Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:45 AM - Re: Re: TeamGrumman-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 08/20/03 (flyv35b)
2. 07:06 AM - Re: Firewall Restoration (flyv35b)
3. 04:33 PM - Gas Tank Leak #2 (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: TeamGrumman-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 08/20/03 |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@juno.com>
I think this was previously answered. All of the engines use the same
vernatherm valve to my knowledge. And yes the nust is crimped or staked on
to prevent it from loosening and backing off. Security of the nut can be
checked by compressing the spring and trying to move the nut to see if it is
tight.
Cliff A&P/IA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Aucountry@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Re: TeamGrumman-List Digest: 3 Msgs -
08/20/03
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 08/21/03 12:04:57 AM, jnpsavage@cox.net writes:
>
>
> > Gary,
> >
> > Is the vernatherm crimped nut business on the Tiger engine also?
> >
> > Jan
> >
>
> Not sure what you're referring to.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Restoration |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "flyv35b" <flyv35b@juno.com>
> Depending on what year your plane is, it may or may not have some
stainless
> steal on the firewall. If not, you can pretty much use anything you want
to
> clean the fire wall. Remove EVERYTHING you can from the firewall. Yes,
it
> takes a long time, but you want it done right, don't you? This will also
give
> you a chance to replace all of the corroded hardware.
>
I don't think Gary is advocating painting the stainless steel part of the
firewall here. Paint doesn't stick to stainless very well, no matter what
kind of paint it is and there is not reason to paint stainless anyhow.
The more stuff you remove from the firewall and the better job you do
cleaning it the better end result you will get. That way all the piece
parts can be painted separately and with new hardware (or even cleaned up
and repainted old hardware) the job looks really nice. All really good
restoration jobs disassemble everything to the smallest piece parts, do
whatever is necessary to "restore" them and then reassemble everything. Not
to many people can afford or want to pay someone professionally to this very
time consuming work so compromises are generally made. And in my opinion a
new paint job and interior, panel is only part of the refurbishment process.
The engine compartment is just as important (or nearly so) and the part that
most people don't do.
And if you think a Grumman is difficult, you should try doing a Bonanza.
Actually a Grumman has a fairly simple firewall which is flat and can be
stripped down pretty easily. I just painted my Bonanza firewall with white
Imron and it took me at least 3 times as long to remove and clean
everything, mask off the stainless steel part, cables, wiring harness, etc.
and paint as it takes to do a Grumman. The engine is out for overhaul and
there was no better time and probably the last chance to do it.
Cliff A&P/IA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Aucountry@aol.com>
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Firewall Restoration
> --> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 08/18/03 07:02:06 PM, steven.jackson14@adelphia.net
> writes:
>
>
> > While I've got my engine off, I'm planning on doing some work on the
> > firewall.=A0 So far, I've been using scotch-brite pads to remove the
surface
> > corrosion, but was wondering if there was some better techniques,
especially
> > as I get the rough stuff off, and begin getting it nice and smooth.=A0
Then,
> > after that's taken care of, I was looking at options for painting (or
not)
> > the firewall to keep the corrosion from happening again.=A0 I've noticed
a
> > couple of aircraft that have painted firewalls, and was wondering if
that
> > was a good idea.=A0 Is there a way to keep the metal finish and still
fight
> > the corrosion?=A0 I've planned on getting the engine mount magnafluxed
and
> > repainted as well.
> >
>
> Depending on what year your plane is, it may or may not have some
stainless
> steal on the firewall. If not, you can pretty much use anything you want
to
> clean the fire wall. Remove EVERYTHING you can from the firewall. Yes,
it
> takes a long time, but you want it done right, don't you? This will also
give
> you a chance to replace all of the corroded hardware.
>
> I use paint stripper applied with a small, 1 inch, paint brush. I do use
a
> 2 inch brush on the larger areas, but, mostly around all the little nooks
and
> crannys, a little brush works the best. Around the engine mounts, do
only=20a
> couple square inches at a time. Clean it, make sure it only goes where
you
> want it, and work carefully and slowly. Once the firewall is completely
> stripped, if there is any rust or corrosion, use sometin like navel jelly
to stop
> the rust and clean corrosion off the best you can. Sandblast if
necessary,
> the small spots. Clean, Clean, Clean and clean again, with PPG DX 330
wax=20and
> grease remover. Wipe on wet, dry with a differnt clean rag. Use
painters
> rags from Home Depot. NEVER reuse or use used rags when using DX 330.
> Washing a rag puts silicon into the fabric and the paint will fish eye.
Prime the
> surface of the firewall with VariPrime self etching primer. Paint the
> firewall with Imron.
>
> Get the engine mount sand blasted, THEN check for cracks and corrosion.
If
> you can, find a powder coater that will dip the engine mount in a metal
prep
> (for rust) prior to powder coating. Podwer coating is superior to
painting in
> so many ways there is just no way to describe it. Use all new hardware
when
> putting everythng back together.
>
> I always paint the area around the engine mount attachments on the
firewall
> with Imron tinted to look like Zinc Chromate. What the hell, it looks
cool.
>
>
> Gary
> www.AuCountry.com
>
> Home of "Team Grumman"
> TeamGrumman-List@matronics.com
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Gas Tank Leak #2 |
--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
Hi TG:
Gary let me address this to you also since you gave me advice on what to look
for.
I went back under the sump area today, of course the tank is dry right now so
no leaking. You mentioned about the Breather Line that goes from the front
of the Sump to the wing tank. And that there is a 1/4" rubber gas hose that
connects the aluminum breather line to the wing.
WELL ... On my system there is NO rubber line. The 1/4" Aluminum breather
line is fitted at both ends (Sump & Wing Tank) with aluminum flair fittings. I
do not see any signs of gas leakage around the fittings, no stains runs or
drips. There is a nice smoothed out seal of glue.
So, does this sound like a repair job that was done in the past (NO LOG
entry)? Or could the factory have changed things on the 1974, AA-5 model S/N:436?
Barry
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