halves to stay together. This is a press fit on the stud and case, and they
can be driven out with a tool. Mattituck uses a special tool that threads on
to the stud; it is about 1.5 inches in diameter and about four inches long,
made of steel, threaded on one end to accept the stud threads. The idea is to
drive the stud out and not damage the case or stud threads.
If you have access to a lathe you can make this tool fairly easily. I have
seen people drive the studs out using a nut on the end of the stud and tapping
it with a brass hammer. that's a risky way to proceed and I don't recommend
it. Keep track of which stud comes out of which location because they may
not all be the same diameter. This is a press fit, and one or more studs in
your engine may be oversize. When this stud is not a tight fit it will cause oil
leaks. There is a mod you can do to the case to include O rings in the case
halves during assembly.
Best regards,
Jon Ross
RV-8
Tailwind wannabe
I've now got the fuselage all welded up, and starting on the engine mount
and empenage. I bought the dynafocal portion of the mount from AS&S. I have
the C. Leblanc plans for the Lyc O-320 engine mount, as well as all Jim C.
pictures, all the Tailwind Times, and every other picture I could find on the
Internet, including the 'Construction Photo Guide, and I can't find anything
that shows clear detail how to do the bottom lugs of the engine mount.
There is a vertical 7/8 X .049 which intersects the top lug .31" aft of
the firewall, but I just can't see how these tubes attach to the bottom lugs.
It's hard to tell how the bottom horizontal 7/8 tubes attach to the lugs,
as well. Anyone have any pictures of this ?
I disassembled the engine today, but I can't get the case halves apart.
I am sure I've got all the bolts out, including the castle nut behind the
cam gear. Anyone have tricks to get it apart without damage ?
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
In a message dated 7/10/2006 7:47:43 AM Central Standard Time,
JRoss10612@aol.com writes:
Chuck:
Not sure about the engine mount lugs, Jim C. can answer this.
As far as the engine case, it is the through studs that are causing the case
halves to stay together. This is a press fit on the stud and case, and they
can be driven out with a tool. Mattituck uses a special tool that threads on to
the stud; it is about 1.5 inches in diameter and about four inches long, made
of steel, threaded on one end to accept the stud threads. The idea is to drive
the stud out and not damage the case or stud threads.
If you have access to a lathe you can make this tool fairly easily. I have
seen people drive the studs out using a nut on the end of the stud and tapping
it with a brass hammer. that's a risky way to proceed and I don't recommend
it. Keep track of which stud comes out of which location because they may not
all be the same diameter. This is a press fit, and one or more studs in your
engine may be oversize. When this stud is not a tight fit it will cause oil
leaks. There is a mod you can do to the case to include O rings in the case halves
during assembly.
Best regards,
Jon Ross
RV-8
Tailwind wannabe
Jon,
I was afraid someone would say I need a special tool. It's not clear to me
how this tool works. Do you just keep tightening the tool, till the stud pulls
through ? There are two studs on the Aft #2 cylinder that go through to the
fwd of #3 cylinder. Are these two center studs the ones you are referring to ?
If that is the case, then when torqueing the nuts, they would have to be
done evenly, at the same time, or you may pull the stud from side to side. There
are two studs that have nuts on them, on the Forward Left Hand Case, but are
threaded into the other case half. Then there is two studs on the aft of #4
that go through to the other case half. The remaining studs end in the case at
the cylinder holes.
Chuck G.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
Chuck:
You've got it right, mostly anyway. The tool is used as a threaded weight
that is hit with a hammer to drive the stud out. The stud is machined to a close
tolerance slightly larger diameter in the middle, when you drive it down
about 1/2" or so it will come loose from the machined bore in the case.
You could use lubricated washers on the studs and pull them out by
tightening the nut. But you'll have to keep taking the nut off and adding more
washers/spacers so that the threads don't bottom out. You can use the same method
to
install the through studs, just make sure they are even. The Lycoming tool
gets it right the first time when you thread it on the stud to a specified
depth and drive it till its all the way against the case.
You are very correct in your observation about when the studs are torqued.
This must be done evenly from both sides of the engine. Lycoming has a service
instruction on this very issue; see attached.
It's very important that the studs and hole in the case have the proper fit,
or you'll end up with an oil leak.
Hope this helps,
Jon Ross
Jon,
I was afraid someone would say I need a special tool. It's not clear to me
how this tool works. Do you just keep tightening the tool, till the stud
pulls through ? There are two studs on the Aft #2 cylinder that go through to
the fwd of #3 cylinder. Are these two center studs the ones you are referring
to ? If that is the case, then when torqueing the nuts, they would have to
be done evenly, at the same time, or you may pull the stud from side to side.
There are two studs that have nuts on them, on the Forward Left Hand Case,
but are threaded into the other case half. Then there is two studs on the aft
of #4 that go through to the other case half. The remaining studs end in the
case at the cylinder holes.
Chuck G.
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|